Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/18/19 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    I took a trip aboard the MSY Seahorse in the Banda Sea back in late September/early October. The primary goal of such a trip is to see schooling hammerhead sharks. This was my second attempt and managed to get some good footage of them. It's really quite a challenge to capture them well as you never know when they will show up and how close they'll be. The GH5 has a hard time focusing on such a subject in the water column at a distance. My strategy each dive was to swim off the wall, turn around and focus the lens on a contrasty area on the verge of visibility. Then, I would keep my fingers away from the focus lever for the rest of the dive! When we finally encountered the school, I had to make a few short fin kicks towards them till the focus peaking appeared around them on the monitor, then pressed record! Here is the video of the trip. Comments and critiques are welcomed.
  2. 2 points
    I really like my Sony. The a6000 is a 2014 camera, so not really the latest tech. Also switching to a different brand and get the equivalent (dry land) lenses just because a particular housing was cheap, I don't think I'd save money. I wouldn't switch to a smaller sensor, I wouldn't probably switch to full frame either. I definitely wouldn't switch to DSLR, because I've never had one and mirrorless just makes much more sense to me. So my switching options would be limited Fuji and Canon, and I probably wouldn't accept just any one of those. However I might start looking for used housings for Sony as well. I could upgrade the body, especially to an a6500 for IBIS, or a6600 but that is the latest tech... I have never touched a pro brand housing and I have no idea what it is that makes up the retail price. For me the cheap chinese seems to be doing everything a housing should do, maybe just not the exact same quality as the pro stuff. I'm not that interested in adapting lenses so the available SeaFrogs ports are enough. The same housing even lets me upgrade the camera body up to a6400/a6500. Sure I could see some of the pro stuff being the same and would be surprised if not. Maybe that's just another future upgrade, but as of now I think I'll stick to the plan. Ok wow, now that you said it like the tenth time I had to take a closer look Earlier I Googled it and closed the browser tab when I saw the price. So there's more optics in this thing than just flat rear and dome front glass... I thought that all domes are, well just domes and Meikon did their best in making a chinese copy. Now I know what I'm doing. Thank you. - I'll buy a diopter and a flip adapter. Shoot from quite small to medium sized subjects. - I'll try something with the DIY lights, probably won't ever be powerful enough to do much for wide angle shooting. - Keep searching for used strobes and eventually upgrade to those. Good ones. - For a wet dome I'll search for a used WWL-1. - Maybe upgrade the housing in some point and buy some lenses, but although I thought this is where to start, this is actually the last thing to worry when trying to get better shots on somewhat a low budget. I could buy the Meikon dome for starters, but as I am traveling with two backpacks it's nice to not carry a large piece like that. I might need a bigger backpack when I start to collect more gear. If I'll get the 10 - 18 for wide angle I would get a dome port, possibly an 8" one to allow for over/under shots, so that's skipping the WWL-1. I also need my own scuba equipment, including a dry suit for Nordic diving. Practise makes perfection and rental gear guided fun dives makes a lot of spending on practise, also won't be able to spend time on a single subject as the group will keep moving. So even if I could improve my underwater shooting with not so expensive investments, all in all I have a lot to spend on. Also my motorcycle needs a new motor. And that's just for my hobbies. Did I mention I don't make a lot of money as I mainly work to just get by? I have really chosen the worst hobbies to go with my work ethics... So I might be annoying on this forum for quite a while before I have anything to call a complete setup. Have we come to a consensus? Thank you so much everyone!
