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  1. Yesterday
  2. The thing to remember is that usually you have to buy insurance in your home country. Europe may be different with the EU, I don't know, but there's usually a clause that restricts selling to different countries. As a consequence the deals you can get are often quite different.
  3. Can't speak about the quality, but a stronger diopter will focus closer than your existing diopters, so the question I would ask is how much working room do you have with the +20 at min focus? if that is already tight, it will be worse with the +25, with resulting difficulties in lighting subjects very close to the lens.
  4. Just in case you find yourself looking back... A regular pair of neoprene boots (sized-up of course) is a great alternative to rock boots, which have been my preference for the past 10+ years. I currently use these, but any type of "tall" neo boots with a zip would do. They are great at minimizing the amount of air that can travel to your feet (and bubble you up...), so you can easily let some air get to your legs, and with a bit of practice, just enough to get a perfectly horizontal position. With such boots, I don't see the need for those heavy-rubber fins. I mean you can use them if that's your preference, but I am sticking with the Avanti Quattro Plus which I also use for tropical 3mm wetsuit diving. They are lighter, and working well for both flutter kick, and the frog kick which is so useful for muck/silty diving.
  5. I am selling my lightly used GH5 Bodies and lenses as I have moved to different system. GH5 Body, perfect condition almost brand new (was backup Camera Body) - $725 GH5 Body, perfect condition Used to film about 200 videos. Still looks new and operates perfectly. - $650 Panasonic DMW-FL70 flash Like new, never used (backup flash trigger) - $45 Panasonic DMW-FL70 flash Great condition, used for a couple hundred exposures (Great TTL trigger for inside housing) - $50 Panasonic Lumix G Vario 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 II ASPH. MEGA O.I.S. Lens Great condition - $100 Panasonic Leica DG Vario-Elmarit 50-200mm F/2.8-4 ASPH Zoom Lens Like new condition - $1000 Panasonic Leica DG Vario-Elmarit 12-60mm f/2.8-4 ASPH. POWER O.I.S. Lens Like new condition - $475 Thanks for looking.
  6. Hello All,Due to upgraded equipment I am selling my Olympus Pen rig with "custom" (read: none-standard) Nauticam grip for increased comfort. House was purchased new a year ago (9-15-2021) and has 2 year warranty in The Netherlands. I am happy to provide the original receipt.Never been flooded, comes with vacuum pump, done max 30 dives. Housing and camera looks brand new. No scratches in any of the glass.The set comes with 3x original batteries and charger (European plug, but I will provide a US converter).Price: $850
  7. Adding two posts here to gain access to the classified section (currently unclear if 3 replies are enough or if they have to be individual posts) 1 of 2
  8. Yep. And for the technical community, water temperature was 27-28 degrees Centigrade - 82 degrees Fahrenheit
  9. I'm very happy with the results I'm getting from my SAGA +10 and +20 diopters used with my Olympus MFT 60mm macro lens. I'm wondering if it would be worthwhile getting the SAGA +25 diopter to use with the same lens.
  10. That's crazy @TimG, it's the kind of life I was expecting from a DSLR. I presume they're all full size raw images, monitor brightness on 0 (normal) and airplane mode on?
  11. WOW! I've just finished the 8th dive on the same battery. No use of LiveView at all but the camera was switched on for the duration of each dive - all of which were in the 45 -55 minute range. I took 682 RAW images and the camera is still reporting the battery as having 25% charge left. The battery is an EN-EL15b. The QR code gives its date as 2018 but it isn't that old. It's either 2020 or 2021, I Can't be sure which. But a pretty good rate of return in terms of images!
  12. Thanks for this discussion-- If folks are interested in sharing their particular custom set up profiles there is also this thread which discusses that topic: Since it is easy to save and share set-up profiles I would be keen to try other people's custom settings!
  13. For years using hard wired TTL Ikelite housings their instructions stated use CENTER Weighted metering to improve accuracy of TTL strobe(s). I usually did unless I forgot to switch my camera metering from the MATRIX setting. Either way I didn't see a huge difference in TTL accuracy. As to dialing down the compact Sony RX100 VII TTL output I only tried it a couple times with the magnet in my Inon S2000 strobe(s). This would trip the strobes set to MANUAL mode and seemed to speed up the Sony RX100 VII flash recycle time but not as fast my Canon G7X II in MANUAL flash set to only 1/3 output. After trying S-TTL (Inon strobe protocol) and MANUAL flash I settled on S-TTL delivering 125-150 shots per little Canon NB-13L battery. I have several and can open my Fantasea housing after drying, pop a new battery in and re-seal it in under 60 seconds. Not saying it's the best set up option but has worked for me over 6 years since converting to compact underwater shooting. DH
  14. Thanks Sokrates... I have a soft-side roller camera case as well as the Pelican. My concern would be if the customs dudes are on the lookout for serious camera gear, such a case would be a give-away, just as the Pelican case would be. If I leave the macro stuff behind, I really only have strobes, two lenses and two domes.
