I'm leaving on a trip in 10 days and need to buy my housing asap! I'm going to use the D300 with the following lenses: Nikon 105mm macro, Nikon 35mm f2, and will probably buy the tokina 10-16mm or use my Nikon 10.5 mm fisheye plus Nikon 12-24mm.
....it's been 5 years since I've been underwater with a camera so I'm not familiar at all with the new stuff. I've decided on the Ikelite housing as I can't justify spending 2x on a sea &sea or others when I may want to switch to my D3 in the future.
Here are my questions::
1. I'll buy the Ikelite Housing plus various ports...trying to figure out the port charts requires a masters in engineering! The charts seem to refer to ikelite having an 8" dome but when I look up the part number (#5510.45 Dome Assembly) listed under the required part under "8" port body" on the port page it describes 5510.45 as a 4" port...so i'm really confused.... can I buy the 8" dome to use with all wide angle lenses and then just get the proper length port body? Ikelite says the 6" dome is adequate, is it an emotional issue to go with 8"?
2. I have sync cords from my nikonos 5 setups to the strobes I already own (two YS-110 strobes and one YS 90 DX strobe). I'd like to use these sync cords with the new housing...are they standard pin connections and reusable or? what about ttl with these existing strobes and the ikelite housing? Elsewhere, people have indicated it won't work with my YS-110's...what about the Ys90DX? TTl isn't critical for me but it would be nice to have if its easy and cheap to implement.
3. It seems that Ikelite doesn't use focus rings like other brands....is that because Ikelite housings assume everything is auto focus (except the manual focus 105mm focus extension)?
I appreciate any and all help you can toss my way...on land, i'm a wiz with the camera...in water, not so much right now!
thanks, John.
Full Version: Help me to select Ikelite set up...
ikelite dont do d3 housing. get 2 ds 160 with the ball arms with extra 9'' extensions and clamps. also the tokina 11-17mm fisheye is the wide lens to go for the any of the 105 af macro are what you want, with a +2. there are ports made for these lenses on the ikelite site. dual sync cord is what your looking for, your old ones arnt suitable.
The 8" and the 4" dome is the same thing. They just say it's a 4" RADIUS dome. A bit confusing yeah, but we all are that...
To give you a "quick" list of what to buy, I'll give some links to B&H Photo...
Housing - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/5218...Housing_f_.html
Strobe (x2) (incl 2 chargers and manual EV) - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/5701...60_Digital.html
Strobe cord - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/3163..._Sync_Cord.html
8" dome - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/4646..._Port_with.html
10,5mm and 10-17mm port body - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/4206...nting_Body.html
35mm port body - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/4206...ody_for_8_.html
12-24mm port body - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/4646...ody_for_8_.html
Now we are up at more than $4,6k
Port to the 105mm is a bit tricky. There are two solutions to choose from. Either a single piece #5505.* (depending on the lens (old/new)) or the modular system that have more o-rings, but saves space while traveling. If you have the new lens with internal focus and want be able to use manual focus, then use the 12-24 port body with
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/5523..._1_75_with.html and
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/5523...t_Assembly.html
If you have the old lens the use the same 12-24 port body with
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/5523...sion_1_75_.html and
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/5523...t_Assembly.html
(they all build up to the same lenght, but the second combo is 50 bucks cheaper.)
Spare parts... You will get plenty of lube as it is, and the o-rings can be shifted between the port bodies. But get at least one extra for the back of the housing and some for the strobes and cords.
Housing - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/3486..._Large_SLR.html
Strobe - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/3169...25_Battery.html
Cord - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1192...placement_.html
Arms is an individual choice (like everything actually) but I go with the ones in the kit above (although a DS-125 strobe instead) and 9" Fantasesa to get some extra lenght. They are put together with a clamp that allows you to mount the Manual EV or to wrap the cord around when shooting TTL
Arm - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/4773...num_Double.html
Clamp - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/3305...Ball_Clamp.html
If you want to use your S&S strobes then this cord will do instead of the one above - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/3306..._Sync_Cord.html
But then you don't get those neat Manual EVs and can use whatever clamp you want...
I hope you got some help out of this, otherwise just scream for some more...
