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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/26/20 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    The Zeus faber or John Dory is certainly one of the most representative fish of the Mediterranean mesophotic zone. The John Dory has a high laterally compressed body: it's so thin it can hardly be seen from the front. The large eyes at the front of the head provide it with the binocular vision and depth perception it needs to catch prey. It hides among gorgonians and catches prey by stalking it, then extending its jaw forward in a tube-like structure to suck the fish in. I am always hypnotized by the ability of this fish to advance while remaining with the body motionless while moving only the anal and dorsal fins with an infinite vibration. These two specimens were filmed on Giannutri Island at a depth of 75 meters (250 ft.). In the central clip (00:48) there are 3 other mesophotic citizens: A basket star (Astrospartus mediterraneus) , a melon sea urchin (Echinus melo) and some colonies of red coral (Corallium rubrum). ------------------------------------------------------ Audio track: Antigravity 2 by Dan Skinner & Adam Skinner - via Audio Network Cover photo: Marco Bartolomucci
  2. 2 points
  3. 2 points
    I recently got into 3d printing and cad design. I printed some dome port protectors and gears out of flexible nylon. Also printed some rings to cover the lens info that can reflect off a port.
  4. 2 points
    last weekend we went dove the 'Flagpole' dive site in Hood canal, it is probably one of the best diving spot in that area, and behold, this easily wingspan 10 foot plus giant pacific octopus decided to come out of its den and say hi to us. absolutely once a life time experience for myself. shot on 1dx + retra strobs, WACP1 7-1 by Joe Hua, on Flickr 13-1 by Joe Hua, on Flickr 12-1 by Joe Hua, on Flickr 2-1 by Joe Hua, on Flickr 1-1 by Joe Hua, on Flickr
  5. 2 points
    Having endured here in the Philippines the longest and strictest lockdown in the world, this has been my mood for longer than I thought I could endure: So when the restrictions on travel between provinces was lifted, my wife and I drove out of Manila to Anilao for a long weekend with a feeling of being able to breathe again, although we did feel sort of uncertain and tentative and cautious, a little like this porcelain crab: We only got in a couple of dives thanks to unfavorable weather, but just being back in the water at familiar sites felt like visiting some old friends. My technique was certainly rusty so none of the pictures I took over the weekend will make it into my top 100, but they will remain among my most favorite for what they represented for us, a lifting of a very long gloomy period. We're a long way from an exit, but are so grateful to be so fortunate to be able to drive to such a special place until the new normal becomes clear. Even the heavens seemed to agree with us on Saturday night. I hope things start to get better for all of us sooner rather than later!
  6. 2 points
    Interesting article on one of my favorite non-scuba related sites. Enjoy! http://www.openculture.com/2020/09/the-first-underwater-portrait-in-the-history-of-photography-circa-1899.html Kind regards, Ajay.
  7. 2 points
    I've done a couple of Guadalupe trips. During the first trip (2016), I used my Nikon 10-24mm (rectilinear) and it worked very nicely. It's probably worth noting that, I spent considerable time hanging outside the cage during that first trip. I'm small so it was easy for me to slide through the viewing opening on the cage and keep one leg wrapped around the inside to retreat back inside if necessary. One large male did give me the 'staring into the Jaws of Death' experience near the end of our last day during that trip when he made a run to try to pick me off the side of the cage. I simply slid back inside to get out of his way. It happened so quickly that I didn't even give it much thought until I was reviewing and post-processing images. I didn't feel like I needed my strobes during the first trip. The curved field of view that a fisheye creates isn't something I care for; mine never came out of my gear bag. As I prepared for my second trip, I added a Nikon 16-85mm to my camera bag. I felt like I had missed a lot of opportunities during my first trip because the 10-24mm didn't give me enough reach. Sometimes you have sharks that drop-by for close passes and others don't come in as close. The second trip (2017) was good. I was happy with the 16-85mm and I used my strobes during some of my cage time. White sharks have blue eyes and it's difficult to get the color unless you can light them up. One of the frustrations I encountered at Guadalupe was the screen of mackerel that take up residence under anchored boats. It was extremely difficult during both trips to capture decent images of the sharks with the number of mackerel that show-up. Another minor irritation was the people who had their Gopro cameras on long sticks. I missed more than one opportunity for great image captures because a Gopro on a stick would appear in my viewfinder as sharks would come in close. Of course, this is one of those give & take things. Other divers are there to capture images and video too. Some of those folks were probably silently cursing the nut job who kept climbing outside the cage to pursue the images he was after. Do plan to wear what you need to stay warm. Sometimes you have to wait long periods of time before a sharks decides to drop-by. It can get chilly if you don't have enough wetsuit. If you're interested in looking at some images from my trips, check out the portfolio on my website www.cortezbluephotography.com. -AZTinman