  3. 2 points
    Thank you all for your interest in my article in UWPMAG.com. Your questions for the most part address the Sony A7R IV and the Sony FE 90mm F/2.8 macro lens. So let me start off by saying that I am Senior Reviewer for uwpmag.com and I have done over eighty equipment reviews for this magazine alone. Most of my reviews address mirrorless cameras from a number of manufactures and that I have not done much with Panasonic because the Editor is a Pana user and covers that equipment. Most if not all of the questions you have ask are answered in those reviews so I will highlight some of the specific issues you have ask about. First is the issue of comparing apples to apples. I am a big fan of 4/3 and M43 having moved from the Nikonos RS film camera to Olympus 43 (E-1, E-300, E330 E-3) as my first digital cameras. I later migrated to M43 with the first camera with an Olympus housing. So first I can assure you that shooting with M43 is not at all like using Full Frame or Medium Format. Both FF and MF require much more critical focus than M43 or even APS-C. The first Sony FF cameras I reviewed were the A7R II and A7 II with the Sony FE 90mm macro. At that time I said that the 90mm macro was the best macro lens I have ever used, prior to that it was the Olympus 50mm F/2 for 4/3. I have never said that the Sony 90 macro was the fastest macro lens I have ever used so let me clarify that distinction. With each new A7R the auto focus has improved and the recent firmware update for A7R III has made the camera even better but not as good as the RIV. As I covered extensively in both of my A7R IV reviews I have completely changed my auto focus setting preferences. With Olympus EM-5, EM-5 II, EM-1, EM1 II, Sony A7R II & III, Nikon Z-7, Canon EOS R and more I have always used AF-S with back focus because that was what worked best for me while reviewing equipment. I also had a manual focus gear for most of those reviews which I used with subjects in the 1:2 to super macro range. I have now gone to what Sony calls AF-C (auto focus continues) and Tracking: Flexible Spot S (also implemented in the A6400 & A6600). This has allowed me to abandon rear focus and I have yet the use the manual focus gear. I want to make this clear, other brands like Olympus have similar focus settings but they have just not worked all that well for me. Sony is a clear leader in the area of auto focus tech and to say that all mirrorless systems have adopted EYE AF may be true but they just don't rise to the quality of the Sony EYE AF. Sony has two native FE macro lenses the 50mm F/2.8 and the 90mm F/2.8 both of which are class leading. With the A7R IV you can toggle between 61MP FF and 26+MP APS-C which gives an equivalent 90 & 135 or 50 & 75. My personal preference is for the 90 over 100/105 because of the wider AOV, they all end up at 1:1 so you have a slightly wider range without having much closer. As a point of reference I have used the Nauticam SMC-2 with excellent results. That is more than enough magnification for me. Regarding adapted lenses like I used for my Canon EOS R and Nikon Z-7 reviews they are just not the same. Mirrorless lens design is just different from DSLR lens design. So while adapted lenses are quite expectable (I use the Canon 8-15 Fisheye zoom with Metabones for Sony) they will never be as good as like quality lenses designed for mirrorless. When Canon and Nikon introduced DSLR's they kept the same lens mount so film users migrate film lenses. How many photographers are still using film lenses on DSLR's only those that have converted Nikonos or Nikonos RS lenses for underwater use. I have done 1000's of dives with Olympus gear and I can assure you that it works very well but is not up to the current Sony standard for AF. Last I am not sponsored by anyone and while I have an opportunity to test a wide range of equipment the equipment I own I paid for just like everyone else. I was accused of being an Olympus fanboy for years and now the same is true of Sony. The truth is I buy what works best for me, I went back to Olympus after a short stint with the Sony A7R II/A7 II productivity decreased. Since the release of A7R III I have been all in with Sony. That does not mean that I would not switch again if someone builds a better mousetrap. All photos with the Sony 90 macro and Backscatter MF-1 flash.
