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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/05/21 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Hi I wanted to share a 4 inch dome build. My housing is a hugyfot D7000. A recent second hand purchase that came with a 7 inch dome. If anyone has fitted a D7500 in a D7000 housing I'd be very interested to hear! May be a future project for me and looks possible - better fit than a D7200. I was able to use a 4 inch ROV dome and an extension ring to build a dome port. Cost all in was circa £60 and I have also purchased two spare domes -£15 each. 5 min change. I'm very pleased with the result and have dived to 30M + with no issues and am very confident it will be fine to 50M. I'm using with a tokina 10-17mm lens and results look to be good - I just need to practice my CFWA - strobe placement is my challenge at the mo. Parts ROV dome port - ref 1Set Optical PC Dome Cover 110 Dome Cover Underwater Robot Camera Dome Cover 1000 Withstand Voltage|Parts & Accessories| - AliExpress Hood ref 49mm 52mm 55mm 58mm 62mm 67mm 72mm 77mm Screwed Flower Petal Sunshade Lens Hood For Nikon Canon Sony Fuji Olympus DSLR Camera|Camera Lens Hood| - AliExpress the 82MM one - need to saw off the threaded area. This is dome is claimed to be OK to 1000M! I'm happy with the quality. Extension ring - I cut down a surplus ring I got with my second hand housing. made sure the tokina 10-17mm got close - within a few mm of the dome. Method Cut the extension ring with a hacksaw to the required length. the extension rings from Hugyfot taper inside which is helpful when forming the aquasure gasket seal. Machine down the inner diameter of the extension ring. Not too thin. Cut the ROV dome ring - in my case about the position of the upper o ring. File the remaining ROV alloy down to fit inside the extension ring. Power file was used for all this work. Fit the ROV port into the extension ring I used aquasure to form a permanent gasket. I had a tight fit but the glue filled the voids and taper area so i was confident in a air/water tight gasket. Use marine epoxy to produce a strong ring at the top of the join with the extension ring. Use marine epoxy to form a strong filler bead in the inside edge. All in this gives 3 layers of protection/seal. You may have the ability to do a build that keeps the ROV port gasket but I did not manage that. I adapted a hood - had to drill slight indents so that the bolts can still be accessed for dome change if needed. Had to cut all fins. Glued into position with marine epoxy JB weld.. Made some small fins to retain a lens cover in the water - cut plastic and screwed into the ROV 'ears' see description - Type 3 ROV dome assy purchased. Results Before the hood was fitted with hood Hope this of interest. For my second hand SLR this was a cost effective option to get a 4 inch dome port. I guess a similar build would be possible with other housings. Wish I had taken more in progress shots. Safe diving!
  2. 3 points
    Have you ever wondered which lens to get for underwater videography? In this video we take a closer look at zoom lenses and why I feel they have the potential to improve your underwater videos. I also give concrete recommendations for specific lenses and focal ranges to choose. I hope you enjoy it!
  3. 2 points
    Even with the bayonet mount I use a lanyard. When it is moved from the port to the arm bracket I know that if I don’t have a lanyard I will drop it, and most likely on a wall dive!
  4. 2 points
    Hi, I had plenty of these marks on my WWL-1. I even did ordered a new WWL-1B to replace it. When received the new, I decided to finally try the product I add ordered months ago (mothers did not work for me) : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B001THF8KA/?ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00 . I did not use a drilling machine, just by hands with the provided plishing pad. The results were fantastic. There is a debate wether we should use it or not depending on the coating. But in my case, I really had to make photos because the dome was fully covered with these clouds (it had more than 500 dives). It was still working well, but in high contrast situations I was seeing clouds on the photos. The only advice I would give you is to always dry your dome properly after diving. Don't let it dry by itself. I think that's what damaged my WWL-1.
  5. 2 points
    @RVbldr, My daughter moved from an Oly system to a A7III (with a Nauticam housing) and has been very happy with the results. This (mirrorless) system is significantly smaller and lighter than either the D850 I shoot with or the D500 her brother shoots with. She started only shooting macro, but we recently added the WWL-1B so she could shoot wide, and the results (both in Belize and the Maldives) have been really positive. The zoom through capability of this wet lens has made a huge difference in subject opportunity.
