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  1. 4 points
    Nice images, Adam. However, obviously it all depends upon one's situation and subject matter. Not everyone shoots large subjects in open water with artificial lighting. I'm normally shooting small subjects in shallow freshwater streams with natural lighting. And yes, many of my wide angle shots could not be gotten with a large dome. Here are a few examples with subjects less than an inch from a 4" dome (closer than a large dome could get) and/or with the housing pressed against the stream bottom (lower than a large dome could get):
  2. 3 points
    I am really happy with the Backscatter Mini + Snoot. It's the best addition to my camera gear in years. Previous snoot setups I tried were frustrating and difficult to aim and this is a relative breeze. Highly recommended. Here is an example shot of a Pacific Spiny Lumpsucker. Maybe 2-3cm long, shot with D850 & 105mm, Backscater Mini Snoot, SubSea +5 closeup lens. I don't love the "spotlight" effect of a bright circle on black so I add a little fill from an Inon 330 at about 1/8 power off to left the side. [ f/18, 1/250th, ISO 100]
  3. 3 points
    One of the main reasons for me to use small dome ports is because the water is too shallow to use a large one. I have used the Seacam fisheye macro port FMP and wide port WP for this with the Nikkor 10.5, 16, and 8-15mm and Canon 8-15mm fisheye lenses. The WP is not made for fisheyes but when the fisheye lens used with it is focused very close, it will not vignette. The WP is also the least expensive Seacam dome and given that the ports are often scratched by rocks being tossed at them by my photo subjects need to be considered expendable. First attached shot shows a Sockeye Salmon pair preparing to spawn. The other pix show Sockeye Salmon gathered at the mouth of a creek located about 2 km away from where I am sitting. They are gathering here prior to final maturation to beach spawn in the lake around the mouth of the creek. I planned on staying here several hours to do the shoot..... The creek as you can see is very shallow - Pink Salmon spawn here. Even the FMP is too big to fully submerge at some some spawning locations in the creek. I have used this creek to do a number of tests over the years (because it is so close and fairly clear). Another type of small dome port about the same diameter as the port mount so looks like cylinder with a dome on the end made by Seacam was simply called dome port DP. They came in various lengths for different lenses. Alex Mustard mentioned a similar Subal port here a number of years ago. I have used my DP with macro focusing wide angles (the now long-discontinued 20-28mm f/1.8 Sigmas and the more recent Tamron 28/1.8 lens) and the Nikkor 60mm macro lens. The 20 in Nikon mount was used quite a bit with the D2X (i.e. APS-C or DX). I also have this in Canon mount but have only used it with the superdome (and 1D series full frame cameras). There is a curved field so smaller apertures should be used. In my experience the 60 macro with a DP is much better than using a flat port other than for night photography. I shot quite a few pix with this dome and the 60 near Kauai in 2019.
  4. 3 points
    Hi everyone, New member here, thought I'd introduce myself with some shots from my home country, Scotland. These recently featured in the Dive Photo Guide photographer of the week. Having some trouble linking images from elsewhere so here's a link to the article and a small sample. http://www.divephotoguide.com/underwater-photography-special-features/article/underwater-photographer-week-mark-kirkland
  5. 3 points
    Happy holiday and hopefully more diving in 2021 with better images for all wetpixel members. Great resource, information and help here for which thanks to all. Have a great 2021
  6. 3 points
    It's been 29 years since the great tragedy in Red Sea.
  7. 2 points
    Lots of good advice here. I’ll add based on experience an earlier E-PL series camera then moving up the ladder of various OM-D cameras. If you want a single lens and port that does it all, there will be compromises. Wet lenses will improve them, just don’t cut corners by buying the cheapest ones as some are close to worthless. The 14-42mm EZ lens is crap in my opinion, unsharp and low contrast even on land, so I would insist on the much better 14-42 mark II but it may not work with the housing you are looking at. The Olympus 12-50mm zoom is a better lens choice with true macro capability but requires a much more expensive housing, port, and gear. I have no experience with that brand of housing, but the difference between the Olympus polycarbonate housing and the Nauticam housings are night and day in terms of ergonomics. On land, the E-PL cameras are great for travel and all-purpose use with plenty of room to grow as a photographer. And yes, 16 MP is fine. Shoot RAW from the beginning (save JPEGs too for quick sharing) and start learning how to process them in your favorite software package. Have fun!