To give you a "quick" list of what to buy, I'll give some links to B&H Photo...
Housing - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/5218...Housing_f_.html
Strobe (x2) (incl 2 chargers and manual EV) - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/5701...60_Digital.html
Strobe cord - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/3163..._Sync_Cord.html
8" dome - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/4646..._Port_with.html
10,5mm and 10-17mm port body - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/4206...nting_Body.html
35mm port body - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/4206...ody_for_8_.html
12-24mm port body - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/4646...ody_for_8_.html
Now we are up at more than $4,6k
Port to the 105mm is a bit tricky. There are two solutions to choose from. Either a single piece #5505.* (depending on the lens (old/new)) or the modular system that have more o-rings, but saves space while traveling. If you have the new lens with internal focus and want be able to use manual focus, then use the 12-24 port body with
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/5523..._1_75_with.html and
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/5523...t_Assembly.html
If you have the old lens the use the same 12-24 port body with
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/5523...sion_1_75_.html and
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/5523...t_Assembly.html
(they all build up to the same lenght, but the second combo is 50 bucks cheaper.)
Spare parts... You will get plenty of lube as it is, and the o-rings can be shifted between the port bodies. But get at least one extra for the back of the housing and some for the strobes and cords.
Housing - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/3486..._Large_SLR.html
Strobe - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/3169...25_Battery.html
Cord - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1192...placement_.html
Arms is an individual choice (like everything actually) but I go with the ones in the kit above (although a DS-125 strobe instead) and 9" Fantasesa to get some extra lenght. They are put together with a clamp that allows you to mount the Manual EV or to wrap the cord around when shooting TTL
Arm - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/4773...num_Double.html
Clamp - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/3305...Ball_Clamp.html
If you want to use your S&S strobes then this cord will do instead of the one above - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/3306..._Sync_Cord.html
But then you don't get those neat Manual EVs and can use whatever clamp you want...
I hope you got some help out of this, otherwise just scream for some more...
wow...thank you so much for the detailed help! I've got the housing figured out now and am ready to order it... I have a few more questions:
1. is the ikelite strobe housing connector a standard connector or proprietary...I have plenty of nikonos to my sea and sea strobes connectors...will they work?
2. does the ikelite housing assume autofocus use only on lenses (except the 105mm) and that's why there are no focus rings?
3. I have 2 YS-110 and 1 YS-90DX sea and sea strobes...can I get ttl functionality out of any of these? these strobes are still pretty new so i'd like to use them if i can unless that makes no sense...I don't mind buying new strobes but if I buy S&S can I use the ttl with the ikelite housing? I don't like the battery module concept of the ikelite strobes...I prefer to use AA batteries for flexibility.
4. I own a lot of ultralight clamps and stobe arms...will these typically work with the ikelite setup?
5. Is there a large quality trade off in going with the ikelite housing vs sea and sea for example?
6. What are the low profile port locks?
7. Given that I have the 10.5mm and the 12-24mm already...on a scale of 1-10, how important is the Tokina 10-17mm ... warm water diving, no wrecks...Belize...
8. Are there any buttons on the D300 that the ikelite housing won't give me access to?
9. Will I need any diopters? (using 12-24, 10.5, 35mm, 105mm, and perhaps 10-17mm)
I'm at $2,600 for my setup not including new strobes or cords...
1. is the ikelite strobe housing connector a standard connector or proprietary...I have plenty of nikonos to my sea and sea strobes connectors...will they work?
2. does the ikelite housing assume autofocus use only on lenses (except the 105mm) and that's why there are no focus rings?
3. I have 2 YS-110 and 1 YS-90DX sea and sea strobes...can I get ttl functionality out of any of these? these strobes are still pretty new so i'd like to use them if i can unless that makes no sense...I don't mind buying new strobes but if I buy S&S can I use the ttl with the ikelite housing? I don't like the battery module concept of the ikelite strobes...I prefer to use AA batteries for flexibility.
4. I own a lot of ultralight clamps and stobe arms...will these typically work with the ikelite setup?
5. Is there a large quality trade off in going with the ikelite housing vs sea and sea for example?
6. What are the low profile port locks?
7. Given that I have the 10.5mm and the 12-24mm already...on a scale of 1-10, how important is the Tokina 10-17mm ... warm water diving, no wrecks...Belize...
