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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/03/20 in Posts

  1. 1 point
    Hi Stuart, I think, it maybe a defected / broken unit. Why no. Everything can happened during the installation or transportation the product to dealer or etc. If you e-mail to manufacturer, they will send you the replacement the same day, no problem with it.
  2. 1 point
    The original premise of the post was m43 vs APS-C. The surface area of the sensors tell a lot of the story, m43 = 225mm2, APS-C 368mm2 compared to full frame at 860mm2 . You are looking at 1-2 stops benefit for full frame and it has over double the surface area compared to APS-C. it makes sense that the gap between APS-C and m43 would be significantly less than the gap between APS-C and full frame. When designing sensors and their readout noise the manufacturers can trade off between noise, dynamic range and other parameters. All of these parameters get smaller as ISO is increased. Underwater you have more trade offs to make, for example bigger sensors with dome ports present problems so you need to stop down more and if you have ambient light involved you are probably going to increase ISO to compensate so the dynamic range you gained is at least partly traded off as you increase ISO to compensate for stopping down. Macro with 100% strobe illumination is different of course but you are at base ISO more than likely and the Dynamic range/noise advantage while there is not going to provide to much benefit that is actually visible. I did a similar analysis to Interceptor121 when I bought my EM-1 MkII system, I could get the housing, camera and one port for the price of the housing alone for a Canon system. That along with the full range of excellent quality lenses and ports made the deal.
  3. 1 point
    Stopped in Ambon last October for a few days of diving after a LOB trip in the. Banda Sea. If you haven't dived Ambon it's well worth the stop as the macro life is wonderful and abundant. This was my second time visiting and diving with Critterjunkies. Here's the video of the underwater experience. Comments and critiques welcomed.
  4. 1 point
    I like back button focus assigned to my AEL/MF button (custom), assigned to both to use the rear trigger on my Nauticam for focus and front trigger for shutter only. I have Pre-AF (Screen 1, Page 6) turned off to conserve battery and potentially speed up AF. I have C1 set to AF mode and C2 to WL command toggle ON/OFF for my TTL trigger configuration. Power save time is set to two minutes but with the aux. battery installed (Nauticam) the display screen will always be on. My new camera is a A6400. What the world really needs is a camera with only Aperture, Shutter and Focus controls, all Manual all the time only, oh, and ISO. We purchase all of these AF, auto exposure driven cameras with 100 menus and sub menu options, all to get around or trick the camera into doing what we want it to instead of what it wants to via software. How about no software and no auto anything? Let me have control of my camera please, with FOUR controls. James
  5. 1 point
    My Inon UFL165AD lens had a hard cap. It had holes, prelocated, proably to vent air but I tied a piece of cave line though and used a plastic bolt snap so that I could remove the cap underwater and hook it to a d-ring. Then, upon boarding the boat, or an emergency where I needed to concentrate on something other than my camera, I could install the hard cap. Most of the times I have had a lens damaged it was due to the crew tossing my rig in the rinse tank after specifically instructing them not to and then the other cameras that landed on top of it damaged the port or lens or other similar on boat fiascos. Being able to install my hard cap is some insurance against that. James



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