Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/03/20 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Hi there, I just wanted to post some pictures from Lembeh 2019 as a test. This are some Double Exposure in camera pictures i took that trip. Enjoy! PB037880 by Kevin De Saeger, on Flickr PA307390 by Kevin De Saeger, on Flickr PB038620 by Kevin De Saeger, on Flickr
  2. 2 points
    I would also recommend Matthias Lebo and Vanessa from the Behind the Mask group:
  3. 2 points
    I'm pro lanyard all the time. I clip on a coiled lanyard as soon as I splash. I have had to deal with critical safety and rescue scenarios more than once under water where there is no time for spare for the camera. Not having a lanyard already in place means you either don't deal with the emergency when needed most, or you lose the camera.
  4. 2 points
    Greetings from Lockdown in London. I'm pretty sure I joined this community way back but have never had the time, until now, to actually participate in any discussions. That thing called work, you know, keeps getting in the way Well my name is Joss Woolf and I have been taking pictures since 2004. I joined the British Society of Underwater Photographers (of whose members' work I was utterly in awe) in the days when we were still shooting with film, and now I take quite an active part in its operation. I help to organize the speakers for our monthly meetings which used to take place at University College in South Kensington, London but, of course, are now online, having been unable to meet up in person since March. But this has proved to be quite successful, attracting far more people than were ever able to physically meet up in London. I also help to produce a glossy magazine called "in focus" which is crammed with our members' images and articles which they contribute, free of charge. Until this year, it was actually printed but for the time being it is produced digitally. I have a Nikon D500 in a Sea & Sea housing and am about to take a leap and buy a pair of Retra Pro strobes. They are so nice and shiny! I thought I might be able to read about them on this forum. have been using a YS250PRO which I absolutely love and have used it as a single strobe for a long time. I also have a pair of Inon Z240s which I have always taken with me as a back up. The only diving I've been able to do this year, due to the travel restrictions, was four days with the seals at Lundy Island in August. Let's hope it won't be too long before things get back to normal. I organize a two week liveaboard trip to the Red Sea every year and also love to go to Bali or Manado. You can't beat Indonesia. Well, I shall enjoy meeting you all and look forward to chatting soon. And who knows, maybe I can even recruit one or two of you to come and give us a talk at BSoUP! Joss
  5. 2 points
    I am happy to share my latest video-interview with Max Ammer, the pioneer of diving in Raja Ampat, West Papua in Indonesia. About 30 years ago, Max came to Raja Ampat in a search of World War II relics. This is a story about how Max built the very first dive resort in Raja Ampat - Kri Eco Resort, and later - Sorido Bay Resort, about conservation efforts of Max and his partners, training local people and building the very first electrical boat in Raja Ampat. Video is shot with Sony NX80, and a few clips with Sony 7Rii. ENJOY. https://youtu.be/vcmAxOhLgEM
  6. 1 point
    1. Zeiss 12mm Touit Lens-UW Modified for N85 Ports. This lens was modified partly by Zeiss and myself to be used on the N85 port system. The outer shade support system has been removed and replaced with a series of filter rings. This allows the lens to be used with the N85 4.33 and 7" dome ports. I used it with the N85 4.33 FE port with a 20mm mini extension for a more compact system. The corners were very slightly less sharp than the larger 7" dome. I seldom could see the difference and preferred the compact travel friendly use of the N85 4.33 Zeiss designed a new outer shell for me, but I choose not to use it because I would lose the 67mm filter ring for Fluorescent photography work. I ended up turning another diver on to the modifications and he now has the Zeiss modified lens for sale. We both have moved on to the N120 system and no longer need the lens. This is an ultra sharp WA lens that will give astounding results in N85 ports on the Sony APS-C system without the need for a two part port system. The lens comes with the original equipment and can be easily returned to it's stock state with the shade system. It also has a B&W filter for protection.------$575 + 15 ship to lower 48 states. 2. Tokina Canon 10-17 Fisheye NH Model (can be used FF) w/ Zoom Gear. This the the more expensive NH model without the shade, so it can be used full frame for a more budget set-up. It's in mint condition with mounted zoom gear------------------------------------------------$450 + 10 ship within the lower 48 states. 3. Sigma-Sony 16mm f1.4 E-mount lens-UW Modified for N85 Port System. This lens was modified to fit the Nauticam N85 port system. Stock, the lens is 1.5mm too wide to fit the opening. The modification involved removing the shade mount, along the rubber focusing grip so it would fit the Nauticam N85 4.33 compact port (it's a long lens and needs 50mm of extension (20+30mm mini extensions in combination) to work with the 4.33 dome. This is a super fast f1.4 and ultra sharp and fast focusing lens for video and still photography. It has extreme close focusing distances, so it's excellent for CFWA. I have moved to the N120 system and no longer need this lens. This is the only f1.4 option for the Sony APS-C system. $325 + 15 Ship to the lower 48 states. 4. Sony 18-55 Kit Zoom with Nauticam Gear both in excellent condtion. Works with N85 Port 72, N85 4" Semi WA dome and N85 4.33 FE dome with a 20mm extension. This kit has better optics than the newer 16-50 lens that retracts everytime you turn the unit off, making it much easier to deal with. This is a sharp copy and I'm selling it because I've replaced it with the Zeiss 16-70. $185 + 10 ship to lower 48 states suing Paypal Please PM me if you are interested in any of these lens and gears. Thank you, Marshall NOTE: I will be leaving the states for the Philippines on Dec. 18 and will return on April 2nd (Filipino wife). All sales to be delivered before my return date will need to be made prior to Dec.15, 2020. All payments must be with a confirmed Paypal account and will be shipped only to the address on that account.