  6. 2 points
    I agree with Barmaglot, the Son RX100Va would be a great step up, If you want an interchangeable lens camera that is a step up I would recommend the Olympus EPL-9 or -10. You can use the 14-45mm kit lens with wet lenses and then when you decide to step into a dedicated macro or wide angle lens you can get the specific lens and port. Take a look at the backscatter website for the Olympus EPL10. I've upgraded from the Sony RX100Va (available for sale with housing) to the Olympus EPL10. Feel free to PM me any questions you have about either the RX100Va or the EPL10.
  7. 2 points
    Hi! This is completely my personal opinion based on my own needs and situation. I was using Lightroom 6 in my previous computer. I bought a license for it, but it was not a subscription, I could use it till the end of time if I wanted -- and if my computer allowed. My computer started to show aging issues, so I upgraded, but I couldn't transfer Lightroom 6 to the new computer. Adobe doesn't have the installers in their website, and I didn't want to dig into obscure websites looking for installers. So I went with the new subscription based offering. My feelings? I don't like that I don't own the software anymore. As soon as I stop paying the monthly fee I won't be able to use it. Over a lifetime of use I will end up paying way much more now. Plus, if you update to the new version, your library will be updated to a new version that it's not backwards compatible, so you are pretty much stuck with the new version if you start editing photos with it. I'm sure that this new subscription model is great for Adobe, but I don't like it. Yes, I will always have the latest version, but I don't think that for what I do, how I use Lightroom, the move from Lightroom 6, which I owned, to the subscription based Lightroom, which now I'm just renting, wasn't worth it. I was forced to do it, but I would have happily stayed with Lightroom 6 if I could have.
  8. 1 point
    Hi all, The 613 core fiber cable used in most commercial fiber cables is actually pretty cheap per meter, but can only be bought in bulk (500M spool). New fiber can be wound around a pencil, and be immersed in boiling water to produce the slinky coils before use. I'm sure the fiber used in most Nauticam/Howshot/Sea&Sea cables is P/N MCQ-1500-22 made by Asahi Kasei in Japan. With enough interest, it may be worth the group buy of a spool, and dividing it up. As we all know, when fibers break, the connectors on the ends are still perfectly good. It is remarkably easy to put a new fiber into the old connectors. A single spool of this fiber is in the realm of $1700USD ($3.4/m). With enough people, we can save considerable money by buying a spool and reusing our old end connectors. With 20 people, at $85 each (plus a little shipping), we would each get 25m of high quality fiber cable. Even at 10 people and $170 each (plus a little shipping), it would give 50m of fiber each. Given the price of replacement standard cables, this is a no-brainer in my mind. Any takers? Bevan
  9. 1 point
    I have literally just found it on a DE deals site and immediately thought of Wetpixel Basically seems one of German shops (Galaxus DE) runs a 51% off promo now for Loupedeck CT version - 284.22 Euro instead of 585.17 Euro. Sure the price without promo is a bit inflated but other shops seem to have it around 479 so still a deal. They might ship EU wide, they also have a Swiss version of their shop. If you need help reshipping from Germany do let me know (provided you are an established forum member..) Original deal link: https://www.mydealz.de/deals/loupedeck-ct-zum-bestpreis-1838928 Shop direct link: https://www.galaxus.de/de/s1/product/loupedeck-ct-diverse-digitalkamera-zubehoer-12248516
  10. 1 point
    I have made coils from many of the Asahi cables. All for use with LED firing modules and S&S strobes. The 613 and 217 core both work perfectly There is a 1.5 mm core 613 fiber but not available by the meter from i-fiberoptics (at least today). Bill
  11. 1 point
    Hi Diggy This is not the same fiber. THis has only 19 cores, the "good one" has 613 cores.
