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  1. 4 points
    Hi everyone, New member here, thought I'd introduce myself with some shots from my home country, Scotland. These recently featured in the Dive Photo Guide photographer of the week. Having some trouble linking images from elsewhere so here's a link to the article and a small sample. http://www.divephotoguide.com/underwater-photography-special-features/article/underwater-photographer-week-mark-kirkland
  2. 4 points
    Nice images, Adam. However, obviously it all depends upon one's situation and subject matter. Not everyone shoots large subjects in open water with artificial lighting. I'm normally shooting small subjects in shallow freshwater streams with natural lighting. And yes, many of my wide angle shots could not be gotten with a large dome. Here are a few examples with subjects less than an inch from a 4" dome (closer than a large dome could get) and/or with the housing pressed against the stream bottom (lower than a large dome could get):
  3. 3 points
    Hello, here you are some pics of my last trip to El Hierro, in the Canary Islands, Spain. SVF11012021047 SVF05012021092 SVF05012021016
  4. 3 points
    I am really happy with the Backscatter Mini + Snoot. It's the best addition to my camera gear in years. Previous snoot setups I tried were frustrating and difficult to aim and this is a relative breeze. Highly recommended. Here is an example shot of a Pacific Spiny Lumpsucker. Maybe 2-3cm long, shot with D850 & 105mm, Backscater Mini Snoot, SubSea +5 closeup lens. I don't love the "spotlight" effect of a bright circle on black so I add a little fill from an Inon 330 at about 1/8 power off to left the side. [ f/18, 1/250th, ISO 100]
  5. 3 points
    One of the main reasons for me to use small dome ports is because the water is too shallow to use a large one. I have used the Seacam fisheye macro port FMP and wide port WP for this with the Nikkor 10.5, 16, and 8-15mm and Canon 8-15mm fisheye lenses. The WP is not made for fisheyes but when the fisheye lens used with it is focused very close, it will not vignette. The WP is also the least expensive Seacam dome and given that the ports are often scratched by rocks being tossed at them by my photo subjects need to be considered expendable. First attached shot shows a Sockeye Salmon pair preparing to spawn. The other pix show Sockeye Salmon gathered at the mouth of a creek located about 2 km away from where I am sitting. They are gathering here prior to final maturation to beach spawn in the lake around the mouth of the creek. I planned on staying here several hours to do the shoot..... The creek as you can see is very shallow - Pink Salmon spawn here. Even the FMP is too big to fully submerge at some some spawning locations in the creek. I have used this creek to do a number of tests over the years (because it is so close and fairly clear). Another type of small dome port about the same diameter as the port mount so looks like cylinder with a dome on the end made by Seacam was simply called dome port DP. They came in various lengths for different lenses. Alex Mustard mentioned a similar Subal port here a number of years ago. I have used my DP with macro focusing wide angles (the now long-discontinued 20-28mm f/1.8 Sigmas and the more recent Tamron 28/1.8 lens) and the Nikkor 60mm macro lens. The 20 in Nikon mount was used quite a bit with the D2X (i.e. APS-C or DX). I also have this in Canon mount but have only used it with the superdome (and 1D series full frame cameras). There is a curved field so smaller apertures should be used. In my experience the 60 macro with a DP is much better than using a flat port other than for night photography. I shot quite a few pix with this dome and the 60 near Kauai in 2019.
