Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/05/21 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    Insanely lucky to share the water with a blue whale on this year's marlin run in Mexico! We were very far offshore searching for marlins and baitballs when we spotted a spray of water. Assuming it was a humpback (they often frequent the area), we were surprised with the below... Photos below attached, and more at www.instagram.com/PiersGreatPerhaps ☺️
  2. 2 points
    For anyone who might run into this topic at a later time: If you are getting a strange issue with the flashgun then first please check if you are running the latest firmware. If you don't have automatic App updates enabled on your smartphone then go to the App store or the Google Play store to download the latest version of our Retra UWT App. In case the problem goes away with the latest firmware that's great, otherwise please write us an email with the basic description of the error and any specifics you think are relevant (mode, power level, pilot light, battery state, etc.). This will give us a direction and if necessary we will ask any additional questions that will help us understand the problem. We make it a priority to respond to any issues so please contact us if you need help resolving any.
  3. 2 points
    Good stuff and food for thought, thanks for posting it.
  4. 2 points
    For ref the port is still going strong and has been to 50M with no issue.
  5. 2 points
    Hi! I recall some of you being interested in images taken with the Nikon Z 14-30/4 used with the Sea & Sea 82 mm correction lens. I just came back from a trip to the Red Sea where I just this combination behind a 230 mm Zen dome. At least to start with, here are two images. Both are uncropped at 14 mm, ie as wide as it goes. The first one is at f/8: And the second at f/5.6: I'm aware these are very wide apertures but OTOH that makes it more interesting. Given the apertures and the short focal length - notably wider than the common 16 mm - I'm happy with the results.
  6. 2 points
    I recently got the same bag, and my experience pretty much mirrors yours. Stuffed to the brim with camera gear, lenses and batteries, weighing 15kg+, tossed at every security checkpoint, but no problem using it as a carry-on. As far as carrying it, I'm using the shoulder strap, slung across my chest, as a have a 25L dry backpack on my back. Very handy for rinsing the camera rig and dive gear after a day of diving as well.
  7. 2 points
    Like Tom I shot MF back in the film days but mostly above water. I would point out that back then I was shooting Pentax 6X7 and 645 formats. These films were much larger than 35mm film. Todays MF sensors do not have the same huge differences in size found with film so things like DOF differences are not as large. I have used both the PhaseOne and Hasselblad 50 to 65MP range backs underwater and the difference v. 35mm "full frame" is noticeable all things being equal. While wide lenses do require a larger 250mm v. 230mm port for best corners as suggested above wet lenses like the WACP-1/2 can be used to get between 109 to 140 degree AOV's. The new GFX-100S (102MP) is $6000.00 and uses a housing no bigger than many DSLR housings. Last you need to consider that most of the pro photographers that will be using these systems probably aren't Wetpixelers but non-U/W shooters that have a need for the very best image quality for advertising, fashion and so on. I did a workshop for Hasselblad Excursions in Grand Cayman a few years back and All of the eight students were on the commercial side shooting things like architecture and fashion with little or no U/W experience but all expressed a need for the ability to shoot some U/W work. All eight were also long time Hasselblad users with large investments in that glass. Attached is a photo using the Hasselblad 120mm macro an excellent lens that goes all the way to 1:2, the Fujifilm 120mm macro does the same 1:2. This results in an image that is about 87mm on the long side v. 36mm for 35mm "full frame".
  8. 2 points
    Most of the mineral (probably salt) deposit is on the metal hot shoe frame, which is the electrical ground for the camera's circuits. Fortunately, the 4 contacts are free of deposit. It may be that the hot shoe frame was a tad cooler then the ocean air and seawater vapor condensed on it. You have done us all a favor by posting this. The lesson is: when out on the water keep the camera in a bag or case except when shooting, and before putting it away, wipe it off with a dry cloth. (Later on, also remember to remove all equipment batteries before storing.)