  12. 1 point
    I've been working with researchers the past 6 years. I do underwater mapping, photogrammetry and image processing. Photography is my side hobby. Many of the applications have been very interesting from marine assessments and habitat mapping to sampling volcanic vents to study ocean acidification, etc. My favorite was conducting a population census of giant clams (Tridacna gigas), I did a digital scan of the seabed to create an underwater aerial image of the nursery, then did an automated count of the clams to assess population, sizes and mortality.
  13. 1 point
    New to Wetpixel and saw this. I would agree with Christophe about 360 moving to more cinematic. I also think it will follow a similar market like Imax films and be used in Aquariums and Museums. Here is a link to some work I have been doing here:
  14. 1 point
    @imacro I've dived Cathedrals a number of times (also looking to capture the light rays that filter through the openings in the ceilings). First suggestion: Talk to anyone else on the boat and ask if you could either take your images before they enter or several minutes (like ~10) after everyone exits. The Cathedrals sites can silt up fairly easily. One diver swimming through is all it takes to silt up the view for a number of minutes... (although shooting without strobe lighting will help with this a bit). 2nd suggestion: Check both the tide and swell (you can talk to the dive leader about this if needed) - several of the sites silt up a bit when the swell comes up (as will the tide). 3rd suggestion: 1 diver in the background will look a lot better than 3-4 swimming in front of you. If you want to frame a diver in the background plan the shot ahead of time. Last - we had the most success early AM on days we were the only ones on the boat.
  15. 1 point
    cool informational video.. I don't do much video UW, so this was very interesting... and I am a prime girl
  16. 1 point
    If you look at the port/lens charts from different manufacturers, you'll generally see that the dome ports recommended for use with fisheye lenses are often the same as those recommended for primes and renticular zoom lenses are the same. This said, there are a some exceptions. For example, I have one dome port that's specifically designed for my Nikkor 10-24mm zoom. While the dome ports used with different lenses are often the same, The length of port extensions used with lenses differ depending on the focal length of lenses. Just take a look at the port/lens charts available on different housing manufacturers' websites. You'll see which dome ports and extension combinations work with what lenses and see which lenses require specifically designed dome ports. -Tinman
  17. 1 point
    https://instagram.com/scubadiverplanet?igshid=6oyhtcub0ci2 It’s a pretty collection but I didn’t feel taking my Instagram photo, cropping off the watermark and reposting it with attribution was okay without my permission.
  18. 1 point
    I would not consider the diffuser to try to match the color temperature of 2 different strobes, specially when I had only one strobe. My approach would be: If I am happy with the strobe I already have (regarding strobe power, beam spread, power control, number of cycles with fully charged batteries, usability, reliability, etc), I would buy a second strobe equal to the the one I have. And then, if I want to modify the color temperature of the strobe, I would use the same correction on both strobes. If not happy with the strobe I have, I would buy a new strobe that could tick the issues I dislike on the one I have. And I would try to sell the initial one to be able to buy a second one like the "new" strobe. On the picture I shown before it is quite visible the difference of the color cast brought to the picture between the two different strobes. I had opportunity to use Inon and Sea&Sea toghether, they are less different than Ikelite vs S&S, but even so, the few pictures I took with that mixture did not felt right to me. Ikelite DS125 4800 K Inon z240 5500 k (5400k with supplied diffuser) Sea&Sea YS-D2 5600 k Inon z330 5500 k (5400k with supplied diffuser) Retra "Original" 5400 k Retra "new ones" 4900 k Besides that, the way you control different strobes is different, which means you need to adapt your control for the right strobe differently than the way for the left strobe if you use different strobes (if they are same brand, less complicated for the control, but not necessarily the same) My history with strobes started with an Ikelite DS125. I liked that strobe, I decided to buy another one equal to it. Great strobes. Powerfull, nice beam, warm light. Very happy till a moment I was in a dive trip at Manado and we went for a full day dive to Lembeh. That day we did 4 dives at Lembeh, and on the last dive, we went for the Mandarim fish, all my collegues with smaller strobes with AA batteries were firing away on the dive and I was "P***** OFF" because my strobes were dead. They had proprietary bateries with proprietary charger, and on a full day out I was not able to recharge them. At that moment I decided that I was going to sell the Ikelite strobes and buy new ones with AA batteries to avoid to be out of power ever again (AA batteries are easier to charge, and even if not possible to charge, most probably much easier to buy new ones almost everywhere). Inon Z240 were the strobes "everybody" was using then, they were powered by AA batteries, smaller and lighter on land, so much easier to travel with, and I bought 2. The light was a little harsh compared with the Ikelite, so I use a Lee gel filter inside the soft diffusers (on both strobes) to warm it up a bit.
