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  1. 4 points
    I think the answer will depend on what you mean by underwater photography. Carrying a gopro on a stick is a very different thing than diving with a full kit with tray and dual lights and strobes, with macro and WA swap-able lenses. The amount of dive time will also vary by person. Before you branch out from gopros I would say you need to be able to do a few things consistently and without much thought. Buoyancy is key. You need to be able to maintain your buoyancy even when other things are happening to divert your attention. Particularly early on with photography, trying to figure out the settings and just working the camera takes a lot of focus and with newer divers once they pay attention to that, buoyancy and situational awarness start to fall apart. Once you can keep buoyancy when task loaded that's one sign you are ready Situational awareness. Photography can consume most of the attention your brain can give it until certain things become ingrained through experience and muscle memory. That goes for the physical muscle memory of working your gear and your camera as well as the familiarity to be able to do both without much thought. You should be able to function all your normal dive gear quickly and easily without much thought. S drills, lost mask, reg recovery, etc should be very proficient, and you can do them at any time. Adding a camera system in the middle of these can cause real problems if this isn't able to be handled quickly and easily without much thought. It really helps to get very very familiar with any camera system on the surface, and then with a few shallow dives to work out where your problem areas will be. Each person is going to reach this experience level at different times so its hard to say X number of dives will get you there. If you are diving with a group of divers and one or more is mentoring you, ask them to help you work on some task loading exercises, and work through any buoyancy issues when doing them. You can work on camera familiarity on land. Also if someone in your group shoots, see if you can buddy with them and them let you shoot on a dive to see where you are. If things get to be too much work out a plan to just hand stuff off.
  2. 3 points
    Thank you Interceptor, We build the WACP-1 and WACP-2 for underwater photographers who demand superior image quality at larger apertures, such as f/5.6 or even f/4. While the WACP-2 in combination with the Nikon 14-30mm results with 140° AOF images with quite low distortion, and very good image quality across the frame, our main objective is not aiming for zero distortion. First of all, zero distortion doesn't exist at all for any lens in the wide angle range of 130° to 140°. For example, the Canon 11-24mm (max AOV 126°), the Nikon 12-24mm (max AOV 122°) and the Nikon 14-30mm (max AOV 114°) all have certain amount of barrel distortion at the wide end. Naturally, the WACP-2 as an afocal add-on lens mounted in front of a lens having barrel distortion, it will be not able to eliminate the inherent barrel distortion. Using any of these wide angle zoom lenses behind a dome port also doesn't help with barrel distortion. Until now we haven't seen anyone to be able to produce perfect zero distortion images using one of these wide angle lenses behind a dome port. Of course, the normal dome port theory applies here! People can't achieve relatively good sharp corners until closing down the apertures to around f/14, and a dome port could actually induce more barrel distortion to the system. Adding a corrective lens in front of the camera lens may further complicate the issue because it introduces another type of distortion to the system. There is now a 12mm (AOV 122°) lens in the market that claims to have zero distortion, at the price of heavily and unnaturally stretching the images at the corners. It is fine for shooting buildings, but any subject, in particular people, will look extremely unpleasant if placed near the corners. The result of using this lens behind a dome port is yet to be found out. Best regards, Edward
  3. 2 points
    Stopped in Ambon last October for a few days of diving after a LOB trip in the. Banda Sea. If you haven't dived Ambon it's well worth the stop as the macro life is wonderful and abundant. This was my second time visiting and diving with Critterjunkies. Here's the video of the underwater experience. Comments and critiques welcomed.
  4. 2 points
    These lights all use the same COB LEDs (other than the Big Blue, which is not a good option, IMO), so the differences between the quality of the light are minimal. More meaningful differences exist between the beam angle and ergonomics. Note that both the Keldan and the Sola have 120/110 degree beam angles, which is a waste unless you're solely filming video with a fisheye. Unless build quality and ergonomics are much more important to you than price, I'd look into the DivePro G18 Plus lights (the Jaunt G18 in the post above).
