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  1. 4 points
    Link to full album HERE Few shots Tompot Blenny Mediterranean by Interceptor121, on Flickr Sunseeker by Interceptor121, on Flickr Hole in the wall by Interceptor121, on Flickr Gennaro and Carmela by Interceptor121, on FlickrBreeding Male Anthias by Interceptor121, on Flickr
  2. 3 points
    With regards to video you can shoot all the way to ISO 5000 and still retain colour however I don’t really do that There is a DR improvement on photos at base iso of at least 2/3 ev and the camera does better in backlit shots The new menu system is an improvement actually and there are additional exposure tools Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. 2 points
    Definitely will keep working on diving before taking a rig along with me! I can imagine having a setup completely throws off your trim and buoyancy until you're comfortable with it.
  4. 2 points
    Yes I am using the AOI housing for the EPL10. I think it is a decent option because it supports the essential m43 lenses, namely the Oly 8mm f1.8, Oly 60mm f2.8 Macro, 14-42mm + WWL. It covers everything from wide to fish portraits to macro. The led trigger is a game changer for me. i am able to capture action with quick bursts from my strobes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. 2 points
    A very meta feedback but would it be possible to reduce the time between searches on this forum? When I search for something (using the text box), i need to wait several seconds every time I move between the results pages. This is not a big issue frankly, but I found this feature a little bit frustrating today! I guess it must be to prevent cyber attacks? Thank you Alex
  6. 2 points
    The arm seem a little bit short. See if with the house in the tray you do have space enough to use the clamps, if it does not reduce the access to any function of the housing. David refers 200mm/5” arms, but it was a mistake. 200mm is 8”. To secure the tripod base (the arms used as tripod base) you should use 2 screws in each, to avoid the arm to rotate.
  7. 2 points
    For Strait of messina just ask to Pietro. Lately Mimmo Roscigno & co. went there diving with Domy Tripodi, a resident uw photographer who has a diving center in Saline ioniche just south of the strait and the best dives are from the beach. Mostly macro. You can see his photos here. Mimmo Roscigno posted several photos shot there last month. https://www.facebook.com/ficarelladiving.salinejoniche Reggio Calabria is an intl. airport so it should be easy getting there directly. Scilla, Saline and other spots are within few minutes by car. Just as example, diving at "La Montagna" (The Mountain) from shore in front of the city in winter time That Cerianthus is 40 years old at least. This video cuts make me sick!!!
  8. 2 points
    I love Hyeres islands. I went there 5 times during the '90s even a liveboard. IIRC it's the oldest MPA in Europe. Speaking of short range destinations May I suggest a couple of other destinations in Italy worth to consider? Argentario in Tuscany. There's a national marine protected area much more as Portofino but cheaper and with better visibility. (www.argentariodivers.com is one of the biggest and most professional diving center in Italy). Give me a shout if you come! Strait of Messina. Scilla is a classic destination. During the '90s it was considered the best dive spot in the Mediterranean sea. I'm still convinced that it is. Maybe not the best but among the 3 best med dive areas. Why it's not so famous? because it's in Calabria, perhaps the most underdeveloped Italian region. But the dives there.... Strait of Messina deserves a special explanation. The particular morphological conditions of the Strait (in the narrowest point it is only 100 meters deep but in the southern part it quickly reaches over 2000 meters) make it possible to form a venturi effect with strong currents that bring nutrients from the depths. It is an extraordinary ecosystem, unique in the Mediterranean Sea for biocenosis and abundance of species. The intense and alternating currents determine a condition of "Atlantic" type. In fact, many purely Atlantic species, such as laminaria, although present in some other areas of the Mediterranean Sea, only in the Strait of Messina are able to form well-structured communities forming real underwater forests. Another peculiarity of the Strait of Messina is the presence of a numerous abyssal fauna which, transported to the surface by the current, can be easily captured or found beached along the shore. Their abundant presence attracted to Messina between the second half of the nineteenth century and the beginning of the twentieth century scientists from all over Europe who could find, in a relatively simple way, the most varied and abundant material for their studies. Krohn and Anton Dohrn, defined