  9. 2 points
    I had my best luck by choosing the eels that seemed the least skittish to start with, then habituating them slowly and holding my breath as long as possible.
  10. 2 points
    I shot medium format back in the day - Rollei and Hasselblad 2 1/4" square format. Main advantage was a larger negative for printing in the darkroom. Second advantage was 1/500second flash synch thanks to leaf shutter lenses. Main disadvantage was a very limited optical range - fixed lens but convenient swing-in close-up lenses with the Rolleimarin IV housing. This was also back in the day when everything (as well as most 35mm cameras such as Nikon F, F2, Canon F-1, etc.) was manual - focusing, exposure, film advance... But..... I hardly used them once the Nikonos RS came out - advantage optics for in-water use but still somewhat limited. Current FF cameras are at least as good as medium format film and likely better such as high ISO. Darkroom issues such as dust and scratches that were more magnified with 35mm compared to medium format are much reduced in digital so do not translate well to the present day. To get the most out of medium format film one had to use a tripod and or flash for most of ones work as one worked with far slower lenses and most lenses needed to be stopped down to be sharp across the field. This aspect of technique likely applies to digital medium format.
  11. 1 point
    Recently found out without an ear surgery I should no longer be diving so I have decided to sell my new gear I got in March of 2021 and has only been under water 5 times. Everything is in perfect condition and purchased from Reef Photo I have the gear for sale and the camera as separate. Firm on pricing. Contact me for more images. Asking: $7000 for gear and $3500 for camera and lens Housing items: 1 Nauticam 70x200mm Carbon Fiber Aluminum Float Arm (Buoyancy 370g, Lifetime Warranty) 1 Nauticam 125mm Double Ball Arm 1 Inon Z-330 Underwater Strobe 1 UW Technics 11075 Optical/Electrical TTL-Converter for Sony (Nauticam Housing NA-A7II, NA-A7RIII, NA-A9) 1 Nauticam Universal Optical Fiber Cable 3 Nauticam Standard Clamp 1 Nauticam Mounting Ball Adapter for Inon 1 Nauticam NA-a2020 Housing for Sony A9II/A7RIV Camera (with HDMI 2.0 support) 1 Nauticam SFE2860-Z Zoom Gear for Sony FE 28-60 F4-5.6 1 Nauticam N100 Flat Port 45 with Focus Knob 1 Sony FE 28-60mm f/4-5.6 Lens 1 Nauticam M14 Vacuum Valve II (Pushbutton Release) 1 Nauticam M67 Bayonet Mount Converter II 1 Nauticam Wet Wide Lens 1 (WWL-1) 130 deg. FOV with compatible 28mm Lenses 1 Nauticam 18cm Lanyard With 2 Snap Hooks 1 Cinebags Grouer bag 1 Think tank roller bag 8 Panasonic batteries with charger Total spent - 8283.00 Camera / Lens Sony FE 24-70mm f/2.8 GM Sony Alpha a7R IV Mirrorless
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    You are attempting the near-impossible here. I am not sure even the superdome will help you. Alex Mustard has been there and has pictures of it in his book: He used the 16-35 at 16mm (which will work much better in the superdome than the 14 especially if you have the Sea and Sea correction lens (there are threads on this already on Wetpixel)) for picture #13. He shot at ISO 1000 at f/13 at 1/50s. Note much smaller aperture than what you are trying to do as well as higher ISO. Picture #96 was done with the 16mm fisheye also ISO 1000 but at f/14 at 1/80s. Again small aperture was used. To use a larger aperture one would have to go with water contact optics which are rather costly. I recall Adam mentioning in one of the videos shooting the WACP-1 at a wide aperture in a dark tunnel.
  14. 1 point
    Hi Tom it is a full frame Nikon D850 these are 2 eksamples of my wife in Silfra Iceland, it was a grey and rainy day with very poor light, so I tryed with the flash at full power, iso 400, F8, s 1/60, and the other foto is flash 1/8, iso 400, F3,2 , s 1/50 of cause the one with F 3,2 have the worst corners but still they are not god in any of them, seen in the mirror, I shud have gone higher in iso, but on land I am not happy to go higher than 800 iso and its only one stop.