8. Are there any buttons on the D300 that the ikelite housing won't give me access to?
9. Will I need any diopters? (using 12-24, 10.5, 35mm, 105mm, and perhaps 10-17mm)
I'm at $2,600 for my setup not including new strobes or cords...
I'll try to aswer although I'm not 100% sure...
1. Ikelite has their own connector. Maybe there is some adaptor you can use.
2. Almost auto focus on all. In some cases you can use the zoom ring to focus (with the 10,5mm at least)
3. The cord i mentioned above will NOT allow TTL. Maybe S&S makes at cord that allow TTL with Ikelite Housings.
4. You need this (one for eatch handle) to attach the arms to the tray handles.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/2773...xtender_1_.html
Then you sould be able to use any arm with 1" ball and clamp.
5. I went with Ikelite for three reasons. Price... You can see through if the o-rings is in place (almost impossible with aluminum housings)... And you can do field repair even without a degree in rocket science.
6. Low profile locks is included with the housings nowadays. If you want to be sure that you have them, then order two (2) sets of this:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/4418...Port_Locks.html
7. That's up to you. I started with a 10,5 and bought Tokinas 12-24 this summer. Only got one chans to use the 12-24 so far and it was this saturday while I shot babyswim. I bought that instead of Nikons because of the price, and instead of the 10-17 because I didn't want any bent lines (no fisheyeeffect). I belive the optics is better with the 10.5, but 10-17 is a bit more flexible.
8. Yes. I think so atleast. I have the D80, and I can't access two buttons. Think it's the same with D300. Looka at the images at ikelite.com and try to figure it out by yourself. I can't really tell because I've never used a D300. http://ikelite.com/web_two/nik_d300.html
9. Up to you once more. The 10,5 and 10-17 won't allow diopters because of their design. +4 on the 105 is common to get better close focus, but you lose the focus at infinity. 35mm dunno. At the 12-24... I have the Tokina as I said, and Ikelite recommended the *.16 extension ring and a +2 dioptre. I did some calculations and measurings and found that the *.22 would suit better. Maybe I don't have to use diopters then. Search the forum a bit and see what everyone else thinks about Nikons lens and dioptre... If you want to red my calculations, then you find them here: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=26230
Now I'm late for work...
1. Ikelite has their own connector. Maybe there is some adaptor you can use.
2. Almost auto focus on all. In some cases you can use the zoom ring to focus (with the 10,5mm at least)
3. The cord i mentioned above will NOT allow TTL. Maybe S&S makes at cord that allow TTL with Ikelite Housings.
4. You need this (one for eatch handle) to attach the arms to the tray handles.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/2773...xtender_1_.html
Then you sould be able to use any arm with 1" ball and clamp.
5. I went with Ikelite for three reasons. Price... You can see through if the o-rings is in place (almost impossible with aluminum housings)... And you can do field repair even without a degree in rocket science.
6. Low profile locks is included with the housings nowadays. If you want to be sure that you have them, then order two (2) sets of this:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/4418...Port_Locks.html
7. That's up to you. I started with a 10,5 and bought Tokinas 12-24 this summer. Only got one chans to use the 12-24 so far and it was this saturday while I shot babyswim. I bought that instead of Nikons because of the price, and instead of the 10-17 because I didn't want any bent lines (no fisheyeeffect). I belive the optics is better with the 10.5, but 10-17 is a bit more flexible.
8. Yes. I think so atleast. I have the D80, and I can't access two buttons. Think it's the same with D300. Looka at the images at ikelite.com and try to figure it out by yourself. I can't really tell because I've never used a D300. http://ikelite.com/web_two/nik_d300.html
9. Up to you once more. The 10,5 and 10-17 won't allow diopters because of their design. +4 on the 105 is common to get better close focus, but you lose the focus at infinity. 35mm dunno. At the 12-24... I have the Tokina as I said, and Ikelite recommended the *.16 extension ring and a +2 dioptre. I did some calculations and measurings and found that the *.22 would suit better. Maybe I don't have to use diopters then. Search the forum a bit and see what everyone else thinks about Nikons lens and dioptre... If you want to red my calculations, then you find them here: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=26230
Now I'm late for work...