  8. 2 points
    I got my a7s3 and Nauticam gear just before a big dive trip in the Caribbean in late November. Shot three Sony Profiles settings, sLog3/SGamut3.Cine, HGL3 and No profile. File format:XAVC S 4K at 60fps10 bit 4:2:2 for all profiles. Customize the C4 function for white balance (So I could execute WB in right hand UW and hold Grey slate and later chip chart with left hand). I used official Sony LUTs and Leeming LUTs in post for evaluation of clips. Will edit in FCP and finish color in Resolve. It was a well balanced neutrally buoyant rig with Keldan 4x Lights, red and blue filters were consistently used. I was hoping because of the lowlight capability of this sensor to shoot with no lights so as to not scare off fish. In field evaluation I sensed that just a bit of light made a huge difference in color accuracy and saturation. So after a 3 dive and no lights I shot the remaining 20+ dive with light. My takeaways: 1- Love the setup, would choose sLog3 if time in post permits CC, If not post time then I would go with no profile. You lose 1 maybe 1.5 stops of latitude but generally clips were nicely saturated and accurate. I understand some people think the sony color science is to be avoided but I saw no issues. In also I preferred Sonys LUTs over Leeming LUTs for 90% of the shots. Whats my experience in Video color science? 40Plus years surface shooting and a successful life doing so. UW shooting is just my hobby, 2- I used SDHD cards for the XAVC s 4K file format and they bogged down a Late 2013 Mac Pro with 32GB Ram and top end graphics cards. Had to use proxy's to not go crazy in post. I did buy and have tested the new Sony CFExpress Tough card and "I think" it performs well enough to be able to avoid proxies in post. This is because the CPU has to do less calculations than with a codec that has more compression. I did a surface shoot yesterday (Birds in Flight) using sLog3 S&Q settings for 120fps with XAVC S I 4K and I filled a 160GB card in well, not very long. Luckily I had a laptop to download to continue shooting. Take Away 2.1 if you want 120FPS you better mean it! Or have lotsa expensive cards. Moving them into post and seeing performance will take place in a couple days (I hope). Apologies on long post, but a couple further observations. Cost, yea I'd say camera "May" be a1/3 of the get in the water costs. so, lights and floats, buy the best you can. Housings often are sacrificed if you go for a new camera, but odd note here, I have an a7R4 and it goes in the a7s3 housing. Most of the buttons on the top work but the only button on the back at seemed to work was the Disp button. I am exceptionally happy with this my 3rd rig. Should be able to last the rest of my life. Knock on wood!
  9. 2 points
    Crotch or butt d-ring are not a viable option because then the camera hangs below/behind you with no control. Crotch d-ring can be a temporary storing option if you are not using a dpv and you are midwater but again not really the best place. Options are left shoulder d-ring (can be problematic if you are carrying more deco stages and have to do gas switches or move tanks) or right shoulder d-ring. If you are trained in longhose management then there is no problem in deployment while having a camera there, you just have to make sure that the camera lanyard is long enough to allow you to push the camera under your arm but not too long to allow the camera to move around too much. In the picture you can see what I use. Gives me plenty of options to handle the camera. Happy to explain more if you want.
  10. 2 points
    IBIS is a very personal matter. For me it is certainly a very useful tool for small units with the classic camera form factor. But I wonder: how did we survive without it until now? Simple: a lot of care in trim, a lot of practice and a lot of patience. Without forgetting that to be a good operator you must first of all be a good diver. Good diving skills and a perfect trim are fundamental. For larger units with the classic camera form factor, the problem is certainly less. It seems to me that the Z-Cam housing definitely falls into this category. They are also easier to set up as long as they have plenty of space and ad hoc arrangements for weights. I happened to play with a Canon C300 in a Seacam housing. Impossible to get a shaky shot!
  11. 2 points
    Great video, thank you for sharing. I like how you added the ship section before every video clip - this helps a lot!