  15. 1 point
    Nikon d60 in aquatica housing. Housing and camera body $850usd plus shipping. Ports are available from varios retailers. Good condition My website has samples of what this housing does but i do use strobes https://reefscenics.smugmug.com/Underwater/Red-Sea
  16. 1 point
    I have had considerable experience with the UCL 165 including on full frame and I can assure all that the far better choice for FF would be the Inon UCL-90 which I have also used. I would say that Inon recommending the C/U lens for the Canon 6D has more to do with the fact that they build an X-2 housing for this their only FF DSLR housing.
  17. 1 point
    I use both the CMC-2 and SMC-1 on the Sony 90 mounted to an a6500. since its new (to me) I have yet to really dig into the SMC for 1-5mm subjects, but I have had great success with 4-20 mm subjects using the CMC-2 and 90mm. Autofocus is (in my opinion) relatively quick using the CMC-2. I have found neither to be particularly unwieldly. The Skeleton shrimp below is about as small as I would target with the 90/cmc-2 combo.
  18. 1 point
    Hey there I have a friend who is interested in getting a TG6 and housing. Let me reach out to her and see if she is interested. Ill try to get back to you ASAP.
  19. 1 point
    You can stack Subsee 5 and CMC-2 The result is almost as strong at CMC-1
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Aquatica housing with a large dome that usually he uses on the pana 8-18 mm
  23. 1 point
    seems like, but then wont be able to put a macro converter in front of the port either by the way i tried in the water so it didnt vignate on that setting
  24. 1 point
    Oh i see but when tou fully zoom with the 12 35, the lens gets 22 mm longer and i think when you film at 12 mm it will vignate with n85 ports because of that 22mm distance behind the glass..
  25. 1 point
    Hello Davide I attached 20 extension to my macro port 35 for the 14 42 and i put the 12 35 in it. It seems it is ok but no room at all for zooming . i hope not but may be it even touches to the glass of the port inside. I attached the wwl1 and took that picture from a video for you. This was taken from a 24 fps video This is taken on surface obviously but i havent tried underwater yet. I dont know may be when water comes between the port and wwl1 it magnifies and the vignetting dissapears a bit. By the way i dont live in a surrealistic home so my door and windows are actually straight
  26. 1 point
    I fiddled with Gorilla tripods, but found they just can't support a full-sized housing. And then of course if you're shooting anywhere other than the bottom, tripods aren't much help. That warbonnet shot was at night, 90' deep on a wall in BC which I was being pushed along by a decent current. The D500 has amazingly fast focus capabilities. Tripods have their places, especially for macro video, but I find I can get by with lots of light and a fairly fast shutter speed. Sadly, we need to also keep a small aperture to keep any sort of depth of field. All this to say, "if it was easy, everyone would be doing it!"
  27. 1 point
    Most macro lenses can give you 1x magnification - i.e. its closest focus point, the lens will fill your frame (on a Canon crop sensor) with a 22.4x15mm subject. A diopter will allow you go achieve more magnification, although its usefulness on shorter macro lenses such as 60mm is limited, as that it doesn't add magnification by itself, but rather allows you to focus closer. With your 60mm EF-S lens, Nauticam port chart claims maximum 1.6x magnification with either CMC-2 or SMC-1. If you get a 100mm macro lens, an SMC-1 will get you 2.6x magnification (filling the frame with an 8x5mm subject), and an SMC-2 will get you 4.3x (5x3mm subject), although this latter scenario is extremely difficult to operate - your depth of field is a fraction of a millimeter thick, so you pretty much need a tripod and a completely stationary subject. Basically, you put a diopter on a macro lens when you get into shooting sandgrain-sized critters that you need a magnifying glass to find in the first place.
