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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/17/19 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Hi, a video from my 2nd winter stay at East Greenland. We dove in the fjord in front of Tasiilaq. My plan for this video was to capture the elemental force in this region. I wanted to show time lapses of moving ice during the tides, under- and above water, and mix impressive icebergs with macro footage. A big thank you to Sven from Northern Explorers who supported my ideas and let me do what I wanted! The video is actually in the order as i experienced the trip. As i arrived we still had some left over packice. a few days later the winds brought icebergs in the fjord. After a week hundreds of iceberg right next each other were stranded in a bay. Unfortunately the last week the climate change said hello, and we had unusual warm weather for this time of the season and rain. We can´t went out on the snow mobiles anymore, because all the snow was melted away in only a few days.. And at the dive spots which were in walking distance, the viz droped to 5 meters due the melting water which were washed in the ocean. The video was shot in 7 to 8 days, on 13 dives. Enjoy watching! Alex.
  2. 3 points
    Hello everybody, I just returned from a 3 week trip to Indonesia. My first week was spent in Lembeh with NAD Lembeh and had the opportunity to go on my first black water dives. Needless to say I quickly became addicted and didnt miss any dives. A quick review of my experience with NAD Lembeh. I will echo most of the reviews I have seen on the website regarding my experience, it was phenomenal. Although this was my first trip to Lembeh and thus have nothing else to compare it to I will say that I will not be staying anywhere else during any future visits. I had a nice room by the beach, bed was very comfortable and AC worked to perfection. The food was fantastic, and they were very accommodating since I am vegetarian. The dive boats are great with ample room for all on board. The staff carry all your equipment to and from the dive boat and set it up, including the camera. The camera room was very ample with lots of charging space. There are computers to edit/post but I did not take advantage of this service. Since I was in a room by myself I had my own dive guide/buddy/photographic assistant which was Andri. He was great, very patient and never in any rush to move on. It didnt matter whether we spent 30 seconds or 30 minutes in a subject there was never any rush. Here are a few shots taken during black water. Critique highly encouraged. Many more to come including during regular dives. Many more posted on Flickr. Larval wonderpus Blackwater-2 by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr Blackwater-2 by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr Larval mimic octopus, maybe? blackwater-7 by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr blackwater (1 of 1) by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr Larval long arm octopus blackwater (1 of 1)-5 by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr Larval Long Arm Octopus by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr blackwater (1 of 1)-6 by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr
  3. 3 points
    I've used the WACP with 28-70mm on several trips over the past year and am impressed with its versatility of FOV range. I believe that is about as close as you’ll get to having your cake and eating it; for now, with full frame. Some examples. At the narrow end (70mm->75degrees): http://www.underwaterdisplay.net/dive63/FJ190513_3215.jpg http://www.underwaterdisplay.net/dive63/FJ190514_3382.jpg At the wide end (28mm->130degrees): http://www.underwaterdisplay.net/dive64/MOR20191007_5670.jpg http://www.underwaterdisplay.net/dive64/MOR20191004_4678.jpg Downside is weight in lugging this beast down a beach but once in the water it’s a thing of beauty. In Moorea recently we did a lot of swimming in the blue and there wasn’t much difference in water resistance (possibly less) between my rig and those using large domes.
  4. 3 points
    Should you find a way to actually make a living off of selling underwater imagery - Keep it a secret! Because if you don't, then soon everyone else will have the the secret and it won't be a secret anymore and you will be back where you started. Inspiration and innovation is the mother of invention. Actually it’s just a mother.
  5. 2 points
    1. The color chart isn't necessary. It's there to confirm the accuracy of the technique. 2. The technique as I understand it requires multiple pictures of the same object from different distances in order to reverse-engineer the water filtration factor by comparing the colors of that object (or pixel) from different distances. 3. The advantage over a simple white balance as far as I understand is that it depth-maps all the elements in the picture in 3d space and appropriately color-corrects for all of them depending on the amount of water between that object and the camera. So you'd see warm colors extending far into the background, not just for the foreground subject as you would get with a normal white balance off a grey card at foreground distance. 4. For photos this process is rather cumbersome as it forces you to take multiple pictures of the same subject from different distances. So it will not provide a 1-click adjustment for photos in its current form. 5. For video however, this could be brilliant if your video clip involves movement anyway, as you can get a lot of distance information from subsequent frames of the video (the same way you can get 3d mapping from a moving video clip when doing photogametry). So potentially this could be implemented as a 1-click solution for a video file. Though it would obviously work better raw video.