  6. 3 points
    Happy holiday and hopefully more diving in 2021 with better images for all wetpixel members. Great resource, information and help here for which thanks to all. Have a great 2021
  7. 2 points
    I post more photos from El Hierro, in the Canary Islands, Spain. I really beatiful island to go such in the water as in land. SVF04012021050 SVF05012021053 SVF10012021089
  8. 2 points
    San Jose Del Cabo . I just landed at SJD (Cabo San Lucas, Mexico) I thought it would be beneficial to the group to share my experiences. First off I am very a very experienced traveler and have cleared Mexican Customs at least 30 times. This time was just a bit different and not just because of Covid-19. At my check-in in the US I was directed to fill out an online questionnaire about my Covid-19 possible exposure. It also asked for what seat you were in and contact info (email and phone). I assume that this was for Contact tracing. I filled it out and took a screen cap of the QR code generated at the end of the questionnaire (thinking I might need it later).Waiting for the flight was uneventful. There was a whole lot of plexiglass up everywhere and not may stores or restaurants open in the terminal. There was a disturbing amount of single use plastics being utilized in the airline club (I asked the bartender to fill up my water bottle with her beverage gun and instead sh gave me 5 small plastic cups of water to pour into my bottle. Mask use was a high priority on the American Airlines flight that I was on. The person behind me was reminded twice to where his mask. Once off the plane we we all put onto a shuttle bus for the short trip to the terminal. The Bus was not as packed as some others I have been on, but there certainly wasn't any real attempt at social distancing. Prior to getting into the Immigration hall we had to fill out a form asking us if we had knowingly been exposed to Covid-19. This form asked me the same questions that I had answered on the online questionnaire. I filled it out and handed it to the agent. He looked it over, signed it, and handed it back to me. No one else ever asked for it. It wasn't scanned in or anything....so I'm, not really sure what the point was, but as a frequent traveler to Mexico, I am not surprised by this. After collecting my bags I headed to the Customs hall. When I handed in my customs form the agent asked me about my bags (3 checked bags and 2 carry on). She asked me what was inside the bags and I answered, truthfully, saying "1 is scuba gear, another is clothes and the last is for my camera." She asked how many cameras I had and I told her, truthfully, that I was traveling with 2. She then specifically asked me if I had a housing. I said "yes" (no point in lying about it). I was directed to a separate table in the hall where my carry-on bag and my UW camera bag were inspected. The Agents seemed only to be interested in my housing (a 4-5 year old Subal). They asked me very specific questions. They asked me how old it was and how much I could sell it for (not how much was it worth or how much I paid for it). When I was asked about how much I could sell if for I laughed and said that IF I could find someone to buy it I wouldn't expect to get more than $450USD for it. I asked them about what was going on and they informed me that since the value of what I was bringing in exceeded $500USD I was subject to a 19% duty. I told them that it wasn't for resale and I was going to be leaving with it. They said that it didn't matter. In my mind I see the dollars adding up (we all know how much a full UW photo kit costs). The agents stated that "it's not that much, don't worry". He went on to say that they just assume that the rest of the gear is valued at $500 and so I would only be responsible for the 19% on the housing (valued by me at $450). When i pushed back on this He changed the value to $350USD and informed me that I would have to pay around $57USD for the duty. Doing a quick time vs. money evaluation I agreed. I was then led into an office where a woman charged my credit card the $57USD. She also recorded the serial number off of my housing. I was given a receipt and a form (on which was a description of my housing and the serial number) that had both been stamped with some sort of official looking seal. The woman expressly told me to retain the receipt and the form as this was a one time fee and that as long as I had the same housing and the form, I would not be charged again. I repeated it back to her just to make sure that nothing was lost in translation. I then collected my bags and went outside the arrivals hall to brave the gauntlet of taxi drivers. Throughout the the entire experience the Mexican Customs agents were professional and polite. I have travelled in Mexico for years and am have had experiences with the "mordida" (bribe) and this had none of the feel of that. While I didn't like having to pay more money, it is their country and their rules. I felt the agent worked with me a bit and wasn't trying to take advantage of the situation; I travel with 4 strobes that are at least $800 a piece, never-mind the multiple dome ports and all the rest of the stuff that goes along with this crazy hobby. My advice to anyone dealing with a similar situation is to remain calm, remain respectful, and work with the agents to get to a reasonable number. Do not attempt to lie or conceal what you are traveling with...it won't end well for you. I hope this helps other travelers. Oh, I also asked my driver and the management at the hotel I am staying at prior to departure about what they plan to do about the upcoming Covid testing requirements for people returning to the US via air and they said that all of the hotels and resorts are working to have onsite rapid Covid testing for guests that conforms with the requirements of US health officials. I have faith that the Mexican toursim industry will be on top of this latest change. Stay safe.
