Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/22/19 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Hello all, I am breaking up my Seacam gear and selling it piecemeal. There are some nice Seacam items listed at approximately half-off new. Minimal wear on housing exterior, all other items in like-new condition, unless indicated. Pictures available on request.:) Shipping extra. 1) Seacam D800 housing: The housing went back to Seacam in Austria for a full rebuild last year and has one dive trip on it since then. While there, I had Harald replace the rear plexiglass window. I also had him drill and tap a hole on the top to accommodate the Seacam vacuum fitting, in the same location as the fitting on the D500 housing. Much more convenient than the fitting on the lower right side by the handle. Few small nicks on base. Handles scuffed. Does not include viewfinder, strobe bulkheads or control board. Standard Seacam handles Current list: $5987, selling for $1000 USD 2) Seacam Vacuum Test. Vacuum/moisture detector combined, with Seacam valve and pump, in neoprene bag. Current List $491, selling for $300 USD 3) Seacam Pro Viewfinder. Plastic mount slightly marked, glass perfect. Current List $421, selling for $200 USD (SOLD) 4) Seacam S10 Viewfinder. Perfect. Current list $1856, selling $850 USD 5) Seacam Macroport 90. Few superficial scuffs, glass perfect Current list $367, selling $200 USD 6) Seacam Macroport 120. Perfect Current list $367, selling $250 USD 7) Seacam Zoom Gear, Nikon 8-15mm FE Current list $226, selling $175 USD 8) Seacam Focus Gear, Nikon micro-105 AF-S Current list $265, selling $150 USD 9) Seacam Silver M8 ball adapter Current list $39, selling $20 USD 10) Seacam Wet diopter set Current list $913, selling $500 USD 11) Seacam small handles. Better ergonomics for regular hands without gloves. Current list $??, selling $25 USD 12) Xit 404 Quad ball mounts, lanyard attachment points, with ULCS dovetails x2 Current list $70, selling $35 USD each 13) UW Technics Seacam TTL control board. Rotary switch setting. (Compatible strobes: Z-240, YS-D1, YS-D2, YS-250, DS161, DS160. For usage with Nauticam fiberoptic cables or electric 5-pin cables.) Non TTL works as manual flash trigger. Includes 2 Nauticam fibre-optic bulkheads. Uses Seacam Hotshoe. Current list $750, Selling $400 USD I have bought and sold lots of gear on Wetpixel and have a great reputation. As always, my sales are honest and up front. Happy browsing:) ian
  2. 1 point
    Tokina 10-17mm is a fisheye lens. Fisheye lenses have huge depth of field at the cost of distortion. Your new 17-40mm is a rectilinear lens - it does correct the distortion, keeping straight lines straight, but this comes at a cost of depth of field limitations. Rectilinear lenses correct for field curvature - imagine that you're shooting a flat plane, and draw lines from your lens to the center of the subject and to the corners; depending on your distance to subject and angle of view, the difference in these distances can range from minor to very significant. Many lenses have aspherical elements in them that correct for this - while your nominal focal distance may be set to, say, 50cm, the effective focal distance at the edge will be much longer - this is how you can take a shot of something flat and have the entire image in focus. However, underwater, we're not shooting a flat subject - the refraction of light as it passes from water, into glass or acrylic and then into air works as an additional lens element that produces a curved image, where edges are closer to your lens than the center even if the subject is actually flat. Fisheye lenses have no problems with that, but rectilinear lenses need to be stopped down, so that they have sufficient depth of field to fit both the center and the edges/corners into it. Sea & Sea Internal Correction Lens is what is called a field flattener, counteracting this effect to a limited extent, but even with that add-on, shooting wide-open in domes only works if you don't care about corners (for example, if you have only water in the background and the subject fits in the center of the frame). I use a Sony 10-18mm rectilinear lens on an A6300 camera behind an 8" dome, and I keep it at f/11 most of the time.
  3. 1 point
    I’m of the understanding that a BMPCC6K housing is in the works. (From a comment I read on FB). The BMPCC6K is truly an interesting camera, I’m shocked how much more resolution it has over 4K. It’s has been shown to be a good couple stops better in low light recovery (see the Cinema5D DR tests) than the BMPCC4K but overall they are very similar in colour and DR if the exposure is same - nothing I’ve seen to be night and day differences. I see a lot of people buying the 6K to replace their 4K, but end up selling on, as it seems 6K is massively data intensive, for the end results to end up back on 4K timelines and 4K deliveries to YouTube / Vimeo etc. Alas I actually feel for underwater and my type of shooting the m43 mount size is a better bet. Can make use of the detachable WWL1, given you amazing versatility uw, has greater DoF at the same aperture etc. Not sure why we are all going FF for video (thinking S1H and the like) as for documentary / wildlife style shooting, I really don’t want to be anywhere near f2 or shallower, have hard enough time getting focus now. Really haven’t used it my as much as I had hoped TBH. Paired with my Inferno. It’s a joy in the water. if I’m honest the GH5 is a much more rounded system for the hobbyist and I should of been happy to stick with that (and it’s why I’ve also kept it) but man I wanted a play with raw shooting :-) Any questions, fire away. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. 1 point
    Update: The Seacam Pro viewfinder is sold. Thanks Tom:) The Seacam Vacuum system is sold. Thanks Theo:) ian
  5. 1 point
    I was hoping to get a response from the OP about what went wrong......only knowing that five minutes out of 4h was good doesn't help me suggest a better camera for him, nor even to support his assumption that the problem was the camera. Could have been camera shake, lack of sufficient light, composition, etc, many things that won't change with a different camera. Getting a new stove doesn't make you a better cook, unless the problem was the stove.

Sponsors

Advertisements



  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
×
×
  • Create New...