the Strait of Messina as the paradise of zoologists. Basically you only dive at times of tidal fatigue. The water is warm and visibility never drops below 20 meters. Even in the middle of winter I found minimum sea temperatures of 18 degrees Celsius. Just google "reggio calabria lungomare alberi" to understand the climate there. Many dives are done from the shore and you can meet very rare species for the Mediterranean. If you search for "trumpet fish in the Strait of Messina" you will understand what I mean. If you like wrecks you have no choice but to choose including some that can be reached from the beach. One of the many It's hard to find conditions where you can't dive there. You also have the Sicilian coasts at your disposal. The prices are outrageous and you have the airport of Reggio Calabria to 10 minutes. A famous diving is the Scilla Diving Center Check this out to see what kind of photos are taken in the Strait of Messina. https://www.facebook.com/francesco.turano1 P.S. Don't mess with currents here! Bye
  9. 2 points
    Honestly, I have one of the top end compacts (Sony RX100V... well it was when I bought it) and I've moved from a macro to a predominatly wide angle location (Great Barrier Reef!). It's 20mp, so not shabby, shoots in manual and the pictures blow up large. Look - it does the job, especially for holiday snaps where I've taken it on liveaboards in the Philippines etc, and instagram, however I'm finding that in large wide angle locations with fast pelagics, I'm limited by a couple of things. Reach, and then flash recycle time. Which has always been an issue, but much easier to wait 3.24 seconds with a nudibranch than a manta or tiger shark! However, I'm trying to get semi pro shots for tourism and brochures and the compact is hard work, most of the time I walk away with photos that I'm not happy with. I'm now moving to a full frame mirrorless, to be able to capture better quality pictures, faster, with more reach. However, gone for a smallish model so hopefully it is easy to transport around. I'll keep the Sony for shore diving at my new town as the entries are hazardous, so don't want a big/heavy rig for those. I also bought a TG6 but utterly hate it . I think it's because I've always shot in manual and the TG doesn't allow me to. Good luck!
  10. 2 points
    I've been using a 90mm with my A6300 for a while now. A focus light isn't absolutely critical, but it helps, especially when doing supermacro with a close-up lens on top of the port. What is crucial is the ability to hold the camera absolutely still while the lens focuses - this can take a few seconds, longer on smaller subjects, and even tiny camera movements tend to reset the focusing process. Surge and currents are your enemy. I tried using it on a blackwater dive once and couldn't get it to work in autofocus mode, but another diver on the boat, also shooting an A6300 with the 90mm, did get some nice shots on the same dive using DMF pre-focused on a certain distance and moving the camera back and forth.
  11. 2 points
    I just had a UW videography student with a brand new GH5 ii setup in Nauticam housing, and I shoot on GH5 and got to do some comparison. First of all, and highly annoyingly, the menus are all redone. So me helping her set up her camera properly took way too long [emoji28] In terms of image quality, I find them similar. You can ofc do internal 4k 50/60 10bit which is nice. But as already mentioned, improved battery life is amazing. Will I upgrade? Nah. Not a huge upgrade. But if I was picking up a new camera I'd go with the mark ii over the original, worth the extra cash imo Sent from my Redmi Note 5 using Tapatalk
  12. 2 points
    I have been shooting MFT since 2015 so my memories of the Sony RX100 are not so fresh I had a very good set up and pulled decent shots with the RX100 however the current set up although more bulky is superior There were some benefit with the rx100 for example the leaf shutter went all the way to thousands for sunbursts however the images were not the same quality or sharpness overall I have also developed more my style and my knowledge so some of the improvements depend on that Since the sony had a 24-70mm lens it was no longer adequate for me and the new version with a port system is at the end worst than using my set up in terms of flexibility
  13. 2 points
    Instead of plexiglass or aluminium, you can use wood to put on both sides of the base (arms). It might be easier and cheaper to find on a remote location. The screws and bolts 4mm / 5mm diameter is more than enough. 12mm / 15 mm long should be ok also. The most important is to have them in stainless steel, 316 preferably
  14. 2 points