  8. 2 points
    AFAIK, the only strobes currently on the market that offer HSS capability are: SeaCam SeaFlash 60D and 160D - strobes can be triggered by sync cords or fiber optics, but HSS is available only when using sync cords, only with Canon and Nikon cameras, and Canon/Nikon support is strobe model-specific - i.e. there's an SKU that works with Canon, and another SKU that works with Nikon. On the upside, HSS is available in TTL and manual modes. Retra Prime and Retra Pro - fiber optic triggering only, HSS is available only in manual mode, requires an LED trigger board in the housing to supply the proper triggering signal. UWTechnics and TRT Electronics have triggers compatible with Canon, Nikon, Sony, Panasonic and Olympus cameras (separate SKUs for each manufacturer as they have different flash communication protocls); UWTechnics triggers are shaped to fit a specific housing, whereas TRT triggers are generic boxes that fit most housings.
  9. 2 points
    Adam: I see. Yes, I had to remove the rubber ring but have not had any problem with the tape failing (yet). The rubber ring stays off since the lens is only used underwater. Based on your comments, I put a strip of gaffer tape over the existing tape. It fit quite well and should keep things together. Thank you for explaining.
  10. 2 points
    I guess I don't really have anything to say that hasn't been said, but nevertheless.... A couple years ago I moved from MFT to a D500. Using the right extension rings I can use 8-15 Nikkor or 10-17 Tokina, and 60 macro, all with or without a teleconverter, as well as the 105 macro, using a 100 or 140 dome and a macro port. On occasion I will take a 180 dome, although only rarely. I enjoy using the D500 much more than the MFT and get a much higher number of "keeper" shots with it. I would be unwilling to travel with anything larger or with any domes larger than the 180 (well, maybe a 200?) and when lugging the stuff around I miss the MFT, but once at my destination I could not be happier. I use a Nauticam housing and am happy with it, but have never tried any other brand so cannot compare. I have also found a "luggage" solution that seems to work pretty well for me so far. We will all go to (or back to) mirrorless at some point, but for underwater use, we are not there yet and I think it will be at least a few years and by then the lens selection and body selection will be completely different than it is now.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    I have always taken photos and video before the underwater but with covid-19 I have gone to shoot much more on land out of cancelled diving trips and other trips Majority of us have a fisheye and a macro lens and some have also a mid zoom. Unfortunately underwater imaging is not relying on fast lenses so most of your traditional photography is not matching the equipment, besides with covid-19 travel restrictions make it harder to go around and shoot landscapes So what can you do if you have a macro lens and a wide angle lens? One interesting option are star trails that unless you are in the centre of a very bright city are possible almost anywhere from your backyard. A fast wide angle not too wide is preferred but you can even get by with fisheye Home Sweet Home by Interceptor121, on Flickr Macro gives you access to flowers or bugs You can also use macro lenses for abstract I hope this is inspiring those that are stuck at home and have their equipment collecting dust to try something new
  13. 1 point
    Thank you two, had not been so lucky, so some floodings during the years... And thoughts that are not 100% on your line... My first was a S&S DX1 on my first asia trip. Third day of 3 weeks.... My fault, catched the secure ribbon of the front cap between oring and back door... Exact behind the lock buckle... Didn see it, murphy was on board, was a dive there you had to swim 10 minutes from boat to site, national park... When i started decenting, i saw it, small bubbles inside, so much too late... Did the dive, as soon as back on the boat rinsed everything in sweet water, but much too late. So back in the hotel, i through everything in sweetwater again, but camera was gone, battery corroded and it was 2008, no laptop or storage device with us, the 2 days before gone... Somehow i keept the SD card, and back home, it was dead. But it was laying in the shelf, and after 8 or 9 months, mistakly was used