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  1. 2 points
  2. 2 points
    I recently got into 3d printing and cad design. I printed some dome port protectors and gears out of flexible nylon. Also printed some rings to cover the lens info that can reflect off a port.
  3. 2 points
    last weekend we went dove the 'Flagpole' dive site in Hood canal, it is probably one of the best diving spot in that area, and behold, this easily wingspan 10 foot plus giant pacific octopus decided to come out of its den and say hi to us. absolutely once a life time experience for myself. shot on 1dx + retra strobs, WACP1 7-1 by Joe Hua, on Flickr 13-1 by Joe Hua, on Flickr 12-1 by Joe Hua, on Flickr 2-1 by Joe Hua, on Flickr 1-1 by Joe Hua, on Flickr
  4. 2 points
    Having endured here in the Philippines the longest and strictest lockdown in the world, this has been my mood for longer than I thought I could endure: So when the restrictions on travel between provinces was lifted, my wife and I drove out of Manila to Anilao for a long weekend with a feeling of being able to breathe again, although we did feel sort of uncertain and tentative and cautious, a little like this porcelain crab: We only got in a couple of dives thanks to unfavorable weather, but just being back in the water at familiar sites felt like visiting some old friends. My technique was certainly rusty so none of the pictures I took over the weekend will make it into my top 100, but they will remain among my most favorite for what they represented for us, a lifting of a very long gloomy period. We're a long way from an exit, but are so grateful to be so fortunate to be able to drive to such a special place until the new normal becomes clear. Even the heavens seemed to agree with us on Saturday night. I hope things start to get better for all of us sooner rather than later!
  5. 2 points
    Interesting article on one of my favorite non-scuba related sites. Enjoy! http://www.openculture.com/2020/09/the-first-underwater-portrait-in-the-history-of-photography-circa-1899.html Kind regards, Ajay.
  6. 2 points
    I've done a couple of Guadalupe trips. During the first trip (2016), I used my Nikon 10-24mm (rectilinear) and it worked very nicely. It's probably worth noting that, I spent considerable time hanging outside the cage during that first trip. I'm small so it was easy for me to slide through the viewing opening on the cage and keep one leg wrapped around the inside to retreat back inside if necessary. One large male did give me the 'staring into the Jaws of Death' experience near the end of our last day during that trip when he made a run to try to pick me off the side of the cage. I simply slid back inside to get out of his way. It happened so quickly that I didn't even give it much thought until I was reviewing and post-processing images. I didn't feel like I needed my strobes during the first trip. The curved field of view that a fisheye creates isn't something I care for; mine never came out of my gear bag. As I prepared for my second trip, I added a Nikon 16-85mm to my camera bag. I felt like I had missed a lot of opportunities during my first trip because the 10-24mm didn't give me enough reach. Sometimes you have sharks that drop-by for close passes and others don't come in as close. The second trip (2017) was good. I was happy with the 16-85mm and I used my strobes during some of my cage time. White sharks have blue eyes and it's difficult to get the color unless you can light them up. One of the frustrations I encountered at Guadalupe was the screen of mackerel that take up residence under anchored boats. It was extremely difficult during both trips to capture decent images of the sharks with the number of mackerel that show-up. Another minor irritation was the people who had their Gopro cameras on long sticks. I missed more than one opportunity for great image captures because a Gopro on a stick would appear in my viewfinder as sharks would come in close. Of course, this is one of those give & take things. Other divers are there to capture images and video too. Some of those folks were probably silently cursing the nut job who kept climbing outside the cage to pursue the images he was after. Do plan to wear what you need to stay warm. Sometimes you have to wait long periods of time before a sharks decides to drop-by. It can get chilly if you don't have enough wetsuit. If you're interested in looking at some images from my trips, check out the portfolio on my website www.cortezbluephotography.com. -AZTinman
  7. 2 points
    AFAIK, the only strobes currently on the market that offer HSS capability are: SeaCam SeaFlash 60D and 160D - strobes can be triggered by sync cords or fiber optics, but HSS is available only when using sync cords, only with Canon and Nikon cameras, and Canon/Nikon support is strobe model-specific - i.e. there's an SKU that works with Canon, and another SKU that works with Nikon. On the upside, HSS is available in TTL and manual modes. Retra Prime and Retra Pro - fiber optic triggering only, HSS is available only in manual mode, requires an LED trigger board in the housing to supply the proper triggering signal. UWTechnics and TRT Electronics have triggers compatible with Canon, Nikon, Sony, Panasonic and Olympus cameras (separate SKUs for each manufacturer as they have different flash communication protocls); UWTechnics triggers are shaped to fit a specific housing, whereas TRT triggers are generic boxes that fit most housings.