  5. 2 points
    Another data point here: Issue is trying to use the single fibre optic port to trigger two strobes and it's not working. It is a different version of the housing so check if the housing you are looking at uses this same arrangement. Also check port availability. With luck you may find a user who can comment from experience.
  6. 2 points
    The original version of this trip report was posted on the front page of Wetpixel a few weeks ago, but I have now updated it and added some new images on the version I have done on my site. Here is the link to Diving the Witu Islands All the wide-angle images were taken with a Nikon D500 and 8-15mm lens in a Nauticam housing with the 140mm port, which I personally find to be really great combo. The macro images were taken with the 40mm Micro-Nikkor - I screwed up in the last minute packing and left my 60mm and 105mm macros behind... As they say the best lens you have is the one on your camera! I have been visiting Papua New Guinea regularly for 20 years, but this was the first time to the Witu Islands and I really was impressed. When you look at the location of the islands in the Bismarck Sea, relative to the rest of the Coral Triangle, it becomes clearer why they are such so biodiverse. Here are a few images to illustrate what I mean. Don
  7. 2 points
    My Pro's arrived two days ago... beautiful design and execution. Pairs with the app nicely... All of the accessories from V1 fit nicely on the V2. The neoprene jackets stay on better with the bumpers. Now just need to get them in the water:)
  8. 2 points
    Here is a link on Nautilus Fleet’s website regarding this topic: https://www.dropbox.com/s/a3g70ez3yz733d3/2019-Customs-Cameras.pdf?dl=0
  9. 2 points
    This is the feedback I got from Backscatter on the MWL-1 with a 30 on m43: “If you wanted to use the 30mm macro with the MWL-1, I’d recommend using the CMC-2. Otherwise, the minimum focus distance is too close with the CMC-1. You’d basically have to be touching the subject to achieve focus. This is a pretty cool setup, but a little limited. The MWL-1 doesn’t provide the best image quality unless you shoot at really small apertures.” So not much of an endorsement for the combination. Seems like the Pana14-42 with WWL-1 and SCS make a better if larger and more expensive combo.
  10. 2 points
    I just got my new strobes and physically they are beautiful, even the neoprene sleeves look awesome on them. Hopefully the wheatear this weekend will allow for diving here. With out yet been shooting underwater, my only complain would be is that it looks easy to scratch the front acrylic. Retra sells protectors to use when not using diffusers or reducers. Those bits are now ordered. Bluetooth connectivity seems to work well, but I have only been playing with the pilot light intensity. Now we have to wait for a new trigger with HSS, it will be interesting to try HSS. Only time will tell if the new strobes are as reliable as the trusty Inons Z240. I hope they do. Kind regards, Joss
  11. 2 points
    Look for fish sitting still with all their fins up, they are probably at a cleaning station - the cleaner may be quite small and not so easy to spot.
  12. 1 point
    I think in blue water almost any dome works well because the water background does not show field of curvature issues. The field of curvature problem decreases with the radius of curvature, so as long as the hemisphere is large enough to contain the lens field of view, larger dome always performs better than smaller domes. This is more noticeable on reef and especially wreck interior scenes than it is with blue water The op has a 230mm dome with a 12cm radius this is the best optic for full frame on Nauticam right now and with DX will be definitely adequate even at f/5.6 in bluewater
  13. 1 point
    Most cameras have the option to be full manual, so I don't really see the problem. I don't think Auto-exposure and AF are the energy hogs of cameras anyway. The reason for low battery life on mirrorless is that the sensor is always active to provide live view. If you don't want that you can still get SLRs though.
  14. 1 point
    I'm looking for another compact setup. I've dove with a Sony RX100 for years, and I have a much larger Olympus EM5 setup I'll be selling. I had knee replacement, and was an absolute debacle. I'm looking for something fairly lightweight like the Sony, but I'd like to try something new. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Thank you.
  15. 1 point
    In cooperation and with the support of Retra company, UWTechnics has built accurate TTL-profile and HSS up to 1/8000, - for Retra PRO strobe support. New Converters are available for Sony, for other cameras it is in development now.