QUOTE (scubaguyjohn @ Oct 20 2008, 06:24 AM) 
wow...thank you so much for the detailed help! I've got the housing figured out now and am ready to order it... I have a few more questions:
1. is the ikelite strobe housing connector a standard connector or proprietary...I have plenty of nikonos to my sea and sea strobes connectors...will they work?
nope, and if you can there will be more failure points never mind the fact that adapters will more than likly cost more.
2. does the ikelite housing assume autofocus use only on lenses (except the 105mm) and that's why there are no focus rings?
yea, 1:1, very narrow dof, mask, housing, current etc. af is really worth it. if you sold your ais and picked up a 2nd hand 105 af and used the non modular ports it would probably be cheaper the ais with the modular ports. just make sure you get a macor port that can take a diopter of your choice (+1cm lenght)
3. I have 2 YS-110 and 1 YS-90DX sea and sea strobes...can I get ttl functionality out of any of these? these strobes are still pretty new so i'd like to use them if i can unless that makes no sense...I don't mind buying new strobes but if I buy S&S can I use the ttl with the ikelite housing? I don't like the battery module concept of the ikelite strobes...I prefer to use AA batteries for flexibility.
nope, the i-ttl from ikelite works.
4. I own a lot of ultralight clamps and stobe arms...will these typically work with the ikelite setup?
yep, 1'' balls.
5. Is there a large quality trade off in going with the ikelite housing vs sea and sea for example?
i dont thinks so. all controls are uasable with ikelite.
6. What are the low profile port locks?
they are standard, it's for the 8'' dome with the smallest extention with the 10.5mm fish.
7. Given that I have the 10.5mm and the 12-24mm already...on a scale of 1-10, how important is the Tokina 10-17mm ... warm water diving, no wrecks...Belize...
the 10-17 fish is one to go for, its better than both underwater. sell one of the other to pay for it.
8. Are there any buttons on the D300 that the ikelite housing won't give me access to?
the metering pattern, ut you can set up one of the function buttons to spot metering.
9. Will I need any diopters? (using 12-24, 10.5, 35mm, 105mm, and perhaps 10-17mm)
yea getting closer with the 105 you'll need one. there is a very good thread pined here
http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8924
I'm at $2,600 for my setup not including new strobes or cords...
1. is the ikelite strobe housing connector a standard connector or proprietary...I have plenty of nikonos to my sea and sea strobes connectors...will they work?
nope, and if you can there will be more failure points never mind the fact that adapters will more than likly cost more.
2. does the ikelite housing assume autofocus use only on lenses (except the 105mm) and that's why there are no focus rings?
yea, 1:1, very narrow dof, mask, housing, current etc. af is really worth it. if you sold your ais and picked up a 2nd hand 105 af and used the non modular ports it would probably be cheaper the ais with the modular ports. just make sure you get a macor port that can take a diopter of your choice (+1cm lenght)
3. I have 2 YS-110 and 1 YS-90DX sea and sea strobes...can I get ttl functionality out of any of these? these strobes are still pretty new so i'd like to use them if i can unless that makes no sense...I don't mind buying new strobes but if I buy S&S can I use the ttl with the ikelite housing? I don't like the battery module concept of the ikelite strobes...I prefer to use AA batteries for flexibility.
nope, the i-ttl from ikelite works.
4. I own a lot of ultralight clamps and stobe arms...will these typically work with the ikelite setup?
yep, 1'' balls.
5. Is there a large quality trade off in going with the ikelite housing vs sea and sea for example?
i dont thinks so. all controls are uasable with ikelite.
6. What are the low profile port locks?
they are standard, it's for the 8'' dome with the smallest extention with the 10.5mm fish.
7. Given that I have the 10.5mm and the 12-24mm already...on a scale of 1-10, how important is the Tokina 10-17mm ... warm water diving, no wrecks...Belize...
the 10-17 fish is one to go for, its better than both underwater. sell one of the other to pay for it.