  7. 1 point
    Is the Vivid Housing Leak Sentinel Vacuum System still available? Does any one have reliable information if Vivid is in business, if Miso is all right, or of what may have happened? I ask as I have e-mailed Miso, the owner, several times and received no reply. With the Covid virus stalking the land, one worries. If you have reliable information, please tell us, it will be most welcome.
  8. 1 point
    last weekend we went dove the 'Flagpole' dive site in Hood canal, it is probably one of the best diving spot in that area, and behold, this easily wingspan 10 foot plus giant pacific octopus decided to come out of its den and say hi to us. absolutely once a life time experience for myself. shot on 1dx + retra strobs, WACP1 7-1 by Joe Hua, on Flickr 13-1 by Joe Hua, on Flickr 12-1 by Joe Hua, on Flickr 2-1 by Joe Hua, on Flickr 1-1 by Joe Hua, on Flickr
  9. 1 point
    Personally much prefer two single cables. You could be screwed on a trip if you just relied on a double and it went tits up.
  10. 1 point
    oops sorry, missed the first link with all the accounts you follow. super great info, thanks again!
  11. 1 point
    Hi All I hope you are well and getting some diving in! I Had a test out in the pool with the Canon 8-15mm and kenko 1.4 TC on a full frame camera. I was a bit concerned the image quality would be rubbish. For my level of photography the image quality seems ok and I am looking forward to getting it in the ocean. I have some Nudibranch shots in mind at my local site , so hopefully I can bring those ideas to fruition. Finding any info on this exact setup is not easy, if anyone else has some pertinent info to share please do. I hope to update this thread with some shots when the water clarity allows.
  12. 1 point
    Thanks! I've used them for quite a few things, actually. Below is a link to what I bought. The hardest part was just trying to figure out what to search for. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083416L5L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I'm not sure what you mean by "What did you stick on it?" The zip tie "anchors" that I bought have stickers "built in" on them so I just put it on the vacuum cover and then tied cave line to it. Let me know if you want more info or pictures. - brett
  13. 1 point
    Hi everybody. Hermit crabs are quite common everywhere here in Denmark. I always seem to shoot them in the same way, and all photos end up looking almost the same. Sometimes it's with a tighter crop, but it's more or less the same photo. I would like to see what others make of this very photogenic creature. Hopefully get inspired in a whole new direction. This one is shot with Sony A7R4 and Sony 90mm
  14. 1 point
    Thank you, Pete! This is very helpful. Apologies, I did not see this until now (I guess I didn't have notifications turned on). I think I am probably right on the edge at 14 mm with the 8" dome with 63.5mm extension. I will have to try and do this experiment for the 10" S&S dome. I did get a S&S 10" dome on the housing with 59.4 mm extension. The lens doesn't protrude as much into the dome as it does with the 8" but it looks close to me. This was my much cruder experiment anyway! Thanks for the help! Best, Heather
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    I just got back from diving the Sea of Cortez. Huge pull sharks on the reefs of Cabo Pulmo and Killer Whales in the La Paz area. Diving was amazing.
  17. 1 point
    The crocs in Cuba are photographed using snorkel and one can get amazing close to them, although it is a scary and harrowing experience. On my trip one diver was bit on the thigh but it was not a hard bite although I saw the black and blue teeth marks that were left despite the wetsuit. Another diver had their fin nibbled.