  16. 1 point
    Gearbow and Adam, This isn't probably what you want to hear, - but hear me out I've been there, done that, spent a fortune, and I'm still forever chasing optimal image quality (from newer cameras, more powerful lights, more lights, filters, to external recorders to raw enabled BM cameras) and in the end, it's all back down content - some of the best video I've taken was with my Hero 7 a couple of years back if I"m honest. I just watched your cave video on my 13" MacBook and for interest I also watched it on my LG 4K SuperUHD TV (note: not a OLED) and I think it looks amazing - could have been NatGeo. I was really getting hung up on video quality when it all just gets watched in a video on YouTube or on a mobile device. Agreed the WWL-1 combined with the 14-42mm II is the best combo for the GH5, I would even ride the aperture at let it go to f3.5 (that's f7 DoF eqv - if not greater with the WWL-1) Intercepter wrote about the WWL-1 being afocal also. I'm sure Wet lenses increase the DoF also. But in the end - it looked great from here, would love to dive caves myself one day.
  17. 1 point
    In terms of weight and overall size, a Panasonic GX9 in NA housing, with 14-42mm, and NA wet wide lens (WWL) is almost the same weight and size as an RX100 in NA-housing with same WWL lens. For wide angle, a GX9 with 8mm pana fishey and 4" port is significantly lighter than an RX100 setup with wet wide lens.
  18. 1 point
    I’m selling this setup because I’ve migrated to full frame. Housing is used but in great condition, never been flooded. Camera I believe has about 35,000 shutter actuations but I can verify that number for anyone interested. Pictures available upon request. $2500 or better offer.
  19. 1 point
    I plan to build TTL profiles for Retra strobe in a week. First turn is for Sony, some later for Nikon / Canon / Olympus / Panasonic. By the way, i also have some additional information for today, - few days ago Retra team tested new strobe with TTL-Converter UWTechnics #11031-II (Nikon TTL), it worked good enough using existing profile YS-D2 or YS-D1, only required some correction at the end of working range.
  20. 1 point
    Only on dry land so far; I will have it in the water in two weeks. With the UW-Technics converter, manual mode works fine, but TTL categorically does not work - it always fires with the same fairly low power, both in mode 1 (Inon Z-240) and in mode 6 (Ikelite DS-160); I'm not sure why, maybe I'm doing something wrong? Oddly, with the pop-up flash on my Sony A6300, the TTL mode appears to work fairly well - I was getting the same exposure at f/11 and f/22 (ISO set to 100, shutter speed to 1/160), although wider apertures were getting overexposed. Can't test HSS because my camera won't let me select a shorter exposure than 1/160 - need a new firmware revision for the converter to enable it. Pavel wrote a week ago on tetis.ru forus that he's expecting a sample in two weeks, and then he will try making a TTL profile for it.
  21. 1 point
    Just as a couple of data points, not trying to sway you at all. About the size of the Sony RX, or typical high end P&S, this being the FIX/S90. Easy carryon, the strobe arms go in my dive bag. The case holds two D/Z strobes, wide angle wet lens, macro lens, tray and odds and ends and the camera, 19 pounds: Moving up to the NA6400 and Sony mirrorless, in the Pelican Air carryon, WWL-1 lens, CMC-2 lens, NA6400 with handles attached and two D/Z strobes, the float arms go in my dive bag, the camera and required lens in my backpack, weight is 21 pounds: I used to shoot a Nikonos III, similar size as these, I also had Ike housed SLR and they were a true hassle to carry around, not to mention filling with water regularly which tended to increase their weight notably. I would expect the same with a full frame dSLR. J
  22. 1 point
    Put the camera in the bathtub and find out yourself is what I do...