  8. 2 points
    Adam: I see. Yes, I had to remove the rubber ring but have not had any problem with the tape failing (yet). The rubber ring stays off since the lens is only used underwater. Based on your comments, I put a strip of gaffer tape over the existing tape. It fit quite well and should keep things together. Thank you for explaining.
  9. 2 points
    I guess I don't really have anything to say that hasn't been said, but nevertheless.... A couple years ago I moved from MFT to a D500. Using the right extension rings I can use 8-15 Nikkor or 10-17 Tokina, and 60 macro, all with or without a teleconverter, as well as the 105 macro, using a 100 or 140 dome and a macro port. On occasion I will take a 180 dome, although only rarely. I enjoy using the D500 much more than the MFT and get a much higher number of "keeper" shots with it. I would be unwilling to travel with anything larger or with any domes larger than the 180 (well, maybe a 200?) and when lugging the stuff around I miss the MFT, but once at my destination I could not be happier. I use a Nauticam housing and am happy with it, but have never tried any other brand so cannot compare. I have also found a "luggage" solution that seems to work pretty well for me so far. We will all go to (or back to) mirrorless at some point, but for underwater use, we are not there yet and I think it will be at least a few years and by then the lens selection and body selection will be completely different than it is now.
  10. 1 point
    I have always taken photos and video before the underwater but with covid-19 I have gone to shoot much more on land out of cancelled diving trips and other trips Majority of us have a fisheye and a macro lens and some have also a mid zoom. Unfortunately underwater imaging is not relying on fast lenses so most of your traditional photography is not matching the equipment, besides with covid-19 travel restrictions make it harder to go around and shoot landscapes So what can you do if you have a macro lens and a wide angle lens? One interesting option are star trails that unless you are in the centre of a very bright city are possible almost anywhere from your backyard. A fast wide angle not too wide is preferred but you can even get by with fisheye Home Sweet Home by Interceptor121, on Flickr Macro gives you access to flowers or bugs You can also use macro lenses for abstract I hope this is inspiring those that are stuck at home and have their equipment collecting dust to try something new
  11. 1 point
    Black moray eel (Muraena augusti) lurking out of a cave in El Hierro. Nikon D90, 105mm, ISO 200, f/16, 1/200s Ikelite housing and snooted DS51 strobe @nau_photography on Instagram Check out my website!
  12. 1 point
    Nauticam is excellent and a great choice. I've had their D800 and D850 housings and they are fantastic. You'll want to get a Nikon 105vr lens as your primary macro lens. The 60mm is nice for intermediate range but the 105 can't be beat for small stuff.
  13. 1 point
    Here are the silky sharks swarming the bait near the surface in Cuba.