again. And there were pics on it. More the 90& were ok! So as Alex said, keep your dead gear and keep trying!!! As a Hugyfot user of the older generations, using one of the first Nikon D300 housing, i had 3 floods. One was a broken snap ring, during a dive, again 3rd day, in Thailand, during the dive suddenly one of the buttons came out... Catched it, and pressed my thumb on the hole until the end of the dive .... The button i put in a jacket pocket with zipper, was easy to repair afterwards at home. Was only a minor water entry, but because i kept the camera horizontal, it was too much.. Some water came to the card slot, and it quitted working. All camera was ok, but no card accepted... Dont ask... So, thank Alex for that, will help! The two others have been a construction issue of Hugyfot, that ended in introducing vaccum systems. The old housing generation was desinged to be a front and back part, holded together with two screws. No snap locks like other companies, only two screws with an allen key. What was great, because the housing was round shaped and so easy to hold... No unwiedly edges where you hold it. Backside was, that both times it was the second dive of the day, on boats, so my idea was that the temperature difference and the boat shaking startet loosing the screws... And thats the point against Alex theory, the problem appeared at the end of the dive. Starting was easy, everything worked fine. At the end of the dive, last meter to surface, after the safety stop, suddenly a curtain of bubbles came out of the seal area on top. Pressure that keept the two housing parts together was lost. So getting up was important, but with a dslr rigg, and not much air in the jacket because you want to be slow, it was a kicking event, until another diver came close enought to blew up my jacket. and as Alex said, keep the port downside. It was once a wide angle, these ports can take a lot of water, and the other was a macro, but with my Nikon 70 to 180mm micro zoom. There is some space to the port from the front element, since it is a old lens that neds it... Both times no losses. After that i thought about leaving Hugyfot, 3 times issues is not the best recommandation, and i got a new camera, Nikon D500, and from that model they changed to snap locks... But from history, the brought vaccum systems on the market, simply because they had a construction problem... So there couldbe a lot of different problems, its only important to know how to deal with them! And thanks for explaining that very good! So wish you allways a dry housing, Wolfgang
  14. 1 point
    Male cuttlefish can evaluate the likelihood of winning a fight by assessing their competition, according to a new study... Nikon D7000 f/8, 1/250, 7mm, ISO 250 Housing Nauticam
  15. 1 point
    Hi, I recently got an AO Cooler bag: https://aocoolers.com/24-pack-carbon-cooler-black.html I got the black carbon model because it is very water repellent and dries really quickly. I typically just hose it down at the end of the day, then wipe it down dry. Salt seems to just slide off, did not notice any salt build up on the zippers. Used it for about 3 weeks out on fieldwork for my camera system. It worked well on the boat. For travel what I did was I bought a camera bag insert: https://fstopgear.com/products/icu/pro-icu-large So the cooler serves double duty as my camera bag during travel. I typically arrive at my destination and i can just pull out the camera insert and all my stuff is there. That camera insert stays in the hotel room nice and dry. Then I assemble my camera and just drop it in cooler bag and that serves as my wet bag which i can take onto the boat. Hope it helps Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. 1 point
    @oneyellowtang No doubt that such technology can offer benefits not achievable otherwise. Where I work, we have access to devices with EVF’s that outperform what todays cameras offer and yet for certain applications, the OVF continues to handily outperform the EVF counterpart. There are needs for both. As for AI augmentation, there is a company with an EVF binocular that in theory could load data for say birds, such that on top of presenting you an image of the subject, it will also provide an identification. Is that the future of birding? I certainly hope not and I’m not even a birder. I too grab my kindle when I’m heading out on travel but when I have the time to read at home, I still prefer by far and away to read from a book. There are numerous studies indicating that comprehension and retention are higher when reading from printed pages than from a device. So while I love technology, I do realize that it has limitations as well and when it comes to more ‘artistic’ endeavors, technology can be a double edged sword. AI sky replacement in some of today’s photo editing software is becoming quite believable but I’d personally never use it and ‘look down’ upon its use. So while ‘change is inevitable’, we must realize that it is not always for the better. However, I’m not trying to change anyone else’s opinions just offering my view.