  6. 2 points
    Hi, I want to share my latest video with you In winter I have been at the White Sea in Russia for ice diving and i was curious how the landscape and diving might be the rest of the year. Because i like the indian summer colors i decided to come back in autumn. My plan was to capture the autumn mood at the White Sea and create a story around a leave falling and sinking in the sea. On the spot it turned out that this story is not far-fetched, because leaves constantly flushed by the tides in the sea. So, have fun watching! globaldivemedia.com
  7. 2 points
    It takes a loooong time to get to the Maldives (south of India in case you didn't know) but the diving is fabulous, the people are wonderful, and it's well worth the effort. We just got back from 9 days on the Manthiri, had a fabulous time, and wanted to share our experiences with you. Below you'll find the links to the trip report as well as the overall picture page, which contains 12 teaser pix plus links to the full SmugMug slideshow (view it as a single-page collage, click on individual pix for full-screen, or choose "slideshow"). There are also links to the five short videos we created during the trip as well, which includes the Manta Feeding Aggregation at Raa Atoll (even though the title says Baa). You've got to look at at east that one. WAAAAY cool and amazing experience. Enjoy!!! And let me know if you have question or comments (or want to reserve your spot now for our next journey there). MALDIVES 2019 TRIP REPORT MALDIVES 2019 PIX PAGE: 12 TEASER PIX with SMGMUG & VIDEO LINKS - Ken
  8. 2 points
    Allow me to suggest that you don’t always want “flat and even” lighting, for macro unless you want to produce straightforward ID images. Light and shadow need to be balanced. Backscatter needs to be managed. Backgrounds often need to be minimized. These objectives are not usually compatible with “flat and even” light. I had been pursuing the same goal. Most images were OK, some better than that, but few were outstanding. My biggest revelation came on a weekend when I (inexplicably) left my strobe arms at home, and had to jury rig one strobe to the cold shoe on top of the housing, literally strapped to the focus light mount with duct tape with no ability to swivel downward. I figured what the heck, it was worth a try. Somehow, I stumbled on a lighting setup that used the very edge of the light and produced better images than I had been making. Two examples below. Now I actively try to use just the edge of light when possible, aiming the strobes slightly outward or upward. Remember that strobes produce a cone of light at about 90-100 degrees. You also want the front of the strobe just behind the front of the port. I like them at 10 and 2 o’clock because it seems more natural to my eye to have the light coming from above the subject. I also frequently turn one strobe off, or turn one down to several stops if the shadows are too harsh. There are other ways to set up that might seem counterintuitive. Martin Edge’s book The Underwater Photographer and Ales Mustard’s book Underwater Photography Master Class both have lots of good material on strobe positioning. There are many good tutorials on this and other topics available on line: Backscatter tutorials UW Photo Guide tutorials Dive Photo Guide tutorials Good luck, and have fun!
  9. 2 points
    I used only loc-line parts (and some additional screews to create a quadropod. I used 1/2 " parts but perhaps 3/4" would be more stable. It was very easy to assemble. You can see it in work in this video:
  10. 2 points
    Here my 2 cents on the excessive noise problem with small sensors: Trimix-Wolfgang's observations on excessive noise with MFT are supported by the testshots of DPReview, so this are not just subjective impressions and his observations are substantial. This is, however, only the case when comparing the cameras at the original manufacturers ISO settings. To have a look on your own, open this link: https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/panasonic-lumix-dc-gh5s-review/6. Select as cameras OMD-10III (similar sensor as EM5), EM1II (for best MFT sensor), D500 (for Z50 comparison, likely similar sensor) and D850 (for FF reference). When selecting ISO100 and pushing up exposure +6EV with the Nikons, and ISO200 (=base ISO with olys) and +5EV with olys, one can see excess noise with olys and D500 performs much better as expected by the small difference in physical sensor size (384% for FX, 165% for DX and 100% for MFT): Manufactureres ISO settings can, however, not always directly be compared: DxO measure the actual ISO sensitivity by themselves to make the ISO information provided by the manufacturers comparable. Then, at comparable ISO sensitivity, the SNR of D500 is almost identical to EM1II. According to DxO an ISO200 at the EM1II is in fact ISO83 (="DxO ISO ?"), ISO100 in D500 and D850 correspond to ISO70: Wolfgang
  11. 2 points
    I use this project suggested in one the several threads on the topic It's perfect for my needs and very cheap
  12. 2 points
    cardinalfish by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr Double ended pipefish by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr Flounder by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr Jack in jelly by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr
  13. 2 points
    female paper nautilus/Argonaut riding plastic trash. Although I did see many riding their normal jellyfish, this one made me sad considering the amount of trash we are putting into the world and our oceans. Female Paper Nautilus by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr paper nautilus/argonaut with plastic trash by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr Female Paper Nautilus by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr
  14. 1 point
    Hi- I'm Laurence Ransom from Greensboro NC and have been reading Wetpixel for about a year. I am a realtively new UW diver x 3 years and have just begun serious UW photography. Looking forward to learning better technique etc.. from this site.