  14. 1 point
    Hi, I recently got an AO Cooler bag: https://aocoolers.com/24-pack-carbon-cooler-black.html I got the black carbon model because it is very water repellent and dries really quickly. I typically just hose it down at the end of the day, then wipe it down dry. Salt seems to just slide off, did not notice any salt build up on the zippers. Used it for about 3 weeks out on fieldwork for my camera system. It worked well on the boat. For travel what I did was I bought a camera bag insert: https://fstopgear.com/products/icu/pro-icu-large So the cooler serves double duty as my camera bag during travel. I typically arrive at my destination and i can just pull out the camera insert and all my stuff is there. That camera insert stays in the hotel room nice and dry. Then I assemble my camera and just drop it in cooler bag and that serves as my wet bag which i can take onto the boat. Hope it helps Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. 1 point
    @oneyellowtang No doubt that such technology can offer benefits not achievable otherwise. Where I work, we have access to devices with EVF’s that outperform what todays cameras offer and yet for certain applications, the OVF continues to handily outperform the EVF counterpart. There are needs for both. As for AI augmentation, there is a company with an EVF binocular that in theory could load data for say birds, such that on top of presenting you an image of the subject, it will also provide an identification. Is that the future of birding? I certainly hope not and I’m not even a birder. I too grab my kindle when I’m heading out on travel but when I have the time to read at home, I still prefer by far and away to read from a book. There are numerous studies indicating that comprehension and retention are higher when reading from printed pages than from a device. So while I love technology, I do realize that it has limitations as well and when it comes to more ‘artistic’ endeavors, technology can be a double edged sword. AI sky replacement in some of today’s photo editing software is becoming quite believable but I’d personally never use it and ‘look down’ upon its use. So while ‘change is inevitable’, we must realize that it is not always for the better. However, I’m not trying to change anyone else’s opinions just offering my view.
  16. 1 point
    shot on Night dive at Edmond underwater park, Nauticam 1dx + 28-70mm( WACP1) Spotted ratfish/Chimera is one of my favorite fish, they are generally a deep water fish hanging out around 500-3000 feet, but on some west coast of US and part of europe they come up to the shallow depth , which is quite a rare treat. spotted ratfish by Joe Hua, on Flickr ratfish1-1 by Joe Hua, on Flickr
  17. 1 point
    Wow beautiful shots. Very clear, colorful with nice lighting. Well done!
  18. 1 point
    thank you ! pretty much WACP1 is my favorite lens and the only lens I use on all my dives right now, as I don't really shoot macro, one WACP1 does pretty much all I need, the second picture is wacp 28-70 at 28mm, it is actually quite wide, and the last photo is in the 70mm, all the way zoomed in. It gives me incredible range and flexibility to work with during a dive.
  19. 1 point
    Great photos. Now following you on Flickr too. Particularly interested in images taken with the wacp-1. Please post many more, thanks. Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk
  20. 1 point
    Good catch! Forgot about flashbulbs! The 38mm lens is only f/4.5 so you do not have to stop down much from maximum aperture to reach f/5.6 or f/8! You will have to do some trial and error. The bigger deal is having to estimate the focus distance so it will be a bit like shooting an old Nikonos. The H38 housing had a focusing scale on the focus knob.
  21. 1 point
    Very few Bird In Flight photos are taken underwater. I do a lot of bird photography myself and there is a big difference in the amount of available light. Even a cloudy day will have a lot more light to assist focus than in often available underwater. It's is the low light autofocus capability that really distinguishes DSLRs like the D850 or D500. Also note that most camera & lens development is optimized and tested with photographers shooting birds and such above water. I would venture to guess that very little engineering is done to optimize for underwater shooting.
  22. 1 point
    I thank everybody for the great advice and discussion. At the end I just ordered a BenQ SW270c monitor and the x-rite i1display pro plus for calibration... Wolfgang
  23. 1 point
    The back issue page has a search box if you enter something for example tokina will return the back issue that have tokina in it but not search inside Generally this is sufficient http://www.uwpmag.com/?p=uwp-back-issues Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. 1 point
