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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/23/21 in Posts

  1. 5 points
    Hi, in November I have been on a liveaboard in the south of the Red Sea, afterwards i went diving from land for a week. With the necessary patience, I was able to film a lot of natural behavior. Enjoy watching! Alex,
  2. 3 points
    BTW, All shot in ambient light with red filter 10bit, 400 bps using standard profile. You can really push the footage.
  3. 3 points
  4. 2 points
    I am currently shooting underwater with the R5 and shoot 8K RAW when I feel I might need more flexibility in post – particularly for white balance. But in most situations I also prefer shooting at 60 fps... and lose that option at 8K. It would be great to have the option to shoot 5K RAW at 60 fps (added bonus: smaller file size) – that's the only advantage the R5c has that I find interesting. Was also hoping the size difference was going to be small enough I might fit the R5c in an R5 housing – but that's clearly never going to happen.
  5. 2 points
    I would add for those considering buying these strobes new that the current Z-330 type II has two upgrades. first the Fly-eye coating which only covers the flash tubes on the Z-330 now covers the entire dome on type II creating a much softer light over the entire coverage area and eliminates some of the need for defusers while retaining the full power output. Second the Z-330 shade is black and does not reflect light well while the type-II model has a reflective coating. The Dive Photo Guide article posted above demonstrates the usefulness in some macro situations and I would agree that if you are shooting wide lenses near a reflective bottom that much of the light can be diverted from blowing out highlights. The downside is that if you want to remove the shades as Adam suggested do it as soon as you get the strobes. They become more and more difficult to remove as you use them. For best results they should be removed after every dive day and cleaned or they will soon stick in place.
  6. 2 points
    Only IBIS equipped popcorn canister allowed
  7. 2 points
    After looking at the Backscatter page and talking with them there is zero advantage to getting a tg6. I'm just going to bring my EPL10 with the kit lens and basic housing. It's nearly the same size as the tg6 in a housing AND I already have everything I need to get going. I know it's not going to produce the best photos but it will still capture photos and memories.
  8. 2 points
    I made two dives today and everything worked perfectly. Between new fiber cables and some cleaning of the full light path the problem has been resolved. Thanks everyone for your suggestions!
  9. 2 points
    Not be pedantic, but neither of your lens choices is rectilinear. The WWL lenses definitely have some distortion to them. Nowhere near a true fisheye lens, but it is noticeable. For context, I currently shoot with a Sony a6400 and use both the Sony 10-18mm and the WWL-C wet lens. I generally use them for different things. The corners on the WWL-C on equivalent camera settings is better, but I shoot a lot of wrecks and usually prefer the 10-18. I'm starting to work on a A7rIV setup and hope to test it with the Sony 24mm and the WWL-C lens in the next 3-4 weeks. - brett
  10. 2 points
    Don't ever judge image quality from the pictures posted on this forum. The Forum software does absolutely horrendous things to the images here and you can also only upload image files that are ridiculously tiny. Maybe, if it's important to you ask the OP to send you high res files separately.
  11. 2 points
    100% agree with Alex Mustard. You can score negligible weight/size, as major problems are outside of housing itself: viewfinder, ports, domes, lights, arms etc. As result you will save 200-300-400 grams with a lot of cost for new system It's sad but true
  12. 2 points
    Frankly you either change lens system or you are stuck with the bulk. I switched to the M43 and it is far more compact (especially the lenses) and the quality is excellent unless you print greater than A2. I sold my Canon lenses and it was the best decision I made. I can lug all my equipment in the airplane cabin (with some accurate planning). I would love to something even more compact but unfortunately unless you stick to UW macro there is nothing more compact that gets close to M43 quality. Most 1" camera sensor manufacturer never optimize their system for UW use. Nikon was the only one that did that in the past but never renewed that market. So I would say that because of the available lenses and compactness M43 is top choice. Andrea
  13. 2 points
    Fully agree @Isaac Szabo, the 90mm lens was and is very usable... not quite sure what the author was trying to communicate by saying it was "unusable" - brings into question the more positive points made in the article.
  14. 2 points
    I have the 90mm and love it. I have used both lenses and would prefer the 90mm for autofocus.
  15. 2 points
    Yes, avoid this We all laughed including himself......