    Hi My Hugycheck pump failed. I've ordered a pump to fix it but need a reliable backup solution. I have found that there are very capable manual pumps available for less than £5. One of these from ebay only requires me to cycle the pump 7 times to get to vaccuum with an empty housing. Hose not required and pump fits the valve on the housing perfectly. 1Set Air Pump Suction Pump Manual Pumping For Vacuum Compression Bags NT | eBay Safe diving Grant
  15. 1 point
    I'll be posting the pictures I get with my actual system, Fujifilm X-T3 into Nauticam housing. Please, feel free to criticize the pics. Flabellina Affinis, Ifach Rock, Spain. Fujifilm X-T3 + Fujinon 80mm macro + Nauticam housing + 2x Backscatter MF1 @wetdreamsphoto
  16. 1 point
    Flabellina Affinis, La Llosa-Benidorm, Spain Fujifilm X-T3 + Fujinon 80mm macro + Nauticam housing + 2x Backscatter MF1 @wetdreamsphoto
  17. 1 point
    @Draq & @TimG, Being lucky (daft?) enough to have both a D500 and D850 (both housed in Nauticam housings) there are really only 2 scenarios where I lean towards shooting with the D850 over the D500. 1. Wide angle where I can shoot the WACP on the D850 (with the old 28-70mm lens, for example). I don't take the WACP on every trip, and when I do it means lugging around another piece of luggage just to hold the WACP (small to medium suitcase just for it). The optics are really nice however (w/good corner sharpness), so if you there's a good chance to find large(r) subjects it often makes sense to bring it (like in the Maldives this summer). 2. Blackwater diving - the D500 with a 60mm is very good, however I've found that the D850 with (the same) 60mm is virtually as good focusing, and you can crop into the image a little bit more, so you tend to keep a few more shots. For regular macro I actually prefer the D500 - I find it to be more flexible framing subjects and it's really good in low light or where a subject is being a bit elusive. Also, shooting anything "fish-size" I prefer the D500, might just be that I've shot with it longer, but it feels a little bit more flexible.
  18. 1 point
    I am in the DX format camp. I used micro four thirds for years and then moved to a D500. Due to the larger format, I have more flexibility in cropping, but the big differences for me were dynamic range and the focusing performance of the camera compared to EM1 MkII. Much faster and more accurate focusing, especially in lower light and much better tracking of fast moving creatures. Perhaps with better skills I could overcome this, and I have retained the Olympus gear, but the DX vs M43 size difference is modest and the DX is really just a lot more enjoyable for me. When making the switch from M43, I was thinking of going full frame and almost bought a D850, but was talked out of it by several people, and frankly, as someone who does this as a hobby, and who has to travel to dive, I am glad I went DX. I just cannot deal with the travel implications of a 230mm dome. This (and price) has also kept me from the Nauticam wet lens options. I tried and still have a WWL, but it is heavy and some of the other options dwarf the WWL. For me, APS-C and its amenability to 100mm, 140mm and 170-180mm domes and crop factor boost for macro lenses hits a sweet spot. Also, for wildlife photography, the crop factor gives me a some nice options in hand-holdable / comfortably-carried telephotos and zooms. Unless Nikon and Canon put more effort into DX format mirrorless, I am not sure I will go that route willingly.
  19. 1 point
    LX10 does not play nice with wide angle wet lenses. The port is too long. If you're set on the LX10, Issota sell a housing where you can swap in a shorter port.
  20. 1 point
    Thanks - I hesitated between the 5" and 8" arms, but when with the shorter as I couldn't see reasons to go with longer arms - It's for a compact housing and I couldn't see functional issues when measuring things out - when looking into it I also saw that actual Nauticam tripod mounts are quite close to the housing (albeit at an angle). My housing's in for repairs should be back in a couple days, so i'll get to check if the arm length is problematic or not. I got the 4 legs today and it's looking quite good, but I'll definitely need a second screw to avoid rotation. The polycarbonate sheet should be arriving tomorrow, along with longer screws, so hopefully I'll be able to fix something. I'm pretty happy with the way it's going - the biggest expense / headache are the screws so far, which hard to come by and expensive in these parts.... We're leaving Japan to work in Maldives for winter, but if all goes well I might actually get to test the setup on a couple of dives before we set off.
  21. 1 point
    Time for some overdue thanks to: @mdo905 purchased the CMC-1 my wife will never use. @PsychoSgt is putting to use 2 YS-110s from my original 20D rig @gdiver25 took one of my YS-D2s. @shjeong8 took the other YS-D2 and my older YS-D1. It was great working with all of you, thanks for helping me fund a bit of the bonfire my R5 is causing.