  23. 1 point
    The RX100 working distance increase as you zoom approaching one foot on land that becomes 40 cm in water so it will go back an forth the focus point and generally fail until you zoom out
  24. 1 point
    that's what I assumed. Still a good deal BVA
  25. 1 point
    Oskar, Thank you for your reply. I had success times two but before that let me address your question. The only twisting was incidental. Nothing at all like described in edit 1 which I did not see until after doing the repair this morning. The strobe was mounted on a ball at the top of the housing (ball normally used for pole cam or focusing lights). So the only movement came from plugging and unplugging the plastic end into the strobe and incidental movement to move the cabling out of the way - I used a standard curly Seacam S6 - S6 cable. After the initial failure I started swapping strobes so there was a little more movement of the cable. First the old model. When it failed I got a Seacam S6 - S&S cable which I attached to the opposite bulkhead to confirm functionality of strobe and camera which turned out OK. Then I went for the second adapter - at this point I had not yet opened the box containing the 2nd strobe plus accessories. Number 2 worked OK as I described yesterday. Today. I first fixed the problematic adapter. It was challenging to remove the broken bit. I found success by using a micro screw driver to wedge it out about 0.5mm. I was then able to grab hold of it with a small needle-nose pliers - the one I had in my UWP tool kit. The transparent part came out first. Following a little more digging with the screwdriver I got enough of the black part out to grab with the pliers. The screwdriver I used as well as the two parts of the cable that I removed are in the attached pic. One can see the wear on the ends resulting from my extraction technique. I then attached it to my housing after mounting the old strobe. Made sure it was on SL and it worked! I think I had it on to just "on" yesterday. So success on both the cord as well as the old strobe working via fiber optics. My suggestion is to have the hole at metal end of the adapter part be of dimensions compatible with the plug that is on the strobe end of fiber optic and use the same plastic part on each end. Think double-ender like a Viking ship. One could unplug the fiber optic part from the adapter part for traveling making them easier to pack. Fiber optic cords could be packed separately into a more or less flat compartment. This would reduce stress on the fiber optic part since it would not have a heavy object attached to the end (the adapter part). People like me would be happy if you sold the plastic plugs by the boxload (2 dozen or even 50!). I like having backups plus the cords could be made for different lengths. The set screws could even go in a small ziplock bag saving the labor of installing them. Thanks, Tom
  26. 1 point
    The RX100 never had an issue of focus since Mark I other considerations are more important when choosing which version
  27. 1 point
    Did you mean 30% of retail price or do you mean 30% off retail price (a significant difference) Bill
  28. 1 point
    Following this. I have Sola 3600s/9600s and Scubalamp V6K. The performance of the V6K is very good, build quality and customer service of the Solas is as expected from L&M. I have a friend who has the 8Xs, and we hope to go diving soon to get some first hand experience. Not answer to your question, but hopefully may get wiser in the end.
  29. 1 point
    I don't ordered neoprene jackets, but I made those with old wetsuit. Tomorow, first dive with the new toys !
  30. 1 point
    Hi Horvendile It seams to me that you are looking to arms too big. Too big arms will produce more vibration to the camera, will be much more drag on the water, will be cucumbersome for WA close focus, and your strobes are not so strong for such a distance. On the past I made myself 2 arms with 40cm (more or less 16 inch). I had to cut them in half as it brought me the "problems" I reported on the previous paragraph. I have 4x8 and 4x5. the firsts I use for WA, the laters for macro. for 2 strobes (Inon Z240) Specially for macro you need small arms. sometimes you need to place the housing in quite narrow spaces, and the bigger the arms the more difficult. Cheers
  31. 1 point
    I had a look at www.Nauticam.com and saw that the housing for EM5III is already available: https://www.nauticam.com/collections/olympus-mirrorless-housings/products/na-em5iii-housing-for-olympus-om-d-e-m5-iii-camera I must, however, say, that I am still not convinced about EM5III over EM1II: the housing comes without the handles and the shutter release lever is inferior and needs an upgrade to become comfortable ("pistol type") - then it costs similar to the NA-EM1II housing that has the handels already built in and also a very fine "shutter-lever"... There is, by the way, aEM1III soon to appear. Presumably it will have the same sensor but better processor (=faster AF) Wolfgang
  32. 1 point
    Take a look at El Gouna, just north of Hurghada. I dive there with a local instructor / guide / keen photographer called Moustafa Housin who freelances for Orca Dive centre. Moustafa is obsessed with the small stuff and will hunt around you for macro subjects as you compose your shots - absolutely no rushing, and he knows the sites like the back of his hand. Long dives welcomed, plenty of patience, and he gets a real kick out of getting you the subjects you want. If you want dolphins, you can probably persuade them to do a trip to Sha'ab el erg, aka Dolphin house, where if the stars align you can get some really close ups of the resident pod. I'm no expert, but here's some from the last couple of years with him https://www.mikepoolewildlife.co.uk/elgouna2019 https://www.mikepoolewildlife.co.uk/hurghada19 https://www.mikepoolewildlife.co.uk/hurghada17 Let me know if you want more details Mike
  33. 1 point
    The front glass is thick and robust, it's one of the heaviest parts of the whole assembly! A few scratches here and there have absolutely no effect on lighting quality, especially under water. If somewhere down the line you decide to polish it you can use any kind of polish for acrylic glass. Or you could send it to us for a replacement. We have to add this to the Maintenance section of the user manual inside the App...