  28. 1 point
    Hi Yazid, I'm actually just packing my gear to go away on Friday so I tried my setup for you. I have a D500 so should get similar results to your D850. My 1.4x is the Kenko Teleplus HD 1.4 DGX. The box states its for Nikon AFS G and AFS E type lenses. I've never used it with a macro underwater but testing it on land it focussed excellent with the 105mm AF-S but it kept fluttering with my 60mm AF-S and struggled to lock on with this lens. I checked the lens bare and it worked fine. I don't have a Sigma for Nikon but with my 8-15mm it works great Hope that helps a little - I was surprised with the 60mm result, but in reality I'd always use a bare 105mm over a 60mm with converter unless its a really specific shot that you needed that exact focal length for Mike
  29. 1 point
    Actually, that might work with a much shorter gauntlet and have the ring slide back over the gauntlet itself. Goint to pool test that. thank you. Joe
  30. 1 point
    Really interesting - love the typology of shots applied to the UW context. Thanks for working on this, it's really interesting (and rare!) to see someone going into the actual pratical grammar of underwater shooting. cheers!
  31. 1 point
    It is beginning to sound as if the camera is not sending a preflash. Maybe borrow a different make of camera, say a Canon or Nikon, to see if it works. Also check the strobe batteries, make sure they are new and fully charged.
  32. 1 point
    Just a guess but based only on shape I suspect a welk egg case. Below are a few pictures with a similar shape taken in Florida although they were much larger than yours so maybe from a much smaller species of welk.
  33. 1 point
    If you are not using any additional lighting (strobes/video lights) than a red filter would work well. Not sure what the port size is on the RX100 housing but keldan and magic filters are really good for underwater. Just make sure you get the ones for the actual depths you want to dive. They have darker versions for deeper depths. I added a link to a video I shot there last year. Cheers, John
  34. 1 point
    I service my Subal and Isotta housings myself, very easy to do. I use an inexpensive digital micrometer from Amazon or eBay, and a student compass and a metric ruler, to measure the O-rings, cross-section and inner diameter in mm, and buy them from The O-Ring Store https://www.theoringstore.com The buttons and other controls are easy to disassemble, but it is important to be real careful, put each part in a secure place such as a bottle, to prevent loss. However, Nauticam housings I would not recommend that one repair oneself, as they are much too complicated, expert repair is required. The repair expense is why I sold mine, and went back to Isotta and Subal housings, reliable, simple and rock solid.
  35. 1 point
    Addendum - contents of the bag: Sea & Sea housing for Nikon Z6/Z7 230 mm Zen dome port 40 mm extension ring Macro port Nikon Z6 Nikon Z7 Nikon 8-15 mm fisheye Nikon Z 14-30/4 Nikon Z 24-70/4 Nikon 105 mm macro (F-mount) Nikon Z 40/2 FTZ adapter Lots and lots of batteries, for strobes, camera and focus light Vacuum pump and some other small stuff Uh... the taxfree candy I couldn't fit in my shoulder bag The total weight of 15 kg or slightly more isn't terribly much to lift in itself but the design of the bag made it feel very heavy to carry when wandering the airports.
  36. 1 point
    Just a random anecdote: Very recently I made a trip to Egypt (Hurghada) from Sweden. We flew Pegasus, which IIRC is Turkish' budget/charter brand. Change of planes in Istanbul. For carry-on luggage I had a Cinebag CB70 Square Grouper, such as this one: https://fotografit.eu/products/284-cinebags/2340-cb70-square-grouper/ It was stuffed to the brim with camera equipment, weighing in total about 15 kg. I also had a small shoulder bag with laptop, e-book reader, travel documents and such. Before the trip I was nervous. Flying Pegasus was a last minute change and I feared the charter companies' stinginess with carry-on luggage. However, all went well. I never tried to hide the bag at check-in or the gate. It was chosen for special inspection at every single security checkpoint the entire trip, but only once was the weight remarked upon. ("It's very heavy" said the security person lifting it to the examination desk. "Yes!" I replied happily, beaming my best smile.) And it being chosen for inspection only stands to reason; must be impossible to see anything on x-ray with the bag packed as it was. I may have had good luck. But the bag isn't very big. Certainly looks smaller than many cabin bags. Had it been put on the scales at check-in by paragraph happy staff I would have been in trouble for sure, but this time it didn't happen.
