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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/13/21 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Neither, actually - I was simply giving examples of respectable macro work done with tripods, then handheld, with non-IBIS prosumer camera setups similar to the ones commonly discussed here. This was intended as a follow-up to the discussion at a time where the possibilities and limitations of a tripod/vs IBIS were being discussed. You brought the holiday maker / resident videographer going-to-the-same-spot-1000 times distinction into the mix, so I was just noting that from what I understood Adamson is based in Utah, so doesn't really fall in the resident videographer but is, from what I understood, actually shooting skillfully, on regular, certainly dedicated but rather short trips. And also that as far as I know Nick Hope was and is based in Thailand, so doesn't really fall into the resident videographer category either for the Lembeh and other macro stuff that I'd posted - I may be wrong here, I admit I'm not sure what the background is here, but it doesn't really matter that much. Now I'm not arguing that these two are not professional - especially in Nick's case - and I certainly agree that they have way more experience filming/diving than a so-called occasional "holiday diver", but the reason I had brought these examples up is that they are both working with non-IBIS prosumer cameras / equipment and getting good, workeable results, both tripod and hand-held, which I don't fully agree can be solely attributed to being resident professionals somewhere and having more footage to choose from. Moving on from this, if I myself was considering equipement, I would certainly choose IBIS over non-IBIS if I had the choice, and wouldn't really consider any dedicated close-up work without some kind of support, tripod/tray or even monopod (if allowed, as you rightly mentioned, no-touch no-contact rules are indeed getting more common) , but also believe it is generally possible to get stable, workable shots without IBIS, even for a non-resident, amateur videographer, so would not be basing my choice solely on that criteria. This might become a question that I might actually face if and when the GH6 comes out and there are some second-hand GH5s rigs floating around, but until then it's a purely vicarious interest only I do also like the idea of a bulkier, well balanced neutral rig that you can push around, but doubt that I will ever get to get close to one of those, as would probalby rather buy a house in rural Japan for the same price. To end on a slightly tongue-in--ze-cheek note, maybe the solution to the IBIS/non-IBIS dilemna is simply.... the "underwater steadycam"??
  2. 1 point
    There are also other types of dives where carrying any additional gear, like a tripod, becomes tedious. For example long cave dives. My cave dives are max 3 hours, e.g. 1 kilometer in, 1 kilometer out. In addition to the bulk of gas cylinders, any additional drag with the camera gear does become taxing for the camera man. Luckily in team diving some of my mates understand this, and voluntarily might carry some of my stage tanks part of the way. In cave shooting, I mainly concentrate on shooting scenes on the go instead of static or panning shots. This brings an additionally source of instability: your swim kicks. I does help a lot to learn a perfect trim, also a perfect trim during the kicks, i.e. no "galloping" effect. But even with a perfect trim, you actually accelerate and decelerate with each of your kicks. If I have used image stabilization, I have noticed that it might falsely react to this acceleration/deceleration and create unnecessary IS action which shows as a superfluous wave type wobble. Thus I actually have turned off IS to avoid this. Lights on long arms do stabilize the camera set via their inertia. Also having a float/floats on top and heavier lights below your midline, will stabilize the set to some extent. However, whilst swimming, the floats and lights should be placed so that they create an equal amount of longitudinal drag/resistance for each swim kick. Otherwise your longitudinal kick will cause you set to tilt and lean during each kick. I have noticed that for critical shots, it might be better to change to a modified frog kick or modified flutter kick, which reduces the longitudinal acceleration/deceleration. Of course in tight spaces, this comes naturally. Another problem is that during long cave dives fatigue will affect your concentration resulting in unwanted movement in the footage. The video below is from a 3 hour long cave dive. This actually was shot during ten separate dives of 2-3h duration due to the complexity of setting up stage tanks en route etc. There is no stabilization on the 5DIII camera nor the 16-35mm lense. I do admit that some shots are far from perfect. But for me, the main content of the video is the "being there" mood. https://vimeo.com/176796652 https://vimeo.com/176796652 https://www.vimeo.com/176796652 PS. How do I embed a vimeo video into a posting?
  3. 1 point
    I also just found this thread. I wanted to chime in because I just bought the Olympus E-PL10 and AOI housing from Backscatter. I also bought the Panasonic 8mm fisheye and Olympus 60mm macro along with associated ports; backscatter did me a solid and got me an extension ring for the standard port for the 14-45 kit lens so that I could use the 60mm macro (its was like half the price as the dedicated 60mm port). I upgraded from the Sony RX100Va (in a fantasea line housing without any strobes) to the Olympus Epl10 kit. I am pairing it with dual backscatter mini flash 1 strobes. I have been on 3x dives with this kit and I have really liked the performance of the 60mm macro. My next few dives will be with the 8mm fisheye to see if I like CFWA or Macro better then I will focus on learning that skill set this year. I dont find the olympus menu system too confusing (i came from sony so anything is better). I find the camera easy to handle and straight forward to use. I really like that I can use back button focus (i couldnt use is on my sony rx). I am still learning how to use strobes, i havent done any strobe photography in the past. If you have any questions feel free to reach out. If you do any topside photography then you will also have access to the amazing line up of micro4/3 lenses.



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