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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/18/20 in Posts

  1. 1 point
    Hello all, Manado and Lembeh, love them! 1. Nikon D750, Nauticam, Sigma 15mm, Zen 200mm dome 2. Nikon D750, Nauticam, Sigma 15mm, Zen 200mm dome 3. Nikon D750, 105mm VR, F4, 1/320 4. Nikon D750, 105mm VR, Nauticam SMC (Super Macro Convertor) F29, 1/200 5. Nikon D750, 105mm VR, Retra LSD Prime Snoot, F22, 1/200 6. Nikon D750, 105mm VR, F22, 1/10 7. Nikon D750, Meyer Gorlitz Trioplan, F2.8, 1/320 8. Nikon D750, 105mm VR, Nauticam SMC, F29, 1/200 9/10/11 Lens testing 9, nudibranch D750, 105mm macro 10 With SMC Nauticam (no crop 1:1)
  2. 1 point
    Haven't posted on here for a while but here's some footage I shot for the BBC which ended up as a digital piece on their website. Have a cuppa and enjoy for 10mins! https://www.roger-munns.com/relax-in-a-lake-full-of-jellyfish/
  3. 1 point
    Yes a good editor seems to make a big difference keep it up Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. 1 point
    This was my first project using Davinci Resolve and the editing and colour correction tools are so much more powerful than Premiere Elements. I still have lots to learn but I feel that this was a big step forward for me both technically and artistically. I appreciate the feedback!
  5. 1 point
    WACP continues to amaze. On my website I have a pic of a Caribbean Reef Shark and a couple of tiger sharks in b&w. Also just returned from Australia, have two grey nurse pics, aka sand tigers, as well as a leafy sea dragon all taken with the wacp. Headed back to Tiger Beach and Bimini end of February. Apologize for just now posting a follow up.
  6. 1 point
    Thanks, Caleb! I'd prefer to sell the whole package together if I can, but sure -- If I don't get any takers in a couple of days, You'll be #1 for the Sea & Sea strobe. Terrie
  7. 1 point
    best production so far Doug especially colours look much better
  8. 1 point
    The current issue of uwpmag.com has an image attached below using the Somy FE 90mm macro with the Aquatica +10 closeup lens which is designed for full frame cameras. I personally own the SMC-1 which I have used for several years and many of my super macro shots on full frame have been taken with that lens. In back issues at uwpmag.com you can find reviews for Saga +15 issue #76, Nauticam CMC-1 issue #84 and Inon UCL-167 issue #98. CMC 1 & 2 are designed for best results with consumer compacts and M43 cameras. APS-C and full frame would be better served using SMC-1 or 2. With CMC the #1 is the higher power and #2 is lower, it is the reverse with the SMC lenses. Saga is perhaps best with APS-C and smaller sensors as is the Inon UCL-167. Inon has a newer line of C/U lenses called UCL-67 M67 which are designed for full frame cameras. Dozens of other C/U lens manufactures are out there as well, hard to cover them all. I have reviewed Weefine/Kracken Sports 1000 and 3000 ring lights but none of their C/U lenses at this time.
  9. 1 point
    In general, there are too few reviews of Weefine lenses out there. I hear some good things, but there is no solid information. If you could review some, that would be much appreciated. Weefine is quite a bit cheaper than Nauticam.
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    The snoot comes with two aperture cards, one with round holes and one with oval holes. If you use the oval card you can change the shape of the light from round to elongated by turning the snoot while it is mounted on the Mini flash. The shape of the focusing lights should then be the same as the flash. This allows you to harden or soften the edges of the light for different lighting effects. I have not used the Retra snoot, but like you guys I have found the MF-1 to be the easiest snoot I have used.
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    Jaajaj noooo 300€ gracias crack
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    Yes they will work, that is the type of connector used on S&S strobes hence the name. Looks to me like these are in the wrong bag. INON uses a screw fitting at the strobe end which is bigger than the connections on your cables. This is the INON type connector: https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjq5f72z47nAhUV8XMBHR62DakQMwiHASgQMBA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.housingcamera.com%2Fid4748-inon-l-connector.html&psig=AOvVaw3B28qZu4oB4JX9C41NgsT-&ust=1579487590136915&ictx=3&uact=3 which is not what you have.
  16. 1 point
    I have not seen any. What you get out of the can is about as good as it is going to get. If you find a difference, I would appreciate knowing what you have found. Thanks
  17. 1 point
    Awesome stuff!!
  18. 1 point
    Most of this video is shot with sony FE 90mm + SMC-2. First time I used it. SMC-2 is no easy...