  18. 1 point
    @spectralsepia Mike Bartick (Crystal Blue Divers in Anilao) spends much of time diving blackwater now (he's one of the pioneers for this type of diving). He's been shooting video with his D850 and 60mm lens and getting some really good results. I know he's a member here (but couldn't easily find his ID) - he also runs the blackwater group over on Facebook. He would have an informed view of any limitations/advantages of this set up.
  19. 1 point
    I'm liking the composition with the different layers -surface water, mid water and bottom. Nice thing about shallow is all the light.
  20. 1 point
    I have used the Olympus 300mm f/4 and the Panasonic 200mm f/2.8 primes I had the Olympus on loan for a week and concluded it is a fine lens but 300mm f/4 as start is too long unless you are shooting small birds all the time. So I now have a Panasonic 200mm f/2.8 it comes with a 1.4 TC that appears to have a very very marginal loss. So I have a 200mm/2.8 lens that is fast and if I need reach a 280mm f/4 that performs as well as the Olympus 300 f/4 I wrote a review on dpreview https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4531092 Clearly if small birds are all you shoot it makes sense to start at 300mm if you get a good price however I would not recommend to take a 2x TC and run the lens at f/8 for 600mm
  21. 1 point
    If I remember correctly in live view the D850 works with contrast detect so it won't focus better than any other mirrorless cameras. Same thing any DSLR. You need a mirrorless with phase detect to retain PDAF and video Perhaps you need to think about different strategies...
  22. 1 point
    One of the reasons the critters are crazy fast is because of your video lights. With stills and strobes, the solution can be to use a red light for focus so the critters are not as energetic. That addresses the problem from a different direction than spending on the latest autofocus. I don't know what the equivalent video solution is.
  23. 1 point
    I LOVE that last one of just the tentacle. Really great leading line, some what abstract but you still know exactly what you’re looking at. Well done!
  24. 1 point
    They are not underwater shots don't have a housing for the Olympus There are many examples around just google Sony PDAF Striping or banding
  25. 1 point
    Next time you dive Emerald Bay take a metal detector! lol. My father was in law enforcement and dealt with fraud at the casinos. One thing people did was hammer down pennies so they would fit in the dime slots, back in the late 60s - 70s. They had to be "taken out of circulation". Most I think went to the Feds for melting down. But we took a few bags of the shiny coins and would throw them overboard watching them drift down to the bottom.
  26. 1 point
    nice! Always thought it might be fun to dive there
  27. 1 point
    Thanks, but I'm only interested in the Nauticam Macro Port 60 for my Sony a6500 rig (in combination with a 50mm N85 to N120 adapter) for my Sony 90mm macro lens.
  28. 1 point
    Short answer to your first and second question is no. The third question: possibly. Firstly the RS lenses have a double mount. The inner mount is almost the same as the F mount (hence the no). The outer mount is the waterproof part. The lenses came out in the 1990s so have the Nikon tech of that era which means screw-drive AF. The lenses do not have an aperture ring so are somewhat like the more recent lenses. The 10.5mm DX fisheye lense is somewhat similar as it has screw AF and no aperture ring. From what I have gathered (far from the center of things) there are at least three types of "conversions": Type 1. The change is made to the inside the lens (electronics) so that it can communicate with a DSLR and thus function. The outer mount is adapted to specific housings with an adapter ring. This is how the Nju folks do it: http://njusystem.com/category/blog/products/ Type 2. The inner lens components are removed from the RS lens leaving a lens unit without its front element that is fitted into a new shell so the lens resembles an ordinary camera lens. As well the electronics are modified. The front RS lens element is installed into a dedicated lens port. This is how Seacam does it. https://wetpixel.com/articles/seacam-reinvents-the-nikonos-rs-13mm Type 1 and 2 conversions require using a camera that supports screw-drive AF. Not all Nikon cameras do. A third type is possible... Type 3. Leave the RS lenses as is and instead build a surrogate of the RS camera body that would control both the focus and aperture. The RS camera body has a complex switch that allows manual focusing via the focusing motor (in the body as all screw-drive AF bodies) so there is no absolute need to interface Nikon AF with that of another company. A hypothetical surrogate could have a switch (and motor) that functions similarly -- push left or right to focus in one direction or the other. The more the switch is pushed in either direction the faster the focus. Aperture control is a simple knob with reciprocal aperture values on it like a shutter speed knob on cameras. There are RS lens adapters for motion picture camera housings that may function like part or all of type 3 but as I have not seen one in person I do not know for sure how they work. They are not cheap. But they suggest this is feasible.