  19. 1 point
    shot before covid-19 @ Dauin, Demaguete I really want to go there as soon as possible. Canon 5D MkII / EF 100mm F2.8L Macro / Aquatica housing with double INON Z330
  20. 1 point
    When I try to find some tiny critters, but too much surge at bottom. So, I grab the rock and found this lovely shrimp beside sea anemone. Moon Island, Seogwipo, Jeju, South Korea Canon 5D Mk IV / EF 100mm F2.8L Macro / Aquatica Housing without strobes, just flash light.
  21. 1 point
    Hey there! I’m curious to see if anyone here has been using the R5 underwater and could give me insight into the best autofocus mode(s) to use for my upcoming shark dive trip. I will be going back to Guadalupe to photograph white sharks. I’ve been before with a 7d mark ii but I’ve yet to do a dive with the R5. I’ll be using the rf 24-70 in an ikelite housing with the 8 inch dome. Does the animal eye detect work on sharks? Should I use a zone af? Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks in advance!
  22. 1 point
    Chris is right about the ton of bad video out there; as I said I am lucky, my wife shoots and edits pretty well so I am spoiled. Bill
  23. 1 point
    my wife would tell me to sew it myself, and I can (look up "quick stitch sewing awl", they are great for thick neoprene, web belts, BC material, etc) any anyway, neoprene also works well with neoprene cement. Trouble is old neoprene and unfinished neoprene edges shed a lot of cloth and rubber shrapnel, my older dome covers are making a mess, but that is a good idea. Neoprene cement to close the end of the sleeve, and aqua seal on any open edges to try to tack down the nylon shell and keep it from shedding. The SeaFrogs thing looks great, thanks. I've never seen their housings before, nice price and they have a vacuum port.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    As far as whale shark encounters go (and I've had a few) this one was close to perfect! Just a small group of mostly camera professionals and 2 hours with a highly curious individual. He just kept circling and coming back to us for the entire 2 dives we had with it. He also seemed genuinely interested in our cameras, and would come closer to view his own reflection in our dome ports or even curiously react when he heard shutters going off. Very fun!! Here's the video, enjoy it on your largest screen
  26. 1 point
    That was awesome, Thanks for sharing! I was so taken in by the steady slow shooting, great color, and mixture of wide and close shots that I didn't even realize it some of it was slow motion until reading the comments!
  27. 1 point
    Hi,, im heading top indonesia soon and would love recommendations, many thanks, by the way, as per your video, raja looks amazing
  28. 1 point
    Just wanted to share and discuss with other video shooters using A7SIII. Until this trip I have been shooting always in SLOG3, however for this last weekend I tweaked a HLG profile and shot exclusively with that. I found it fine to use, although colours can be a bit odd to my eye. Always keen to hear from and learn other Sony shooters settings for underwater video. Enjoying the process. All shot in 4K 4:2:2 10 bit, 60fps, PP10, HLG, with A7SIII, 28mm F2 inside WWL-1, using a combination of nitescuba NSV80 lights which I'm currently testing, and my existing Keldan lights.
  29. 1 point
    Awesome! Thanks for sharing!
  30. 1 point
    I went to Cabo at the end of May for a dive trip to Socorro. Several people from our boat got hit by the tax, some up to $400 for high end Nauticam housings and Ports. I managed to get through with out getting caught. I tried to be a bit sneaky and it worked. I was carrying two rebreathers and my DSLR gear. I put the rebreathers in pelican cases, and packed my camera gear in a standard suitcase. I went through the customs gate first with the two pelican cases with just dive gear. Of course the agents zeroed in on the Pelicans and had my open them. Meanwhile my wife slipped through unbothered with the suitcases full of camera gear.