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    For the EPL10 (m43), there is the options of the oly 60mm f/2.8, Oly 8mm f/1.8 and pana 8mm f/3.5. They are quite bright. I bought the EPL10 mainly because it is small and compact but has more versatility and potential for growth (versus Canon G series/ Pana LX10). I've chosen the Oly 60mm for macro/fish portraits and 14-42mm + WWL-1B for my wide angle (more versatile than the 8mm because it allows for zoom thru IMO). I use them with a pair of Z330s. I am very happy with the 60mm for macro/fish portraits, AF is very snappy. Custom white balance is very good as well. The 14-42 mm + WWL-1B combo I have not been able to try yet because of travel restrictions. I also agree with Chris that TTL is a hit or a miss and depends on the camera. Shooting manual yields way better results most of the time. You can also stop up and down in camera so you don't have change strobe power settings.
  24. 1 point
    Hello, I've used both the larger plastic (for mirrorless) and the largest aluminum Gorilla Pod underwater. The plastic one worked great underwater, it did not rust, etc. but overtime (a little over a year) the leg joints started loosening and got cracking in the sockets. It was very useful lightweight and could easily pack it for travel. Load capacity wasn't an issue since your rig is much lighter underwater. This is my bet if you are decided on gorilla pod for underwater. After the plastic one broke, I upgraded to the aluminum one, with the hope it would be more durable. For the record aluminum does not rust like steel. When aluminum rusts (aka oxidizes), the rust forms a protective layer of aluminum oxide. But the Gorillapod is anodized aluminum so you don't have that oxidation issue to deal with. However, one major issue I have encountered is the rubber compound they use on the aluminum version. After sometime the rubber became swollen and started peeling off. Eventually, it was just the aluminum ball and sockets legs remaining. Not very pretty but it still worked. The plastic version does not seem to have that issue with the compound they used for the grip. Also for the aluminum version I only used the base with the legs, the ball head on the aluminum version had lots of small parts that rusted. I've switched instead to just using strobe arms as a tripod legs. Less maintenance and rinsing needed. Much lighter than the Gorillapod. There isn't much places for a gorillapod to cling to underwater. If you are looking for a Gorillapod like experience, try DIY and buy Loc-Line Pipes and you can fashion yourself a tripod! Load capacity isn't much of an issue underwater due to the buoyancy of your rig. On land, I recommend the aluminum version, much more stable than the plastic one. However is quite heavy for what it does.
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    Hello all - I've made some progress on the project, ordering 5 inch ball arms on Ali Express with predrilled 1/4 inch threads, along with assorted countersunk screws - I settled for M5 (5mm diameter) as 1/4 inch was too thick to fit in available and usable tray spaces, and there's not that many lenght options available in the format. I mounted the arms to the tray using M5 screws in the 1/4 mount holes. However the Nauticam tray is asymetrical, so what worked was having the bolt up on the smaller side and bolt down on the larger side. The mount is not 100% symmetrical, but close, and I think it will do. It's pretty stable already as is, but I'll need longer screws - the ones I'm using are 20mm M5 and that's a little short, so I ordered 25mm in 316 stainless - I I'll probably need washers as well. I'm ordering the bolts etc on amazon.jp, so choice is limited, but ordering from China direct takes over 2 weeks and I might be on the move again soon. I also ordered a polycarbonate sheet, with a thickness of 5mm that I should be receiving in a couple of days. Idea is to reinforce this setup by adding a plate to the arms, so I can have another bolt to secure the whole thing, as suggested.