  16. 2 points
    I think a key difference in cropping while shooting while cropping in post is about shooting what you see. If you use the APS-C feature on the camera, your EVF and the screen shows you what the cropped image would be like. You can make make the small adjustments to fill the frame, while staying further away from the subject due to focal length advantage. So, the cropping process is same, but your workflow changes. Seeing the crop in camera allows for better composition, frame filling etc.
  17. 2 points
    I understand that you are all photographers... I feel like a water drop in the desert... what I'm trying to explain is that while you could use that option for photos I guess it's mainly video related. I had an A7S for a short time and it had the ability to work in APSC mode. I always thought this mode was for video because it allowed me to use APSC lens (I think it was the 10-18mm) and fill the entire 4K frame with the 10mm zoom. I could have worked FF and zoomed in to cover the sensor but for the reasons explained in my previous post, there would have been a big difference. At that time A7 and A7S had several limits in video. Also in a video editor it is very inconvenient to have to precisely trim frames. Just my 2c.
  18. 2 points
  19. 2 points
    What you are seeking to use is called a polecam. There are a few threads on them here on Wetpixel. I have been using polecams for years to photograph salmon. My longest is a 2.5 meter long piece of surplus aluminum tubing. This is about as long as I can transport in the bed of a pickup truck. I have also used an old metal monopod. After a few uses the sections would not slide due silt getting into the mechanism. So I leave it as a permanently extended monopod. I use various ball mounts and other hardware such as made by ULCS to attach the housing to the pole. I have a few picks taken over the years of my setups. More can be found in past Wetpixel postings. The first 2 images show my long pole being used.
  20. 2 points
    Deposits and corrosion from ocean water may have gunked the joint. Put a drop or two of penetrating oil on the joint between the valve and the housing, let is soak in overnight, then unscrew per Bill's suggestion. Carefully and completely wipe the oil, and any deposits, after removing, and replace the O ring as it may be damaged.
  21. 2 points
    I had my best luck by choosing the eels that seemed the least skittish to start with, then habituating them slowly and holding my breath as long as possible.
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    While I recognize that without early adopters we don't move forward, on this camera I'd rather wait to get some real feedback. I definitely don't trust all these reviews from people who signed a ton of NDAs to get the camera body before launch and are part of a small circle of Canon friends. [panasonic fan boy mode on] I understand that the lure of the Canon sirens is powerful but frankly an S1H does exactly the same things except for 8K and AF. I imagine the next iteration will tick off both items. [panasonic fan boy mode off]. One thing I love about Canon: its color science it's the best for underwater filming. You really can recognize Canon colors. That being said, all the latest launches are really out of my budget.
  24. 1 point
    Olympus 60mm.. pretty sharp (reminds me of the ef-s 60mm I had on my Canon rig). Hope to dive again soon to further test.
  25. 1 point
    Hey guys. I'm new on wetpixel but I've been freediving for quite a while. I've always loved having a camera in my hands underwater. My brother recently passed away and I adopted his setup. I used to shoot with my 5dmkii and an Aquatica housing. I proudly run my brother's 1DXmkii now in an Aquatica housing with his name on the back. He had such a gift of sharing the underwater world with people. He saw the world through childlike fascination and it showed in his imagery. So proud of what he accomplished and I'm happy for what I learned from him. This video was shot in a grand total of about five freedives. The hammerhead footage was taken with my 5Dmkii. The sand tigers were shot a couple years later with my brother's rig after he passed here in North Carolina. John Through_Brother's_Eyes.mp4
  26. 1 point
    HI, I’ve been using the GH5s for a while and I am quite happy with it. I shoot mostly in ambient light with auto iso and maxing the ISO at 6400 with standard profile. As Davide mentioned it is a different beast than the GH5 and it does produce beautiful images. I hope the second camera you receive will be fault free. Good luck and enjoy the experience.
  27. 1 point
    This one (but only use the micro fibre cloth NOT the felt polishing pads in a drill): Glass Polishing Kit - GP-PRO™ - Do-It-Yourself Give the toothpaste and microfibre cloth a go first, it might just do the trick. In my case I managed to polish out the less severe scratch using a microfibre cloth and toothpaste. The worst scratch was improved using this method but not removed. I then went on to use the glass poslishing kit to remove the second scratch entirely.