  29. 1 point
    Greetings from Lockdown in London. I'm pretty sure I joined this community way back but have never had the time, until now, to actually participate in any discussions. That thing called work, you know, keeps getting in the way Well my name is Joss Woolf and I have been taking pictures since 2004. I joined the British Society of Underwater Photographers (of whose members' work I was utterly in awe) in the days when we were still shooting with film, and now I take quite an active part in its operation. I help to organize the speakers for our monthly meetings which used to take place at University College in South Kensington, London but, of course, are now online, having been unable to meet up in person since March. But this has proved to be quite successful, attracting far more people than were ever able to physically meet up in London. I also help to produce a glossy magazine called "in focus" which is crammed with our members' images and articles which they contribute, free of charge. Until this year, it was actually printed but for the time being it is produced digitally. I have a Nikon D500 in a Sea & Sea housing and am about to take a leap and buy a pair of Retra Pro strobes. They are so nice and shiny! I thought I might be able to read about them on this forum. have been using a YS250PRO which I absolutely love and have used it as a single strobe for a long time. I also have a pair of Inon Z240s which I have always taken with me as a back up. The only diving I've been able to do this year, due to the travel restrictions, was four days with the seals at Lundy Island in August. Let's hope it won't be too long before things get back to normal. I organize a two week liveaboard trip to the Red Sea every year and also love to go to Bali or Manado. You can't beat Indonesia. Well, I shall enjoy meeting you all and look forward to chatting soon. And who knows, maybe I can even recruit one or two of you to come and give us a talk at BSoUP! Joss
  30. 1 point
    Hi all. Joanna from Sydney, new to UW photography but keen to learn more. Started diving this March as a COVID hobby and it just stuck. Happy diving all!
  31. 1 point
    Hi all, joining from The Netherlands! Cold water diving, photography and cinematography mostly.
  32. 1 point
    I'm a diver from Southern California. I am just getting into photography after being a GoPro fan boy for the past 5 years. While it is a great way to get decent video footage, I am ready to take it to the next level. I'm currently shooting with a Sony RX100-VA with a Nauticam pro housing and working on building my camera system. I am mostly interested in wide angle shooting as I have a passion for wreck diving. But I am open to learning macro shooting as well.
  33. 1 point
    I shouldn’t bother, but the selective logic has to be pointed out. Don’t compare a flagship lens to a budget lens. Canon and Olympus both make expensive halo lenses. They also both make budget lenses. So compare like to like. If you want 600mm from Canon you can pay $1000, $6000, or $12000. The same capability (and more) from Olympus is priced from $400 to $1500 to $2500, and soon perhaps $5000. Both systems can mount those lenses on a sub $1000 body or a flagship $6000 body. There is no inconsistency in technical approach, though there is clearly difference in business acumen. You can have the last word on this topic. I’m done.
  34. 1 point
    why do I have to take an unsolicited lesson every time? Is it possible to have some respect for the competence of others? For once, just once, could you at least try to understand people's posts? TX NO RX That said, I'm taking a break from WetPixel (and also the first yellow card after 10 years). See you when the forum will be a place of exchange again and not of monologues.
  35. 1 point
    Hello from the San Francisco Bay Area! I am a fine art photographer who specializes in images of the natural world. I am a beginning underwater photographer and am learning about the differences between shooting above and under the water as well as how to process under water images. Thank you!
  36. 1 point
    If that lens comes in at a mid 4 figure price, I’ll buy it for wildlife. Imagine the equivalent of 300-1000mm handheld with the sync IS of the top Olympus bodies, and up to 2000mm with their teleconverters. I was theoretically sceptical that this made any sense until I saw Robin Wong’s videos on YT doing that with the current 100-400 zoom, which the halo lens should eclipse. He shows some amazing IQ at extreme ranges. Feel free to call me a fan boy, and chime in about m4/3 noise and dynamic range and useable ISO and zooms versus primes. All factored in. I’m a hobbyist not a pro, and I’ll be out hiking longer and higher than I could with a D6 and a scuba tank sized telephoto!
  37. 1 point
    Hi I'm Rex Villavelez from the Philippines. A divemaster and an underwater photographer. I have been doing underwater photography for around 10 years. I joined this site in hopes of getting good deals from underwater photography classifieds.
  38. 1 point
    I've used flip mounts, the AOI bayonet system, and regular screwing. I second the flip getting in the way---I'm usually pulling strobes in close for macro right where they would go. As for the bayonet system, I enjoy it for the speed of switching. I mounted two bayonet receivers on my focus light arm off the cold-shoe mount that allowed me to swap wet wide-angle with diopter. No problems except that switching lenses usually makes the housing's trim change. Where the bayonet really won for me is entering the water and quickly flushing bubbles out between lens and face. I lost too many shots needing to unscrew, wave away bubbles, and rescrew. And one time lost a lens---I started to cheat by only lighting screwing the wet lens before entering, as I'd need to take it off anyway. Til I screwed a little... too lightly.