  9. 2 points
    Lots of good advice here. I’ll add based on experience an earlier E-PL series camera then moving up the ladder of various OM-D cameras. If you want a single lens and port that does it all, there will be compromises. Wet lenses will improve them, just don’t cut corners by buying the cheapest ones as some are close to worthless. The 14-42mm EZ lens is crap in my opinion, unsharp and low contrast even on land, so I would insist on the much better 14-42 mark II but it may not work with the housing you are looking at. The Olympus 12-50mm zoom is a better lens choice with true macro capability but requires a much more expensive housing, port, and gear. I have no experience with that brand of housing, but the difference between the Olympus polycarbonate housing and the Nauticam housings are night and day in terms of ergonomics. On land, the E-PL cameras are great for travel and all-purpose use with plenty of room to grow as a photographer. And yes, 16 MP is fine. Shoot RAW from the beginning (save JPEGs too for quick sharing) and start learning how to process them in your favorite software package. Have fun!
  10. 2 points
    Alex, it would be interesting to see a similar analysis and graph done for a fisheye lens.
  11. 2 points
    I got my a7s3 and Nauticam gear just before a big dive trip in the Caribbean in late November. Shot three Sony Profiles settings, sLog3/SGamut3.Cine, HGL3 and No profile. File format:XAVC S 4K at 60fps10 bit 4:2:2 for all profiles. Customize the C4 function for white balance (So I could execute WB in right hand UW and hold Grey slate and later chip chart with left hand). I used official Sony LUTs and Leeming LUTs in post for evaluation of clips. Will edit in FCP and finish color in Resolve. It was a well balanced neutrally buoyant rig with Keldan 4x Lights, red and blue filters were consistently used. I was hoping because of the lowlight capability of this sensor to shoot with no lights so as to not scare off fish. In field evaluation I sensed that just a bit of light made a huge difference in color accuracy and saturation. So after a 3 dive and no lights I shot the remaining 20+ dive with light. My takeaways: 1- Love the setup, would choose sLog3 if time in post permits CC, If not post time then I would go with no profile. You lose 1 maybe 1.5 stops of latitude but generally clips were nicely saturated and accurate. I understand some people think the sony color science is to be avoided but I saw no issues. In also I preferred Sonys LUTs over Leeming LUTs for 90% of the shots. Whats my experience in Video color science? 40Plus years surface shooting and a successful life doing so. UW shooting is just my hobby, 2- I used SDHD cards for the XAVC s 4K file format and they bogged down a Late 2013 Mac Pro with 32GB Ram and top end graphics cards. Had to use proxy's to not go crazy in post. I did buy and have tested the new Sony CFExpress Tough card and "I think" it performs well enough to be able to avoid proxies in post. This is because the CPU has to do less calculations than with a codec that has more compression. I did a surface shoot yesterday (Birds in Flight) using sLog3 S&Q settings for 120fps with XAVC S I 4K and I filled a 160GB card in well, not very long. Luckily I had a laptop to download to continue shooting. Take Away 2.1 if you want 120FPS you better mean it! Or have lotsa expensive cards. Moving them into post and seeing performance will take place in a couple days (I hope). Apologies on long post, but a couple further observations. Cost, yea I'd say camera "May" be a1/3 of the get in the water costs. so, lights and floats, buy the best you can. Housings often are sacrificed if you go for a new camera, but odd note here, I have an a7R4 and it goes in the a7s3 housing. Most of the buttons on the top work but the only button on the back at seemed to work was the Disp button. I am exceptionally happy with this my 3rd rig. Should be able to last the rest of my life. Knock on wood!