    Before you buy a Sea & Sea housing for a Nikon D200, you might want to check on the availability of O-rings for the housing. I've got a couple of Sea & Sea D300 housings and it's very difficult to find O-rings for them. Evidently, Sea & Sea stopped making the O-rings for D300 housings. A housing for a D200 is older than my D300 housings. -Tinman
  25. 1 point
    I have attaches the front page from an older review using the Canon 8-15 zoom and Zen 100 port with the Sony A7R II. Higher MP's and full frame add to softness in the corners at F/stops below about F/13. Since this review I have used this lens with a verity of other cameras and dome sizes. Works very well for splits with domes of 200mm or greater. I have also used the Nikon 8-15 with Nikon mirrorless cameras with like results. I have also used the Canon with Canon full frame cameras and see no difference in AF speed or image quality with or without an adapter. This is a free PDF download at uwpmag.com at the top od the page in back issues #93/
  26. 1 point
    For sure, Chris. Definitely not a procedure to do while on a crammed dive boat. Growing up, I was always fascinated by my dad's dive gear and cameras from the 60s. I used to dive in our pool whenever I could at 10 yo. I was certified at 14. On dive boats, that system would always draw a crowd. Lately my dad has been in the hospital following complications from hip surgery. He's 76 and can no longer dive. It was the activity we did most together. Many fond dive trips off Monetery and the Channel Islands. Shooting this system again is how I feel close to him. Every day dives I'll take my compact system, then take the Hasselblad on bigger trips off the coast, like the Channel Islands. I want to keep it going for as long as I can. Hopefully next year I'll be able to get the new digital back for them. Even if I get sick of it, I can still shoot the cameras on land. I'll only be out for the cost of servicing the housing. The strobes I will get for it can be used for an SLR. BTW, which housing do you have? Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
  27. 1 point
    https://reefphoto.com/products/cp-3516-used-macro-port-87-sku-18702
  28. 1 point
    I have used a pair of 250D strobes for 14 years and have the circuit mentioned in that box on p.24 in my housings, which use S6. I think the extra wire allows the left strobe to communicate to the right strobe. When I leave the right strobe on TTL it fires at whatever manual setting I set on the left strobe, not TTL. It is very handy to be able to manually change the power on both strobes with one switch. My guess is the extra wiring allows the left strobe to become the master of the right strobe. BTW, should you get one of the new 160D strobes it will arrive set for Nikon (as factory default). You have to change the setting to switch it to Canon. I know someone who is a Canon shooter and got his new strobe, set to Nikon, and thought the order was a mistake because he didn't read the manual through to learn about the ability to switch. I watched a very nice video from last year's DEMA on this site with Harald Hordosch describing all of the features of the 160D, which is where I learned about the feature. I admit I'm also not a manual reader. I am anxious to get my pair of 160Ds wet. They are an excellent product.
  29. 1 point
    Also happy with my Leak Sentinel detector. For a new installation, I would strongly recommend the V5 XB, for which the battery is located in the housing, which makes changing it much easier.
  30. 1 point
    I recall shooting f/11 with 70mm Ektachrome 200 Pro film - brings back memories especially the hassle of special ordering the film. Using one or two 150 W-S strobes. The whole rig with two strobes (EL housing) was quite the monster, around 50 pounds in air. On the plus side one can sync at 1/500 due to the leaf shutter.
  31. 1 point
    I guess the black one was added. Do you have a volt-ohm meter aka multimeter? You can use one to test the conductivity between the plugs and bulkheads.
  32. 1 point
    I'll post pics shortly. Stay tuned. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
  33. 1 point
    I used the Subsea strobes as well as the Ike 150 back in the day with my Hasselblad system and used the EO plug on the housing (for the EL). These were 150 watt-second units. EO is a bit out of fashion with current strobes. Better off adapting to a bulkhead or fiber optic. With the blue housings it may be possible to swap out bulkheads - possibly a reduction fitting will have to be added as those old bulkheads appear to have used a larger diameter hole than the 14mm being used these days. I would be interested in knowing if Devon can do this.
