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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/19/21 in Posts

  1. 1 point
    Hey guys! My name is Tom Park and i'm a Dive Master and Pro Underwater Photographer from Australia. I get asked this all the time so I made a video with my top 5 tips and tricks to improve your UW photos. I hope you all enjoy and learn something from this Happy shooting! Tom
  2. 1 point
    I bought the kit beginning of 2020..I took it with me for one week trip and then the pandemic hit. It hasn't been used ever since and since I have no clue when I will be able to travel to the ocean again I'll try to sell al this gear to some one that can actually put it to use. This is what it is included: Nauticam NA Sony A7Riv and A9ll with M14 Vacuum Valve ll. NA N100 to N120 35.5 mm Port adaptor with zoom/focus nob NA Mounting ball set for tripod N100 Macro Port 110 for Sony FE 90 mm NAExtension ring 30 with lock NA N120 140 mm Optical Glass Fish Eye Dome port with removable shade for Canon 8-15 mm fisheye lens (the dome was bought used but in mint shape) Turtle Smart TTL trigger for Sony Noodilab Moby Back Magic Close-up Diopter All these retails in the store for around $6800 USD plus applicable taxes but I'm willing to let it all go for only $5100 USD plus shipping from Canada. This represents around $1700 savings for this in like brand new condition kit and for now I will prefer to sell it as a package. I do have the Camera body with around 4000 shutter count bought beginning of 2020, a Canon 8-15 mm in awesome condition, Metabones Mark 4 adapter from Sony to Canon, a Sony 90 mm F/2.8 macro lens that I can sell if interested . I will try to post some pics but sometimes it doesn't work very well for me and I can always send you more pics upon request.
  3. 1 point
    I recently did a review on this, explaining in detail which one to go for. Find it here
  4. 1 point
    The Sony A1 has a dual dial on the left top side of the camera which controls the frame rate (single, 10 frames, etc) with the top dial and the AF setting (AF-S, AF-C, etc) on the bottom dial. The top dial has a push button that needs to be depressed while the bottom dial has the push from the side lock like the new A7 IV. In the Nauticam NA-A1 housing the spring loaded lever that lifts above the camera when it is installed in the housing and then drops into place over both camera dials. This control lever simply keeps both push buttons depressed and controls the focus mode while a second dial on the top back half of the housing controls the drive mode. I would expect a simpler single control like the focus lever control for the A7 IV to switch between shooting modes. Photos of the control lever below. When the Sony A7 III was introduced almost four years ago it became the best selling full frame camera ever made (both DSLR and mirrorless) and propelled Sony to the top of the mirrorless camera market. It was also became very popular as an underwater system and remained one of the top U/W systems. The A7 IV will be one of the best choices in the underwater market for a verity of reasons including overall camera speed, image quality V. rivals and much more. It is sad that at least in the US the A7 IV is only being sold as a kit with the old Sony FE 28-70mm lens and not the excellent 28-60mm sold as a kit with the Sony A7C. The 28-70 only works with the Nauticam WACP while the 28-60 will work with both WACP and WWL-1B both at considerably different price points. This is a camera that many will be eager to review, myself included.
  5. 1 point
    Focus Map is like a more advanced version of Focus Peaking as it overlays the image with colour according to the focus. The point of focus is clear while the area in front of the point of focus is red and the area behind is blue. The size of the clear zone varies depending upon the selected aperture, helping the photographer to visualise the depth of field. Check this link for a visual representation of it.
  6. 1 point
    The dial has a button in front you have to push in order to move it. Same as the A1 and the Nauticam housing works just fine. There is a small lever that you have to engage with that button before you close the housing.
  7. 1 point
    Power, for wide angle you need lots of photons. Think about GN. The published specs for both this strobe and the Inon S2000 is 20 (above water). This means that for UW use a real GN is around 10 (less in murky water). SO with a GN of 10 you can use the GN formula (guide number = distance * F-stop) to see that with a GN of 10 and an f-stop of 5.6) you can light something 1.8 meters away. Not very far or very wide. That is why wide angle guys use much bigger strobes. Bill
  8. 1 point
    I think the issue should be less about camera bodies and more about lenses. If there was a FF equivalent of the Tokina 10-17 for Z cameras, then switching would be a no-brainer. The 8-15 circular fisheye is hardly more useful than the Sigma 15mm on full frame but much more expensive. On a crop sensor Z50 it has a useful field of view akin to the Tokina 10-17 but has to be used with an FTZ adapter. I think we are more likely to get an adapter for screw focus lenses like the Tokina than a full-frame 10-17 equivalent, sadly. The brief lag between looking through the viewfinder and it turning on is my biggest irritation with mirrorless.