  4. 2 points
    Keldan sell float rings for their lights buy them as the lights have torque that will bend your arms The WWL-1 with the collar together with the 35 macro port and the 14-42 MkII is 880 grams negative in fresh water in total you will need 2 KG of lift muvh better to balance the lights and the housing separately and keep the arms light
  5. 2 points
    For photo only: Nikon D850 or Sony A7RIV. Probably leaning towards the Nikon for Macro and the Sony otherwise, simply because of past experience with the 90mm macro focusing on the sony A7RII. Unless it's significantly improved as Simon has heard, in which case I don't see much benefit to the D850. But I'd be happy with either if all I was shooting is photos. In terms of lens selection, the Canon 8-15 works great on the A7RIV with adapter, the Sony 16-35F4 worked great for wide angle for me in the past (I prefer it to the Nikon 16-35F4), even with a 180mm dome, and the Sony 90mm macro is a great lens, albeit it slow to focus on the older sony A7RII/A7RIII. For video predominantly: Probably Panasonic S1R today or wait for Canon 1DX Mark III. Stabilization is important, adopted lenses are fine on the S1R. But I tend to agree with Interceptor21 that full frame may not be the best option for video, and there's a lot of interesting m4/3 and s35/aps-c options out there. Also, if you're shooting predominantly video, I think an argument should be made to go for a purely video camera rather than a hybrid. I'd take a hard look at the BMPCC 4K and 6k and the ZCAM E2 (along with the GH5, which I own). The Canon C500 Mark II looks very tempting if you've got that sort of budget. If shooting 50/50 Photo/Video: ???? I don't think currently a great full frame option exists. The Panasonic S1R arguably, though I'd prefer to have higher resolution for the photo side. Sony white balance isn't great, and none of their offerings even shoot 4k60, which I've come to love on the GH5, so I wouldn't 'upgrade' to any camera for video that didn't at least have 4k60, stabilization, and prefereably a raw codec. For photos, I'd like to have >= 36mpix. I guess the Panasonic S1R technically meets those specifications, if shooting video in the 4k mode, but no higher bit rate options at 4k60 and no raw. One can hope that the Sony A7SIII when it finally comes around gives us a 36mpix sensor, sensor stabilizaton, 8k30/4k120 (or at least 60) and some form of raw recording. Now that would be perfect. But so long as it doesn't have raw and the sony white balance remains as it is today, I won't be buying it either. What's conspicuously missing from all the above categories IMO is anything from Nikon & Sony's new mirrorless range. Lens selection for these cameras may be fine, but there's nothing particularly compelling about the Z6, Z7 or EOS R for either underwater photos, videos or in a hybrid role.
  6. 1 point
    The SMC-2 requires a higher level of skill than SMC-1 and 1:1. This is a very niche item for the obsessed super macro fan. My suggestion is to turn off AF and set to manual. Set the 90mm macro at 1:1 and leave it. Then acquire focus at 1:1 once you have done that flip in the SMC-2 and move much closer to your subject to obtain focus. When you are in focus at 1:1 and use the SMC-1 you need to reduce subject distance by about 50% say eight inches to four inches, SMC-2 is about 1/2 the distance as SMC-1 or four inches to two inches. Not aware of your skill level but these are toys that are not easy to use. When I have used SMC-2 and shot 150 images on a dive I will be lucky to get 5 or 6 in focus at F/18 to F/22. Lighting is also a bitch because you are so close to the subject and the obvious damage you can cause if you bump the subject is also a concern. The biggest issue for all super macro is subject selection, at times it is hard to find a subject so small that is not very three demential to photograph. With full frame at this magnification DOF is razor thin so most subjects will only be partially in focus.
  7. 1 point
    To be honest, I think the m24 port that Nauticam have developed is a great solution and due to the size will be future proof for inbound 8K cameras and all the stuff going forwards. Its just a shame many are stuck with M18 with cameras potentially limited by it.
  8. 1 point
    Vlad I take my Sentinel off and reinstall on my Aquatica housing regularly for cleaning, travel etc. It is dead simple and really a non-event
  9. 1 point
    In final cut pro you set your project preference to the distribution format of choice in this case 1080 the application will use original or optimised media at the source resolution to create render files at 1080 You can also run a 4K project and then scale down to 1080p at the end Generally I create a master in 4K and let the platform scale down (youtube etc) I only create smaller files for facebook in the rare occasion I put something there in 1080 p but I work in 4K all the way through
  10. 1 point
    Congrats! Thus, begins your trip down the rabbit hole Alice.
  11. 1 point
    Get a strobe. Start with one and begin to learn. You will not be happy with your photos otherwise. With a bit of practice you'll start to take some pictures that will be really great. Add a second strobe later on when you are ready for more dramatic shots.