  17. 1 point
    shot on Night dive at Edmond underwater park, Nauticam 1dx + 28-70mm( WACP1) Spotted ratfish/Chimera is one of my favorite fish, they are generally a deep water fish hanging out around 500-3000 feet, but on some west coast of US and part of europe they come up to the shallow depth , which is quite a rare treat. spotted ratfish by Joe Hua, on Flickr ratfish1-1 by Joe Hua, on Flickr
  18. 1 point
    Wow beautiful shots. Very clear, colorful with nice lighting. Well done!
  19. 1 point
    Great photos. Now following you on Flickr too. Particularly interested in images taken with the wacp-1. Please post many more, thanks. Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    Good catch! Forgot about flashbulbs! The 38mm lens is only f/4.5 so you do not have to stop down much from maximum aperture to reach f/5.6 or f/8! You will have to do some trial and error. The bigger deal is having to estimate the focus distance so it will be a bit like shooting an old Nikonos. The H38 housing had a focusing scale on the focus knob.
  22. 1 point
    Very few Bird In Flight photos are taken underwater. I do a lot of bird photography myself and there is a big difference in the amount of available light. Even a cloudy day will have a lot more light to assist focus than in often available underwater. It's is the low light autofocus capability that really distinguishes DSLRs like the D850 or D500. Also note that most camera & lens development is optimized and tested with photographers shooting birds and such above water. I would venture to guess that very little engineering is done to optimize for underwater shooting.
  23. 1 point
    Try swapping batteries to rule-out that possibility and see if the results are replicated.
  24. 1 point
    I use a pair of YS-01 strobes now on a Nikon (w/flash trigger) and previously on the same Sony (via nauticam). With the Sony, I would use the TTL setting on the strobes, though to my recollection the strobes never actually fired in TTL mode (red light, not green) but full-dumped except as adjusted on the strobe output dial. I always had flash compensation at zero. It's worth noting that in the three YS-01 strobes I've owned, they've all had... peculiarities. One didn't propogate signal to a secondary. Another doesn't fire beneath 3/4 power (the dial is broken?). Yet another won't turn on unless I "bump" it after inserting batteries. And they're all *very* sensitive to the cable used for LED triggers.
  25. 1 point
    The idea that lens options are limited is a bit of a false narrative, I have used all of these cameras, including the Z6 and the EOS R cameras all with adapted fisheye lenses. With the proper adapter all work as well as they do on native DSLR cameras. I don't see DSLR users complaining about the Nikonos RS 13mm fisheye or after market fisheyes being used on DSLR's. The facts are that the Sony mirrorless cameras have a wide range of lenses suited to U/W work. Wet wide optics like WACP and WACP II can also be used with these cameras just as they are with DSLRs'. If you own Canon lenses like the 8-15mm fisheye zoom and macros these can also be used with the Sony cameras. Nikon DSLR lenses can also be used on the Z-cameras with a Nikon adapter. Currently auto focus Is outstanding on the A7R IV with Canon EOS R cameras running second and Nikon Z cameras running third. I realize that native lenses would be the best investment but the upsides of 21 century tech out weights the the downsides of 20th century tech and its is only going to get better. You can checkout my reviews on many of these cameras and lenses in the back issues of uwpmag.com.