8. Are there any buttons on the D300 that the ikelite housing won't give me access to?
the metering pattern, ut you can set up one of the function buttons to spot metering.
9. Will I need any diopters? (using 12-24, 10.5, 35mm, 105mm, and perhaps 10-17mm)
yea getting closer with the 105 you'll need one. there is a very good thread pined here
http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8924
I'm at $2,600 for my setup not including new strobes or cords...
thanks again guys... things are getting more clear!
1. With weight restrictions these days, I'm thinking Inon strobes would be a good choice vs ikelite...thoughts on this? is there a strobe sync cord to use Inon direct on the ikelite housing without an adaptor? I hear you about more failure points!
2. If I buy 2 new ikelite strobes, would you get the most powerful model or something in the middle like the DS-125 - I guess more powerful would be better to light stuff against the bright sky backdrop.
3. When using the DS series in TTL mode, do you make ttl exposure compensation adjustments on the strobe or on the camera body with the flash compensation button? It's hard to tell whether that button is accessible looking at the housing pictures.
4. Are my concerns about being locked into proprietary battery systems with ikelite valid? Recharge times seem to be reasonable and would let me do it between dives on a liveaboard.
5. anybody use the nexus cl-100 wet mount diopter? image quality with it?
Still reading up on the diopter info...
1. With weight restrictions these days, I'm thinking Inon strobes would be a good choice vs ikelite...thoughts on this? is there a strobe sync cord to use Inon direct on the ikelite housing without an adaptor? I hear you about more failure points!
2. If I buy 2 new ikelite strobes, would you get the most powerful model or something in the middle like the DS-125 - I guess more powerful would be better to light stuff against the bright sky backdrop.
3. When using the DS series in TTL mode, do you make ttl exposure compensation adjustments on the strobe or on the camera body with the flash compensation button? It's hard to tell whether that button is accessible looking at the housing pictures.
4. Are my concerns about being locked into proprietary battery systems with ikelite valid? Recharge times seem to be reasonable and would let me do it between dives on a liveaboard.
5. anybody use the nexus cl-100 wet mount diopter? image quality with it?
Still reading up on the diopter info...
1. some people remove the handle (easy) fit camera body and carry that as hand lugage along with lenses. strobes get wrapped in dive gear. ports in with clothing.
2. ds160 (new) /125 if cheaper as its an old model. the 200 is big and heavy, dont really need that much power with such good hi iso now days.
3. best part of ikelite, there is a ikelite dial on the back of the housing for this, 2 stops in ttl or manuel 3 stops. the camera control is also accessible.
4. not an issue, ttl makes batteries use very efficient. i have had no problems charging one battery one night the other the next night on 4 dives a day dive trips, so recharge every 2nd day.
dioptres- ive used canon 500d and nikon ones and been very impressed with both there are others. some guys shoot a 105mm with a 1.4 tc and a diopter for loads of magnification while remaining fairly compact might be worth sizing your port for that set up.
2. ds160 (new) /125 if cheaper as its an old model. the 200 is big and heavy, dont really need that much power with such good hi iso now days.
3. best part of ikelite, there is a ikelite dial on the back of the housing for this, 2 stops in ttl or manuel 3 stops. the camera control is also accessible.
4. not an issue, ttl makes batteries use very efficient. i have had no problems charging one battery one night the other the next night on 4 dives a day dive trips, so recharge every 2nd day.
dioptres- ive used canon 500d and nikon ones and been very impressed with both there are others. some guys shoot a 105mm with a 1.4 tc and a diopter for loads of magnification while remaining fairly compact might be worth sizing your port for that set up.
QUOTE (lou f @ Oct 20 2008, 11:09 AM)
1. some people remove the handle (easy) fit camera body and carry that as hand lugage along with lenses. strobes get wrapped in dive gear. ports in with clothing.
2. ds160 (new) /125 if cheaper as its an old model. the 200 is big and heavy, dont really need that much power with such good hi iso now days.
3. best part of ikelite, there is a ikelite dial on the back of the housing for this, 2 stops in ttl or manuel 3 stops. the camera control is also accessible.