  12. 1 point
    ( I'm worried that the addition of strobes would make everything too complex, ) Welcome to underwater photography which is a very complex task -if it was easy everyone would be doing it Two strobes is far surperior to one I agree with Tim Gs post above
  13. 1 point
    I've had my own IT consulting business for 20 years now. Amazing it's lasted that long as I'm primarily Novell/Micro Focus oriented. I've not had a non-BMW motorcycle since my Kawasaki Z1 got stolen in 1975. I went through several beemers before ending with a 1985 K100rs purchased new in Germany and shipped back. Had that bike until sold in 2015. Bought the K1300s in 2014, and I have 24,000 miles on it now. Don't get to tour on it like the old days, partly due to new girlfriend not so into it. Nowadays my focus is on underwater photography. Wish I could ride to dive sites on the bike!
  14. 1 point
    I had LR 5 for a long time but any time I had issues with my ageing Mac, it got harder and harder to re-load. Bought a LR subscription and never looked back. Yup you're paying a lot over a lifetime but if u use it professionally, or even as a serious amateur, it's worth it. If you want to own software outright, look at Luminar 4. I also have and use this. It does pretty much everything LR does with a sprinkling of PS thrown in too. Very intuitive. Basically the same layout and features of LR (don't know how they got away with it TBH as to me it's just a copy of LR with a few extra artificial intelligence features added). That aside, it is amazing software. Yes, they ask you to pay for new features, but at the level Luminar4 is now at, I cannot imagine anything else you would need to add. Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk
  15. 1 point
    Wow -- you did such a great job of getting the fish sharp and clear. The only recommendation I'd make (re: image #1) is to warm it up a bit and to add some exposure to the dorsal spines so the light is more consistent between the base of the spines and the tips.
  16. 1 point
    You can use one of those: https://uwtechnics.com/index.php/online-store/ttl-converters/for-sony It plugs into the flash hot shoe on the camera and has LEDs that go into fiber optic ports. The camera detects it as a TTL-capable external flash and acts accordingly, while the converter flashes its LEDs to trigger your strobes. The built-in pop-up flash stays down if you use it.
  17. 1 point
    Ill take a shot, but my opinion is just an opinion as I have never attempted blackwater shots myself. The first link is the best of the three. The eyes are in focus and draws you into the face. I would clean up some of the backscatter though. Link two is my least favorite. The fish is looking down and away and does not pull me into the picture. Link three Is an interesting composition. I like how the fins all fan out around the body. The focus appears to be slightly forward of the eyes though. The coral below and behind him caught some light and distracts a bit as well since it did not black out. The all show blue tinge on the outside fins. Is that from post processing? I would expect white to blue as the light falls off, but some of that bluish is on fins closest to the light source. I just haven't seen it with lionfish before.
  18. 1 point
    I would make one correction - the amount of light you need at any given subject distance is set by the aperture. The TG series at the wide end have two apertures - f2 and f2.8 - f8 is only an ND filter you only use that to try to get black backgrounds or maybe for video in shallow water to reduce the shutter speed. f2.8 is very fast meaning the less powerful strobes are adequate, strobes like the YS-01 and INON S-2000. They are fine for compacts shooting at f2.8 - 4 and 1" sensors like a Canon G7X series where you might shoot at f5.6. They are marginally OK for m43 where you would be shooting at f8. Larger sensors need a smaller aperture (bigger f number) to get adequate depth of field and this is the main driver in wide angle work all assuming shooting at the same distance.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    The best thing you can do is learn to manage light. All of the previous posts are 100% correct. That means strobes. If you begin to think in terms of how managing light affects what you are trying to photograph...you will be a better photographer. I hope you find some strobes. Don't worry about the new models coming out, maybe they are better, maybe not for you and what you shoot. Wear your gear out taking photos. You will then know what is most important to your shooting. Have fun, enjoy learning. We all started from where you are. Very best of luck on your trip. K
  21. 1 point
    Tim is absolute right. And even strobes can get you only light in situations closer than 3m. Your camera is great for macros, but the smaller the sensor, the more light you will need. So have a look for good used ones, like Inon D2000, Inon Z240, Sea & Sea will be fine as well, as your camera is using a built in strobe for ignition. If you are used to shoot topside, maybe older but strong strobes without ttl could be a possibility. They are cheap.... Good luck, Wolfgang
  22. 1 point
    I would go with the a6600 over the a6400. It has most of the latest s/w, and a much bigger battery for video.