  15. 1 point
    Blue green whatever basically not good conditions to shoot without strobes and too deep... Which is the reason why haven’t bothered yet Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. 1 point
    The results of the technique do not look that incredible to me? Most of the close shots once white balanced properly they look pretty much like those in the video. Maybe I am missing something but I do not see lightyears between the examples and pictures I already take today once corrected
  17. 1 point
    ATTENTION AMATEUR & PRO UW PHOTOGRAPHERS planning a trip to Baja Mexico: Now that I have returned from Baja California, Mexico, here is what I know 1st hand. If you fly into Cabo San Lucas or into La Paz, Mexico, expect to pay a fee if the Customs agents stop you and notice that you have an underwater housing. The agent will Google the housing to see it’s worth, then demand that you pay 16% of that price. Many new DSLR UW housings are $4,000 or more. You will pay $640 US dollars to use that fancy new housing in Baja Mexico. The customs agent will also show you an official document in English that states you may bring in 2 cameras and the accoutrements involved, but the underwater housing is a fee by Mexican law. I ran into a pro photographer I know who happened to be staying in the same hotel. He was leading a small underwater photo tour in La Paz. The vacationers were all from Switzerland and they all told me that they had to pay exorbitant fees for their camera housings and their video housings at La Paz airport even though they were all amateurs themselves. Customs officials are targeting underwater photographers at the airport in Cabo San Lucas and in La Paz. If you have a hard-sided protective travel case for your gear they will stop you. The customs agent said I was allowed 2 cameras and the things that go along with that, BUT an underwater housing must be taxed by Mexican customs laws even if you are not a professional. He showed me the document in writing about this customs law. I told the officer that I was NOT a pro photographer, but the document he showed me specifies underwater housings as a taxable item. I told the officer that my housing was old and maybe worth $200 which is true since it is about 7 years old. He got out his cell phone and looked up the model name and number (Olympus PT-EP08 UW case for E-M5) and said it was worth at least $300. In order for me to enter the country and use MY OWN underwater camera case for personal use (I do not earn a living by photography nor do I sell my photos online or in another way) I had to pay $50 US dollars to keep my housing with me. FYI: Customs officers in Cabo San Lucas airport take credit cards for this "Photographer's Fee". Even though Cabo/La Paz is the nearest warm water diving destination to my home, this will be my last vacation here for underwater photography. If you have a nondescript, soft-sided carry-on suitcase that you can carry all of you underwater housings in, then do it. If you have to check your underwater housings through with a hard case and your dive gear is packed in a bag with a diving insignia on it, they will stop you. If they find an underwater camera housing in you luggage, the Mexican authorities will nail you for 16% of the value of that housing at the price that they find online.