  12. 2 points
    Hi RIchard, this time I have to disagree with you My buddy bought a pair of G18+'s about two/three years ago (if I remember the model correctly). The company had recently changed their name. It used to be called Jaunt. Also I have a pair of small MP10 snoot lights (Jaunt branded) that I use for macro. Although Divepro claims they are CRI 95 the color quality of the G18+ is nowhere near as good as my Keldan. We've done a lot of dives and several videos using them side by side and they have a greenish tint to them. I have wasted so much time color correcting clips shot with these lights! With the Keldan I basically adjust the tones slightly and the clips are pretty much perfect. I have never spent this much time color correcting with the old FIX lights either. After a few months one light started to flicker. At the time there was no Italian importer so the only solution was to send it back to China with costs equal to that of the lamps. After 2 years both switches stopped working. Warranty expired and we were able to repair them ourselves. That type of switch is used by virtually all Chinese manufacturers and is bound to give problems in the future. Maybe we were unlucky but I would never recommend them to a friend. For my little MP10s after a year I lost a little piece of the snoot. I went to their website and found that they had a new model of Snoot with a lens inside. I tried to ask if it was possible to get the new snoot or just the little piece I had lost. They basically asked me for the price of the new lamp. Crazy stuff. We're talking about a 1 cm piece of aluminum. I refused and 3d printed by myself. Now back to the Keldan. I have had the Luna 8 CRI since 2013. At the time the CRI model had 5000 lumen LEDs. Fantastic light. Nowadays 5000 Lumen is low so a year ago I bought just the 8000 Lumen Led modules for a very honest price and now I have new lights after 7 years. I know that their reflector and dome is bulky but you can swap the module while with their most powerful models you cannot swap the Led module. Of course, in those 7 years I had a few little problems: 3 years ago I broke a magnetic switch while on a liveaboard. I wrote an email to Daniel from the boat asking what I could do to fix it while on the trip. Within half an hour he set up a Skype video call showing me how to temporarily fix the problem. A week after I got home I had the replacement part in the mail Two months ago I broke the plastic U-bracket that holds the lamp (the only real weak point in the design).I wrote to Daniel to buy the replacement but he shipped me via DHL the replacement part at no cost. What more can I ask for? P.S.. To be honest the old 5000 Lumen Led module was composed of a series of LEDs that gave a very high quality light.The new 8K LED module is a COB type and although the quality is very high, I do not find it up to the previous one. I don't have any scientific data to support my thesis. It's just my impression. Last but not least: I believe that Keldan is one of the rare companies that indicates the real lumens of their lamps, or the lumens emitted at the current at which the LED is driven and not the maximum current at which it is possible to drive the LED. Basically if the Divepro G18+ emit 18K lumen I am John Wayne To see the NA-E2 in action see this thread (if you missed it). Maybe Brian can give additional info about its use. Regarding Z-Cam, watch out to some rumors: http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/24341/z-cam-e2-cameras-lineup-production-can-suddenly-stop/p2
  13. 2 points
    @joanna_dives One quick addition on @TimG's great comments... I too went on the same journey. Z240 with the Retra LSD snoot - the offset light makes it that much more difficult to get the image you actually want. I found myself settling for imperfect shots either because of time or frustration. Switched to Retra (Pro) strobes - huge improvement. However, I didn't stop there - the Backscatter Mini Flash & snoot combo looked really interesting - not because it would offer anything more than the Retra LSD snoot (which is excellent), but because it was smaller, and would allow me to potentially dive with my regular macro set up and bring this along as another option on the same dive (w/out having to fiddle with putting a snoot on/taking it off). The pandemic has made it harder to get field time with this setup, but I was able to use it on several dives at the end of last year - from those handful of dives, I'm sold. Very useful specifically on macro-oriented dives where you may want snoot capability and 2 flash macro (non-snooted). The mini flash & snoot combo is small enough to stay mostly out of the way when not needed, and then available when you want it.