  34. 1 point
    I'm not overly impressed with the WB settings (manual), and video with the RX. I've had two complete RX setups. It's not bad, but probably the most disappointing of all the setups I've had. It's a nice compact setup, but again I've had seen better. I'm leaning towards a LX10 II right now, but I'd like opinions. The video quality I've seen from the LX looks top notch. I love the EM5, but it's twice the size of the RX setup.
  35. 1 point
    I saw your post on the Oly kit on SB. Sorry to hear about your knee. Are there things you don't like about the Sony? It may help others make better recommendations. I have an RX100V myself, and my main complaint is the inability of it to WB so ambient is really not possible to get good results with video. For that reason I am setting up a Panasonic I had to see if I like it better. Along those lines I think LX10 would be the popular panasonic compact choice, and for MFT interchangeable lenses the G9 would be the next step up. GH5 would be the next step up. Moving up in the bodies doesn't add that much weight and size, but the lights, strobes, arms, lenses and ports is where the bulk and weight start adding up, but you knew that.
  36. 1 point
    If you can, try to go to the Reef House resoort for lunch in Oak Ridge. It's a very personable place. If there around 1:30 when the dive boat is in for lunch, talk with divemaster David and get local suggestions. Nobody knows that section of Roatan like him. You might also talk to the resident dive instructor Robert about taking a trip over to Cayos Cochinos for some different diving. If you have never been to the Mangrove swamps in Roatan (above water), I highly recommend it. Also drop into Hole in the Wall, past the Czech Village.
  37. 1 point
    Hi Terry I have sent you a direct message. Look forward to hearing from you.
  38. 1 point
    TG series are not MFT are tiny 1/2.5 sensors that are really not comparable
  39. 1 point
    DUAL IS really shines in focal lengths longer than 200mm (FF equiv). Until then it's nice, but Olympus IBIS is really good enough. Remember, they were once the market leader for IBIS and they are still near the top if not the best. They have DUAL IS in their 300mm PRO and 12-100 PRO. Most macro lenses also don't have OIS so it is mostly not important. The only exception is standard zooms with macro converters. Personally, I don't think that AF (speed or accuracy) is a problem and I use an old EM5mkI. Many on this forum though note, that macro photography gets a lot easier with the better AF systems (Nikon D500 comes to mind). I use AF and if it fails, this is because of user error. I don't think I would make less errors if I only MF. For Video it is of course a different story.