  31. 1 point
    Hello, I am Maggie. My brother enjoyed SCUBA and underwater photography. He is now diving at the great coral reef in the sky. I am looking forward to enjoying other's pics and videos.
  32. 1 point
    Thanks for sharing! Many new videographers forget to pay attention to composition (not unlike when taking pictures) when filming and end up simply tracking subjects and just panning across scenes. Having a foreground is one of the best ways to level up your footage.
  33. 1 point
    Making good use of all the tools you have available to capture underwater video is very important, and I've come up with a list of 5 reasons why foreground elements is so essential to use for underwater videography. These are tips that can be utilized almost anywhere and it's a great set of ideas to add to your existing shot types. I hope you enjoy them
  34. 1 point
    Here are the silky sharks swarming the bait near the surface in Cuba.
  35. 1 point
    I hopped in the pool with the kit and didn't have any problems using SMC-1 or SMC-2. So if there's an effect on the working distance it's not enough to make or break my shots. If I miss focus it's going to be one of a dozen other things I did wrong.
  36. 1 point
    Hi everyone, I'm a canadian fish biologist and researcher since many years. I recently "took the plunge" (pun intended) to the practice of snorkeling and underwater photography. I do snorkeling in freshwater streams and river, in order to picture fish and invertebrates. I have some years of experience in photo outside the water, but it's only been a year of IW photography. For now I use a Olympus TG6. I joined WetPixel to seek advices from other underwater photographers, especially in freshwater streams. Here's a couple of my recent pictures, and there's more on my Flickr page Link: Step back by Olivier Morissette Ready to dive by Olivier Morissette Hi there by Olivier Morissette
  37. 1 point
    Really nice work, love the edit & music! Sent from my Redmi Note 5 using Tapatalk
  38. 1 point
    We have strongly chlorinated tap water water in the czech republic. The first step is to pour water into a PET bottle the night before the dive. 1) Put the sock on the EMWL: Rubber band on flat port. Rubber band on heel. Leave the EMWL vent holes open (bubble ring released). Put the sock on the EMWL. Rubber band on the objective lens. 2) Fill the sock with clean water: Fill the sock with clean water. Release all bubbles by moving the sock at places where are the EMWL connections (bubble rings are released all the time). Add more water to fill the sock up to the maximum (no air in the sock). 3) Close the cap. Now you can test that everything is OK. EMWL will focus above the surface with this "adjustment". If you have well-tightened rubber bands, it holds clean water very well. In my case, I have half an hour filled EMWL on shore. And then the water stays inside the whole three-hour freedive session. The first installation takes a little longer and I recommend trying it for the fisrt time in peace at home. If you know what and how, then the installation at the dive site will not take you more than 5 minutes.
  39. 1 point
    Just wanted to make everyone aware that the DMW-FL70 miniflash no longer works with the GH5M2 and therefore you need a trigger I have tried the Nauticam trigger with both my Inon and Sea and Sea and it works fine all the way to 1/400 No idea about TTL triggers etc but I think they will work I have logged the issue with panasonic as I think this is software related but I am not sure I will have any joy
  40. 1 point
    Regarding AF I can say that I use both Pana 45mm and Zuiko 60mm macrolenses on Oly EM5II (CAF) and EM1II (PDAF). With EM5II AF is much better with 45mm compared to the 60mm. I believe this may come close to the situation with GH5 (also CAF). With EM1II (PDAF) AF is very good with both lenses... Wolfgang
  41. 1 point
    This is not my experience. When I dove both lenses in Lembeh I felt that the 45mm focussed a little bit better. I'd say that the difference is marginal in any case. I also felt that with the 45mm it's easier to shoot some of the larger subjects you might encounter, like frogfish. On the other hand, supermacro (e.g. shaun the sheep nudis) was much easier with the 60mm + saga+10. I think there is a reason to own both lenses, but as a general all around macro lens I'd pick the 45mm first.
