I rarely see any information on Easydive housings, so I thought I'd write about the one I just bought. (I'm not affiliated with Easydive.)
I currently use a Nimar housing for my Nikon D5300, with a wet lens (UWL-09) for wide-angle. I'd been frustrated with the soft corners of my wide-angle photos and was looking for a wide-angle dry dome. However, the Nimar has functioned... poorly... so I didn't want to further invest into that system. Plus, I plan on using it for deeper dives (60+ metres) which means a new system anyway.
My decision to buy an Easydive instead of, say, Nauticam, was that the housing allows you to change cameras without changing the housing. I'm planning a set of camera upgrades over the next few years and wanted to use the same housing instead of dropping 2k+ EUR housing-tax for each new camera. Since the cost of the Easydive was on par with any housing for a future camera (if not less!), I figured I could always change again if it didn't work out, eating the cost of any ports in the meanwhile.
I started with the Leo 3 Wi, as I plan on moving from DSLR Nikon cropped-sensor to mirrorless Sony full-frame, and this housing handles all of them. I started with the 240 mm dome and extension ring for my 10--20 mm lens, and also included the vacuum system, flash trigger, and mounting balls as necessaries.
Here's a size comparison between the Nimar and new Easydive. The housings themselves are about the same size, although the Easydive is much heavier being made of aluminium instead of plastic and anxiety. In the Nimar, the camera is connected to a plastic plate that inserts into the bottom. In the Easydive, the camera is connected to the baseplate seen in the following. Here's how the inside looks with the baseplate removed and battery disconnected (but standing alongside its slot).
When assembled, the camera goes on the baseplate, which inserts into the bottom of the housing. The battery is placed against some velcro on the right and plugs below. The camera connects to the housing computer by the two cables, with the third being the flash trigger. (I think it can handle the internal flash, but haven't tried.)
The buttons on the right side are used to interact with the camera. For my D5300, this includes the important aperture, ISO, shutter, and AF modes. Other models (like the Sony) have more functionality. The shutter release is another button on the front. All are easily operable with 5 mm wet gloves and dry gloves.
Let's start with cons. The housing's internal battery connects with velcro---it's hard to tell whether it's securely applied or not. Specifically for the D5300, the magnifier for the viewfinder as-is doesn't fit within the housing, though it might after some tweaking. There's no self-test for the moisture detector---I have no idea what it looks (or sounds) like when there's a leak.
The 240 mm dome doesn't lock into place, so I dive in fear of accidentally rotating the dome. That's not new, though, as I usually live in fear of jostling and scratching my domes. I'm pretty well-adjusted otherwise I guess? Apparently the 240 mm is special in that it doesn't lock---other ports and domes do.
The universal zoom ring (which slots into the zoom wheel seen in the above photo) uses a velcro system to tighten over a lens. This is fine I guess, but I'd have added more grip to the internal part of the ring so it doesn't slip if over- or under-zoomed. Some double-sided tape did the trick for me.
Everything works without any issue---I'm very happy with it! I'm not fond of face-plate clasps in general (I like the Nauticam wheel lock), but the Leo 3's are very sturdy. Buttons and wheels work flawlessly even at depth. Best yet, the company operator, Fabio, has taken time to help me directly with questions, and responds immediately to questions.
Diving with the Leo 3 Wi
...is more or less like with any housing. As it comes, the Leo comes with a metal tab on the left side, which I use to clip off. (After the first dive I realised that I should get a left-hand handle as well because I'm so used to holding two handles.) The 240 mm dome is hugely buoyant, even with an ankle weight wrapped around the extension ring. I'll need to tape weights directly to it for trim. Beside trim, it takes only a few styrofoam blocks to have the housing be neutral.
(Photo courtesy of Jasper Mulder.) Matching my hose colour and the housing's trimmings was unintentional. Or was it!?
If anybody has any questions I can answer as a user, I'll do my best to answer.