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  2. Sorry for slow response... I would try - within the limits of your file type - to do the following: I use Lightroom, so use the labels for those controls. 0. If RAW, make any changes to white balance first. Same if dialing in something like 'Camera Standard' instead of any default that may be there. 1. Raise exposure at least 0.5 stop 2. Raise the shadows a bit more. (Keep an eye on the histogram. Leaving a lot of unused area on either end is a sin.) 3. If you are working with a RAW file, you may well want/need to pull down the highlights if they get out of control with any of these adjustments. 4. Increase contrast a bit, not too much. This will stretch the histogram, so if highlights were on the edge, this just pushed them over it. You may need to pull the highlights down more. 5. A trick to increase apparent clarity is to pull the black slider down to the left to darken the exposure shadows. Be very careful here - a little goes a long way and can result in the need to boost shadows a bit to avoid blocking up the dark areas. But it can make a light haze from low contrast almost vanish. 6. Increase saturation to taste.
  3. Perhaps this shot of a Star Horseshoe Worm pulling back into it's hole? Or maybe this Peppermint Shrimp - the only one I've ever seen? I had photographed an Azure Vase sponge as I went past it. A bit later I swam over it on the way back and just took a shot straight down into it. Thanks to having 36mp of detail available, I was able to crop in to get an image out of the shot. It was only in post-processing that I noticed the shrimp.
  4. There are more differences, I have just moved to a FF camera and I what I have find out is that I need tighter diaphragms to have definition on the corners and depth of field. And due to that you need more powerfull strobes. So it's a compromise. In my opinion if I coul crop the sensor in my camera I wouldn't do that. I prefer to use the TC for wide angle. It's really more challenging in terms of illumination and composition.
  5. Yesterday
  6. I use Mothers California Gold Water Spot Remover For Glass, it works really well. Has a combination of mild abrasives and mineral dissolving chemicals.
  7. Hey! Actually came across this site as I've acquired a Sea & Sea 16mm conversion lens I thought might be of interest here! Hope thats not to intrusive or against the rules! All the best
  8. Hi all, I'm Tzucheng from Taiwan. I have become a diver for only 2 years and would like to learn something new as underwater photography. Look forward to get some knowledge and new information here.
  9. I've had success polishing spotty glass flat ports with Novus polish #2 (fine scratch) and a soft cloth. It has enough grit the clean the glass and does not seem to scratch it. I tried a bunch of other things without luck so figured it was worth a try. Seemed to work pretty well.
  10. Hello, I’m Itai. Thanks everyone for the advice and knowledge shared here. I dive mostly in Seattle, WA and just started to pick up topside and underwater photography, slowly putting together my underwater setup.
  11. 2 dives later..... Here's view inside the housing with the latest version of the V5 XB electronics
  12. A couple of other things that people have suggested before on WP: Brasso metal polish and... wait for it..... Coke. I did wonder when I heard Coke if they weren't referring to drinking some whilst polishing away. But it destroys teeth and polishes pennies, so why not? Brasso is a British thing but there's probably a similar product available elsewhere. It's brilliant for polishing brass and copper. If you flip back through this post, you'll see I commented back in 2014 that for a flat port I had with weird marks, in the end I had to get it reglassed. Sometimes there just seems to be "stuff" in the water that impacts on the glass. The other thing I wondered in retrospect is mould. If you've had the port somewhere with high humidity and mould growth sets in. I've lost a couple of lenses through mould growth having had them for about 12 months in Indonesia with high humidity. At least a port you can get reglassed relatively inexpensively!
  13. I just hit this same issue with my Backscatter MF-1. I've probably used it about 50-60 dives with no issues until now. Now it show a "flash recycle charging circuit error" based on the status light signal. I'll call them on Monday and send it in for service or replacement. I love this strobe and snoot, so I hope they cover the service for free. I can't find any warranty information on their website or the manual, but it's under one year old. Purchased 3/31/2020. I'll update with my experience.
  14. I don't know the answer to that question
  15. It is not a problem if Lightroom renders the photo darker. What is happening is that the JPG Preview (which is embedded in the RAW file) created by the camera with adjustments like Active-D-Lighting, etc (as mentioned previously) is tossed out in favor of the unprocessed RAW image. You need to make some of those same changes now to the RAW image. If you are not familiar with editing in LR, just hit the Auto button to start. (Develop Mode / Basic Panel) This will balance the image based on the histogram, which is a good start most of the time. It's a lot like what the in-camera JPG D-Lighting does. It almost always makes an underwater image too bright, but you can then pull down the brightness to where it needs to be.
  16. Hi Angelina, here are a few things you can try: 1. In Lightroom, set the “Profile” (which by default is set to “Adobe Color”) to the same profile you are using in-camera. For example, if you are using the “Standard” picture control in-camera, then go into the profile browser in Lightroom and select the “Camera Standard” profile within the “Camera Matching” section. While you’re at it, make sure any settings in Lightroom that can affect brightness (exposure, contrast, highlights, shadows, curves, etc) are set to zero. Afterwards, save the settings as the default Lightroom settings for your D810 files. 2. In the camera menu, make sure “Active D-Lighting” is turned off. 3. In the camera menu, make sure “Monitor Brightness” is set to the default (0).