  34. 1 point
    Thank you all for the recommendations much appreciated. We have decided to stay near Olbia close to a beautiful stretch of sand called 'La Cinta'. This is a 15min drive to dive centres that take you to AMP Tavolara which I thought looked like a nice place to dive after seeing a few pictures taken there - glad to have this confirmed @Alex_Mustard (I did actually watch that video a few days ago, in fact, I watch all of them, very valuable for a novice like me.) I have a small Sony Rx100v4 compact setup with a Nauticam WWL-1 + CMC-1 but I am really looking forward to this trip as it will be the first time I will be taking 2x Inon Z240 strobes, will see how it goes... Cheers Igor
  35. 1 point
    +1 for the Vivid. Used it almost from its inception. Great bit of kit and phenomenal service from Miso
  36. 1 point
    Lewis88, I have a LS Ver 4 which I believe is a different configuration than the V 5. Email Miso and he'll get you the correct info. To add to Kraken's excellent write up, my opinion is that the LS will best detect a small leak due to the pressure change prior to the start of a dive assuming that you allow it a few minutes. As I recall with the V4, it takes about a reduction of absolute pressure of 0.1 ata to change the light from blinking red to solid green as you pump down. Then an increase in absolute pressure of about 0.05 ata to cause the light to flash red indicating a leak. Miso gave me these numbers some years ago, so this is from memory. Depending on the volume of your housing, dome, etc., amount of air (or water) required to trip the red LS alarm can be significant. So I feel that the LS 4 (or any similar vacuum system) is best used for predive leak check allowing a good amount of time after pumping down the housing. Usually I prepare my housing the night before and allow lots of time under the vacuum. If I have to open the housing midday, I try to allow at least 15 and preferably 30 minutes after getting the solid green. Once in the water, I mostly rely on the internal leak detector as a drop or two of salt water (or condensation) will trigger it giving you a chance to save your camera, etc. Far less water will trigger the leak detector than will trigger the red light on the LS4 IMO. If you ever get the leak alarm UW, immediately point your port straight down and hold that position until out of the water and able to open your housing. That way the water should accumulate in the port. If it's a small amount of water, you may be able to save your camera, etc. Also I am a big proponent of the LS system. Miso has a real winner in his design and support. I would suggest that you buy directly from Miso. He ships promptly. It took about a week to get my LS from him. I'm in the states. Harry
  37. 1 point
    No worries. I am deprived of diving due to Covid and that is having a negative effect on my humor, patience and mood. I am about to start doing bird photography out of desperation. It is either that or take up drinking as a hobby.
  38. 1 point
    Awesome - thank you both!! I had a small hunch they looked similar, but had no idea if they actually were the same filter setup.
  39. 1 point
    Agree with Tom, it's the same filter that came in a set with the 16mm fisheye. They are readily available on Ebay if you search under the 16mm Fisheye. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nikon-L37C-Bayonet-Filter-AI-AF-Fisheye-Nikkor-16mm-f-2-8D-AI-Nikkor-15mm-F3-5S/273515796417?epid=1840600782&hash=item3faecfd7c1:g:ytgAAOSwB9Fbyf1y One of the ones (L37c) in the set is clear glass, and you can cut a small circle of Alex's Magic Filter and place it on the back of the glass. I attached mine with a TINY drop of lacquer at the 12 and 6 o'clock position and it works like, well, Magic:)
  40. 1 point
    This is a bayonet filter that Nikon used with several other lenses such as the 16mm fisheye: https://www.nikonusa.com/en/nikon-products/product/lens-filters/39mm-bayonet-l37c-uv-haze-filter.html Probably easier to find the filter for sale than to make one. Keep in mind that it needs to be aligned perpendicular to the optical axis.
  41. 1 point
    Hello: Your best bet is the Vivid Leak Sentinel, with the electric vacuum pump. I have three Model 5 Leak Sentinels installed in my housings and they work great. I use the electric vacuum pump. Using them has saved me from some bad leaks. I highly recommend them. Cheers, Elias. https://www.vividhousings.com/leak-sentinel.php#:~:text=LEAK SENTINEL V4 - pre dive,detector for any uw housing!&text=The housing is closed 15,starts blinking%2C indicating ambient pressure.&text=Green LED blinking indicates that,leakage (safe to dive).
  42. 1 point
    Hey guys, Sharing my first shot using Canon 7D and Tokina 10-17 fisheye. Its my first time to DSLR
  43. 1 point
    Caribbean Reef Sharks in the crystal clear waters of the Turks & Caicos islands.
  44. 1 point
    As a tech diver, I use a pair of Shearwater Petrels. As a photographer, I put eneloop AAs in them because I have hundreds of them. I get about 20 hours out of each battery I think. I don't really keep track - easy enough to pull the battery and charge it with the rest of the strobe batteries. The advantage of the newer Shearwaters (Perdix, Teric) is that they have an inbuilt compass. Helpful for consolidating gear when the boat driver tells you to swim a certain way to hit the wreck. I haven't seen anyone in the water with a console computer in a very long time, at least not unless they were a newbie using hire gear. And I tend to keep my primary computer on my right wrist as this is the one I hold the camera with for shooting. That way it's always out in front of me and easy to glance at. I guess this is a strange habit for those who wear watches in their dry life but there's not as many of those people as there used to be.