  28. 1 point
    Hello for some reason after over15 years on the site I need to introduce myself as they want to know me better. I'm a old timer who stared with film in 1983-was slow to switch to digital in 2009 Started with a cheap point and shoot then an plexiglass Ikelite in 84-became an Aquatic Dealer in 85 and sold and shot the Nikon F3s with motor drive until the early 2000s and then switched out to subal housings with Nikon F5s with motor drives-I loved this setup with velvia film. Sold calendar photos and wrote few pieces until digital put the bite on all photo sales.Shot a d300s for along time. Moved up a few years ago to subal custom housing and Nikon D800. most likely my last housing . Subal is going away slowly and I'm happy where I'm at these days . Lets see I'm a certified tank inspector and have two compressors at home-a few boats as well . I'm not diving as much as I used to as I get closer to 70 but still do a dry suit beach diving yearly in Puget sound for photos . Places I have been are shark cage diving 2005 Mexico, Caribbean in the 80s, Truk logon 3 trips 80's 90s ,Papua New Guinea to Bali 30 day boat trip -2005-hawaii -70's 80's. Costa rica 1986 Solomon's twice,Queen Charlottes Canada 90s-Pacific coast -Monterey -channel Islands-all of them 80-90s-Oregon Puget sound 30 years now. Northern California (my home) I am sure I have missed a few as well. Still like cold water almost as much as warm water-I also have done light commercial diving (water wells and salvage). Diving is a side thing as my main business for 50 years now is making and selling fictional pottery for the home. (liscomhillpottery.com) Thanks Mark Cortright
  29. 1 point
    I have reviewed both the Tamron 17-28 F/2.8 and the Sony FE 14mm F/1.8 for Underwater Photography magazine issues#119 and #122. The Tamron is far better than the Sony FE 16-35mm F/4 and about on par with the Sony FE 16-35mm F/2.8 GM. The Sony FE 14mm F/1.8 is a no brainer over the Sigma. If you sign-in with your E-mail and go to the back issues you will also find my reviews for the Sony A7 III and several Ikelite housings. You need the largest eight inch dome for best results with both lenses or a 230mm if you go with another housing brand. If you are buying all new equipment you may also want to consider the newly released A7 IV it is better in just about every way over the A7 III. when you go to back issues enter my name Phil Rudin in the search engine and you can find the reviews more easily.
  30. 1 point
    I have done the same thing - used the Z6 with the excellent 24-70 kit lens for most of my topside shooting last trip to Hawaii (b4 the pandemic). Had the FTZ in case I wanted to use one my macro lenses (which I did not get around to on this trip). Found this on Facebook so here courtesy of Seasport Divers' posting there. Well protected against solar radiation and holding the Z6 off Niihau Island (in the background).
  31. 1 point
    @Tom_Kline wow that's awesome! So one option is to place torches in the sand, facing upwards on a decent slope at maybe 2m, 3m and 5m. Then go for a quick shallow 20min dive, return and we should see critters? The reason I ask is because both Maldives and the red sea don't offer Blackwater diving but they do offer night dives! And where they offer night dives they have plenty of torches...
  32. 1 point
    The Sony FE 90mm macro was released in early 2015 so is a bit old compared to current macro lenses for mirrorless cameras from Canon, Nikon, Sigma and others. Lens development has changed dramatically since 2015 but the 90mm still holds it own on many levels. The new Sigma looks excellent and has some upsides with a lower cost, the ability to be used with tele converters up to X2 and excellent image quality. It is however a bit slower than the Sony 90mm. I have tired the Canon 100mm macro IS with Sigma and Metabones adapters on Sony A7R IV and A1 and unlike Backscatter I found no noticeable difference on A7R IV and the 90 was clearly faster on A1. When I first started using the 90mm on A7 II and A7R II I used focus limiting because the lens hunted less. As the camera bodies improved I moved to focusing through the full range unless I set out to do nothing but 1:1 or greate macror. I also agree with Jim Decker's (Backscatter) statement that the Sony 90mmm macro matted with the Sony A1 camera is the best macro I have ever used and between use we have used a bunch. One of the best tests of macro lenses auto focusing underwater is blackwater diving where everything is in motion including the diver, camera and subject. The two attached photos where taken on blackwater dives using the Sony A7R III and A1 with the 90mm macro. The Zoea, larval stage crab was taken in the Philippines with the A7R III. The constantly moving Juvenile Tuna (about three inches/76mm) was taken off Palm Beach, Florida using AF-C and focus area tracking spot which acquired the head and eye instantly. I also use the 1/400th shutter speed for blackwater and see a noticeable difference over 1/250th sec. You would think that on a night dive miles off shore that the water would be black to begin with but I find far more purple tint with the 1/250th over the 1/400th speed.