  17. Thank you all for the responses! Ikelite is still doing the exchange program, but only for models 2016 and after. Unfortunately these strobes are older than 2016. Waiting to see if the price will drop, to help lessen the sting of buying new batteries!
  18. ISO is one of the most misunderstood concepts of digital photography and that is because a camera has only one sensor and therefore only one film. You can't go and change the film you can only proxy that with gain which is what ISO maps to You can't generalise concepts due to the different way sensors are constructed so one camera may be totally fine at 2500 and one be rubbish. Also some cameras are ISO invariant and some are not at all and this influences how you should shoot. Only one thing is for sure an image with too low ISO that is too dark on broad area is worse than one with a small clipped highlight in my opinion If you want to maximised performance in your camera I suggest you study not only DR charts but also input referred noise charts
  19. I am selling an underwaterhousing for a Canon 5D Mark II (Manufacturer UK Germany /( Uwe Kiehl Germany). All camera functions can be used underwater. The included 45° viewfinder enlarges the viewfinder and is 270° turnable. (The viewfinder is equal to the Subal viewfinder). Ther viewfinder makes it easy to take pictures close to the ground or shooting upwards. For transportation the viewfinder can be removed and easily mounted again. There are 2 Nikonos Bulkheads screwed in the housing. Regarding Ports there are two included: 1.) 180mm Glass-Domeport with a few scratches, which you do not see in the pictures. Also there is a crack in the holding area of the upper shade, which doesn't affect the usability of the port. Also there is a 60mm Port-Spacer. A 15mm Fisheye (Canon / Sigma) can be used without the spacer. A canon 17-40 / 16-35 1:2.8 (I) / Sigma 15-30mm can be used with the 60mm spacer. For a 17-40 a zoom ring is also included. 2.) A Planport (PP105) with a length of 105mm. This one can be used with both Canon 100mm Macro lenses. There is also a M67 Lens adapter included. Price 1500€ ONO + shipping. For questions send me a PM or an email to: julian.muehlenhaus@googlemail.com Location of the housing is Germany, near Hamburg. A camera for that housing is also available for 350€ incl. Batteries, 1x 16GB CF Card (more are optional), Charger etc.)
  20. Traditionally, photography textbooks concentrated on aperture and shutter speed as being the most important ways to control exposure. Modern digital cameras offer another option, namely ISO. For underwater photographers, often shooting in quite low light levels and trying to balance flash and natural light, ISO offers an excellent tool to help control the way we capture light underwater. @adamhanlon and @Alex_Mustard discuss the newer camera technology that allows this and how they use it when shooting.
  21. If it is polycarbonate it cannot be polished if it is hard coated unless you remove the coat altogether It is always a trade off hard coated scratch less but when they do they cannot be repaired. Uncoated scratch less and you are there repairing them a lot on the field but once you are used to is it is all good
  22. The preview on the LCD Underwater is not to be trusted as the bright screen is even brighter underwater where the light is reduced. Looking at the Histogram view is a better option than the preview for exposure judging. The preview is good for Sharpness and composition but not exposure. In Lightroom, once the image renders it will show more of a true capture. The Previews are generated by Adobe standard calibration controls not the cameras controls so they look a little different than the actual RAW file from the camera. Said differently: Lightroom processes photos from lots of different sources (your camera or mine) and that generation is using Adobes software, not your camera's preview software. Different color controls and settings/methods cause the differences in look (brightness).
  23. Hi there! I was wondering if there are any underwater photographers here that could help me out. I have a Nikon D810 that I am shooting underwater with 2 Ikelite DS-160 strobes and every time I take a photo it looks like it is perfectly exposed on the LCD screen of the camera. But when I check the histogram it looks underexposed. And then when I import the photos into Lightroom at first they look properly exposed, but the after the photo renders it is dark and underexposed. Does anyone know why this is happening? How can I make it so my preview photo will look the same as the RAW image once it has rendered? Thanks!
  24. Hi I am Angelina, I am an underwater photographer originally from New York but now based in Port Douglas, Australia. I work on a day boat photographing tourists as they come out to the reef. In my spare time I go out diving on my own to photograph the reef. You can see my work here: https://www.angelinapilarinos.com/ I joined WetPixel to grow my knowledge of underwater photography. I am looking to expand my skills and get more into underwater videography!
  25. It doesn't seem to have any difference on photos topside. Would you know if the coating has any anti reflection properties, or just for durability?
  26. I don’t. I was planning the big eye lens m67 mkii from fantasea: affordable and light. I’m sure the inon uwl is better but It’s 1kg so more than the camera and the housing.
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