  42. 1 point
    The 45mm supports dual IS in case you had any wish to do macro handheld (not recommended) In terms of differences mostly it is about working distance the 45mm has closer working distance than the 60mm This also means that if you use a CMC type wet lens the 60mm will achieve more magnification but for video that will be very hard anyway
  43. 1 point
    Definitely looks a focus issue to me rather than a movement blur as there is no sideways movement in the shots, and on the first the texture of the crab is still visible even though its a long way off being sharp. What Chris says makes sense, and I would suggest trying out those settings, and maybe more, in a filled bath with some form of static subject to shoot so you're in total control of any movement etc and make a note of which settings are giving sharp results at what distance Mike
  44. 1 point
    Last weekend I left the macro behind and took out the 15-45 with the WWL-C instead. Even though the dive site was more of a small critter site than one that called for wide angle, it's not like I'm taking out an 8mm fish eye... Anyway, I was happily surprised by the versatility of this combo, even managing a decent shot of a nudibranch at 45mm. At 15mm, there is a quite a lot of vignetting, to the point of seeing the edges of the dome in the corners, so for the wide shots I definitely need to allow for some cropping. I've included the out-of-the-camera version of the first pic to illustrate.
  45. 1 point
    Hi Elmelodico, Thanks, glad you like the video! Lot of turtles on those dive sites, makes life easier for filming them. I do try to white balance every time with depth changes, maybe sometimes I'm a little lazy, especially if something happens quickly, rather record than do that process, so I'm sure that's the issue that its not spot on with the depths sometimes, very aware of that problem, need to be more disciplined. I've tried different WB techniques, such as the auto where you set the lock button, so you just need something neutral and toggle the button on/off, which works fine, but takes 5-7 seconds to effect, I usually prefer to WB directly off a tank of another diver or a white slate, both work the same (grey or white), same as topside photography. I have preprogrammed top right button to WB, and on there I just have two clicks, wb on, then custom, and press. I notice can also save custom WB, maybe 3 of them, 5-10-15m just for quick changes, but its still not as accurate as manually for every shot of course. With regards tracking, I always just leave the camera on wide focus AF-C for 99% of my shots, that works perfect for me. If im shooting Macro, I use the little adjustable square and just move it to the face of the subject, and same AF-C. Not tried the normal 'tracking' if that's activated only by touch screen as you say, would be interested to know if anyone has figured out how to use that without touchscreen? I don't see hardly any shots out of focus with the method im using, even for super macro on night dives I have use that same method and most is super sharp, if you want to have a look at that video of A7S3 shooting macro at 120fps in night 'bonfire' diving, the link is here for my YouTube of that:
  46. 1 point
    Hi How Mach for the 45mm macro port ?
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    Selling a Nauticam NA-A7II housing. Has seen about 70 dives and shows normal wear, but is in perfect working condition. Includes vacuum valve/pump and leak detector electronics work great. $1500 OBO plus shipping.