  26. 1 point
    Before you buy a Sea & Sea housing for a Nikon D200, you might want to check on the availability of O-rings for the housing. I've got a couple of Sea & Sea D300 housings and it's very difficult to find O-rings for them. Evidently, Sea & Sea stopped making the O-rings for D300 housings. A housing for a D200 is older than my D300 housings. -Tinman
  27. 1 point
    You can go on Peter website. uwpmag.com it does have a basic search function
  28. 1 point
    Hi there, stumbled on this thread and thought I'd revive it now that the sIII is close to fruition. Make any final decisions yet? A couple of thoughts. I've had great luck with the adapted Canon 8-15 on my rIII and rIV, I think you'll be happy with it. Another good option would be either of the 12-24 lenses for your splits. The G version is 20 oz and is great with the exception of flare resistance. The new GM is quite a bit more, and weighs 30oz but fixes the flare issue. I shoot with the 16-35gm underwater and frequently for splits and am really happy with it. That's a good choice as well. A lot of folks suggest the WACP and of course the new one is out as well, but those things are super heavy. I'd expect you'd not enjoy hauling it around. I don't know anything about how to make it work for splits. Finally, you did mention size is an issue but nothing beats a big dome for splits with a nice thin waterline. Matty Smith in Australia makes custom acrylic domes, they are pretty awesome. He does a 12" that really would be amazing for the splits. It's not super heavy because it's acrylic, but it is large and kind of a pain to pack. I've been using one for my Aquatech housing for a couple of years and really enjoy the shots from it. I'm picking up a Nauticam here and will spring for his 17" for that housing. Best of luck with it, hope the housing comes soon! Lyle
  29. 1 point
    For sure, Chris. Definitely not a procedure to do while on a crammed dive boat. Growing up, I was always fascinated by my dad's dive gear and cameras from the 60s. I used to dive in our pool whenever I could at 10 yo. I was certified at 14. On dive boats, that system would always draw a crowd. Lately my dad has been in the hospital following complications from hip surgery. He's 76 and can no longer dive. It was the activity we did most together. Many fond dive trips off Monetery and the Channel Islands. Shooting this system again is how I feel close to him. Every day dives I'll take my compact system, then take the Hasselblad on bigger trips off the coast, like the Channel Islands. I want to keep it going for as long as I can. Hopefully next year I'll be able to get the new digital back for them. Even if I get sick of it, I can still shoot the cameras on land. I'll only be out for the cost of servicing the housing. The strobes I will get for it can be used for an SLR. BTW, which housing do you have? Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
  30. 1 point
    I don't like fisheyes, so that would not be my recommendation. I was using a 14 - 42 plus a WWL-1 on a micro-4/3 camera and found that I didn't really need or want the WWL-1, so I took it off. Most of my video was probably in the 25 - 35 mm range. For whatever that's worth.
  31. 1 point
    I have used a pair of 250D strobes for 14 years and have the circuit mentioned in that box on p.24 in my housings, which use S6. I think the extra wire allows the left strobe to communicate to the right strobe. When I leave the right strobe on TTL it fires at whatever manual setting I set on the left strobe, not TTL. It is very handy to be able to manually change the power on both strobes with one switch. My guess is the extra wiring allows the left strobe to become the master of the right strobe. BTW, should you get one of the new 160D strobes it will arrive set for Nikon (as factory default). You have to change the setting to switch it to Canon. I know someone who is a Canon shooter and got his new strobe, set to Nikon, and thought the order was a mistake because he didn't read the manual through to learn about the ability to switch. I watched a very nice video from last year's DEMA on this site with Harald Hordosch describing all of the features of the 160D, which is where I learned about the feature. I admit I'm also not a manual reader. I am anxious to get my pair of 160Ds wet. They are an excellent product.
  32. 1 point
    I recall shooting f/11 with 70mm Ektachrome 200 Pro film - brings back memories especially the hassle of special ordering the film. Using one or two 150 W-S strobes. The whole rig with two strobes (EL housing) was quite the monster, around 50 pounds in air. On the plus side one can sync at 1/500 due to the leaf shutter.
  33. 1 point
    I'll post pics shortly. Stay tuned. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
  34. 1 point
    I used the Subsea strobes as well as the Ike 150 back in the day with my Hasselblad system and used the EO plug on the housing (for the EL). These were 150 watt-second units. EO is a bit out of fashion with current strobes. Better off adapting to a bulkhead or fiber optic. With the blue housings it may be possible to swap out bulkheads - possibly a reduction fitting will have to be added as those old bulkheads appear to have used a larger diameter hole than the 14mm being used these days. I would be interested in knowing if Devon can do this.