  27. 1 point
    I shot a GH5 II for a few weeks in the Red Sea last month. Mostly photos, but also video. Can't say I really noticed much image quality difference over the GH5, either for photos or videos. I wasn't doing side-by-side controlled tests, to be fair, just shooting. Continuous autofocus for video with the 14-42 + WWL-1 was definitely a bit better, but I was mostly shooting with the Canon 8-15mm fisheye + adapter, so the autofocus wasn't really an advantage there. In the end, not keeping the GH5 II. That $1700 can be better invested elsewhere
  28. 1 point
    Hi Stuart, Great pictures and beautiful colors! It's always nice to see tropical water photos as a European! I particularly like the nurse shark, the hermit crab and the octopus eyes. For the barrel sponge one, is it a cropped one at 60mm (+WWL-1) ? Thank you for sharing Alex
  29. 1 point
    Gotcha. Yeah, I know my lights are underpowered for WA, mainly because coming from the TG5, WA was more of an afterthought. For wrecks, it is my intent to use whatever ambient light is available. Most of WA work would be fish portraits (angels, groupers, lionfish, morays) and some larger subjects, sharks, whale sharks, mantas/eagle rays), not looking to do sunballs, split shots, or reefscapes (well, maybe if I see something really neat). One of the hiccups for me with WA is the bulkiness of lenses, this is why I'm looking at the Wwl-c/WWL-1B as the primary candidate(s). So far, I've really enjoyed macro work and if TG5 had full manual mode, we probably wouldn't be having this conversation. I guess what II'm really trying to get at is what platform to build around the Lx10 or the E-pl1 coupled with the WWL-C/WWL-1B for the "long haul" without having hands-on experience underwater with either. Lx10 has been around for years, to the point where Nauticam discontinued their housing for it...keeping an eye on one second hand; plus compatibility of housings (ikelite/nauticam) with WA lenses and their performance is hit or miss. The AOI housing for the EPL seems well laid out and is compact, however, lack of TTL gives me pause, especially with how small (PIA) the knobs are on the S2000s. The lense availability for the EPL seems to be in a better place than for the Lx10, at least to my uneducated mind after some cursory Google-fu.
  30. 1 point
    Each ISO has native ISO, that's correct, I have attached a chart that shows each one. For the HLG3 I believe its ISO 2000 for the higher setting, which is what I used throughout this video. Of course with SLOG3, you get clean files at ISO12,800, so it depends on how deep going, etc, for example as I am using the Sony 28mm F2 lens and WWL-1, if I want to take of the WWL-1 and shoot portraits at wide aperture (which I often do), the SLOG3 wouldn't work, as F2 there would just be far too much light coming in, so its always a choice based on what I want to film.
  31. 1 point
    Not a direct answer to you but I have almost all of the sony wide angle combos possible (on A7III) 28-60 + WWL-1 15mm Sigma + dome (& extension) 16-35 + dome (& extension) 18mm (Batis) + dome (& extension) The 1. has the highest corner to corner sharpness / Image quality of all of the above and it is the most well balanced and compact rig. I am extremely happy with it. The 14mm would be nice if you shoot mostly inside of wrecks or if you want a very wide split shot but for any other aspects, I would go for 1. or 2. Maybe if I go in Maldives and want to take pictures of distant sharks then I will chose the 16-35 (or break the piggy bank for a WACP).
  32. 1 point
    On its own there is no case. However I got rid of the Olympus OMD EM1MKII I had as the GH5M2 has a new shutter box so I can take long exposures with the electronic shutter I sold the GH5 for £950 including some accessories...
  33. 1 point
    Beautiful shots Massimo - thank you for sharing! Great album, all the shots are amazing - I particularly love the anthias side portrait (beautiful lighting), the wide angle with the 2 cernie, the "hole in the wall with Anthias" and the blenny & octopus shots. I am mostly shooting in the French Mediterranean side when I can travel but I need to try the Italian reefs, Liguria and Amalfi then ! Grazie mille! Alex
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    @lbaldwin99 Let us know how it goes...
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    Something like the attached images can be made with cost of less than USD 90 plus shipping. Its available at https://www.bgningoem.com Butterfly clamps, tray, arms etc. all included in this cost. Hope this helps
  38. 1 point
    There is a new ULCS tripod that is designed for this type of housing. Bill
  39. 1 point
    You can get a tripod base on Aliexpress for about $30-40, attach your Nauticam handles and camera to the top, and mount legs to the bottom. Example: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001793864931.html
  40. 1 point
    I had two Flexytray with different tripod options. Your version is the worst ") Anyway you have 3 options: Unfortunately this is a nearly permanent mod. I used it several times. It's perfect but I had 2 flexytray. The second option is Chris suggestion. The third option is similar to Chris one except for using the extra holes you already have: You will need longer screws to retain your alu/plastic plate. Regarding tripod plates that will not break the bank.... https://www.flex-arm.com/en/tripods-and-monopods
  41. 1 point
    Of course another away is Aquatica technicians/commercials jump in and give you a help….. I am confident that if this tread was about Nauticam, a Nauticam responsible had already answered properly!