4. not an issue, ttl makes batteries use very efficient. i have had no problems charging one battery one night the other the next night on 4 dives a day dive trips, so recharge every 2nd day.
dioptres- ive used canon 500d and nikon ones and been very impressed with both there are others. some guys shoot a 105mm with a 1.4 tc and a diopter for loads of magnification while remaining fairly compact might be worth sizing your port for that set up.
2. ds160 (new) /125 if cheaper as its an old model. the 200 is big and heavy, dont really need that much power with such good hi iso now days.
3. best part of ikelite, there is a ikelite dial on the back of the housing for this, 2 stops in ttl or manuel 3 stops. the camera control is also accessible.
4. not an issue, ttl makes batteries use very efficient. i have had no problems charging one battery one night the other the next night on 4 dives a day dive trips, so recharge every 2nd day.
dioptres- ive used canon 500d and nikon ones and been very impressed with both there are others. some guys shoot a 105mm with a 1.4 tc and a diopter for loads of magnification while remaining fairly compact might be worth sizing your port for that set up.
cool...thanks Lou...
1. I do own the Nikon 1.7x TC...should I just size a port extension for that or will the 1.7x be too powerful?
2. If I buy the ikelite strobes, will I have reasonable portability to other housings later if I want to move away from ikelite? I'm looking at another $2,200 to buy 2 DS-160's with extra cords and stuff and am wondering if I shouldn't just use the existing strobes in manual...also will the new DS strobes require a unique bolt attachement to attach to the ultralight arms? I found the attachment for them to the ikelite housing but not to the strobes...
just money I guess...
thanks, John.
1. Unless you want to shoot elephants from 1 feet away, nothing can be too powerful... (If you don't intend to shoot inside the elephants nostrils I mean...) Going with 105mm, manual focus, modular system and the .22 port body, you should just buy an extra 5510.50 extension (0,57"). I even think you have room for a diopter inside.
2. Whoever have the most things when he die, wins...
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/5290...ad_Adapter.html and
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/2773...ount_1_for.html
is two ways to attach the strobe to arms...
Many photografers use Ikelite strobes with other housings. I'm going to keep mine if i change housing because they are so easy to use/assemble/charge etc.
If you want to go REALLY bananas, then try a Sigma 150mm with two 2x teleconverters and a +10 dioptre with an INON ringflash. (wonder if that works...)
2. Whoever have the most things when he die, wins...
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/5290...ad_Adapter.html and
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/2773...ount_1_for.html
is two ways to attach the strobe to arms...
Many photografers use Ikelite strobes with other housings. I'm going to keep mine if i change housing because they are so easy to use/assemble/charge etc.
If you want to go REALLY bananas, then try a Sigma 150mm with two 2x teleconverters and a +10 dioptre with an INON ringflash. (wonder if that works...)
1. the 1.7 will be more likely cause the lens to vignette with the port when shooting without the tc. also 1.7 gives a darker image. probably simpler to stick just with or without the dioptre.
2. yep, quite a few housings you can speck ikelite connectors but you wont get the ittl without this.
http://ikelite.com/web_two/ittl_adapter.html
2. yep, quite a few housings you can speck ikelite connectors but you wont get the ittl without this.
http://ikelite.com/web_two/ittl_adapter.html
thanks for all your help...I ordered the ikelite d300 housing, the 8" dome, ports, etc for the 105mm, 35mm, 12-24mm and the tokina 10-17mm...got my bases covered....also bought two ds-160 strobes...total outlay about $6K... anybody interested in renting this stuff, drop me a note!
I'll post my feedback after my trip or more questions when i pool test it early next week..let's hope it all works!
John.
I'll post my feedback after my trip or more questions when i pool test it early next week..let's hope it all works!
John.
Which port did you choose to the 105? modular/standard? if modular which bort body and extender?
did you remember extra o-rings?
good luck and happy shooting...
did you remember extra o-rings?
good luck and happy shooting...
John,
Your last posts suggests you bought an 8" dome port for the 105mm lens. Is that what you meant or you really meant the 10.5mm lens? You really should be using a flat port for something like a 105mm lens (especially for macro work).
