Well, it took longer to pull this together than it took to do the actual trip. Not sure what that says but hopefully you'll feel it was worth waiting for. So, without further ado, here are the links to both the trip report and the pictures (96 of them, including the requisite sunset shot) from our 20th annual Reef Seekers trip to the Sea of Cortez and Baja California, Mexico, diving from the Don Jose.

TRIP REPORT: http://www.reefseekers.com/PIXPAGES/BAJA20...p%20report.html

PICTURES: http://www.reefseekers.com/PIXPAGES/BAJA20...007%20(pix).htm

- Ken

Hi Ken,

Great report and pictures! I was on the Don Jose myself in September, nice boat & great crew indeed. We experienced a force 1 hurricane, but still diving conditions were OK. La Paz is a great town, I even liked it so much that I stayed for about 2 months (instead of the originally planned 10 days).

Diving conditions in October were absolutely stunning with great viz. There was such a lot of small fish life on the wrecks and reefs and larger predators hunting like crazy. Especially the sight at La Reina with Jacks hunting on an enormous school of Scad (biggest school of fish I've ever seen), was just spectacular (blue planet material).

Regarding the Hammerheads: it can be considered a fact that they are fished out (SeaWatch.org even has several pictures of boats taking them in). What happened to the Giant Pacific Mantas is still uncertain (they had one unofficial sighting for the first time in years about 3 weeks ago at La Reina, but might as well been a Mobula), however Norbert Wu also has several pictures on his website of Manta's caught for their meat, so there is a big chance that they are fished out too.

To speak in undiplomatic terms: the marine management of the Sea of Cortez is the biggest mess I have ever seen, anywhere (although there are of course a lot of countries that pay very little attention to their seas). I have very little belief that it will ever get any better (due to corruption, greedy fishermen and an inactive Mexican government). Not only natural heritage is disappearing, also the economic future of millions of people is at stake. Where Sea of Cortez used to be one of the richest seas on the planet, with what is happening now it might turn into a dessert within the next 10 years.

Will I go back to Sea of Cortez? For sure. It is an amazing sea, with an enormous potential for life. Change is also part of life, something we have to deal with every day. Although it was only my first visit to the Sea of Cortez, I also hope to celebrate my 20th annual visit 20 years from now

Please let the Sea of Cortez serve as an example for other nations on how not to manage their seas.

Cheers
Vincent

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Hi Ken.

Thanks for the report.

I'm just thinking of going down there for the first time. Shame about the hammerheads! What a loss to the world!

But what about the reports and warnins about the reefs all being cleaned out by hookah divers using spears and nets!?!?

Did the boat go up from La Paz towards Loreto? And on up? Or what?

Where are Los Islotes, and Las Animas?

The sea lion inside the wreck sounds amazing!

Great report and photos.

Thanks
Don

I've heard of this too but haven't seen this myself nor was that reported to me by the boat crew. Don't forget they've got a stake in this too and there's actually some pretty strong moves afoot to do a better job of conserving the region's resources. Not saying this doesn't happen but I think it's in more remote areas of the Sea of Cortez.


Leaves from and returns to La Paz. los Islotes is about 30 miles to the north, at the north end of Espiritu Santo Island. Las Animas is about another 50 miles north of that, a small speck of an island in the middle of a big sea.



Thanks for the kind words.

- Ken

These two images show mobula rays being fished for their flesh and bait in Baja, Mexico

"For generations, where manta rays and their smaller relatives, the Mobula rays, have existed around the world people have fished them for their oily livers, flesh and their tough abrasive skin. This type of local subsistence fishing has always been sustainable, with the fisherman taking only a very small percentage of the population. However in the 1990s large scale commercial fisheries began to appear, targeting these rays for their fins, branchial filaments and even as just bait, having a devastating effect on the local populations."

http://www.maldivianmantas.com/threats.htm

The link above provides some good insights into what is happening to Manta's globally. Like all other large marine creatures, their numbers are less than a fraction of what they were even 10 years ago. What has happened in the Sea of Cortez has happened throughout most of SE Asia as well.

I must say Mobula Rays are still seen pretty often in the Bay of La Paz (more than any other large pelagic fish). There were periods we encountered big schools (100+) every day we went out. It is true that they are being fished commercially, you can buy Manta taco's in La Paz.. (which even is recommended in the Lonely Planet Mexico )

For the diving industry in La Paz it were the Giant Pacific Manta Rays that really counted, since they showed interaction with divers. If you look at the Similan Islands (Thailand) you'll still find Mantas while the Andaman Sea is also very heavily exploited. In Thailand however there are high penalty's for taking in a Giant Manta (in Mexico now also, but it is already too late). I think it is a matter of recognizing the economic value of a Giant Manta for the dive industry by fishermen, something which can be achieved.

'The Cortes Club, a La Paz dive shop, estimates that the ability to advertise that a diver would see a Giant Pacific Manta while in La Paz alone would be worth $3,300 a day in extra business.' (seawatch.org)

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