  42. 1 point
    Do you have the reference of the zoom gear you own? I noticed at My camera is Canon 7D MkII. it uses type 2 lens chart. for exemple, for Tokina 10-17 FE, it uses the 18717 zoom gear. The type 3 lens for Nikon uses the same zoom gear for that lens. The AD7000 housing uses the type 4 lens for Nikon, that for the same lens uses the 48717 zoom gear. It might be that the difference in the zoom gears is the external diameter. The dimension and number of teeth I gave you is based on the 18xxx type of gears.
  43. 1 point
    That why I asked for a picture of the mechanism inside. It might be that a part is misaligned.
  44. 1 point
    I am still waiting for Nauticam and Zen to come out with recommendations and gears for this lens, too. My lens has been sitting unused in a bag. Very versatile and close focusing. I was hoping that it would fit in the 4” port so that a flip diopter could be used for the 50mm equivalent. But it is too big - without any gears.
  45. 1 point
    @Architeuthis Re: Olympus AF experience... Both my kids started shooting with Oly's - our daughter started with an E-M5, then eventually moved to a E-M1 (our son inherited the older system as part of the upgrade). the E-M1 was a huge step up (esp. for macro) but was still not in same class as my D500 (which my son now has). Re: The Sony A7III was a negligible upgrade for macro (from the Oly), however the A7R4 definitely is an improvement (although the Sony 90mm F/2.8 is still not "amazing" in low light or with fast moving subjects). The A7R4 still trails the D500 both in low light and AF capabilities (an illustrative test: black water dives... the D500 outperforms almost every other camera except the D850, also with a 60mm lens). Where the A7R4 shines is wide angle, it's both more versatile than a D850 with a WACP and delivers better results that a D500 with a Tokina 10-17 (and dome). My daughter proved this on a daily basis during our recent trip to the Maldives this summer.
  46. 1 point
    encountered a Lion's mane jellyfish got stuck on an anchor line, after free it carefully I took some pictures before it swim away from me. dive was at flagpole, hood canal , shot on 1dx + retra strobs, WACP1 lionesmane jellyfish by Joe Hua, on Flickr lionesmane jellyfish by Joe Hua, on Flickr
  47. 1 point
    Hello. I have this camera and I am very happy. The positive: 6K, different resolutions, raw, very good definition and colorimetry. The negative: poor battery life. No stabilization. I use it in a Nauticam underwater housing with a Canon 16/35 2.8 lens and a nauticam 180 glass dome. also a canon 100 macro with saga front. The positive: It can hold a 500g Sansung ssd disc inside and thus save on expensive cards. It also has a compartment for lithium batteries that connects to the camera and thus have more than an uninterrupted hour of operation under water. The underwater housing is superbly designed and you can access all the necessary functions underwater. The only negative is that it is not a stabilizer camera and you have to have good diving and filming technique. For macro I use articulated arms as a tripod and they go very well! 6K in fulframe and with a 100 macro is very shallow depth of field, but the macros are incredible. It is an expensive equipment, but I guarantee that with 6k I will have equipment for a long time. Any questions I will be happy to help you, since I also had many uncertainties before deciding to buy a new equipment. All the best!
  48. 1 point
    Man-o-man, that is one excellent video. I really enjoyed it and now I want to go there! Your work is outstanding...
  49. 1 point
    I went to Cabo at the end of May for a dive trip to Socorro. Several people from our boat got hit by the tax, some up to $400 for high end Nauticam housings and Ports. I managed to get through with out getting caught. I tried to be a bit sneaky and it worked. I was carrying two rebreathers and my DSLR gear. I put the rebreathers in pelican cases, and packed my camera gear in a standard suitcase. I went through the customs gate first with the two pelican cases with just dive gear. Of course the agents zeroed in on the Pelicans and had my open them. Meanwhile my wife slipped through unbothered with the suitcases full of camera gear.
  50. 1 point
    I think it's very common/natural for people to curious about what other accomplished shooter used, and it always come across as the "easy way out". Just like in photography world that people always say "Full frame is best", hence it created this obsession of gear hog and constant camera upgrade. Personally I don't care about what camera other people use, because I have my own set of budget, I have the GH4 and decide that the LX100 is better for me to use UW because of my budget, and my diving experience is more suitable for a more compact set up. These days I just focus on the quality of content and stuffs that I capture. I come to term that it's better for me to spend the money on more exotic dive trip instead of having nice gear but can't travel anywhere

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