Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/24/22 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    @Matt Sullivan Am I really going to disagree with you here? (maybe just a little a bit...) Also owning both and diving both, I think there is a difference between these two, but it's not super evident where you might notice this. For me, it's fairly evident when shooting larger subjects, like people or larger pelagics. It's a subtle difference, but it's there (at least to my eyes). Having said this, I'll travel with the WWL-1B often, however I only drag along the WACP-1 for special occasions.
  2. 1 point
    having owned and shot the wacp-1 and shot the wwl-1 for several months, if a lens could use both options, I'd not even consider the wacp-1 considering both size and price. I personally haven't seen anything compelling about the wacp over the wwl in terms of image quality, looking at images of mine side by side from both, good luck finding a difference. Perhaps wide open there is an advantage for the WACP but realistically, how often are the majority of us shooting wide angle at apertures that wide? This is not to dump on the WACP, it is a phenomenal optic, but is it worth 4 times the price of the wwl...well...
  3. 1 point
    So, here is the follow up to my post. I was able to get the required O-Rings from Ikelite for the battery packs. 0114 is the 2 on the toggle shaft 0128 is the larger one behind the switch 0136.04 is the very small one that goes behind the switch screw. Using some silicone grease I lubricated the O-Ring that goes behind the switch. They call this an X-Ring as it isn't round but has ridges to it like a gland. It is hard to see in the picture but you have to install the small plastic bar that engages the notches and makes for the clicks as you turn the switch. There is a little nub on it that should face in towards the shaft. Getting this to stay in while you install the knob can test your patience. One this was installed I rotated the switch a number of times to be sure I seated the X-Ring into position. Next up is the small O-ring that goes behind the screw that holds the knob on. This one was tricky and required a few tries. Once I would tighten the screw and look down in the hole I would see the O-ring had squeezed out around the screw head. It took a couple tries but I was able to get it all seated. Next up was installing new O-Rings onto the toggle lever shaft. Not too tricky. The final install requires you to put the cover plate over the back and then install the toggle. The cover plate needs to go on so that the toggle can still twist counter-clockwise. It will only fit one way. You then place the first spring on in the recess, followed by the first washer and then the second spring and second washer. The locking lugs go on last and you have to wiggle them around until it sits down over the keyed end of the toggle. Then the 1/4 nut goes on the end. You just have to work at this until it gets started and you can thread it on. Everything is all together and I just have to test them out in the water. You could do a test in a bucket of water but you would have to remove the plate to see if any water got in. Not sure if I will do this or just jump in the water and see how they do. If you have any questions feel free to ask. I'm no expert in this but I thought this might inspire someone who was on the fence.

Sponsors

Advertisements



  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
×
×
  • Create New...