  9. 1 point
    I can see why they did it - it requires the least possible space inside the housing, and doesn't use any electronic components that need power and control. This is actually the reverse of what you'd want. This device connects to a Wi-Fi network and downlinks it to its Ethernet port. It's what you'd use if your camera did not have WiFi connectivity but rather only an RJ45 port, and you wanted to link it to a WiFi network. If you want to bridge your camera's WiFi to an Ethernet link to the surface, you need a WiFi access point that is small enough to fit into the housing and is powered by PoE (Power over Ethernet). I'm not sure such a device exists, access points tend to be pretty large. If I were you, I'd look into getting the camera's Ethernet link working properly.
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    Off-camera strobes are very common in UW shooting, especially in cave and wreck photography. Some strobes have built in slave sensors, while others require an add-on sensor. This is preferred as the slave strobe doesn't need to be "looking" at the camera. Many folks are using video lights over strobes for these kinds of shots since it's simpler to preview the shot. As for gear recommendations, I am most familiar with the Ikelite offerings and they have a remote sensor for slave activation. If you're looking to trigger land strobes remotely, you can use a Pocket Wizard to do that. Aquatica makes a housing for it as well. https://aquatica.ca/technical-lighting-control/water-wizard/ Good luck!
  12. 1 point
    NA N100 to N120 35.5 mm Port adaptor with zoom/focus nob sold!
  13. 1 point
    @elmelodico I loved the Sola Pro 15K so much I ended up pulling the trigger and getting a second one. The ergonomics of the on/off switch and brightness lever, paired with the oled screen make it super easy to know how bright each light is and how much runtime I have left. I usually don’t run them both at full 15K brightness and run them between 7500-10K each so that I can get a full two dives in, with some spare time. I don’t think there’s a better bang for buck when you compare dollar - lumen vs other lights like Keldan. One note, I have scratched up the plastic cover on the fronts, but those are removable so I would imagine I could purchase replacements from L&M, but it honestly doesn’t affect the light output so I haven’t felt the need.
  14. 1 point
    I have a Canon R5, which I'm currently using with the 16-35 F4 EF lens via control ring adapter, and anxiously awaiting availability of the new Canon 14-35 RF F4 lens. It's small, light, and looks to perform rather well... and would give you a great zoom between 14 and 35... Which seems to really cover the bases for what you need. Also, if you're looking to save money, you could go the route I'm going and get the Ikelite 200DL housing for the R5... It'll end up costing you about $2500 for the housing, extension, 8" dome port, and zoom gear... That's a HECK of a lot less expensive than other manufacturers, and IMO, every bit as serviceable. I'm a huge fan of the R5... the autofocus and eye tracking smokes anything else out there, the 4K 120fps and 8K video recording are incredible, and the dynamic range and internal stabilization give you a huge level of "forgiveness" for low light situations. Just my 2 cents!
  15. 1 point
    In this review of the Keldan Spectrum SF-2 filter I am giving you my reasons as to why you need an underwater red filter for your underwater camera system!
  16. 1 point
    Cratena Pregrina, Ifach Rock, Spain @wetdreamsphoto Fujifilm X-T3 + Fujinon 80mm macro into Nauticamhousing + 2x Backscatter MF1
  17. 1 point
    I'll be posting the pictures I get with my actual system, Fujifilm X-T3 into Nauticam housing. Please, feel free to criticize the pics. Flabellina Affinis, Ifach Rock, Spain. Fujifilm X-T3 + Fujinon 80mm macro + Nauticam housing + 2x Backscatter MF1 @wetdreamsphoto
  18. 1 point
    Flabellina Affinis, La Llosa-Benidorm, Spain Fujifilm X-T3 + Fujinon 80mm macro + Nauticam housing + 2x Backscatter MF1 @wetdreamsphoto
  19. 1 point
    The Tooke cables are fine but at $30 with shipping a bit more expensive than making your own. Of course making your own has a fun quotient that should not be discounted. Bill
  20. 1 point
    The Asahi multi-core are the most bend resistant especially compared to single core fibers. Elias and I will argue politely about this until we are both dead. A lot depends on your use. For using with a camera's built in flash and for manual mode (non-TTL) then any old fiber will mostly do especially for Inon strobes that are simple to trigger. For LED triggers then multi-core fibers do indeed work more reliably as many people have demonstrated here on Wetpixel by buying a new fiber when the old ones didn't work. For LED with TTL then multi-core gets even a bit better and if you are trying to run TTL on a S&S strobe you need all the oomph you can get. The length of the fiber connector that I use (like in the photo) is just under 24 mm (23.8 or so) if that helps. In my hands at least I see no difference between the hand made 1 mm 613 fibers and the commercial 1.5 mm coils in terms of triggering S&S YS D1,2,3, or Inon S2000, Z200, Z240 and Z330, Backscatter mini) from the Nauticam LED trigger for the OLY Em1-II. Bill



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