  18. 1 point
    Hi all, I just embedded a 20 minute video into my tutorial on underwater strobe positioning, so now there's a personal video workshop plus in-depth instruction on the best strobe positions for macro and wide angle. The tutorial addresses single strobe and dual strobe setups. Hopefully you find it useful! If so, leave a comment here, on the video or email me! Strobe Positioning: https://tutorials.brentdurand.com/underwater-strobe-positioning/
  19. 1 point
    Really lovely and cool when the ice moves underwater;))) Graet!!! Søren
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    Hi, i was using the same camera and the Olympus 12mm f2 with iso 800.... And still motion blurr.... Mostly passing by in some distance, water green and not very clear... We had only one time the shark was realy filling the frame.... The dives start very early, and deep, so not a lot of light.... Make sure you do more than one, even then that one was not good.... We did 5 in two weeks, two were bad, ontwo were ok, the last was great ;-))) Had the 8mm Pana and the 12-50mm Oly and the 60mm Oly with me. There was some nice tiny stuff as well. For me the reason to go back to a Nikon DX camera afterwards.... Regards, Wolfgang PS: here you can find some pics from that combi... http://reefdesign.eu/malapascua-2016.html
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    Yup its not the button unfortunately. I contacted them and they instantly said they'd sent me a new board and links to videos of how to change it myself (which leads me to believe maybe this isnt a rare problem!) Does mean ive had to go and buy a soldering iron. I like the light but not overly impressed by the fact i got 2 months use, it broke, lost it for 2 months for a repair and now its happened again...
  24. 1 point
    Thanks to @Architeuthis I have completed the walkthrough on the blog including some featured images I am very excited by this combination that narrows the gap between MFT and cropped sensor to almost nothing https://interceptor121.com/2019/11/02/fisheye-zoom-for-micro-four-thirds/
  25. 1 point
    FOV issues aside, here is Pawel's take on IQ of the lens: http://24x7.com.au/Optics/Nikonos/index.htm :)) One advantage of the lens over the rectilinear/dome system is size and weight. It is also relatively cheap. ian
  26. 1 point
    Thanks for the replies on this. @Colin. Impressive shots there! Very sharp from edge to edge and this is the allure of the WACP. When you need wide angle you need it. But historically its been hard to have sharp edges as we all know. Two optics address this very nicely...Nikonos and now the WACP. But when a unique opportunity arises and I need to zoom in to crop as tight as I need ...well then I need that ability to do so ...but optically on the spot , not afterwards throwing half my res away. So very nice examples of the WACP and it helps immensely to visualize what it can do. Thanks for your input. @Tom. It is true that neither is ideal for a portrait but its the best compromise to date I think. I need longer more than I need wider for my application but I do need wider at times. Not easy. But I guess this business never was.Nice shot of the Manta Ray! Do you have the WACP? If you were starting again which way would you go? Stars and Stripes in Germany..... that most likely means an Army brat. I was lucky I never had to live on base and drag my kids around with me as my posting never moved. @Interceptor. You are right, 24mm is not a portrait length at all. It's a quandary. I suppose one answer is to carry two rigs at all times..... OK so that's the part that I was missing.....X 0.36. Now it makes much more sense. I will only be shooting full frame from here on out. I will keep the D2X for macro only. I just bought Ian Marsh's old Seacam D800 setup to get some bubble time on before I go into a higher end full frame. One cant argue that the D850 seems to have some sort of mojo to the images that anything else so far seems to lack. So yes my application of WACP is for full frame. I have another need as well...video. So the WACP kills two birds with one stone, so there is that. The Nikonos wont help me with video and it's a pricey optic. Its a dilemma for sure. I do need those head and pectoral fin shots but I also need environment shots as well. Seems there is no answer for this yet. Going a little off topic but while I have the brightest minds here, I have the 105mm for the D800. Is the 60mm of much use on full frame for portraits? I have the D2x for macro with a 60mm on it already. Is there a good reason why we can't have an SCP port (Super correction Port)? You know, from 10mm to 105mm, super sharp from edge to edge at all focal lengths? We have super computers that could crunch the numbers for weeks or months to get the correct optical formula after all. If Dick Tracey could talk into his smartwatch 50 years ago already, why can't we have this in the 21st century ?