  40. 1 point
    Being a long-time Nikon shooter, I use Nikon underwater and above. Personally I use the same camera (D850 now, D810 before that) above and below water. I wanted the best camera I owned to go underwater with me, and it took me 10 years to convince myself to take that risk (and spend that much $$). I am extremely happy with the D850 underwater, and I would prefer it over the Z7 for instance, unless I was shooting video and wanting acceptable autofocus there. That said, I've come to the point where I typically don't mix above and below water for shooting. I used to do it a lot - diving from a cruise ship is a good example. But I got tired of lugging all the gear for 2-4 dives on a trip, or even 10 dives over 5 days. I've since started just doing dedicated dive trips of 1 or 2 weeks where I can get in 18 dives/week. When I go on a dive trip, ESPECIALLY WITH FX CAMERA, I simply don't have room to take many lenses. in fact due to the packing situation I have, I can really only take 3 lenses, and two of them are for underwater. The third has to be some shorter prime to fit the remaining space. Sometimes that is an 85f1.4, sometimes a 35f1.4. My diving lenses are limited to 16-35 and 105 macro. So on a dive trip, I typically don't have the lenses I want for above water anyway. To me this argues in favor of a dedicated dive camera as it may not be used much above water anyway. (I use my cell phone a lot for above water, and I also use my old RX100 which comes along as an emergency spare dive camera (along with housing). If you haven't looked at the logistics of bringing an FX camera along, or looked at available lenses, start looking. When I shoot Nikon FX underwater, I have the choice of fisheye, wide and macro - nothing in the middle. I don't much like fisheye, so that means I have a choice between a 16-35 (and a 230mm/9in) dome or a 105 macro. M4/3's has a lot more choices. DX has somewhat more choices. And a 230mm dome port? Until you've held one you don't know how big it is, and it is BIG. Until you've packed one, you don't know what will and won't fit in your bag. And it will limit you in how you pack and what you bring. TSA is really curious about it too when it shows up on the x-ray.
  41. 1 point
    Int, I use a Sony AX700 and recently experienced a huge improvement in autofocus success underwater. A diver heard me complaining about focus failure using WIDE, and suggested I try CENTER focus. Oh, what a complete difference it has made! Here's a bit of detail: Including CENTER, there are five focus modes available for the AX700 camera in video mode. The other four are MANUAL, ZONE, FLEXIBLE SPOT and WIDE. ZONE and FLEXIBLE SPOT are available if the screen can be touched or if the joystick can be operated to indicate to the camera where to focus underwater. These aren't available on the Gates housing. So until recently I used WIDE, following the recommendation of the "experts." This resulted, as you mentioned, in lots of focus hunting and failures to focus. Very frustrating. When I switched to CENTER focus, magic seemed to happen! Most of the out of focus moments went away - my footage is in focus probably well over 90% of the time. What a great relief! Hope this helps, Tom
  42. 1 point
    Hello, Mikołaj from Poland. Working as a cinematographer I travel a lot and dive whenever I have day off. Sometimes shoot underwater film projects as well. Hope to meet creative people and get some knowledge about UW photography!
  43. 1 point
    I think it is actually commendable that Nauticam tackled this problem. I for one I am not a supporter of 50/60 fps video underwater and I hate the persistent slow motion videos of fish but at least if you really want to do something at that bandwidth you have some options now It is more case of asking yourself if you really need HDMI 2.0 or not
  44. 1 point
    Hi, I wanted to update the topic with some images that show the condition of the color checker after 4 years of use. Honestly, I am impressed with the quality of the chart especially with color blocks that are still retaining the original colors. The main problem is that the pages after a lot of use come out cause the glue deteriorates. This can easily be fixed by using super glue. If you do underwater videography as a profession or you can afford a color checker, it is worth the investment. Remember to chose a video chart that is supported by your editing/color correction program. The color checker needs good lighting to produce good result. It can get you to a good starting point for color correction or can be used as a good reference.
  45. 1 point
    Honestly, it isn't that complicated... Looking through my A6300 menus, I have, among those that are relevant: Quality: RAW - there is no real reason to shoot JPEG underwater Drive mode: single - can't really shoot bursts with strobes and pop-up flash, maybe with a LED trigger and low power Flash mode: rear curtain sync Focus mode: DMF for macro, AF-C for wide-angle Focus area: Center AF illuminator: Off AF drive speed: Fast AF track sens: High ISO: 100 for macro, auto 100-800 for wide-angle Metering mode: Center White balance: Auto SteadyShot: On Zebra: Off - it's useful for video, kind of useless for stills with strobes Grid line: Rule of 3rds Auto review: 2sec - wish there was a 1sec option Peaking level: low for macro, off for wide-angle Peaking color: yellow Live view display: Setting Effect OFF - this is important, as if you turn it on, camera will focus with aperture at your set setting rather than wide open. With it off, it will let it maximum light for focusing, and close the aperture as you take the shot. Priority set in AF-S: AF Priority set in AF-C: Balanced emphasis AF w/shutter: On, but I use a trigger extension. If you want to use back-button focus, this goes to off. Exp.comp.set: Ambient & Flash Monitor brightness: Sunny weather Power save start time: 1 min As far as shooting goes, I keep it in manual mode, f/8-f/13 for wide-angle with 10-18mm or 16-50mm, f/11-f/16 for macro with 90mm, f/22 for supermacro with 90mm and +13 close-up lens, 1/160 shutter most of the time, a bit slower if I want a brighter blue background. Sometimes I play with flash compensation a bit if I feel that TTL isn't doing the best job. Display mode is almost always the electronic level; it makes a very handy reference. I shoot with both hands on tray handles, triggering via an extension on the right side. Don't really push buttons much while diving; right hand only really leaves the tray handle to adjust aperture via top knob or shutter speed via rear knob.