  23. 1 point
    Personally, I would go for the A6400. I have an A6000 and now I'm considering to upgrade it to A6400. I don't see that much benefit of FF vs APS-C.
  24. 1 point
    ATTENTION AMATEUR & PRO UW PHOTOGRAPHERS planning a trip to Baja Mexico: Now that I have returned from Baja California, Mexico, here is what I know 1st hand. If you fly into Cabo San Lucas or into La Paz, Mexico, expect to pay a fee if the Customs agents stop you and notice that you have an underwater housing. The agent will Google the housing to see it’s worth, then demand that you pay 16% of that price. Many new DSLR UW housings are $4,000 or more. You will pay $640 US dollars to use that fancy new housing in Baja Mexico. The customs agent will also show you an official document in English that states you may bring in 2 cameras and the accoutrements involved, but the underwater housing is a fee by Mexican law. I ran into a pro photographer I know who happened to be staying in the same hotel. He was leading a small underwater photo tour in La Paz. The vacationers were all from Switzerland and they all told me that they had to pay exorbitant fees for their camera housings and their video housings at La Paz airport even though they were all amateurs themselves. Customs officials are targeting underwater photographers at the airport in Cabo San Lucas and in La Paz. If you have a hard-sided protective travel case for your gear they will stop you. The customs agent said I was allowed 2 cameras and the things that go along with that, BUT an underwater housing must be taxed by Mexican customs laws even if you are not a professional. He showed me the document in writing about this customs law. I told the officer that I was NOT a pro photographer, but the document he showed me specifies underwater housings as a taxable item. I told the officer that my housing was old and maybe worth $200 which is true since it is about 7 years old. He got out his cell phone and looked up the model name and number (Olympus PT-EP08 UW case for E-M5) and said it was worth at least $300. In order for me to enter the country and use MY OWN underwater camera case for personal use (I do not earn a living by photography nor do I sell my photos online or in another way) I had to pay $50 US dollars to keep my housing with me. FYI: Customs officers in Cabo San Lucas airport take credit cards for this "Photographer's Fee". Even though Cabo/La Paz is the nearest warm water diving destination to my home, this will be my last vacation here for underwater photography. If you have a nondescript, soft-sided carry-on suitcase that you can carry all of you underwater housings in, then do it. If you have to check your underwater housings through with a hard case and your dive gear is packed in a bag with a diving insignia on it, they will stop you. If they find an underwater camera housing in you luggage, the Mexican authorities will nail you for 16% of the value of that housing at the price that they find online.
  25. 1 point
    I have created a tutorial on how to maximise youtube quality. Ultimately the SDR compression is still inadequate to underwater video however it makes sense to maximise what is possible With my method I achieve 20-25% bitrate increase in the final file YouTube plays compared to a Final Cut Pro export I provide the handbrake presets to subscribers of my channel and blog
  26. 1 point
    Good luck with your search. Took me two years to find a second one.
  27. 1 point
    Thank you for that. You have some really nice photos on that page! I can only hope I will get comparable results with my WA shooting as I go forward with my new camera. I have not gotten it in the water yet. Still waiting on my housing. But, I was shooting an E-M10 the last few years and when I started using a focus light on it, I did notice an immediate large improvement in my focus accuracy. I have done most of my photography on the wrecks off the coast of NC - usually 100 feet or deeper - so the ambient light is not often what you'd really want for your AF system...
  28. 1 point
    @stuartv – With regards to the focusing on the A7rIII with 90 mm macro, it really does hunt a lot (even with updated firmware). A focus light might well improve performance, but I've tended to use manual focus with peaking. It works okay. I've written up some detailed information here: https://naturetripper.com/underwater-macro-photography My understanding (based on reviews, not personal experience) is that autofocus performance with the A7rIV and 90 mm has improved.