  27. 1 point
    Guess I am not explaining myself well. Look at this photo of Tom's. https://www.salmonography.com/Aloha/Hawaiian-Invertebrates/i-sDTfBJv/A Exif data says shot at 35mm. Will the 28-70 in the WACP zoom in closer and make the fish in that picture appear bigger? Or is the 20-35 zoomed into its 35mm setting as big as that fish can look in a picture taken from the distance it was?? Either optic is an amazing bit of glass ! I keep going back and forth on the Seacam Nikonos lenses...yes....no...yes...no....yes...ahh Maybe WACP...er...maybe Nikonos....er no...er yes...endlessly ! First world problem I know. I suppose another way of saying it is I want it all. I want to go as wide as possible when I need it and I want to be able to zoom in for a fish portrait when I need it. I want to do it all on one dive. I also want my cake and I want to it eat too :-) This is the 21st century. It's time we could do this in these times of amazing tech advances...for goodness sakes, we can now do more with a phone than just talk on a phone with Android/Apple smart phones, so ...... P.S anyone here old enough to remember Dick Tracey? He used to have a device on his wrist that he could talk into and see video footage of the person he was talking too...as kids we said...one day we will be able to do that.
  28. 1 point
    So, my 2 cents worth I purchased some of Mr Grouper's gear. Straightforward, honest, no problemo. Package arrived 5 days later via Canada Post, well packaged, with absolutely no issues. The rear cap for the port had been overlooked, and he happily sent this out at his expense. Nothing but positives with respect to this seller. I feel for Lowjack 8, but there is always some risk with shipping, especially when it crosses borders. It really sucks to have to pay taxes and brokerage fees, especially on used items, but that is the reality. ian
  29. 1 point
    Thats in a lake right? I dont think this will be stable enough with current.
  30. 1 point
    regarding choice of Oly vs Pany lens, maybe go a retailer and try both, using AF inside the store to see which AF's best on a lowish contrast target in store lighting close to 1:1 to see if there is any difference in AF performance. I woud guess there is little to pick between them in sharpness. My Pany 30mm autofocuses quite quickly on my EM-1 MkII in fact better than the 60mm.
  31. 1 point
    Feeding squid by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr OceanArt2019-1-17 by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr Juvenile fish hiding in jellyfish by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr Juvenile fish hiding in jellyfish by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr Larval eel by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr snapper by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr blackwater-1 by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr
  32. 1 point
    Here is my second project using FCPX: https://youtu.be/6u1IIMjMOWA I will greatly appreciate your constructive criticism and recommendations. In this video, I was trying to capture a beauty and abundance of marine life in Raja Ampat during our 9-day stay at Misool Eco Resort. My camera is Sony A7Rii with a 28mm and 28mm+fisheye lens. I used two Keldan Video 8X lights (11000 lm, 92 CRI), which are fantastic video lights. Thank you very much.
  33. 1 point
    Adjusting the WB in the camera is only useful if you shoot JPG. The camera WB will not affect the RAW file. The distance of the card doesn't matter, I usually just hold it at arm length while I shoot it. It needs to be at the same depth as your subject. To detail more the workflow: Shoot a picture of the WB card holding it at arm length (or put it on the floor next to your subject if it is a static subject) Shoot a set of pictures in the same area Move a bit too much or ambient light condition changes, reshoot the WB card etc. Typically, I take 5-6 WB shots during a dive. Post processing goes as follows (in Adobe Bridge as I find it best for my workflow): Open a WB card picture in camera raw, set the WB on the card, close the picture Copy the development settings fo the WB picture, paste the settings to all pictures taken with the same lighting conditions Review the pictures with the WB corrected this way, select the pictures worth advanced processing Open a selected picture in Photoshop, and make 3 copies of the background. Apply to each copy one of the following adjustments: Auto-tone, Auto-color, Adjustments>Match Color>neutralize option Depending on the image, one of the three adjustment will give a better result, select it for the final picture You may fine tune the result by mixing the output of the original image, and of one or several of the adjustments: make some layer partially transparent and hide others ... The picture in my previous post used the result of the Auto Tone adjustment, no further WB improvement needed. This also works if you have not a WB card shot to initiate the WB correction. Just do the first step manually, the better the initial WB correction in Camera Raw, the better the output of the following adjustments. This workflow is quite efficient, and you can automate most of the steps or apply them in bulk. You don't need to fiiddle with color tone sliders, ...