  33. 1 point
    I agree with Andrea. I went down the Olympus M -5 and never regretted it. I can do all the things a full size DSLR can do without ANY of the bulk. I also got a 1" Sony compact, and it has a greater range of lenses if that matters.
  34. 1 point
    There are organisms that are going to be attracted to light at night regardless of depth or salinity so the answer to your question is YES! I have been working on this at a small scale as a covid project - maybe it should be called cigarette lighter (not literally of course) underwater photography. One does not need very much light once it is dark to do this. My main limitation is that once it actually gets dark at night (in Alaska north of 60 degrees latitude), it gets cold rather quickly. Found an example on my HD taken before things froze up. Note that there is still twilight at 8:21 pm on Sept 26 (it looks like this at 3 in the afternoon now!). I used the Retra strobe's aiming light to also be the "bonfire" You can see stuff growing on the bottom of the lake. The stool was so that I could look at the back of the camera once out of the water while all the stuff was still attached to it (it stayed horizontal).
  35. 1 point
    I honestly never understood why Sony kept so many camera bodies on the market at the same time. They have (on B&H) available to purchase 13 different models of camera, that's a lot to keep in the manufacturing pipeline. It makes sense why they are stopping the camera lines that have the FW50 battery packs since they are so small and drain really really quickly and they have the A6600 that has the FZ100 battery that is way better than any of the other APSC bodies. To me it makes sense for them to either focus on the Point and shoot line (RX100iiv and ZV-1) OR the APSC line with the A6600 as well as keeping a few of the bodies from the current full frame line up (A7iv, A7Riv, A7iiis, A9ii, A1). Also, who knows if they are still making the RX-10 live of cameras as it also takes the FW50 battery. Olympus also does this and they should also think about limiting their line up; they have 6 camera lines (TG, PEN EPL, EM-10, EM-5, EM-1, EM1x). The PEN -EPL, EM10, and the EM5 are so similar they should consolidate them into one camera line for the entry level user. The EM1 and the EM1x are just different enough it makes sense to keep them both; unless there isn't going to be an update to the EM1x then just give the EM-1 the firmware update to make it like the EM1x. Olympus promised a new WOW camera soon so hopefully they aren't spreading themselves too thin across several camera bodies in a quickly shrinking micro4/3 market, unless this WOW camera is taking the place of the EM1x. I don't really follow other camera brands so I can speak to them but 2022 should be an exciting year for camera companies and we shall see how they respond to more and more cell phone camera users.
  36. 1 point
    My first clamps were the bargain type (brand was D&D), initally good performance but after about a year of use they became very weak. Now I use Nauticam and UCLS and they endure now for years... Similar situation with the arms: first cheap D&D, replaced later by Nauticam. No difference in the strenght of clamping, but Nauticam arms are considerably lighter, especially good for air travel... When I consider the amount of money spent for the entire UW photography equipment, the cost for clamps and arms is a very small part. I will not go for cheapos again, in the long term they are even more expensive since one buys double... Wolfgang
  37. 1 point
    Wow, exquisite work! Both on the location and in the post. I can see the benefits of stabilisation and I would only wish my GH5S would have one. Fingers crossed for GH6 :-). I was on a live aboard at about the same time in Red Sea. I've tried HDR delivery but had to mix GoPro footage in this as it's a field trip report, not a reel. Did you shoot v-log or standard and how did you deal with white balancing? https://youtu.be/94lVqZEafbM
  38. 1 point
    I think having both FF and crop such as DX in one viewfinder helps see what the framing will be and it's quicker than trying to crop in post. But if you only need a small crop factor, like 20% then it's irrelevant. There's also the competition factor, where cropping may be limited to a certain percentage (say 25%), if you start at FF you may need to go beyond the limit while being in the DX/APSC mode (or whatever your camera calls it) won't violate that rule. @David DB you're correct about many FF sensors cropping for video. Since the aspect ratio is different that is a necessity. But it is a frustration to find that video at 120 fps or 4x slow is shot on the equivalent of a cropped sensor - it of course varies with model and manufacturer. The video on my newer Nikon bodies is way better than my old APSC/DX bodies though. So that's why I have switched to FF Jon
  39. 1 point
    Hi Tom. I’ve just bought Fujimi FJBH-Z1 tripod head and found it very useful at first glance. It can be attached to monopod or tripod in various ways and also can work without monopod and tripod. Here are some pics of this device.