  14. 2 points
    Here is an example I shot last week with a similar setup to yours, using a D850 / 15mm Sigma FE / 170mm port + Inon 330 strobes. The left strobe arm is 12+16+8 and the strobe is pointed inward from the upper left. The right strobe is closer in to the right an pointed forward. ISO 250 / F9 / 1/80s Left strobe is -1.5ev, right is -3ev. The water conditions in Puget Sound were relatively good by local standards at 25 foot visibility but this is heavily particulate water. I did not do any Spot removals of backscatter, but I did bring down to 0 to the Clarity/Texture (midtones) of the green water using LR. You can see there is hardly any distracting backscatter in the image. The point of using a lower strobe power is that you don't illuminate the backscatter nearly as much in poor clarity water. You can boost exposure in post processing to get the brightness you want for the image, selectively if needed. I shot at -1.5ev & -3ev which is about 1/3rd and 1/8th power for the two strobes. If I shot in these dark and chunky waters at Full or Half power the image would be blasted out. If you want a darker background use a faster shutter speed. 1/125 or 1/200. The strobes don't impact open water background color. Shutter speed controls ambient light.
  15. 1 point
    I've been playing around with compacts underwater over last few years and have recently made up my mind to upgrade. I do 98% stills (both macro and wide angle) and coming from compacts, the next logical step would be micro 4/3,...., from what I've read and researched. I've always been a big Olympus fan, I love the OM-D series cameras but with the current Olympus situation, lack of local infrastructure and a major investment that must last and be adaptable to future upgrades, I've decided to go b@!!$ to wall and go full fame (go big or go home right. LOL) I really like the both the Nikon D850 and Nikon Z7, except for focus issues with the Z7 compared to the D850. I’m not really concerned about size and weight as majority of my diving is done in locations not requiring flying to get there. Nikon recently released the Z7 II with various improvements like the two EXPEED 6 processors, “which improves ….., including its buffer, autofocus, ….”. But nowhere have I been able to find any underwater reviews on the new Z7II. Has anyone been able to do some diving with the new Z7II and if so, how does it compare to its predecessor?
  16. 1 point
    Hey guys, I'm getting into underwater macro and super macro photography. I've done many dives with GoPro but have not taken any UW photography with a proper rig. I want a camera that takes excellent photo on land (significantly better than iPhone) and great macro photos underwater. I'd also like occasionally record UW video too. The rig should be fairly small and packable for travel. After looking into so many options starting from compact cameras to mirrorless with the helps of other members on my other thread, I'm leaning toward the Sony A6400 because the reviews for on land and underwater are great. There are a variety of housing options available. I can either shoot with the 16-50 mm lens and macro wet lens then upgrade to the Sony 90mm lens later. The price is not more and the size is not significantly larger than compact rig. What do you think about the A6400 setup for my use case? Could someone share their experience with their A6400 rig? Thanks
  17. 1 point
    Hello! Yes I bought the Gx9 and the Nauticam housing. Since I live in Hungary I haven't got the chance to dive with it so far. The battery life conserns a little . I dont have exact number, but with flash raised I guess max 150-200 pics.
  18. 1 point
    I use the LX100 II in a Nauticam housing. I used the LX100 prior to that, and Nauticam has a conversion kit that allowed me to use the LX100 II in the same housing (for a cost of $30 or $40). It is a larger sensor than other compact cameras (4/3 sensor), and it has a very close-focusing zoom lens with a bright aperture (F1.7 to F2.8 over its zoom range). It is good, but not great, for macro, though I am not much of a macro photographer (my next skill to master). I find it quite good at 4k video, Panasonic and Canon cameras are supposedly the best able to set a custom white balance underwater at depth, which is important in video (saves a lot of hassle in editing). The camera's strength is close-focus wide angle photography, because the lens is very close focusing. The LX100 II is also just a nice travel camera and good for street photography. Backscatter has a good review of the camera and housing setup on its website. I have some pictures on my website that I shot with this setup in Saba, in October 2019 (the "before" days). There are more capable options, but you are looking at interchangeable lens camera, and more expensive/extensive ports. Bigger sensor cameras will give better image quality and low light performance, other things being equal (but they are rarely equal). I wonder sometimes about trading up to something with a larger sensor, but I would have to jump from the current 4/3 sensor to a full frame sensor to see a significantly better image, and that would entail a separate camera/lens/housing system which takes up a LOT of room (luggage restrictions are really tight) and a lot of expense. I would do it if I could do dive photography for a living (don't we all wish that), but as an amateur, I have plenty of capability in my current setup and do not feel constrained. I have much more to learn!