  12. 2 points
    Crotch or butt d-ring are not a viable option because then the camera hangs below/behind you with no control. Crotch d-ring can be a temporary storing option if you are not using a dpv and you are midwater but again not really the best place. Options are left shoulder d-ring (can be problematic if you are carrying more deco stages and have to do gas switches or move tanks) or right shoulder d-ring. If you are trained in longhose management then there is no problem in deployment while having a camera there, you just have to make sure that the camera lanyard is long enough to allow you to push the camera under your arm but not too long to allow the camera to move around too much. In the picture you can see what I use. Gives me plenty of options to handle the camera. Happy to explain more if you want.
  13. 2 points
    I'm pro lanyard all the time. I clip on a coiled lanyard as soon as I splash. I have had to deal with critical safety and rescue scenarios more than once under water where there is no time for spare for the camera. Not having a lanyard already in place means you either don't deal with the emergency when needed most, or you lose the camera.
  14. 2 points
    @joanna_dives One quick addition on @TimG's great comments... I too went on the same journey. Z240 with the Retra LSD snoot - the offset light makes it that much more difficult to get the image you actually want. I found myself settling for imperfect shots either because of time or frustration. Switched to Retra (Pro) strobes - huge improvement. However, I didn't stop there - the Backscatter Mini Flash & snoot combo looked really interesting - not because it would offer anything more than the Retra LSD snoot (which is excellent), but because it was smaller, and would allow me to potentially dive with my regular macro set up and bring this along as another option on the same dive (w/out having to fiddle with putting a snoot on/taking it off). The pandemic has made it harder to get field time with this setup, but I was able to use it on several dives at the end of last year - from those handful of dives, I'm sold. Very useful specifically on macro-oriented dives where you may want snoot capability and 2 flash macro (non-snooted). The mini flash & snoot combo is small enough to stay mostly out of the way when not needed, and then available when you want it.
  15. 2 points
    Here is an example I shot last week with a similar setup to yours, using a D850 / 15mm Sigma FE / 170mm port + Inon 330 strobes. The left strobe arm is 12+16+8 and the strobe is pointed inward from the upper left. The right strobe is closer in to the right an pointed forward. ISO 250 / F9 / 1/80s Left strobe is -1.5ev, right is -3ev. The water conditions in Puget Sound were relatively good by local standards at 25 foot visibility but this is heavily particulate water. I did not do any Spot removals of backscatter, but I did bring down to 0 to the Clarity/Texture (midtones) of the green water using LR. You can see there is hardly any distracting backscatter in the image. The point of using a lower strobe power is that you don't illuminate the backscatter nearly as much in poor clarity water. You can boost exposure in post processing to get the brightness you want for the image, selectively if needed. I shot at -1.5ev & -3ev which is about 1/3rd and 1/8th power for the two strobes. If I shot in these dark and chunky waters at Full or Half power the image would be blasted out. If you want a darker background use a faster shutter speed. 1/125 or 1/200. The strobes don't impact open water background color. Shutter speed controls ambient light.
  16. 1 point
    Hey guys, I'm getting into underwater macro and super macro photography. I've done many dives with GoPro but have not taken any UW photography with a proper rig. I want a camera that takes excellent photo on land (significantly better than iPhone) and great macro photos underwater. I'd also like occasionally record UW video too. The rig should be fairly small and packable for travel. After looking into so many options starting from compact cameras to mirrorless with the helps of other members on my other thread, I'm leaning toward the Sony A6400 because the reviews for on land and underwater are great. There are a variety of housing options available. I can either shoot with the 16-50 mm lens and macro wet lens then upgrade to the Sony 90mm lens later. The price is not more and the size is not significantly larger than compact rig. What do you think about the A6400 setup for my use case? Could someone share their experience with their A6400 rig? Thanks
  17. 1 point
    I use the optical view finder with a snoot. The one tip I will offer is to use a Red focus light when using a snoot. The aiming light gets lost if using a white focus light, and if it's too dark you can't autofocus. A red focus light will allow you to see the aiming light. Other than that it just takes a bit of practice. Get your snoot lined up on a rock or some stationary target before taking a real shot. I tend to eyeball the scene from above the camera and then go to the viewfinder to fine tune.