  29. 1 point
    I get that a smaller sensor has more depth of field for the same f/stop. But, I'm unclear on what you mean when you say "simply better DOF". You shoot a Nikon DX with f/4.0 and you'll get the same DOF as a FF camera shooting at f/6.0, right? So, can't you get the same DOF with either sensor size, just by using the right lens and f/stop? I don't know if shooting a FF in crop mode makes any difference to DOF, as you don't need to change exposure settings when switching between FF and crop. So, the parts that are in focus, will still be in focus and the parts that are not in focus will still be not in focus. I think. Another way of looking at it, when you switch to crop mode, your effective focal length is 1.5x. Your aperture has stayed the same physical size, so your effective f-stop is divided by 1.5. Net result, crop factor cancels itself out and DOF stays the same. I think. As for focus speed, I don't know anything about the Sony 90mm and the a7r3, but from what I've read, I don't think focus speed with the r4 is an issue. And I can't cite a source, but it SEEMS like I've seen mention somewhere that focus speed with the 90mm on the a7r3 was fixed (improved?) by a firmware update. I really don't know and have no personal experience with the 90mm. But, I have to ask, what is your statement about the 90 focus being slow based on? r3 or r4? Latest firmware in the camera and lens or not? I am by NO means trying to say you're not right. I'm just trying to understand the basis of your information.
  30. 1 point
    Hi, why a dx or aps-c camera for macro? Simply better dof. Dont know if only selecting crop mode, will bring the same... And if i compare the D500 with the Sigma 105mm OS against the Sony 90mm on a Axxxx, there are worlds in focusing speed in between... Dont know how it is on the A7 or A9 models. And i would only use single point focusing mode with macro, otherwise the small sharp part is anywhere. The Sony 90mm is sharp, no question, but slow.... Regards, Wolfgang
  31. 1 point
    The wetpixel forum in the new form awards points to people that have liked or loved post and nothing to thank you as it does not parse the text Moving on with the times
  32. 1 point
    Certainly - while I did get away unscathed in Coz I have no intention of returning to any part of Mexico for any reason until they get their house in order on the shakedowns and fraud (that includes the taxi drivers...). So many other amazing places to go.
  33. 1 point
    Time to start e-mailing the Mexican tourist board it sounds darn stright the 90s was some time back-but its when the life was there big time-Like Palau in the 80s-way better than Nowdays Less trash in the pacific as well.-I'm still diving the planet its just further away to get to the good stuff
  34. 1 point
    Hi, I'm just sharing my short footage using easy custom white balance method on my Canon G7X in a Nauticam housing with Inon UWL-H100 lens. I'm still learning how to edit underwater footage even though I've been shooting for quite a while now. Do comments and subscribe to my Youtube channel if you like the content. That would be appreciated! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Etwi6g9sg4
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    For years I have used a fibreglass scratch pen/pencil. Works really well and shift all the green corrosion and gunk that you get on pins. And as the glass threads work like a propelling pencil, you can wind them out to get right down to the bottom of a bulkhead if necessary. Only the size of a normal pen so I always take one on trips. Amazon UK have them at about £3.50. Wouldn't be without one.
  37. 1 point
    Stix floats are not enough with shorter arms to lift the GH5 when you have video lights hence my suggestion to get the keldan floats they are expensive but make the light neutral from there you can try and use stix otherwise it will go down with 5+8 arms even when full of jumbo floats (1.6 Kg lift vs 2.0 Kg of the rig)
  38. 1 point
    Do they still work? No need to go crazy if so, though Deoxit is good stuff. More worrying is the threads which may glue themselves to the threads on your sync cable after a bit. I've found it beneficial to remove the build up of gunk and leave open to dry periodically.
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    You can also sometimes get the group on your side. It can be very helpful to have 5 pairs of eyes in the water looking for small subjects instead just your own, if they are inclined to point them out to you. Helps to offer to get some diving photos, as many divers have relatively few good shots of them diving.