Your last posts suggests you bought an 8" dome port for the 105mm lens. Is that what you meant or you really meant the 10.5mm lens? You really should be using a flat port for something like a 105mm lens (especially for macro work).
QUOTE (Grayscale @ Oct 24 2008, 07:44 AM)
did you remember extra o-rings?
Yeah. You should definitely get spare O rings - especially for the housing. You will end up with plenty of spares for the ports. It is worthwhile having spares for the strobe batteries and sync cords.
If you mess up an O ring half-way through your trip that will be the end of your photography if you don't have spares.
QUOTE (Grayscale @ Oct 23 2008, 04:44 PM)
Which port did you choose to the 105? modular/standard? if modular which bort body and extender?
did you remember extra o-rings?
good luck and happy shooting...
did you remember extra o-rings?
good luck and happy shooting...
I ordered the 5510.75, 5510.35, and 5510.22 for the 105mm which gives me manual focus control.
Yup, bought a bunch of o-rings different sizes...for the lenses, cords, lights, etc....
QUOTE (ATJ @ Oct 23 2008, 05:25 PM)
John,
Your last posts suggests you bought an 8" dome port for the 105mm lens. Is that what you meant or you really meant the 10.5mm lens? You really should be using a flat port for something like a 105mm lens (especially for macro work).
Your last posts suggests you bought an 8" dome port for the 105mm lens. Is that what you meant or you really meant the 10.5mm lens? You really should be using a flat port for something like a 105mm lens (especially for macro work).
you're right it does read that way...I also bought the 5510.35 for the 105mm...the 8" dome is for the 10.5, 12-24, and 10-17mm....I also bought dipters for the 12-24mm and the 105mm...I'll report back on results...
it's a very quiet liveaboard the first week...just me and one other person plus crew on a 120 foot boat....yikes, hope i'm not bored!
got the gear today...here are a few observations:
1. ikelite stuff is well made and the controls for the D300 work well at least on land...ttl is nice.
2. the 2 low profile port locks are a bit scary - they seem to be the weak link in the port design...I don't like the idea of 2 small screws screwed into plastic holding these two locks. I wonder if they will loosen over time...
3. getting the 105mm through the housing is a very tight fit...you have to be very careful not to move the focus switch on the lens into manual focus as you insert the camera...I guess I could insert the lens through the port after the fact but didn't check if that would work better.
4. I bought +1, +2, +4 diopters for the 105mm ... they certainly let you focus close and get objects greater than 1:1. Downside is that once you put a diopter on, you can no longer focus from any other distance which greatly limits the use of the lens. Perhaps in use I'll see this differently underwater.
5. Even though i'm set up for the 12-24mm and the 10.5mm, i have the feeling that the tokina 10-17mm will see that bulk of the action as I'll be too lazy to switch.
Questions:
1. How tight do I have to screw the ports into one another? until they stop moving? or like an oil filter, until I meet resistance?
2. Anything I should look for during the predive tomorrow - other than leaks?
thanks.
1. ikelite stuff is well made and the controls for the D300 work well at least on land...ttl is nice.
2. the 2 low profile port locks are a bit scary - they seem to be the weak link in the port design...I don't like the idea of 2 small screws screwed into plastic holding these two locks. I wonder if they will loosen over time...
3. getting the 105mm through the housing is a very tight fit...you have to be very careful not to move the focus switch on the lens into manual focus as you insert the camera...I guess I could insert the lens through the port after the fact but didn't check if that would work better.
4. I bought +1, +2, +4 diopters for the 105mm ... they certainly let you focus close and get objects greater than 1:1. Downside is that once you put a diopter on, you can no longer focus from any other distance which greatly limits the use of the lens. Perhaps in use I'll see this differently underwater.
5. Even though i'm set up for the 12-24mm and the 10.5mm, i have the feeling that the tokina 10-17mm will see that bulk of the action as I'll be too lazy to switch.
Questions:
1. How tight do I have to screw the ports into one another? until they stop moving? or like an oil filter, until I meet resistance?
2. Anything I should look for during the predive tomorrow - other than leaks?
thanks.
QUOTE (scubaguyjohn @ Oct 28 2008, 10:47 AM)
1. ikelite stuff is well made and the controls for the D300 work well at least on land...ttl is nice.