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    My name is Anthony Fuccella and I live in San Jose, CA. I have learned underwater photography from trial and error as well as from youtube.com. I am always happy to teach what I know and learn from others. My underwater photography is done in pools and ranges anywhere from athletes swimming to senior portraits. I do a variety of photography above water as well but enjoy underwater the most. I currently use an Ikelite housing with a Canon 5d Mark iii. I look forward to spending more time in this forum learning from others.
  41. 1 point
    Hi, I'm a diver based in Costa Brava (Catalonia, Spain) and really interested in underwater photography. Now I'm very excited because I'm changing all my gear from a compact camera to a DSRL camera. Joining Wetpixel to learn as much as possible from better uwphotographers! Joan
  42. 1 point
    Hi, new member here. Deborah from Hatteras, NC
  43. 1 point
    Hi I use Subal for my digital photography and while not cheap it’s a great system. I suggest you buy the best camera you can to avoid changing housings too often. I use a Nikon D700 which is a professional standard camera and have had the associated Subal housing for over 12 years. Like you I also use Nikonos with film which I still think beats digital as you must think more. cheers
  44. 1 point
    Hey all, I’m Ricky from the South side of Atlanta, Georgia, USA. I’ve been diving for 3 years now and am close to my 100th dive. I wasn’t into photography before learning to dive, but look forward to learning to use my G7x Mkiii to capture some of the cool things we encounter below!
  45. 1 point
    Hi new to this forum but been diving for over 25 years and shooting as an amatuer for many years. Have done a bit of professional video work. Work professionally as a diver in Japan running tours and operating a dive service in Okinawa. Hope to learn much here.
  46. 1 point
    We got a lot of questions about the beam angle of the Retra Flash Prime/PRO with the new Reflector. Because every manufacturer measures the beam angle in a different way we made a quick experiment. All flashguns are positioned at 50cm (20 inches) from a white wall and shot at normal exposure in the center of the beam. The yellow circle is marked at approximately 90º angle of coverage.
  47. 1 point
    Hi from Bangkok, Thailand. I'm an ameteur underwater photographer (Beginner) but I frequently shoot landscape, panoramic photography and macro ( intraoral dental photographs). After research about housing, strobes and underwater photography technique , I bought my first full system (not include my old gopro4 and sony FDRx3000) My gears: A7Riii + metabones + 8-15 F4L Nauticam housing + port adaptor + extension ring 30 + Nauticam 140 mm fisheye dome port Sea & Sea YS-D3 + diffuser + mini flash trigger Weefine 2300 focus light x1 I also bought INON mega float M -650g x2 + INON float M -135g x2 Total = -1570g But I'm not sure that I gonna work with my system. If someone have system just like me ( or nearly ) Please advise if you have any suggestions about buoyancy. Thanks Namton
  48. 1 point
    Start working on your upper body strength. Fellow D850/Nauticam user... My rig is about 25lbs out of water.
  49. 1 point
    Here in Italy Leo housings are somewhat popular. My buddy has an "ancient" Leo 1 and while he admits that it's becoming obsolete he is satisfied. He started with a Nikon D200 twelve years and now it use a D7500. Five cameras same housing. Easydive just programmed the internal controller for the new camera (I guess) for about 2/300€. Just think to the huge money saving... On the other hand I consider Leo housing owners like a sect You will never know if they have/had problems with their housings. this is the reason I never pulled the trigger. The housing is inevitably bulky: it's the prrice to pay for being able to load a Sony A6300 or a nikon D850... Regarding the WI model my main concern would be battery life and lag. I know that some camera are very power hungry with WI-FI turned on. i would prefer the Leo II which controls the camera via Lanc protocol. Of course, if you already have the camera you can check yourself on the couch regarding WI-FI battery requirements and potential command lags. Bye
  50. 1 point
    It always struck me that the very best underwater camera operators are really good at breath-hold diving. I have to improve my free-diving skills a lot in the next few months as it looks like I'm going somewhere that tanks aren't allowed. At the moment I struggle to manage a length of the pool underwater but I need to be able to hang 10m down in the Pacific for a while filming stuff. Any tips for improving free-diving technique with video in mind? I know a lot of it is just a case of relaxation and practice but I'm sure there's more to it than that. Any good books/videos/courses/websites on the subject?

Sponsors

Advertisements



  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
×
×
  • Create New...