  18. 1 point
    Hi Phil, thanks for your info, appreciated. Some of the Seahorses here (Perth, Australia) are on the taller side (10cm ish) and I would compare that with the size of the crab. Compared with the 90mm this lens would get me closer to the subject, which is what I'm looking for. I'm happy to use MF/DMF and Focus Tracking, that works for me most of the times, except if there is to much surge. Agree with the 90mm lens for macro/super macro. ;-) Yes, I use the same, but for to get the extra magnification, if I want (I know, could just crop the larger full frame picture). Very interesting to hearing about this, as this seems to be as well a good option for this purpose. Thanks Phil, good info for me to think about. With the price of both lenses not being astronomical, they both might be good options. Just need to look into port configurations (thanks for the info on this) as (obviously) want to try to keep the number of ports/extension rings to a minimum. Cheers!! - Y
  19. 1 point
    The Canon RF 15-35mm is probably the lens you want to first consider if looking native. From some tests I've seen its sharper than the EF 16-35mm II. I'm not sure the Ikelite 8' dome would do it justice though. You might want to upgrade to one of the higher end housings to get a glass dome. However the cost of the RF 15-35mm plus a nice glass dome port would put you in the price range of a WACP-1. I have the Nauticam R6 housing and it was almost like a research project deciding on all the settings I wanted. Not all the buttons and controls are necessary underwater. Beyond the choice of optics, things to consider on a new housing is how easy it is to change batteries, SD cards, ports and lenses. It makes a difference when doing 4 dives a day on a long trip.
  20. 1 point
    I cannot contribute much - Since I am considering to acquire an additional system, I read posts in different photography forums on the new mirrorless cameras and the performance of adopted lenses of the old systems (no new mirrorless system has, at the moment, enough lens choice of native lenses): Normally adopting lenses with adapter, even from the same company, slows down AF. This is the case with Sony and especially Nikon (there is a tread in this forum that the Tokina 10-17mm fisheye does even not work with the new Z bodies). Generally the slowed down AF (in case it works) is not so much a problem with WA(?) and fisheye lenses, but becomes a real problem with longer focal ranges macro lenses... Adopting Canon EF lenses to RF mount cameras seems to be an exception, there are many, many treads and tests in the internet where users state that their (modern) EF-lenses work better and focus faster on the new RF bodies, especially R6 and R5, when compared to performance on the original DSLR bodies for which the lenses have been designed for (the dual pixel AF system of Canon seems to be the most advanved technology at present; The CAF systems of Panasonic or Nikon cannot compete). Look here, just as an example, there are many more similar treads/reports in the internet: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4547484 As far as I am concernded, I think I will go with Canon and use the EF lenses I already have (8-15mm fisheye; 100mm Macro IS L). I expect them to work at least as good as if they were native on a EF DSLR body, but this still has to be shown... Wolfgang
  21. 1 point
    Selling this great Nauticam kit as a package for 2000.00. Used for approximately 50 dives. Thoroughly soaked an rinsed after each trip. Never been flooded. Polycarbonate window on housing back has minor scratches that I don’t see in the water. Great little set up, 40% off of MSRP. na-17424p: Nauticam NA-RX100VII Pro Package (Inc. flexitray, right handle, two mounting balls, M14 vacuum valve, shutter extension) na-38703: Nauticam N50 Short Port with Bayonet Mount to use with WWL-1 na-83201: Nauticam Wet Wide Lens 1 (WWL-1) 130 Degree FOV na-83225: Nauticam Buoyancy Collar for WWL-1 Lens na-83224: Nauticam Hard Cap for WWL-1 Lens Spare O-rings Allen key Set Padded Travel Case for NA-RX100Vll Padded Travel Case for WWL-1 William@birdsinflight.gallery
  22. 1 point
    The 8mm Fisheye is a good choice. Alternatively you can cover the inbetween buy using a 14-42mkII lens and using the WWL-1 Wetlens. I'd prefer the Fisheye for two reasons: It's lighter and it's wider which will be useful for most shots. I would not bother with any of the larger domes and rectilinear wides (8-18mm, 7-14mm etc). I also don't think lenses like the 12-40 PRO or similar are that useful underwater. People seem to look at lenses with a completionist mindset, trying to cover all the focal lengths, but it's really not necessary to cover everything from the start. WWL-1 or Fisheye is the choice you have really.