  34. 1 point
    First, great shot. Love it and I see why they would want it. Second, I sell enough uw images to have a sense of what you might charge, but that depends on 1) how bad the company needs such a photo, 2) the rarity of your image (e.g., does someone else have a similar image?), 3) what media will it be used for and how frequently and 4) will it be on the home page of a website or the cover of some form of print media. I typically charge $150-$300 per photo if they just want use for social media and marketing purposes. However, if it is a rare species or photo, then I may up the charge to 400$. But the biggest jump in price comes when people want to use the shot on their home page (website) or the cover of a book/magazine/etc. In those cases I charge $500-$1,000. You have a unique shot, but I think about 250-400$ is fair unless they want it for the front page of their website or on the cover of their marketing materials. In those cases they are using your shot to drive sales, and I find that companies are willing to pay more in such cases. The key is knowing your market. I will soften on prices when I think the customer doesn't have the extra cash. I will stand firm on prices when I know the company has money and will be using my shot to market their product. If they don't buy my shot, that is fine, but nine times out of ten they come back to me willing to pay my price. Hope this helps, great luck selling your shot. John
  35. 1 point
    Sorry, my mistake! Didn't notice that the Retra Pro/Prime are "HSS" ready. We will have to chech how this work when they are released, or when this feature is enabled (maybe through the app).
  36. 1 point
    Well there are many situations where you have to shoot in ambient light underwater: with large fauna like Manta Rays, if you are diving respectfully of these species protection, you will not use strobes. It is getting forbidden in many places conscious of these marine species protection strobes have a relatively short range, and natural light will often be the best option when your subject is a bit too far shooting in ambiant light will give a result that cannot be achieved with strobes, with good white balance calibration Here is an example where I find that ambient light is superior to strobe, during an encounter with a whale shark. I happened to take pictures in ambient light, while another diver was taking shots with strobes on the other side of the shark at the same moment. We were at 15 m, so pretty dark and poor light, both at about the same distance from the shark. With a Nikon D7500, I took a shot at ISO 100, f4.5 1/125 at 17mm with Sigma 17-70mm, here is the unprocessed JPG: The picture is overall underexposed, and with depth, totally lack any color. The other diver that you see in the picture took a shot with a Canon EOS 5D mark IV at ISO 400, f8 1/180 and 15 mm fisheye (not his best shot, he took much better shots, but this is one which he took about the same time as me) The strobes were not strong enough to light the shark. The key difference between the two shots shows in post-processing of the RAW files, in the ability to get more natural colors. Here is the picture taken in natural light, with some basic white balance processing and reframing: The background is a bit washed out, but Camera Raw and Photoshop manage to recover a natural white balance. However when trying to recover white balance from the picture with strobes, you get hot spots on the parts of the shark lit by the strobes. As you push to recover white balance on the overall picture, these spots turn bright red. This would require complex editing to adjust the white balance by zone. Well the backward compatibility with Nikon F lenses means that Nikon owners can upgrade to the Z50, keep their existing lenses, and buy Z lenses as they are produced. As Nikon has kept the ergonomics of the Z line very close to the DSLR's, this makes a very smooth transition to mirrorless. So for the OP Trimix125 who is a long time Nikon user, this is probably the best option. For non-Nikon users, the matter is more to find the camera brand which best match their tastes. So Nikon will be great for some, while others will prefer Sony or Canon. One thing is sure now: mirrorless camera is the future. The question is how quickly to adopt them? Again a matter of taste, between early adopters and others who prefer the platform to mature and improve before adopting it.
  37. 1 point
    Hey all! I've just finished a group of video tutorials designed for all levels of u/w photographers to speed up their editing workflow: -> tutorials.brentdurand.com/editing The videos (and companion articles) cover Presets, Collections and Target Collections, Watermarks and more. Are there other topics you'd like covered? Shoot me a DM if so. Thanks, and enjoy!
  38. 1 point
    Great for me to know about! Thanks!