  45. 1 point
    I own this lens and I have used it in the acrylic and glass dome. There are obviously challenges due to dome port optics and field of curvature so the lens is really useable at f/8 on acrylic. On glass you can go to 7.1 because the length is fine tuned. This lens is my go to for split shots (I shoot splits with rectilinear lenses) The best option is the option 2 however in most cases Option 1 will do. Do not get the zen 170mm is too small you do need the extra size of the acrylic or glass Nauticam Shots with acrylic dome (glass only used in the pool due to covid) Encircled by Interceptor121, on Flickr Chrisoula K Bow by Interceptor121, on Flickr Whirlwind Sunset by Interceptor121, on Flickr
  46. 1 point
    Cause I’m using the GH5s which lacks IBIS, I had to come up with a way to balance my rig to to make it feel like a traditional video cam rather than the DSLR restricted position. This setup up helps me avoid all types of roll, pitch and yow. It is not a final setup up but it is so balanced that I can let go of the camera midwater and it will just stay there :). I rely totally on the external monitor for all my needs: exposure/focus etc... I can adjust the camera vertically (lookup/down) by adjusting the DIY floors position.
  47. 1 point
    Very lightly used, was my backup rig. Few saltwater, few freshwater dives, cleaned and stored in ac for most of its life. Lens is old and works fine. Has a flood sensor. Will include a single strobe cable, might be able to find a dual sync cable but if so, it will be little used, not as pristine as the camera and housing. $1000 shipped in us
  48. 1 point
    Bit the bullet. Backscatter has a sale this week and even though I can’t dive right now due to health issues and coronavirus closures, I ordered one. It’ll be shipped when they get the next batch in. Thousand dollars here, thousand dollars there, pretty soon this UW photography stuff will start costing real money. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  49. 1 point
    A-series SPL Waterhousing made to fit Nikon D300S. A great waterhousing for photographing surfing, sailing, kite boarding, bodyboarding, or many other shallow water activities and rated to a maximum depth of 25-30 feet. Housing is constructed of ultra lightweight aluminum. Sheared, formed on a sheet metal press brake and then welded solid by certified welder. All aluminum is hard anodized to protect against salt water corrosion. The water housing is then painted with industrial powder coat paint. Weight is 3 lbs with fisheye port and pistol grip. Features & Controls Control for photo/video and rec/pause. Shutter Speed Aperature Manual shutter release on side for emergency backup. Large LCD windows on top and back of housing. Detachable side grip. Latest new molded detachable pistol grip with all new custom designed two stage autofocus grip. Detachable flash option so you can later add a flash. Included Items Camera housing. Upgraded more expensive dome port to fit a standard lens, fisheye lens or wide angle lens. Detachable pistol grip with 2 stage autofocus. Detachable side grip. Custom leash. Neoprene port cover. Additional parts, tools and o-ring grease. Manufacturers instructions. Shockproof rigid foam lined travel/storage case measuring approximately 23"x18"x10" Housing is only 3 years old in mint condition and has had very little use. Used only 4 or 5 times max. Absolutely no blemishes, scratches, dings, floods or the like. Purchased brand new from SPL and paid about $1,900 for everything with the extra options. A great deal at $1,095. Contact hodgkins.doug@gmail.com
  50. 1 point
    Hello everyone! I have the following for sale for $950: Nikon D300 - lightly used in like new condition - Battery charger and 2 batteries - 18-55 lens Ikelite Housing - lightly used in like new condition - On tray with two handles, bolt snap, and retractor - Oring in excellent shape, seals perfectly 8” Ikelite Dome Port - lightly used in like new condition 1 Ikelite Optical Cable for use with strobe Please feel free to contact me with any questions: covington.d@gmail.com or 305-301-9115 Best, Derek

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