  35. 1 point
    I use the Nauticam M67 Bayonet II adapter (part 83250): https://www.nauticam.com/products/m67-to-bayonet-converter-ii The reason for not changing mid-dive is size/weight and because I can zoom in with the WWL-C in place (but not true macro). Once you remove it, you have to store it somewhere and hope either the front or rear glass won't get scratched. You could install one of those lens holders on an arm I guess, but it is a pretty heavy piece of equipment. Most of my dives are wrecks and so I dive with the intent of shooting wide angle. If I see the occasional wolf eel or other cool creature, I just zoom in and take the pic. Will it be perfect? Nah, but I'm not shooting for the cover of a magazine either. In terms of aperture, I'm still experimenting. Again, since a lot of my shots involve water or sand around the primary subject, it doesn't matter as much. Also, in Southern California on deep wrecks, I need all the help I can get in terms of light. My general methodology has been: 1. Shoot natural light shots of the overall wreck with a wider open aperture just knowing the corners might be soft but also that they are generally water or sand 2. Shoot closer up features with a light (strobe or video) and close down the aperture. Below is a picture of a turbo supercharger on a P-38 that I shot earlier this week in San Diego. It is 1/80th, f6.3, ISO 1600. You can see that the corners aren't perfect - but my real "focus" is on the supercharger so I don't really care so much. I actually had to stop down the exposure in LR by a full stop. So, in reality, I should have stopped down f8 when I shot the picture. Still learning. This week I've got my Sony a6400 ready to go so I'll be shooting with the WWL-C on that rig instead and we'll see how it works.
  36. 1 point
    Thank you all for the recommendations much appreciated. We have decided to stay near Olbia close to a beautiful stretch of sand called 'La Cinta'. This is a 15min drive to dive centres that take you to AMP Tavolara which I thought looked like a nice place to dive after seeing a few pictures taken there - glad to have this confirmed @Alex_Mustard (I did actually watch that video a few days ago, in fact, I watch all of them, very valuable for a novice like me.) I have a small Sony Rx100v4 compact setup with a Nauticam WWL-1 + CMC-1 but I am really looking forward to this trip as it will be the first time I will be taking 2x Inon Z240 strobes, will see how it goes... Cheers Igor
  37. 1 point
    +1 for the Vivid. Used it almost from its inception. Great bit of kit and phenomenal service from Miso
  38. 1 point
    Lewis88, I have a LS Ver 4 which I believe is a different configuration than the V 5. Email Miso and he'll get you the correct info. To add to Kraken's excellent write up, my opinion is that the LS will best detect a small leak due to the pressure change prior to the start of a dive assuming that you allow it a few minutes. As I recall with the V4, it takes about a reduction of absolute pressure of 0.1 ata to change the light from blinking red to solid green as you pump down. Then an increase in absolute pressure of about 0.05 ata to cause the light to flash red indicating a leak. Miso gave me these numbers some years ago, so this is from memory. Depending on the volume of your housing, dome, etc., amount of air (or water) required to trip the red LS alarm can be significant. So I feel that the LS 4 (or any similar vacuum system) is best used for predive leak check allowing a good amount of time after pumping down the housing. Usually I prepare my housing the night before and allow lots of time under the vacuum. If I have to open the housing midday, I try to allow at least 15 and preferably 30 minutes after getting the solid green. Once in the water, I mostly rely on the internal leak detector as a drop or two of salt water (or condensation) will trigger it giving you a chance to save your camera, etc. Far less water will trigger the leak detector than will trigger the red light on the LS4 IMO. If you ever get the leak alarm UW, immediately point your port straight down and hold that position until out of the water and able to open your housing. That way the water should accumulate in the port. If it's a small amount of water, you may be able to save your camera, etc. Also I am a big proponent of the LS system. Miso has a real winner in his design and support. I would suggest that you buy directly from Miso. He ships promptly. It took about a week to get my LS from him. I'm in the states. Harry
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    Awesome - thank you both!! I had a small hunch they looked similar, but had no idea if they actually were the same filter setup.