  23. 1 point
    About 7 years ago I wanted to buy the Zen 230 glass dome but I was assured that the Nauticam glass was the same, so I bought it. To check, I took a template of the internal radius of my Nauticam dome to Bangkok to see if Douglas Seifert's Zen dome was the same. They seemed identical. A +2 B&W dioptre will improve corners, but also reduce the angle of view. I found I didn't need it with the 230 glass and Nikon 16-35. If the corners are a problem I would try the Sea & Sea Internal Correction lens. If I was doing this again, I would try the Sea & Sea first with the 8.5" acrylic dome which is so much lighter, cheaper and easier to polish if necessary.
  24. 1 point
    I bought two D3s last year, and got the S&S fibre cables at the same time. Pleased to confirm it works well (as claimed by S&S) with the Nauticam Oly trigger, which has white light LEDs. I do make sure to keep my sensor windows and cables scrupulously clean just in case, and I'm careful about how I pack the cables to avoid wear and tear as they aren't cheap!
  25. 1 point
    I've been playing around with compacts underwater over last few years and have recently made up my mind to upgrade. I do 98% stills (both macro and wide angle) and coming from compacts, the next logical step would be micro 4/3,...., from what I've read and researched. I've always been a big Olympus fan, I love the OM-D series cameras but with the current Olympus situation, lack of local infrastructure and a major investment that must last and be adaptable to future upgrades, I've decided to go b@!!$ to wall and go full fame (go big or go home right. LOL) I really like the both the Nikon D850 and Nikon Z7, except for focus issues with the Z7 compared to the D850. I’m not really concerned about size and weight as majority of my diving is done in locations not requiring flying to get there. Nikon recently released the Z7 II with various improvements like the two EXPEED 6 processors, “which improves ….., including its buffer, autofocus, ….”. But nowhere have I been able to find any underwater reviews on the new Z7II. Has anyone been able to do some diving with the new Z7II and if so, how does it compare to its predecessor?
  26. 1 point
    Hello! Yes I bought the Gx9 and the Nauticam housing. Since I live in Hungary I haven't got the chance to dive with it so far. The battery life conserns a little . I dont have exact number, but with flash raised I guess max 150-200 pics.
  27. 1 point
    I will be sending Stuart some home made cables from 613 and 1000 core fibers as well as some 3 mm fibers that have good transmission as well. Bill
  28. 1 point
    I use both the Nauticam trigger for Sony & the S-TTL trigger made by Pavel (Disclaimer : i paid for it and am not affiliated with Turtle). With YSD2J strobes I never had any issue with the S-TTL and its battery lasts longer than I've ever needed (I charge it every 2 day of diving just in case but never ran out so far). I can't complain on that front. The trigger has worked great for me. As per fiber optics, I have built my own fiber optic cables to my Sea & Sea strobes. I 3D printed the Sea&Sea connector and plugged the optic fiber (3mm core/4mm diameter total) and this works flawlessly. Much more robust than the Nauticam ones
  29. 1 point
    Hi Tino, In case no one replies here, have a try with the French UW forum (forum-photosub.fr) - a lot of DIY homemade projects are posted there.
  30. 1 point
    Surely the 8-15 on an APS-C sensor makes it almost equivalent to the Tokina 10-17, which is desirable and useful, whereas on FF it has no more utility than a Sigma 15 fisheye unless you like gimmicks.