  19. 1 point
    Surely the 8-15 on an APS-C sensor makes it almost equivalent to the Tokina 10-17, which is desirable and useful, whereas on FF it has no more utility than a Sigma 15 fisheye unless you like gimmicks.
  20. 1 point
    Hi, what about the Sony compact RX100-VA? Nauticam still sells the housing for it and you can add macro and wide wet lenses.
  21. 1 point
    Big shout-out to the guys at TRT Electronics for helping me with this same issue. I had been using a manual trigger the camera didn't recognize (and so it didn't apply the 160 restriction) for wide angle when trying to get sun-rays in the shot. I do not get the black bar using 200 or even 250 (Sony a6600). Anything above 250 does catch the curtain however. The trick is to enable wireless flash mode (WL) if using a hot shoe trigger.
  22. 1 point
    Thanks so much for sharing this. We've been down south the Misool but not to Sorido Bay. Miss Raja Ampat dearly
  23. 1 point
    Worth a try. Thanks for your input!
  24. 1 point
    The PG7 on a rEvo have ambient pressure either side of the gland. Ambient water on one side, ambient gas on the other side. Maybe a fraction of a bar variation with breathing and gas addition, but that is all. Could be OK for the surface end of a cable. But I wouldn't risk it on the camera end of a cable.
  25. 1 point
    Hi Sonia. Several years ago I made an external monitor setup using a Meikon housing for a Sony A6300. Rather than cutting the HDMI cable, I drilled a hole in the housing large enough for the end of the cable to fit through (as well as cables for power and remote control). I think I sealed the hole with a layer of Scigrip 16 (which bonds well to the ABS and polycarbonate that the Meikon housings are made of) as well as a layer of silicone (since I wasn’t sure how well the Scigrip 16 would bond to the plastic/rubber of the cables). It never leaked and served me well. So I think what you’re trying to do could work out. In your case I would guess that just filling the button hole with silicone might be sufficient. A nice thing about that is that since silicone remains soft it could probably be undone if it doesn’t work out. Another good thing is that you can try it and make sure it doesn’t leak before ever putting the camera in there. Another aspect of that project that may be of interest to you is that I was able to control the camera by modifying a Sony IR remote control (like this one). The basic idea is that you have to open up the remote and desolder the IR LED from the circuit board, position it to be close to the IR receiver on the front of the camera grip, and then connect it back to the remote by soldering a length of two wires in-between. It was inexpensive and pretty easy, and it was very useful to be able to take photos, start/stop recording, and change settings remotely while viewing the external monitor. So if you think you’re got enough room to fit the wires through the button hole in addition to the HDMI cable, this might be something worth trying. Good luck!
  26. 1 point
    I use a more powerful focus light (Weefine 2300 (=Kraken)), mounted to the coldshoe of my housing. Very comfortable, but you need a TC with an internal light. In case you have a TC with phosphorescence, that you have to light from time to time with your dive light, it is not so comfortable any more as you have to turn the entire rig to make the display visible... It is also good to have a light that switches off automatically, when the flashes become active. In addition a switch opportunity to red light is versatile - I always switch from white light to red light in case I see some creature I want to photograph. In most cases, the red light does not irritate the animal and you can photograph it much easier, but one has to become used to framing in red light... Wolfgang
  27. 1 point
    OK gotcha. I want to film a certain species of fish spawning. They are a deep dwelling fish. They come up to a relatively shallow depth of around 50-55m in August of each year to spawn. I dont know how many years diving you have but you are certainly more accomplished then me by the sounds of the type of diving you do. So you would know very well that 55 meters on air is not a great idea .....but if you have to its only a few minutes of bottom time if you dont want a deco obligation. I dont like my chances of grabbing excellent footage of this fish spawning at 55 meters with a few minutes down there. So the plan is, to put a camera on a tripod and run a cable to the surface and sit and watch for some action and trigger record at the right time. I expect to spend a month trying to get a few minutes of usable footage. This is partly why I was so hot on the Sigma fp - it could also stream footage and control signals via a cable to the surface. I do get its a very narrow vertical I am into, but thats fine..... makes it all the more fun. James Cameron..... hmm you never know - right? I could be him. I will leave you guessing.