  37. 1 point
    Think I solved this mystery..I was taking a look at the camera tray that screws onto the camera and it could not be any more loose. I bet dollars to donuts it was vibrating /rattling inside the housing, hence the constant motor sound..... Will leave this post up in case for some reason someone else doesn't thing to check the tray!
  38. 1 point
    Hi everyone, Before I spend more money for a possible not useful item, I would like to hear if anyone uses a hand strap for the housing. Below is a link for what will be for my housing. What will be useful for me is if holds the camera on my hand better while I fiddle between the focus button and the trigger button. I do not use the half press shutter button to focus so I have the thumb and index fingers occupied with buttons and unable to support the camera. Most often I need to other hand to support the housing. Also, I do not have big hands (XS gloves) Thank you! https://www.backscatter.com/Isotta-Hand-Strap-for-Mirrorless-SLR-Housings
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    I need to read up on that. I think I'll put a multimeter on the hotshoe with the camera turned off and see what gives.
  44. 1 point
    Phil Rudin may be referring to this article by Reef Photo: https://reefphoto.com/blogs/trending/how-good-are-the-current-strobes-for-light-intensity-and-coverage and this one, a bit older but still worthwhile: https://reefphoto.com/blogs/trending/why-it-might-be-time-to-upgrade-your-underwater-strobes Time to get a sandwich and a cup of coffee, plus a pen and notebook to better read and appreciate these articles. Thank you, Phil! And congratulations to Reef Photo for doing this useful and much appreciated hard work!
  45. 1 point
    I guess you'd use one if you really, really, really wanted a hundred megapixels and didn't care about the cost. You could sidestep the dome limitation by using a WACP-2. I mean, if you're dropping $10k on a body, $2600 on a lens and $17k on a housing, what's another $8500 for a port?
  46. 1 point
    Thank you all for the insights and for the leash advice - definitely don't want to drop a camera there..!
  47. 1 point
    last weekend we went dove the 'Flagpole' dive site in Hood canal, it is probably one of the best diving spot in that area, and behold, this easily wingspan 10 foot plus giant pacific octopus decided to come out of its den and say hi to us. absolutely once a life time experience for myself. shot on 1dx + retra strobs, WACP1 7-1 by Joe Hua, on Flickr 13-1 by Joe Hua, on Flickr 12-1 by Joe Hua, on Flickr 2-1 by Joe Hua, on Flickr 1-1 by Joe Hua, on Flickr
  48. 1 point
    When I started digital underwater photography I had already over two decades of shooting film under water. I mainly had to learn about the digital part (which alone was quite substantial) and had to gain some practical knowledge of dome ports as I had been using the Nikonos RS for preceding ~decade and thus did not have to worry about it. A new underwater photographer on the other hand is in a Catch-22 position. It is hard to know what to buy without having any experience. A new underwater photographer needs to set forth goals. What are the photographs going to be used for? What are the conditions (locations, seasons, depths, visibility, etc.) in which the photographs will be taken? What are the specific subjects that will be taken? Will any specialized underwater techniques be required to accomplish ones goals (a Catch-22 question so I a have left it to last)?
  49. 1 point
    Yes, I will send the whole setup including adapter, extension ring and dome.
