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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/22/21 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Monterey, California. September 2020.
  2. 2 points
    I was lucky enough to be on a trip to Bali and Lembeh right before everything got locked down. We actually were on the last plane going from Singapore back to Germany... My first shot was taken in Bali. Second one was shot in Lembeh. PS: Is there anything that can be done about the upload size on Wetpixel. It really makes sharing images a bad experience and it's such a shame considering the effort we all put in to maximise image quality.
  3. 2 points
    Hi Chris, I will post the results here. I will receive YS-D3 after a week or so.
  4. 2 points
    No, it is not manual. UWTechnics TTL-Converters have electric TTL for sync cord, the same as optical TTL for fiber cable. Both connections work TTL. Of course for sync cord usage, user has to install an electric bulkhead on the housing. This is popular option.
  5. 1 point
    Very happy to see the return of this topic! My fave reflects my long-term salmon project that was influenced more by the weather that was excessively wet in 2020 and poor salmon runs than by covid. I took this shot during one of the few and short sunny spells in early July before any salmon had returned to this stream. I used a lens that I had used for this same purpose (juvenile salmon) but with film back in the 90s, the Nikonos RS 28mm. This was one of the lenses that Harald H brought with him to DEMA in '19 following the SEACAM mdification. I have used several other lenses for a similar purpose but was challenged by the nature of underwater optics. This lens has a much flatter field as well as being a sharper water-contact lens. Its small size also helped as the lens was not completely submerged due to the shallow water depth. Rocks on the bottom (get in the way) did not help either.
  6. 1 point
    I had only one dive trip in 2020, and I am grateful that it was a very good one to Raja Ampat on the Gaia liveaboard. Here are a couple of images from that trip. First is a nice fishy reefscape. 004_P1220113 by Erwin Poliakoff, on Flickr and here is a macro shot of a bubble coral shrimp 027_P1270240 bubble coral shrimp by Erwin Poliakoff, on Flickr
  7. 1 point
    I have only moving images. This sort movie summarizes well 2020 and the fact that I was restricted to dive "in the backyards", lakes and rivers in Germany. I entered this movie to the actioncup underwater video competition and won the action camera section:
  8. 1 point
    I guess YS-D3 must work TTL by wires normally. I don't see any problem for that. Officially, we did not test YS-D3 TTL by the sync cord yet, but plan to do it. If you can wait about a week, until we get YS-D3 for tests, we can supply you with the confirmed information. Let's be in contact by e-mail. YS-D3 does not have HSS. Only Retra strobes have HSS functionality. If you want HSS, you need "Retra Pro" strobes and UWTechnics TTL-Converter marked "HSS", those new boards have HSS updated firmware and hardware (available since August-2020).
  9. 1 point
    With the amount of trouble and expense you're going into to get the YS-D3s working, have you considered just selling them and getting something else? I have a pair of Retra Pros and they work flawlessly with the UWT trigger.
  10. 1 point
    I will be sending Stuart some home made cables from 613 and 1000 core fibers as well as some 3 mm fibers that have good transmission as well. Bill
  11. 1 point
    So the folder on my website is www.basilkiwan.com/Nature/Saba-Dive-Trip/ That was all shot with the LX100 II. I mostly shot wide angle, with many shots using the Nauticam WWL-1 on that trip. Take your time weighing out options, because it is an expensive purchase. Cameras that have more housing options are definitely more attractive, because your housing is likely to be more expensive than the camera. The LX100 II is good at macro, but the Sony RX100 line of cameras (probably the RX100 VII) has an advantage because of its longer focal length lens. When I want to shoot macro on the LX100 II, I use the standard port, and flip on the Nauticam CMC wet lens - that arrangement allows me to shoot tight macro, or flip the lens out of the way and shoot regular mid-range focal length portraits (though not wide angle). I find shooting macro challenging, because with a wet lens, I usually have to manually focus (autofocusing through a wet lens is difficult), and it is hard to manual focus when you are buffeted by currents. But that is more a limitation of me, as a photographer, than of the camera. If you go to interchangeable lens camera, (Sony, Olympus, Panasonic), you get the advantage of more flexible lens options. For example, with micro 4/3 cameras (Panasonic, Olympus), there is the excellent Olympus 60mm macro lens, and some of the zoom lenses in that class have decent macro modes. But generally, you have a larger rig (more ports, swapping lenses and ports between dives, etc..) That said, it is worth checking out housing options for any camera you might be interested - Nauticam, Ikelite, Isotta, Aquatica, AOI, Fantasea, etc... because some housings are definitely smaller than others. For macro specifically, the other advantage that both the Sony RX100 line and the LX100 line have is flash synch speed. Compact cameras have a leaf shutter - the shutter is built into the lens, not on top of the sensor. Interchangeable lens cameras (mirrorless and DSLRs) have a focal plane shutter. Typically a DSLR or mirrorless can synch with a flash or strobe at shutter speeds up to 1/200 or 1/250th of a second. If you go faster than that, you start getting this black band across your image - which is actually the panels of the shutter moving across the focal plane. Cameras with a leaf shutter do not have this limitation. The RX100 VII can synch up to 1/2000 of a second, I believe the LX100 II can synch with a flash or strobe up to 1/2000 or 1/4000 of a second. It add flexibility to your photography, particularly for macro photos, where you want to obscure the background. When you shoot with a strobe underwater (or on land), your shutter speed is controlling the ambient light. Your aperture is controlling depth of field. Your strobe is lighting your subject in the foreground. If you have a high shutter speed, you can "kill the ambient" - the background can be rendered almost black, while your subject in the foreground (say a little blenny) is light carefully by your strobe. It's not the only way to get that black background that isolates your subject your subject in the foreground, but it is an extra tool that you don't get with mirrorless or dslr cameras. That said, I have not used this very much (since I am typically shooting wide angle not macro), but it is something I want to try more of on my next dive trip.



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