  40. 1 point
    Right, but it doesn't really extend the lens - there is no hidden teleconverter that swings into place when you push the button. All it does is crop out a 24x18mm region from the middle of your 36x24mm sensor, which raises the same question - why do it at the time of capture? Why not crop it afterwards, and get the 'equivalent' of a 200mm lens, or maybe a 105mm lens instead of a '135mm' crop, if the subject lets you in close enough? Or maybe there's some piece of scenery in the shot that you want to include and the desired crop ends up off-center? The only material benefit to this crop that I can think of is the faster flash sync speed on A1 when it's operating in APS-C crop mode.
  41. 1 point
    I took some more photos to show my quadrapod and my water-wings. By using different length bolts it is possible to have camera sit more or less level on the bottom where there is a slope. The water-wings are to provide some positive buoyancy when using the rather negative Nauticam optical accessories but something like this (float arms in different positions and different holes ) could be used with a go-pro to have your camera float near the surface. This plate has already been used for a few different purposes (note extra holes and circular wear).
  42. 1 point
    Paguro, Between the two lenses the Sigma 15 is the far better choice because it will focus to 15cm while the Sony FE 28mm F/2 with the fisheye adapter focuses to only 22cm (not good for a fisheye) while the 28mm has decent image quality I found the combo with the fisheye adapter to be average at best. I will let others argue the merits of the Outex brand which I have never used. Lots of used A7R II housings have come up for sale in the WP classifieds including a fairly complete Seacam set for $2000.00 on page 4. P.S. Barmaglot is not entirely correct about the APS-C mode on the full frame Sony cameras. You can use any lens be it E or FE and it will produce an APS-C size image. I use it a lot with the 90mm macro when I don't want to bother with a C/U lens. So you get a FF 90mm image and an equivelent 135mm image using APS-C. With the A7R IV in APS-C you get a 26MP file and with the A1 you get a 21MP file.
  43. 1 point
    Also not very powerful - usable, but marginal. SF-01? I believe it ships with a basic diffuser, but I'm not aware of any company making snoots for it - that's why I refer to it as somewhat feature-deficient. You might be able to adapt something yourself, but even if you do, the usage experience is likely to be sub-par, as its modeling light is offset from the center, and when fired, the strobe will illuminate a different spot from the one indicated by the aiming LED. MF-01 has two modeling LEDs, one on either side of the flash bulb, so each one's offset is canceled out by the other. Retra strobes have the modeling light in the center of the circular ring flash, so that's not an issue either, but SF-01 really isn't the best choice for snooting. I've seen some people mount two regular strobes out on arms, and an MF-1 with snoot up on a cold shoe, with a flex arm for aiming.
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    I've done something similar with a bolt snap but also a little different. My bolt snap is on a small piece of cave line that is attached through a hole I drilled. I also have the WWL-C and not the -1 or -1B. Given the amount of gear, bailout bottles, etc. I dive with, I also feel better having the hard cap on for the dive. The reason I have the extra line is that I keep the bolt snap attached to my Nauticam housing setup. There are a few small brackets with holes and I attach the bolt snap to that. When I get to the bottom, I take off the cap and then just "let it go" knowing that it is attached to the housing and won't get "lost." Two additional thoughts: 1) I have had a really hard time removing the cap at depth due to the vacuum effect I believe. While I don't cherish the idea of drilling more holes into the cap, I do like the idea from @keesbl since it will make it a LOT easier to remove at depth. 2) The length of my cave line is such that the cap can be on the wet lens and also connected to the housing. The downside is that it "floats" and sometimes gets in the way. I've thought about weighting it a little bit with tire weights so that it always is negative and below the GoPro I mount on top of my housing. In addition, I also wear dry gloves on all my dives and have no problems operating the small bolt snap, but I also have plenty of practice given all the gear I carry on my dives. - brett
  46. 1 point
    I have added a variety of items to the bottom of my housings to use with polecam setups. Most recently I have made a quadrapod using bolts as legs but I do not have pix of it only pix taken using it. Here are a couple from my files. I took this shot after carrying everything (in a couple of trips) down a hiking trail from a road and prior to doing any shooting. There are a bunch of ankle weights wrapped around the poles for ease of carrying this distance. Note that the "pods" are about 0.5 m long which is about as big as will fit in these backpacks.