Works well underwater, too. At least mine does.
Just make sure you check all the functions (you expect to use) before heading into the water. Occasionally, things don't line up exactly and you may have some controls not work. It has only happened to me once. (I couldn't change ISO using the button, but I was able to change it using the menu so no great loss.)QUOTE (scubaguyjohn @ Oct 28 2008, 10:47 AM)
2. the 2 low profile port locks are a bit scary - they seem to be the weak link in the port design...I don't like the idea of 2 small screws screwed into plastic holding these two locks. I wonder if they will loosen over time...
They are a little scary, but I had no problems with my D70 with nearly 100 dives and none so far with my D300 with over 30 dives. Additionally, when underwater, the pressure will keep the port on, even if the locks weren't there - it would just be a problem at the surface.
QUOTE (scubaguyjohn @ Oct 28 2008, 10:47 AM)
3. getting the 105mm through the housing is a very tight fit...you have to be very careful not to move the focus switch on the lens into manual focus as you insert the camera...I guess I could insert the lens through the port after the fact but didn't check if that would work better.
I find it easier to put the lenses on after the camera is in the housing. With one of my lenses it is the only way to do it as I can't get the zoom clamp over the front element.
QUOTE (scubaguyjohn @ Oct 28 2008, 10:47 AM)
4. I bought +1, +2, +4 diopters for the 105mm ... they certainly let you focus close and get objects greater than 1:1. Downside is that once you put a diopter on, you can no longer focus from any other distance which greatly limits the use of the lens. Perhaps in use I'll see this differently underwater.
Or get a wet diopter - one that you can place over the port once underwater and remove when you no longer want it.
QUOTE (scubaguyjohn @ Oct 28 2008, 10:47 AM)
2. Anything I should look for during the predive tomorrow - other than leaks?
As above, make sure all the desired functions work, particularly, focus, and the ability to change shutter speed and f/stop. I once jumped in the water with my 60mm micro only to find I had bumped the focus range selector from "Full" to "Limit", basically rendering a macro lens to an ordinary lens.
thanks for your feedback...can you tell me how tight do I have to screw the ports into one another? until they stop moving? or like an oil filter, until I meet resistance?
also, anybody have a good idea on how to tether the strobe diffusers to the strobe body so they won't float away if accidentally dislodged?
thanks, John
also, anybody have a good idea on how to tether the strobe diffusers to the strobe body so they won't float away if accidentally dislodged?
thanks, John
Unfortunately, I can't, John. I only have standard 6" ports - the non-modular ones. Hopefully, someone with the modular ports will answer, or maybe you could start a separate thread just to ask that question.
Use a small piece of line from your SMBs spool to tie the diffusors to the strobes. Ikelite have made some small holes in the diffusors and strobes for that purpose.
The ports should be screwed in the dome so the inside of the dome is slightly below the port. I think you should have the same amount of force with the extenders. And don't forget a small amount of lube on the o-rings that suffer from friction (strobe cables, port body to extension and dome, housing to 10,5mm port body with bayonet) and in my opinon no lube on the o-rings that have the force right on the o-rings (strobe to battery, housing back to housing, housing to port body without bayonet)
AND DON'T DIVE WITH THE CAMERA IN THE HOUSING AT THE FIRST DIVE!!! Too many have had their housings flooded on hte first dive because thay dind't assemble the housing correct the first times... Put a large stone or some lead wrapped in a towel in the housing instead.
Happy diving.
The ports should be screwed in the dome so the inside of the dome is slightly below the port. I think you should have the same amount of force with the extenders. And don't forget a small amount of lube on the o-rings that suffer from friction (strobe cables, port body to extension and dome, housing to 10,5mm port body with bayonet) and in my opinon no lube on the o-rings that have the force right on the o-rings (strobe to battery, housing back to housing, housing to port body without bayonet)
AND DON'T DIVE WITH THE CAMERA IN THE HOUSING AT THE FIRST DIVE!!! Too many have had their housings flooded on hte first dive because thay dind't assemble the housing correct the first times... Put a large stone or some lead wrapped in a towel in the housing instead.
Happy diving.
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