  31. 1 point
    Big shout-out to the guys at TRT Electronics for helping me with this same issue. I had been using a manual trigger the camera didn't recognize (and so it didn't apply the 160 restriction) for wide angle when trying to get sun-rays in the shot. I do not get the black bar using 200 or even 250 (Sony a6600). Anything above 250 does catch the curtain however. The trick is to enable wireless flash mode (WL) if using a hot shoe trigger.
  32. 1 point
    Worth a try. Thanks for your input!
  33. 1 point
    This cable gland brand is used in several rebreather. And I used in a couple of DIY projects. It exists in different diameter: http://www.rutab.com/products/cable-glands/cable-glands-brass/metric-thread/1470510
  34. 1 point
    Sure Sonia, here you go: Also, after inspecting the sealed hole in the housing, it appears that the Scigrip 16 may have produced a better bond to both the housing and the cables than the silicone did. So I might retract my previous statement and instead recommend using Scigrip 16 if you're wanting to go the sealant route. The downside is that if for some reason it didn't work out it would be very difficult to undo. Another simple/inexpensive idea worth looking into is to use an o-ring to create a seal between the cable and button hole. First you would measure the outside diameter of the cable and the inside diameter of the button hole with precision calipers. Then you would try to source an o-ring with a inner diameter slightly smaller than the cable diameter and an outer diameter slightly larger than the hole diameter so that it would create a seal when placed between them. You would also have to make some stops on the cable so that the o-ring couldn't slide out of the button hole. And for some safety margin, you could use several o-rings if the button hole is long enough. The nice thing about this option is that it is completely nondestructive and could easily be undone if it didn't work out.
  35. 1 point
    Mini-dome is my favourite dome. It’s all about getting close, then even closer, for eye-popping CFWA. IMHO.
  36. 1 point
    I use a more powerful focus light (Weefine 2300 (=Kraken)), mounted to the coldshoe of my housing. Very comfortable, but you need a TC with an internal light. In case you have a TC with phosphorescence, that you have to light from time to time with your dive light, it is not so comfortable any more as you have to turn the entire rig to make the display visible... It is also good to have a light that switches off automatically, when the flashes become active. In addition a switch opportunity to red light is versatile - I always switch from white light to red light in case I see some creature I want to photograph. In most cases, the red light does not irritate the animal and you can photograph it much easier, but one has to become used to framing in red light... Wolfgang
  37. 1 point
    Beautiful images, substantiating my plan to come this summer (in case corona will allow)... Wolfgang
  38. 1 point
    John I lost myself in this endless discussion. Which kind of dives do you do? Which kind of video productions are you after? Did you already shoot underwater video?
  39. 1 point
    Excellent condition Zen DP-170 Dome Port with Subal Type 4 Mount. Glass immaculate, only signs of use is a small scuff on the bottom edge of shade that’s inevitable from normal usage. Lightweight for travel at under 1kg / 2lb. Comes complete with Zen Neoprene Cover. Retails for €1160 / £930 selling for £700 / €780 ono. Shipping at buyers expense but not overly expensive from Thailand, via Tracked EMS via Thai Post. Excellent condition Zen DP-170 Dome
  40. 1 point
    A few images I shot on a short break at Heron Island Qld Australia It was great to see this anemone all balled up, it was a shame I couldn't hang around for the peak of action when both fish were out but it was a led dive and they left me behind as it was. Canon 5dmkiv with 8-15mm fisheye If I had my time again I would of dropped the power down a touch on the lower strobe. Blacktip reef shark, this was shot from above the water whilst standing on a jetty Canon 5dmkiv with 135mm f2 Green sea turtle from the Heron Bommie, If I had my time again I would of put my strobe in full rabbit ears position to get some flash on the turtle. This was shot freediving so a tad tricky to make too many adjustments Canon 5dmkiv with 8-15mm fisheye
  41. 1 point
    Today at "La Gravière du Fort", Alsace, France. Olympus EM1mkII and Olympus 8mm F1.8 fisheye. 1/160, f/10, iso 400 Picture taken from a depth of 10 meters. No crop. Will try to do more pictures when I will have time.