  15. I use Apeks RK3 fins with my Rock Boots. Given the size and characteristics, they are reasonably light and I travel with them. - brett
  16. Hi all, I'm Will, a coral ecologist and photographer working for the Perry Institute for Marine Science in The Bahamas. I've been an underwater photographer for about 14 years (since I was 12!) and my job is mostly doing underwater photogrammetry for coral reef monitoring. I use wetpixel often but am just now wanting to post in the forums! I use Nikonos lenses (12mm Fisheye and 15mm) adapted to a Sony A7C / Nauticam setup and an Olympus E-PL10 / AOI as backup.
  17. Thank you for valuable information. I bought Hollis F1 Lt in XXL size. Most probably largest foot pocket among all fins in the market. Lighter than original F1 which is preferable for travel. Also sizewise a bit smaller than original F1. I hope i ll like them when i ll have chance to try in water
  18. i would say its safe to leave macro behind. Atleast to my experience (only few liveaboard trips). Also packing in "normal" backpack instead of Pelican, you have far less chance being stopped by customs scam. I would also look into buying dedicated ThinkTank or similar backpack, instead of inserts to old backpack.
  19. A brand new one is out of my budget for now, so I’m hoping to get a used one if possible
  20. After a near miss where my entire D850 nauticam rig was lost (but later found) in Fiji a few months ago, i reviewed and updated my insurance. I added a $25,000 Camera rider to my homeowners policy with Safeco. It cost $134 year and has a $500 deductible per claim. Items do not have to be individually listed. This is a far better deal than H2O or DAN as far as i can tell. Does anyone have experience with this policy?
  21. This depends on the metering mode that you've set. For example, my A6300's manual says this: So, when 'Multi' is selected, whether manually or automatically, such as in when shooting in auto mode, water in the frame has a high potential of confusing the camera, but 'Spot' is generally accurate so long as you place your subject in the middle of the frame. For static scenes, you can also use AEL function to meter with pre-flash, then recompose and shoot, but I've found this to be too much hassle to use operationally. It doesn't matter if a camera is ILC or fixed-lens - the salient point is that without an LED flash trigger, using TTL mode will limit the output of underwater strobes. Yes, small-sensor cameras are more tolerant of lower flash power, but the issue is still there. You can kinda-sorta get the best of both worlds if you use a compact camera with a hot shoe and a flash trigger instead of pop-up flash, but these are quite rare - Canon G1X series is not really a compact, Panasonic LX100 uses an M43 sensor, leaving Sony ZV-1 as the sole entry. Interestingly, there are two housings out there for ZV-1 - Ikelite and SeaFrogs - which makes it an interesting alternative to RX100V. I'm not sure what this is meant to accomplish - are you trying to make the pre-flash weak enough so that the strobe wouldn't detect it? I don't know whether or not modifying flash compensation setting would affect the pre-flash duration; it stands to reason that it wouldn't - the sensible thing, from the camera's perspective, would be to meter with a fixed-duration pulse, and then apply flash compensation setting to the final calculation. Regardless, if you want to shoot in manual mode when triggering off a Sony camera, just enable pre-flash cancellation on your strobes... although, I suppose, with the really annoying magnet in/out thing on Inon strobes, this is not something you'd want to do mid-dive either. Another issue that I ran into when shooting TTL is the pre-flash delay - it takes about maybe half a second between trigger press and the main pulse, which is usually not an issue, but can be annoying when you're trying to catch a subject exhibiting some dynamic behavior, such as a fish yawning - if you don't anticipate the action and press the trigger ahead of time, then by the time the flash fires, that precise moment you're after may be gone.
  22. I thought about buying the Z 50mm Macro but opted for the F 60mm Macro w/FTZ for blackwater. The F 60mm Macro IF is much faster! You can pick one up super cheap right now used, and it fits behind the Nauticam macro port w/ no extension ring. You may want to invest in a manual focus gear which will set you back a few hundred, but could get by using only AF.
  23. I looked for one for several months before I bought one new at Reef Photo for $600. https://reefphoto.com/products/sea-sea-m82-internal-correction-lens
  24. Last week
  25. Getting close is always the best recipe for UW shots, whether you are using TTL or manual. From what I have seen on here TTL seems to work better on some models than others. After all the strobe is just built to imitate the flash duration that the camera has calculated for the shot. it stands to reason that some cameras could do better at UW TTL than others, but the dominating factor seems to be filling the frame with subject- the cameras seem to struggle to know what to do if there is a lot of water in frame. So it makes sense that getting close will help you out. While there may be limitations caused by the flash duration on compacts, the 1" sensor cameras are less likely to run into it, they have a 2.7x crop factor and this also applies to depth of field f5.6 x 2.7 = f15 - f 5.6 gives you the same depth of field as f15 on a full frame camera which would f10 on a APS-C - all with the same framing of the subject. The consequence of this is that you can shoot the compact at f4.5-5.6 range which means your flash power is turned down quite a bit. Manual will of course help with battery life which is limitation with compacts - but not all compacts allow manual flash output. Sony and Panasonic do not. There's no doubt you can take some great shots with these little compacts- after a flash the biggest thing you can do is add a wet wide lens of some sort - it allows you to get closer and because things look small in frame encourages you to get closer.
  26. I have started writing up some material on the A1 https://interceptor121.com/2022/12/03/sony-a1-video-resolution/ There is an element of mystery around this camera and it is not quite clear in terms of inner working If you plan to take this underwater to shoot video may be worth a read
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