  39. 1 point
    Hey guys, Sharing my first shot using Canon 7D and Tokina 10-17 fisheye. Its my first time to DSLR
  40. 1 point
    My opinion... I have both Olympus and Panasonic 8mm. Still having it. And yes, the Oly glass is superior, but not by heaven and earth. But u got F/1.8 when u need to shoot sunray in a cave... Not a necessity, but something nice to have. And no, u don't have to remove the lens in order to remove it from your housing. That's only for M.Zuiko 7-14mm F/2.8 PRO. Macro, my choice is Olympus 60mm F/2.8. Good working range with great Image Quality. Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk
  41. 1 point
    Check out this underwater review of the Sony A7R IV, we had the chance to take it to Guadalupe Island and test it with the white sharks! https://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/sony-a7r-iv-review
  42. 1 point
    GorillaPod are good for off camera strobes or best case video lights With nauticam housing or ULCS tray base you can build a base that is on 3 wide feet and works well for macro https://interceptor121.com/panasonic-gh5/macro-video/
  43. 1 point
    These are some great ideas. I found this worked best for me. I've been shooting video for years. Most of the time I want the tripod to disappear. Big is bad, small is good. Mostly for macro. Otherwise, good buoyancy is my friend. Current? Muck stick works well. https://www.amazon.com/Rienar-Flexible-Portable-Adjustable-Cellphone/dp/B00XTHBE6A/ref=lp_499308_1_16?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1571321380&sr=1-16
  44. 1 point
    The best optical performance of a rectilinear lens will always be a larger dome regardless of materials There are some cases on Nauticam chart where a glass port is suggested when the size is identical. I asked them why and they told me generally glass has better durability and resists reflections but there is no performance difference actually. In other cases for mid range zoom the dome suggested in glass is smaller than acrylic this is because of the durability point above and the fact that the glass has more trim On larger ports acrylic becomes very buoyant and the trim becomes unacceptable so there is a tendency to use glass
  45. 1 point
    Nice work, I can see why they would want to use that for marketing.
  46. 1 point
    AshKaras - you alluded to it in your post. Use a high aperture (f/18 +) and more of the background of the image will be in focus. The amount the background will be in focus depends on the distance to your primary subject, a concept known to landscape photographers as Hyperfocal Distance. I cover this in Part IV of my video tutorial miniseries on Autofocus for Underwater Photography. Good luck!
  47. 1 point
    diminuative paper nautilus/argonauts. these guys are dwarfs in comparison to the large females male paper nautilus/argonaut on jellyfish by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr male paper nautilus/argonaut on jellyfish by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr
  48. 1 point
    I regret buying my YS-D2 strobes. Bought one very slightly used (i.e. no warranty), and one new. The new one was messed up upon arrival. It would flash itself every few seconds while underwater with no provoking. Bluewater replaced that one for me. The replacement for that ended up with the burnt flash tube like in this thread like 6 months later. That one was replaced with the D2J yellow version. Now the first D2 that I bought (the not truly new one) no longer changes output strength when I turn the dial. Stuck in one setting only. Was fine for 2 years and now this. My dive buddy had a YS-01 fail on her as well. Wouldn't fire and perpetually charging the capacitor while getting hot. Don't buy from Sea & Sea. Retra or Inon only at this point.
  49. 1 point
    You could argue both ways on the battery cap issue. To me the key with INON o-rings is to use enough grease, the just enough to make it shiny instruction which is right for housing o-rings doesn't really apply to INON o-rings. The issue is the sliding motion as you screw on the cap wipes the grease away, so if they are well greased they screw on easily and the risk of twisting is minimised. In addition the transparent cap allows you to inspect the o-ring and you can see the sealing surface easily through the cap and tell if it is twisted or there is hair or grit. I was actually convinced on the INON when I bought it as the dealer argued that the INON had a better battery cap arrangement. The Manual I agree is terrible but they are not that hard to understand and there are a few online guides available which cut through the crap and tell you how to use them. As for reliability there are a number of threads on S&S reliability but not so much on INON, there's internet amplification to consider but that should apply equally to both brands. The one issue with the INONs was the small knobs which has been addressed with the latest Z330. Another point in favour if the INONs is the slave sensor is much more sensitive compared to S&S. If we are talking Z-330 vs YS-D2J the INON is also significantly more powerful even though they have the same guide number more or less as the Z-330 has a much wider beam. The S&S has an 80° beam without diffuser and the INON 110° without diffuser. If you add the 100° diffusers the S&S becomes guide no 24 and GN 20 with the 120° diffuser. INON offers a -0.3EV soft diffuser which maintains 110° and just softens light and gives a guide no of 27.
  50. 1 point
    Just take pics of things how it is, leave the marine life be. I really thought this was common sense, or at least hoped it was.

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