  47. 1 point
    I make my own housings and test them in a used pool filters. You can use regular city water pressure and simulate a depth of over 150 feet depending on you water pressure. It's much safer than using air pressure.
  48. 1 point
    Hi everyone My name is Olive, I am a french diver, I do underwater filming as much as i can. Happy to join the group. Below a video that i have done in French Polynesia last year.
  49. 1 point
    Hi Scotty, I am back now since two weeks, but did not have time yet to postprocess the greatest part of my photos: a lot of work after the holidays and finally I got a summer-flu and am lying right now in the bed... What I can say is just what my impression is now: To have similar corner sharpness with the Nauticam NA140 and the Zen DP100 dome, the 100 dome requires 1-2 f-stops more (this statement I will be able to check after processing my photos). With the NA140 dome (and the Zen DP170), I do not recognize a difference in AF compared to the Zuiko 8mm fisheye (I always use "C-AF" with my EM1II). I have the impression that with the DP100 the number of slightly out of focus photos is substantial (I never noticed such photos before with the NA140 dome).. For me the NA140 will remain the main fisheye dome. I also never used the Zuiko 8mm since I have the Canon 8-15mm (and the Tokina 11-18mm). The DP100 will be for extreme CFWA (The NA140 is, however, quite small; the difference is not big)... Wolfgang
  50. 1 point
    See below a limited summary of the equipment setup and and test results. This summary is not designed to be a comparison to other setups for the Canon 8-15 on m43, simply an investigation into the feasibility of this specific equipment setup. https://www.flickr.com/photos/193329934@N02/albums/72157719526251695/with/51278536908/ The equipment fits comfortably. The extension built into the Zen DP-100-N120CR minidome removes the requirement to use a N120 extension ring. IMG_20210627_102210 by Jonathan Crowe, on Flickr My experience is that the operation of using the knob on the port adaptor to adjust the zoom on the 8-15 was a bit stiff and clunky. @Interceptor121 and @Architeuthis, did you experience the same? I'm wondering if the dimensions of the zoom ring adaptor I had printed are a bit off and I'm experience sub-optimal performance. With no extension ring, the positioning of the lens front element is 5mm closer to the glass dome that is determined to be optimal by Zen and Nauticam. This is because the 1x adaptor is 5mm deeper than the Metabones Speed Booster Ultra 0.71x Lens Adaptor that the Nauticam N85-N120 34.7mm Port Adaptor is designed for. IMG_20210627_101826 by Jonathan Crowe, on Flickr It is difficult to determine the impact on image quality and field of view, with this deviation from optimal entry pupil positioning, in the absence of comparison images captured using the 30mm N120 extension ring and N120 140mm dome. With a recent opportunity to dive on the North Norfolk cost eliminated by poor weather and diving conditions, I resorted to the controlled photography environment of my kitchen sink. IMG_20210627_163003 by Jonathan Crowe, on Flickr The subject was a small spool with line positioned on a small ceramic bowl. The base of bowl was touching the dome shade. This was to simulate golf ball sized subject with interesting skin texture and facial features on a rocky outcrop. The bath mat has a very subtle rough texture and was positioned so the printed images were close to the corners of the frame. I think the image quality is excellent. The depth of field necessary to resolve the texture on the bath mat is achieved at f8 and corner sharpness is not improved by stopping down any further than f11. P1111054 by Jonathan Crowe, on Flickr More images at different apertures are available at the Flickr link at the top of this post. I saw no point in testing the lens at 15mm in the sink as I could not position any suitably sized subjects and a reasonable distance from the port. I'm happy with this setup as it delivers very good image quality and accomplishes my goal of fitting all my equipment in a IATA compliant carry on rucksack. This would have been very difficult/impossible if an extension ring and 140mm dome were substituted. If I ever get a free house in the future I plan on testing the zoom range and IQ of the Canon 8-15 FE and the Panasonic 14-42ii behind the AOI-UWL-09 wet lens in the bathtub with subjects at different distances. There is very little analysis of the AOI wide wet lens on WetPixel, so I plan to make a contribution. I'll be diving off of the Farne islands in September 2021 so my objective is to have a better understanding of the capabilities and limitations of both lens setups before I go and deploy them in the real world! I'm happy to receive any thoughts, feedback or suggestions for further testing.

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