  50. 1 point
    Some O-Ring Basics: O-rings are one of the modern marvels that make our diving possible. To live and work happily with them, and to replace them when needed, it helps to be familiar with four O-ring basics: material, hardness, cross-section and diameter. Material: Most Scuba O-rings are black or gray, made of nitrile rubber or Buna-N, an artificial rubber-like elastomer mixed with carbon black to provide wear resistance (just like automobile tires). To quote: “Nitrile / NBR: (Buna-N) is the most widely used elastomer due to its excellent resistance to petroleum products, operating temperature range (-40°F to +257°F) and one of the best performance-to-cost values. It's an ideal material for aerospace, automotive, propane and natural gas applications” and “is reasonably priced and features good resistance to petroleum oils, ozone, sunlight and oxygen aging, relatively low compression set, good resilience and outstanding physical toughness.” (1) It is for good reason that Duro 70 nitrile O-rings are the most common and considered the most reliable (2). Infrequently used in Scuba equipment are Yellow O-rings, made of nitrile rubber dyed yellow, and Blue O-rings made of fluoro-silicone which is of relatively low tear strength and limited abrasion resistance (1). While the equipment’s brochure may state one should only replace an expensive and hard to obtain O-ring with one of the same specifications, I have replaced both yellow and blue O-rings with standard black nitrile O-rings. This approach may appear to be expedient, but saves time and money, and has worked well for me. Slightly softer gray O-rings, such as used by Nauticam, I suspect are made of nitrile rubber with a lower content of carbon black. I have replaced them with standard Duro 70 rings as needed, no problem. 2. Hardness is expressed in Duro, or Shore-A, units. It “is measured based on the depth of indentation by a standard size and shape impacting gauge”(2). The hardness of most available nitrile black O-rings is Duro 70, these O-rings are considered the most reliable and are the most widely available. 3. Inner Diameter: The I.D. of an O-ring can conveniently be measured, vertically and horizontally, with a metric ruler. I then use a school compass with a thin black ink pen to draw a circle of that radius (half the I.D.) on white office paper. When overlaid on the circle, the O-ring’s inner edge should barely touch it (see photo). 4. Cross Section: A good way to measure the C.S. is with an electronic digital metric caliper, available from eBay or Amazon for a very reasonable price (see photo). -- The C.S. and I.D. can be used, for example, to replace a lost O-ring. First measure the width of its groove to estimate the cross section. The I.D. is estimated by the length of a string fit into the groove. The length in mm. is divided by Pi, 3.1416 to approximate its I.D. Confirm you have the correct size using test O-rings and check for leaks. The housing’s main O-ring for the back to front seal, for example, must be the same size as the groove it fits in. In contrast, for small fittings sometimes the factory size O-ring is a fraction smaller that the groove they fit onto. For example, my Subal port EXR-3 extension needed an O-ring. The groove width is a bit over 3 mm, with a diameter of 95 mm. I tested the following O-rings I.D.: 85, 88, 90, 93 and 95. Obviously, the 85 thru 93 O-rings were a bit small and had to be stretched. The 95 O ring was almost bit loose and it was difficult to mount the EXR extension in the housing, as the O-ring did not fit and got pinched. The best fit was a 90 mm I.D. O-ring. As Subal uses a 3 x 90 mm, they must have intended for the O ring to be a bit small for a good fit. It is useful to keep written notes, measurements and paper work, including drawn circles, for future use. I have used this approach to recondition housings by replacing the defective or old O-rings. Tools: The tools are basic, a school drawing compass with fine tip pen, metric ruler, digital micrometer caliper, paper and pencil. References: 1. https://www.applerubber.com/products/o-rings/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAj4biBRC-ARIsAA4WaFhcEIFvbNl1aGmLdJLxJJX5qBzfJ0sv64oVftPGT51RgDB1Apc2a3saAitFEALw_wcB 2. https://www.globaloring.com/durometer/ Some O-ring suppliers https://www.applerubber.com/material-selection-guide/ http://www.theoringstore.com/ O-ring background https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/O-ring ==

Sponsors

Advertisements



  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
×
×
  • Create New...