  28. 1 point
    If you dive with your camera on a lanyard, then think about where you attach the lanyard. I always dive with my camera permanently attached on a lanyard. I usually have it attached to a right shoulder D-ring. On the occasions when I have dived with a DIR style rig, I moved my camera lanyard to a left shoulder D-ring so there was no risk of it getting in the way of long hose deployment. Left shoulder isn't as convenient for getting to my BC inflate, but so be it. AFAIK, DIR purists would not use a lanyard and attach the camera to a crotch or butt D-ring when not in use. I am not a DIR expert, so will leave clarification on that to those who are. The main point for anyone considering a long hose configuration is that the rig is holistic. It only really works if you set up everything DIR. Sometimes just picking pieces of it and leaving the rest can be counter productive or even dangerous (such as mixing a long hose with a camera lanyard attached to a right shoulder D-ring).
  29. 1 point
    The mount converter v2 works with the bayonet v1 you don't need to adjust your lenses mounts but the old one has been discontinued Seems to have a different release button the old one was fidgety with gloves
  30. 1 point
    Don't be touchy. I called it an endless discussion because it touched on an infinite number of completely different topics and by the end it was no longer clear what the requirements of this elusive camera were. I've only seen remote surface connections used in film productions and ethernet connections only in large multi-camera TV productions. So I wanted to understand if you were James Cameron in disguise
  31. 1 point
    I guess people just 3D printed their own gears. I find it’s easier to print an adapter for an existing zoom gear (did that to adapt an Olympus 12-40 zoomgear to use with the Panasonic 8-18mm). If you’re lucky someone will have a design to share, but it’s not hard to do.
  32. 1 point
    Today at "La Gravière du Fort", Alsace, France. Olympus EM1mkII and Olympus 8mm F1.8 fisheye. 1/160, f/10, iso 400 Picture taken from a depth of 10 meters. No crop. Will try to do more pictures when I will have time.
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    Two Sea & Sea YS-D2 strobes in perfect condition; $950 for the pair; shipping free within continental US
  36. 1 point
    Good to know Wolfgang, thanks for sharing the photo. I use the circular end of the 8-15mm very sparingly as well, but it is nice to have when an opportunity presents itself. Many either seen to love the circular image or hate it. To crop to 1:1 or use the full 4:3 or 3:2 format is another area of debate.
  37. 1 point
    Nauticam added the FE 28-60mm lens to its Sony port chart and Sony owners should be excited. First the lens works with all Sony FF cameras. It also works with the excellent but not cheap WACP-1 resulting in an AOV of 130 to 68 degrees, the older Sony FE 28-70 goes to 59 degrees. The new Sony FE 28-60mm also works with the less expensive WWL-1 which until now only worked on Sony mirrorless with the SonyFE 28mm F/2 so young have the same added zoom range. Because the 26-60mm lens takes a 40.5mm lens filter the diameter is small enough to work with the sub-full frame CMC-1 and CMC-2 closeup lenses that many M4/3 and APS-C owners now use. At this time Nauticam lists the Sony FE 28-70mm with Techart Sony to Nikon Z AF adapter for use with WAPC-1.If you want a zoom lens for the Nikon Z system and WACP-1combo the Sony 28-70 is the only choice. Sony and Nikon Z both use the same 120/20mm port extension for the Sony FE 28-70mm and WACP-1. No port extension is required with the Sony FE 28-60mm and WACP-1 so I would expect the same may be true for Nikon Z and WACP. I would also point-out that Nauticam WWL-1 was designed for full frame even though it has been widely adopted for sub-full frame cameras. Even on high res full frame cameras like the 62mp Sony A7R IV results are excellent and superior to any wide angle lens and port combination I have tested. You can read my review of the WWL-1 on full frame in back issue #114 at uwpmag.com. I have attached photos of the Sony A7c with 28-60 zoom and A7R IV with 28-70 zoom for a size comparison.