  46. 1 point
    Hi to all, The Sea&Sea M77 (or M82) correction lens is a great tool for rectilinear wide angle lens. The M77 is a meniscus lens which offers a compensation of the dome port. That compensation increasings the perifpheral sharpness more than closing the aperture over f/16 , where the diffraction became a waste. I use Sea&Sea MDX-D800 with Nikon 17-35/2.8 +Sea&Sea M77 behind the 240 dome + ER40+ER20 (extension ring). Also the Nikon 18-35/3.5-4.5 AFs + Sea&Sea M77 offers good results using the same 240 dome + ER40+ER20. Very good result for me is from the old Tokina AT-X 17/3.5 AF Aspherical (thanks to Adam indications) + Sea&Sea M77 and extension ring 40mm (dome 240+ER40) for more compact asset. Tokina 17 has an MFD shorter than the two Nikon wide zoom and it's better in any case. I'd like to try newest 230 glass dome in the future..... but the future is mirrorless! For nikon user (like me) is a difficult time, today we have few choices for Z system (native) and too old lens for F.
  47. 1 point
    Hi Jamie, I reviewed the new A6400 for uwpmag.com issue #108 May/June 2019. This can be found by going to the home page and finding back issues at the top of the page. The article is a free PDF download. The A6400 has excellent AF speed, eye AF both human and animal (which so far is not all that good for fish). Also excellent image quality for 24MP. The under $900.00 A6400 lacks the IBIS which the A6600 will have along with excellent AF and the huge upside of the newer Z battery which was left out of the 6400. This will more than double battery life. If you do macro I recommend the Zeiss 50mm macro which will also work with the Nauticam wet lens MWL-1, with theSony PZ 16-50 you can also use the Nauticam WWL-1 wet lens. Other lenses I have used and like are the Zeiss 12mm F/2.8 and the Sony 10-18 F/4 both work with the Nauticam 180mm port so that is the way to go if you like rectilinear lenses. If you want apples to apples performance wise with the D850 I am working on a review for the Sony A7R IV, excellent AF and tracking, weather sealing lots of excellent lenses, high battery life. You can quickly toggle between FF 61MP and APS-C at 26MP. This works great with lenses like the 90mm which acts as a 135mm on APS-C. Much much more, the review should be ready for the Nov/Dec 2019 issue of uwpmag.com
  48. 1 point
    well you can use the wacp on the d500 and would still produce stellar results. I love the d500 (and that's after shooting the 850 a LOT) and I opted to house the d500. I have no qualms about the d500 IQ and if you pair it with great glass youre going to get great results. Use it with the 18-55 and you have pretty much the exact same versatility as the 28-70 would be on the 850. And both those lenses are incredibly cheap so im not sure the wacp should be the deciding factor between the d500 and 850 i'm not sure any of what I just said helped...
  49. 1 point
    Arms,clamps,mounts and floats are sold! Bayonet lens holder is still available.
  50. 1 point
    Since the 10-17 is a DX lens (for use with cropped chip cameras) you need to add the teleconverter in order to be able to use it with FX cameras (full-frame chip). With either type of camera you are able to focus closer with the teleconverter on. You can use the same dome, but you need to add an extension tube behind it equivalent to the length of the teleconverter.

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