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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/22/20 in Posts

  1. 1 point
    pic of 105 behind DP-122, there is maybe 1" clearance when on a old N90 Nikon (35mm setup) Pics of DP-122
  2. 1 point
    Greetings from the Mayan Underworld Some nice Light reflections while diving in each Cenote Jardin del Eden Cenote, Mexico Taj Ma Ha Cenote, Mexico Last edited: A moment ago Find Xterrapixel Xterrapixel on Flickr Xterrapixel on Twitter Xterrapixel on YouTube
  3. 1 point
    "I don't know why my housing flooded, I clean and grease all the O rings before every dive"
  4. 1 point
    Hello Mr.Joss, Thanks for sharing your experience. My setup is Nauticam housing for A7RIII + Canon fisheye 8-15 + extension + 140mm fisheye dome port = 800 g YS-D3 x2 = -50 g Weefine 2300 focus light = 250 g Total = 1000g + ~500g for 7 clamps and 2 arms I think I will stick with only fisheye setup, I'm not a professional photographer and I'm not used to shoot macro shots. I wish I will buy Nauticam diameter 70 x 250 mm carbon fiber floats x2 (buoyancy = 520 g each ) and weigh it underwater. After that I will fine tune the buoyancy with high density foam or maybe buy small floats.
  5. 1 point
    Update after many many emails I got paid.
  6. 1 point
    Honestly, it isn't that complicated... Looking through my A6300 menus, I have, among those that are relevant: Quality: RAW - there is no real reason to shoot JPEG underwater Drive mode: single - can't really shoot bursts with strobes and pop-up flash, maybe with a LED trigger and low power Flash mode: rear curtain sync Focus mode: DMF for macro, AF-C for wide-angle Focus area: Center AF illuminator: Off AF drive speed: Fast AF track sens: High ISO: 100 for macro, auto 100-800 for wide-angle Metering mode: Center White balance: Auto SteadyShot: On Zebra: Off - it's useful for video, kind of useless for stills with strobes Grid line: Rule of 3rds Auto review: 2sec - wish there was a 1sec option Peaking level: low for macro, off for wide-angle Peaking color: yellow Live view display: Setting Effect OFF - this is important, as if you turn it on, camera will focus with aperture at your set setting rather than wide open. With it off, it will let it maximum light for focusing, and close the aperture as you take the shot. Priority set in AF-S: AF Priority set in AF-C: Balanced emphasis AF w/shutter: On, but I use a trigger extension. If you want to use back-button focus, this goes to off. Exp.comp.set: Ambient & Flash Monitor brightness: Sunny weather Power save start time: 1 min As far as shooting goes, I keep it in manual mode, f/8-f/13 for wide-angle with 10-18mm or 16-50mm, f/11-f/16 for macro with 90mm, f/22 for supermacro with 90mm and +13 close-up lens, 1/160 shutter most of the time, a bit slower if I want a brighter blue background. Sometimes I play with flash compensation a bit if I feel that TTL isn't doing the best job. Display mode is almost always the electronic level; it makes a very handy reference. I shoot with both hands on tray handles, triggering via an extension on the right side. Don't really push buttons much while diving; right hand only really leaves the tray handle to adjust aperture via top knob or shutter speed via rear knob.



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