  41. 1 point
    Tim When I look through my wife's wardrobe and find a dress with tags on, she usually replies; "Oh, that old thing." Try that with the lenses. They are all black, round, and look pretty much the same... What could go wrong? ian
  42. 1 point
    Thanks Tim! It's a nice story I think. I know it sounds melodramatic but I was honestly very shaken when I finally got back on the forum and contacted Ian to buy the lens and it was already sold. Very disappointing moment indeed. So for it to end like this is a great feeling. A Nikonos lens on a Seacam housing is about as good as it gets I think. the only way it can be improved at this time is to get a D850 and Seacam housing for it. I am happy to be getting into a D800 for now - plus I picked up a Seacam D2X housing for my D2X so I can use this lens with my D2X. Sure its long in the tooth but still good as a backup in the very remote area that I live in. Rgds (Hope Santa surprises you with a lens you lust for)
  43. 1 point
    On a photography forum it is suprising you don't know how to resize a photo!
  44. 1 point
    101% agreed... Though it'a abit late... But I just ordered my E-M1-II online due to the irresistable 12.12 promotion in our country. I believe based on the features of E-M1-II and E-M5-III which are 99% similar, I doubt any inprovement over them will ever impress me to justify the price I will be paying. Other than larger MP and maybe wider Base ISO. And therefore, after thinking abt it for 6 months... I went ahead with the purchase. Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk
  45. 1 point
    Hi all - I just published a 15 minute tutorial on my YouTube Channel showing editing workflow on an image of humpback whales. Hope this is helpful!
  46. 1 point
    I purchased a Nikkor 16-35mm lens from Mr. Grouper. Transaction was smooth and shipping was quick. Package arrived a day early and lens was well packed. I would purchase from again as well as recommend Mr. Grouper. Thanks Again
  47. 1 point
    I would like to see how the dive community responds to this high tariff before I ever go back. I paid close to $50 in fees for a 7 year old Olympus plastic housing for my little mirrorless Olympus EM-5. I'm shooting with a Z7 now and this Mexican Photographer's tax stopped me from purchasing a housing for it for this trip. I used my old Olympus set up instead which was not ideal, but I'm not about to pay out money on high extortion fees, so the UW camera housing industry just lost a big sale. If you can cancel your Baja destination to go somewhere else, that would be one way to avoid the UW housing fees. If enough divers divert from Baja, it will inevitably affect the money stream. The dive industry there may take notice and plead their case to the government to cease the extortion.. Otherwise, spend $$ on an international carry-on ThinkTank suitcase which is soft sided, and put your housing & cameras in that. As long as they do not inspect your bag at customs, you may be able to fly under the radar, but be prepared with your credit card in Cabo san Lucas or La Paz if they look in your bag.
  48. 1 point
    Hi Dave, yeah sure, here are a few. Like I say, taken on the A6000, Sigma 19mm f2.8 lens, Meikon housing, 1 strobe (InonZ330, some of them may have been taken with one Sea&SeaYs-02 strobe before I had the Inon). I've got a Meikon wet lens attached to the housing. The A6000 is 1.5 crop, therefore the Sigma lens is effectively about 28mm, but the wet lens widens it a bit, I'm guessing to about 20 or 22mm?? Not sure. Anyway, it's a total workhorse. Been used for I'd say about 600 dives over the last 3 years, as well as daily blasted on land. I dread to think how many clicks its done and (touch wood) it's still going. People argue that the Sony's have that 'weird colour science' but I've found it's totally fixable in LR. Here are a link to some sample images... (can't upload them direct here as it's saying I can only upload max 0.98mb. Sample images **edit** Oh and forgot to mention re video, obviously there's no 4k but it does have zebras which I use constantly and it absolutely enables you to nail exposure every time. No complaints about the auto focus either.
  49. 1 point
    Don't write off your A6000. I've been using it UW with a Sigma 19mm and Meikon housing for a couple years now. It's a lot of bang for your buck. Don't get me wrong, I'm hoping to upgrade soon but would still recommend the A6000 to anyone. Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk
  50. 1 point
    I have published a four-part online tutorial on underwater photography in Cenotes. It is based on Yucatan in Mexico and deals with the preparation, equipment, lighting conditions and design of exceptional shots in these very mystical environments. http://panoceantravel.com/?page_id=1032&lang=en Have fun with the videos that contain English subtitles.

Sponsors

Advertisements



  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
×
×
  • Create New...