  38. 1 point
    Don't be afraid to crop. Sometimes I'll pull a strobe into the frame on fisheye to get the lighting right. Then crop out the flash from the image.
  39. 1 point
    Great advise. I think Dave has a camera with larger sensor. For the smaller MFT (because of noise) it may be better not to increase ISO but instead increase shutter speed for more background illumination and, when strobe power is decreased, to increase aperture. Increased ISO with MFT only as the last measure, when aperture and shutter speed are already at their limits... Wolfgang
  40. 1 point
    I think it depends to a great extend on the camera and the lens... With EM1II and Zuiko 60mm (or, more seldom, Pana 45mm) macro I prefer CAF Wolfgang
  41. 1 point
    Complete Nautical GH5 setup for sale. Items were purchased May 2018 and June 2019. All items are in good condition as they have only been used on 4 2 week trips. There are some salt water marks on the GH5 housing, these happened whilst I was diving in Alor from small day boats. included in the package is the following. (All parts are Nauticam). NA GH5 housing NA M14 vacuum system with pump (an absolutely essential piece of equipment, couldn't dive without this now) NA carbon fibre floats 7-14mm Lumix lens, NA 7-14mm dome with zoom knob, 7-14 zoom gear, 7-14mm focus gear Leica/Lumix 45mm lens, NA 45MM port, flip diopter and Subsea +10 diopter NA tripod mount. ( I got longer legs for the trip-pod so you can really wedge it in to the sand to stay stable) NA 12-35mm zoom gear Total paid for all the above was $5309. I would like £3200, which is a nice saving for someone. I also have the GH5 body and 12-35 which I could include as part of a deal. Items located in the UK.
  42. 1 point
    That's a myth about magnets, probably left over from the days of floppy disks. Modern flash memory devices are not effected by any magnet or magnetic field you are likely to encounter outside of a physics lab. Below is a snip from an article and source I found on the topic. Busting the Biggest PC Myths | PCWorld Fortunately, most modern storage devices, such as SD and CompactFlash memory cards, are immune to magnetic fields. "There's nothing magnetic in flash memory, so [a magnet] won't do anything," says Bill Frank, executive director of the CompactFlash Association. "A magnet powerful enough to disturb the electrons in flash would be powerful enough to suck the iron out of your blood cells," says Frank.
  43. 1 point
    I use a flip, positioned so the diopter goes up to about the 1:00 o’clock position. That never seem to get in the way of either a strobe or focus light. Works for me.
  44. 1 point
    Thanks for the replies. I was wary of the flip getting in the way also, thanks Adam for confirmation. Has anyone used the bayonet mounts?
  45. 1 point
    Well I actually had them quite a bit behind my dome, maybe I should try more.
  46. 1 point
    Another great episode, thanks all around. Another tool for cleaning contacts is a wood pencil, use the eraser, it has saved me many times. I travel with an extra battery compartment cap for my Sea & Sea strobes. If the battery compartment floods the cap has a burst disc to relieve the pressure and prevent the sludge from being driven into the strobe. Brant Emery
  47. 1 point
    AFAIK, the only strobes currently on the market that offer HSS capability are: SeaCam SeaFlash 60D and 160D - strobes can be triggered by sync cords or fiber optics, but HSS is available only when using sync cords, only with Canon and Nikon cameras, and Canon/Nikon support is strobe model-specific - i.e. there's an SKU that works with Canon, and another SKU that works with Nikon. On the upside, HSS is available in TTL and manual modes. Retra Prime and Retra Pro - fiber optic triggering only, HSS is available only in manual mode, requires an LED trigger board in the housing to supply the proper triggering signal. UWTechnics and TRT Electronics have triggers compatible with Canon, Nikon, Sony, Panasonic and Olympus cameras (separate SKUs for each manufacturer as they have different flash communication protocls); UWTechnics triggers are shaped to fit a specific housing, whereas TRT triggers are generic boxes that fit most housings.