  41. 1 point
    Agree with Tom, it's the same filter that came in a set with the 16mm fisheye. They are readily available on Ebay if you search under the 16mm Fisheye. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nikon-L37C-Bayonet-Filter-AI-AF-Fisheye-Nikkor-16mm-f-2-8D-AI-Nikkor-15mm-F3-5S/273515796417?epid=1840600782&hash=item3faecfd7c1:g:ytgAAOSwB9Fbyf1y One of the ones (L37c) in the set is clear glass, and you can cut a small circle of Alex's Magic Filter and place it on the back of the glass. I attached mine with a TINY drop of lacquer at the 12 and 6 o'clock position and it works like, well, Magic:)
  42. 1 point
    Hello: Your best bet is the Vivid Leak Sentinel, with the electric vacuum pump. I have three Model 5 Leak Sentinels installed in my housings and they work great. I use the electric vacuum pump. Using them has saved me from some bad leaks. I highly recommend them. Cheers, Elias. https://www.vividhousings.com/leak-sentinel.php#:~:text=LEAK SENTINEL V4 - pre dive,detector for any uw housing!&text=The housing is closed 15,starts blinking%2C indicating ambient pressure.&text=Green LED blinking indicates that,leakage (safe to dive).
  43. 1 point
    Nauticam NA-D300s housing in excellent condition. It was used 2 dives in the pool, for lens tests. After that, it lay in the box. Housing condition is "like new". There are no any tracks of usage. Complete housing kit, including spare o-rings, tools, box and documents. Price = 500 USD. Payment: PayPal. Delivery: EMS, UPS, DHL.
  44. 1 point
    No strobes allowed when shooting manatees! This was with my 7D Mark II.
  45. 1 point
    That is really cool - great shot! My first dives were at Edmonds, a very long time ago. But 30 years in the tropics have spoiled me. This might tempt me back.
  46. 1 point
    What Dave Hicks says makes perfect sense and fully agrees with my experience. My commercial fiber optic cables were expensive, delicate, and would break or catch their coil on something and get lost in the middle of a dive. For the past 8 years or so I have made my own with Toslink cable, at a cost of under $5 per pair. For security during a dive, I thread the cables through the strobe ball arms, to keep them from getting lost. I also carry spares as they are feather weight. Toslink cables from Amazon or eBay, 3 to 4 mm o.d., have fired the strobes every time with several makes of cameras and housings and 4 models of Inon and 5 of Sea&Sea strobes. https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/60564-diy-fiber-optic-writeup-with-parts/
  47. 1 point
    Cause I’m using the GH5s which lacks IBIS, I had to come up with a way to balance my rig to to make it feel like a traditional video cam rather than the DSLR restricted position. This setup up helps me avoid all types of roll, pitch and yow. It is not a final setup up but it is so balanced that I can let go of the camera midwater and it will just stay there :). I rely totally on the external monitor for all my needs: exposure/focus etc... I can adjust the camera vertically (lookup/down) by adjusting the DIY floors position.
  48. 1 point
    Very lightly used, was my backup rig. Few saltwater, few freshwater dives, cleaned and stored in ac for most of its life. Lens is old and works fine. Has a flood sensor. Will include a single strobe cable, might be able to find a dual sync cable but if so, it will be little used, not as pristine as the camera and housing. $1000 shipped in us
  49. 1 point
    Subal D30 housing for Nikon D300. Included: Subal housing (I purchased second hand and used on one trip-no leaks of any kind), Subal Type 4 FP-90 flat port, D300 camera, Nikon 60mm AF micro F2.8. The housing has the Subal 180degree magnified viewfinder. The 60mm lens and the FP-90 Port were purchased BRAND NEW and used on one trip, maybe 15 dives in total. Selling as I set this up to have a dedicated macro rig in the water at all times and it just was too much to tote around. Loved the setup but overkill for me. Not looking to get a lot out of it but considering replacement cost on the viewfinder alone am asking $1000 plus shipping for everything.
  50. 1 point
    Welcome to Wetpixel (even I am not the moderator), The famous Tony Wu is from Singapore if I have not mistaken, he is one of the best in the business ... http://www.flickr.com/photos/tonywublog/



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