  42. 1 point
    Hi @PeteAtkinson, I think due to the reliability of Nauticam I'd prefer to only buy 1st party domes. Thanks for the offer however.
  43. 1 point
    Two Sea & Sea YS-D2 strobes in perfect condition; $950 for the pair; shipping free within continental US
  44. 1 point
    @lbedogni Some great advice already given, so I'll just add one thing: Are you shooting with any diffusers on your strobes? A diffuser will spread the z240 light out a bit more, lessening the impact of any hotspots.
  45. 1 point
    Great advise. I think Dave has a camera with larger sensor. For the smaller MFT (because of noise) it may be better not to increase ISO but instead increase shutter speed for more background illumination and, when strobe power is decreased, to increase aperture. Increased ISO with MFT only as the last measure, when aperture and shutter speed are already at their limits... Wolfgang
  46. 1 point
    I think it depends to a great extend on the camera and the lens... With EM1II and Zuiko 60mm (or, more seldom, Pana 45mm) macro I prefer CAF Wolfgang
  47. 1 point
    Well I actually had them quite a bit behind my dome, maybe I should try more.
  48. 1 point
    Strobe Position and Power Levels. You can try to reduce strobe power a bit, maybe bump up your ISO some. Simply having your strobes out to the side and angled outward a bit will probably expose well, but leave you with a flat image without texture or shadow. I tend use a really long set of arms and then rake the subject with one strobe pointed inward (on the side or top) between the subject and dome. The second strobe is usually at a lower power level at a more traditional position as a fill light. I rarely get much backscatter and the images have a much more lifelike dimensional look to them.
  49. 1 point
    Another great episode, thanks all around. Another tool for cleaning contacts is a wood pencil, use the eraser, it has saved me many times. I travel with an extra battery compartment cap for my Sea & Sea strobes. If the battery compartment floods the cap has a burst disc to relieve the pressure and prevent the sludge from being driven into the strobe. Brant Emery
  50. 1 point
    1/160s is indeed the sync speed limit for A6xxx cameras. Basically, the way it works is that the shutter curtain has two halves - the first half moves down to open the frame, then the second half follows it down to close it, then they both move back upwards to reset for the next shot. However, due to movement speed limitations, in order to produce exposures shorter than 1/160s, the second curtain starts closing the shutter before the first curtain has fully opened it, producing a strip of light that moves across the frame. This works with natural light, because it's 'always on' so to speak, but if a strobe fires with a partially exposed shutter, it will produce a partially exposed image, with a black band on top, bottom, or both. The only way to overcome this is to use high-speed sync, where the strobe flickers on and off at a very high speed (I've seen 40kHz quoted as a typical number) while the strip of exposure moves across the camera sensor. Unfortunately, besides severely curtailing the strobe's power output, this mode has extremely limited support among underwater equipment manufacturers. To date, the only strobe that I know of that supports it is Olympus UFL-2, which has long since been discontinued, and it only worked with supported Olympus cameras to begin with. The also discontinued Sea & Sea YS-250 Pro has an atypically long pulse length which can function as pseudo-HSS to some extent. Finally, the upcoming Retra Flash Prime and Pro claim support for HSS with a compatible trigger (i.e. you won't be able to make use of that mode when triggering off the camera flash), but these aren't available yet, and neither are compatible triggers. What problem are you trying to solve by going beyond 1/160s though? Since you're shooting with strobes, and the majority of your light comes from them, the actual effective exposure speed is usually equivalent to the strobe pulse length (about 1/320 at full power on Z-330, for example), not to shutter open time. If too much ambient light is getting through, you can just close the aperture and/or reduce ISO.

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