Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/03/20 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    I have the 70mm back. Too bad 220 roll film is no longer made. Only 70mm B&W from Ilford. But there is the new digital back.... $$$$ Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
  2. 1 point
    For sure, Chris. Definitely not a procedure to do while on a crammed dive boat. Growing up, I was always fascinated by my dad's dive gear and cameras from the 60s. I used to dive in our pool whenever I could at 10 yo. I was certified at 14. On dive boats, that system would always draw a crowd. Lately my dad has been in the hospital following complications from hip surgery. He's 76 and can no longer dive. It was the activity we did most together. Many fond dive trips off Monetery and the Channel Islands. Shooting this system again is how I feel close to him. Every day dives I'll take my compact system, then take the Hasselblad on bigger trips off the coast, like the Channel Islands. I want to keep it going for as long as I can. Hopefully next year I'll be able to get the new digital back for them. Even if I get sick of it, I can still shoot the cameras on land. I'll only be out for the cost of servicing the housing. The strobes I will get for it can be used for an SLR. BTW, which housing do you have? Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
  3. 1 point
    I don't like fisheyes, so that would not be my recommendation. I was using a 14 - 42 plus a WWL-1 on a micro-4/3 camera and found that I didn't really need or want the WWL-1, so I took it off. Most of my video was probably in the 25 - 35 mm range. For whatever that's worth.
  4. 1 point
    I have used a pair of 250D strobes for 14 years and have the circuit mentioned in that box on p.24 in my housings, which use S6. I think the extra wire allows the left strobe to communicate to the right strobe. When I leave the right strobe on TTL it fires at whatever manual setting I set on the left strobe, not TTL. It is very handy to be able to manually change the power on both strobes with one switch. My guess is the extra wiring allows the left strobe to become the master of the right strobe. BTW, should you get one of the new 160D strobes it will arrive set for Nikon (as factory default). You have to change the setting to switch it to Canon. I know someone who is a Canon shooter and got his new strobe, set to Nikon, and thought the order was a mistake because he didn't read the manual through to learn about the ability to switch. I watched a very nice video from last year's DEMA on this site with Harald Hordosch describing all of the features of the 160D, which is where I learned about the feature. I admit I'm also not a manual reader. I am anxious to get my pair of 160Ds wet. They are an excellent product.
  5. 1 point
    Also happy with my Leak Sentinel detector. For a new installation, I would strongly recommend the V5 XB, for which the battery is located in the housing, which makes changing it much easier.
  6. 1 point
    I recall shooting f/11 with 70mm Ektachrome 200 Pro film - brings back memories especially the hassle of special ordering the film. Using one or two 150 W-S strobes. The whole rig with two strobes (EL housing) was quite the monster, around 50 pounds in air. On the plus side one can sync at 1/500 due to the leaf shutter.
  7. 1 point
    I guess the black one was added. Do you have a volt-ohm meter aka multimeter? You can use one to test the conductivity between the plugs and bulkheads.

Sponsors

Advertisements



  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
×
×
  • Create New...