  48. 1 point
    1/160s is indeed the sync speed limit for A6xxx cameras. Basically, the way it works is that the shutter curtain has two halves - the first half moves down to open the frame, then the second half follows it down to close it, then they both move back upwards to reset for the next shot. However, due to movement speed limitations, in order to produce exposures shorter than 1/160s, the second curtain starts closing the shutter before the first curtain has fully opened it, producing a strip of light that moves across the frame. This works with natural light, because it's 'always on' so to speak, but if a strobe fires with a partially exposed shutter, it will produce a partially exposed image, with a black band on top, bottom, or both. The only way to overcome this is to use high-speed sync, where the strobe flickers on and off at a very high speed (I've seen 40kHz quoted as a typical number) while the strip of exposure moves across the camera sensor. Unfortunately, besides severely curtailing the strobe's power output, this mode has extremely limited support among underwater equipment manufacturers. To date, the only strobe that I know of that supports it is Olympus UFL-2, which has long since been discontinued, and it only worked with supported Olympus cameras to begin with. The also discontinued Sea & Sea YS-250 Pro has an atypically long pulse length which can function as pseudo-HSS to some extent. Finally, the upcoming Retra Flash Prime and Pro claim support for HSS with a compatible trigger (i.e. you won't be able to make use of that mode when triggering off the camera flash), but these aren't available yet, and neither are compatible triggers. What problem are you trying to solve by going beyond 1/160s though? Since you're shooting with strobes, and the majority of your light comes from them, the actual effective exposure speed is usually equivalent to the strobe pulse length (about 1/320 at full power on Z-330, for example), not to shutter open time. If too much ambient light is getting through, you can just close the aperture and/or reduce ISO.
  49. 1 point
    I’ve got a copy of: Lumix: 14-42mm MkI 14-42mm PZ 14-42mm MKII 12-25mm (now sold) 12-60mm f2.8-4 Leica 15mm f1.7 The 15mm is the sharpest and obviously the fastest. But looses the OIS. But there is something nice about the image. The MKii for me is sharpest standard zoom, probably just as sharp as my previous 12-35mm and it’s hard to see any real difference with the Leica 12-60mm at the same apertures. However it took me 3 copies to get a good one and in the end I got a proper retail copy with metal mount not the plastic kit version. The optics are the same, but needed to option to take back, not buy of eBay. Really happy with the 14-42mm MKii and the WWL-1 combo. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  50. 1 point
    I thought I should start a thread dedicated to the Nauticam WWL-1. We've discussed this in other / less appropriate topics and it's time it has a one dedicated to it. I want to start off by saying that although I know own both the Lens and the Collar I have yet to be underwater with them (first trip planned to Socorro in June, followed by a cold water (drysuit/dry gloves) trip in Sept to BC, Canada). My first impression is that this will be a really nice product, as long as you don't plan on changing the lens out during the dive. It's virtually impossible to access the red release switch on the bayonet mount with this collar installed. Maybe if you could attach a string / fishing leader or something similar to the red button to pull on it to release it easier). But it definitely very difficult to do (on land with bare hands)... Also, you can barely make out the white guide marks once the collar is installed. Since I have trouble doing this on land, I can only imagine what it would be like underwater. I tried on a pair of my dry gloves (on land) and it was impossible for me to activate the release switch. This was somewhat upsetting as my cold water trips involve shots that are both wide angle and macro on the same dive (ie: Nudibranchs / Giant Pacific Octopus / Lion's Main Jellyfish). This means, if I want to use the collar, I will have to accept only using one lens per dive. And even for warm water, with bare hands the odds of me switching out lenses will most likely be more trouble than it's worth... Also, it took me a while to attach the two little screws that hold this in place; I struggled for a good 15 minutes before I finally used the flash light on my phone to figure out why it wasn't lining up and then persuaded the hole in the foam to come close to lining up with the hole in the lens. I am sure I will get better at it in time; but I don't see myself removing it and putting it back on more than necessary. This means if I want to use both the CMC and WWL-1 lens on the same dive, my only real choice will be to deal with the added weight of the lens without the collar installed. The collar is supposed to relieve about 1.5 pounds of weight (making it about 5oz negative while attached), so I am sad that they cover the release switch with this design. I almost with they would have made it less buoyant while still retaining the ability to easily swap out lenses while on the dive. Maybe this is the plan with the aluminum version of the collar they are working on. I'll report back to this thread in a few months after I have actually experienced it underwater.

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