  49. 1 point
    Nice images, Adam. However, obviously it all depends upon one's situation and subject matter. Not everyone shoots large subjects in open water with artificial lighting. I'm normally shooting small subjects in shallow freshwater streams with natural lighting. And yes, many of my wide angle shots could not be gotten with a large dome. Here are a few examples with subjects less than an inch from a 4" dome (closer than a large dome could get) and/or with the housing pressed against the stream bottom (lower than a large dome could get):
  50. 1 point
    I have a complete Nauticam NA-A7II housing for sale with a ton of accessories. Photos available on request. I would sell the entire package for $3500 which includes everything listed below. Items can be sold separately. The prices below are for reference only (new pricing on Nauticam Website). Nauticam NA-A7II Underwater Housing for Sony a7II/A7RII/A7SII Full Frame Mirrorless Camera (17414) $3190 https://www.nauticam.com/products/na-a7ii-housing-for-sony-a7-ii-a7iir-camera Nauticam N100 to N120 35.5mm Port Adaptor with Zoom/Focus Knob (37303) $520 https://www.nauticam.com/products/n100-to-n120-35-5mm-port-adaptor-with-zoom-focus-knob-for-na-a7ii-a9 Nauticam N120 Extension Ring 50 with lock (21150) $380 https://www.nauticam.com/products/extension-ring-70-with-lock Nauticam N120 8.5 inch Acrylic Dome Port with shade (18802) $680 https://www.nauticam.com/collections/n120-ports/products/8-5-acrylic-dome-port-with-shade-and-neoprene-cover Nauticam lanyard 23cm with snap hooks (25412) $40 https://www.nauticam.com/products/23cm-lanyard-with-2-snap-hooks Nauticam C-1635II-F Focus Gear for Canon EF 16-35MM F/2.8L II USM (19542) $295 https://www.nauticam.com/products/c1635ii-f-focus-gear-for-canon-ef-16-35mm-f-2-8l-ii-usm-for-use-with-21270 Nauticam C1635II-Z Zoom Gear for Canon EF 16-35MM F/2.8L II USM (19527) $210 https://www.nauticam.com/products/c1635ii-z-for-canon-ef-16-35mm-f-2-8l-ii-usm Nauticam C2470II-Z Zoom Gear for Canon EF 24-70MM F/2.8L II USM(19543) $340 https://www.nauticam.com/products/c2470ii-z-zoom-gear-for-canon-ef-24-70mm-f-2-8l-ii-usm Nauticam NA-A7II Camera Tray (90172) $210 https://www.nauticam.com/products/na-a7ii-camera-tray Nauticam Universal Hotshoe Plug (25057) $69 https://www.nauticam.com/collections/flash-triggering/products/universal-hotshoe-plug-x-and-ground-connection-only 8.5’’ Dome Port Neoprene Cover (25015) $46 https://www.nauticam.com/products/8-5-dome-port-neoprene-cover Nauticam N100 Housing Body Cap with Bayonet Mount (36328) $46 https://www.nauticam.com/products/n100-housing-cap-with-bayonet-mount Nauticam N100 Rear Port Cap (36329) $32 https://www.nauticam.com/products/n100-rear-port-cap Nauticam N120 Rear Port Cap (28106) $35 https://www.nauticam.com/products/rear-port-cap Nauticam N120 Rear Port Cap (28106) $35 https://www.nauticam.com/products/rear-port-cap Nauticam Mirrorless Main Housing O-Ring (nau.a7ii.oring) $28 https://www.nauticam.com/collections/o-rings/products/nauticam-mirrorless-main-housing-o-ring?variant=19470989590621 Nauticam Port O-Ring for N100 (nau.n100.oring) $19 https://www.nauticam.com/collections/o-rings/products/nauticam-port-o-ring?variant=19470994374749 Nauticam Port O-Ring for N120 (nau.n120.oring) $19 https://www.nauticam.com/collections/o-rings/products/nauticam-port-o-ring?variant=19470994309213 Nauticam Port O-Ring for N120 (nau.n120.oring) $19 https://www.nauticam.com/collections/o-rings/products/nauticam-port-o-ring?variant=19470994309213 Nauticam Silicone Grease (Nau-25016) $23 https://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/nauticam-silicone-grease-25016 Nauticam Silicone Grease (Nau-25016) $23 https://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/nauticam-silicone-grease-25016 Nauticam Silicone Grease (Nau-25016) $23 https://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/nauticam-silicone-grease-25016 Nauticam Silicone Grease (Nau-25016) $23 https://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/nauticam-silicone-grease-25016 M14 Plug For Housing with O-Ring (28114) $21 https://www.nauticam.com/products/m14-plug-for-housing-with-o-ring Pelican iM2600 Storm Carry-On Case w/ dividers and foam (Green) $172.95 https://www.pelican.com/us/en/product/cases/carry-on-case/storm/im2600 Energizer 2450 Battery $5 https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/908460-REG/energizer_cr2450bp_cr2450_3v_lithium_battery.html



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