  19. 1 point
    F8 is more than adequate, I use f8 on m43 and don't want for depth of field. f8 is equivalent to f22 on full frame and f5.6 ~ f15 on a depth of field basis. I would go with f5.6 or less if you have enough depth of field at the wide end. The MP have little to do with sharpness, that is down to the quality of the lens. If you stop down too much you go into diffraction and sharpness actually suffers. These types of lenses are designed for peak sharpness in the f3.5 - 5.6 range about 2 stops down from wide open, quite unlike SLR lenses which peak at smaller apertures. If you use a dome port this changes of course as you deal with a virtual image. There are a couple of things working against you in the corners at wide angle, a natural tendency to soft corners with the lens and the flat port will add in aberrations at wide angles as well. If you look at tests wide angle sharpness peaks around f3 - 4.5 on the edges, the tele end is sharper towards f5 and has better corners. https://www.photoreview.com.au/reviews/advanced-compact-cameras/fixed-lens/canon-powershot-g7x-mark-ii/ Also the corners suffer from strong distortion correction in JPEG, turning it off in Raw conversions helps and won't cause issues with UW work, read this review: https://www.photoreview.com.au/reviews/advanced-compact-cameras/fixed-lens/canon-powershot-g7x-mark-ii/ under the optics tab. They specifically mention sharper corners with distortion correction turned off. Looking at your example I see it's 1/25 @ f6.3 ISO400. That image looks to be 100% flash lit So I think turning up the shutter speed would have little impact on exposure. That being the case you could increase flash power 1-2 stops to get to ISO200-100 and increase the shutter speed. Where shutter speed is important is when you have blue water as a background of course - in sunlit tropical waters 1/250 @ f5.6 ISO200 is a reasonable starting point for water exposure. If your subject is under exposed turn up the flash power.
  20. 1 point
    f/8 with your camera is like f/22 on a full frame you are at diffraction limit so from sharpness point of view the camera will perform much better at wider apertures in terms of sharpness. As your camera allows you a very fast shutter speed you can just increase that to 1/500 and more to create a dark background if needed. For portrait work f/4 or f/5.6 will be more than sufficient also in terms of depth of field or with wet lenses
  21. 1 point
    Yes this guy really is massive! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. 1 point
    Here is a short video showing all lighting situations with the same set up. As you will see the variations are what we all see. I find it acceptable.
  23. 1 point
    Thanks a lot for your feedback.
  24. 1 point
    Get a strobe. Start with one and begin to learn. You will not be happy with your photos otherwise. With a bit of practice you'll start to take some pictures that will be really great. Add a second strobe later on when you are ready for more dramatic shots.
  25. 1 point
    The HDR HLG video is here. Also realised HLG is not that popular in US so majority of people will be given a standard SDR version
  26. 1 point
    I have recently been up to no good in my wife's soaker tub. (I live a long way from the ocean) I tested the Nikon 8-15 Fisheye and Nikon 20mm f/1.8. My goal was to assess the Seacam Superdome vs 8 inch glass Subal FE port with differing extensions. The Subal port chart calls for a 20 mm extension, as does Seacam. Adam Hanlon reported using a 30mm extension with the Superdome when testing the 20mm f/1.8. (Not sure where he got his secret sauce.) I used the D850 in Nauticam with the appropriate port adapters. My results showed no clear difference between the two ports with the 8-15mm (no big surprise) but images with both lenses were sharper with a longer extension (33mm) with the Subal dome. There was minimal vignetting with the 8-15, and none with the 20mm lens. I purchased a 28mm ring for Subal/3 and got similar results to the 33mm ring, but without vignetting. The 20mm rectilinear performed quite poorly below f/11 and was marginal (by Nikonos standards) at f/16. That is the smallest aperture on that lens. It performs well centrally, and would be OK with blue water at the edges. No diopter was used. The 20mm lens did perform much better with the Superdome, and 20mm extension, although not great. Same conclusion as above. The 8-15 was good in both ports, with some improvement with the 28mm extension over the 20mm with the Subal port. I did not test the Superdome at longer extensions. Circular images where good with both ports, and also showed vignetting at 33mm extension, but not 28mm on Subal Conclusion: The 8-15 performed well in all setups, somewhat improved with the 28mm extension. The 20mm lens was marginal in performance with the Subal dome and acceptable with Superdome. Probably not worth the extra effort. The point of all this was to decide whether the Superdome was worth humping around the world with it's size and weight. I concluded that apart from over/unders there was not much advantage to me. I think in future I will leave my Superdome at home.
  27. 1 point
    The Port chart is here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1q81PhYG0_Jdww4I6lycnwBoB_EOFEm8M/view The WWL is also an option for Sony: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzggKvdoNvhkY1ktVEFBbkpuSzQ/view As I recall Nauticam specifically stated that fast lenses could not be used as there were limitations on front element diameter of the lens.

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