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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/21/21 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Hi, in November I have been on a liveaboard in the south of the Red Sea, afterwards i went diving from land for a week. With the necessary patience, I was able to film a lot of natural behavior. Enjoy watching! Alex,
  2. 3 points
  3. 2 points
    After looking at the Backscatter page and talking with them there is zero advantage to getting a tg6. I'm just going to bring my EPL10 with the kit lens and basic housing. It's nearly the same size as the tg6 in a housing AND I already have everything I need to get going. I know it's not going to produce the best photos but it will still capture photos and memories.
  4. 2 points
    I made two dives today and everything worked perfectly. Between new fiber cables and some cleaning of the full light path the problem has been resolved. Thanks everyone for your suggestions!
  5. 2 points
    Not be pedantic, but neither of your lens choices is rectilinear. The WWL lenses definitely have some distortion to them. Nowhere near a true fisheye lens, but it is noticeable. For context, I currently shoot with a Sony a6400 and use both the Sony 10-18mm and the WWL-C wet lens. I generally use them for different things. The corners on the WWL-C on equivalent camera settings is better, but I shoot a lot of wrecks and usually prefer the 10-18. I'm starting to work on a A7rIV setup and hope to test it with the Sony 24mm and the WWL-C lens in the next 3-4 weeks. - brett
  6. 2 points
    Don't ever judge image quality from the pictures posted on this forum. The Forum software does absolutely horrendous things to the images here and you can also only upload image files that are ridiculously tiny. Maybe, if it's important to you ask the OP to send you high res files separately.
  7. 2 points
    100% agree with Alex Mustard. You can score negligible weight/size, as major problems are outside of housing itself: viewfinder, ports, domes, lights, arms etc. As result you will save 200-300-400 grams with a lot of cost for new system It's sad but true
  8. 2 points
    Frankly you either change lens system or you are stuck with the bulk. I switched to the M43 and it is far more compact (especially the lenses) and the quality is excellent unless you print greater than A2. I sold my Canon lenses and it was the best decision I made. I can lug all my equipment in the airplane cabin (with some accurate planning). I would love to something even more compact but unfortunately unless you stick to UW macro there is nothing more compact that gets close to M43 quality. Most 1" camera sensor manufacturer never optimize their system for UW use. Nikon was the only one that did that in the past but never renewed that market. So I would say that because of the available lenses and compactness M43 is top choice. Andrea
  9. 2 points
    Fully agree @Isaac Szabo, the 90mm lens was and is very usable... not quite sure what the author was trying to communicate by saying it was "unusable" - brings into question the more positive points made in the article.
  10. 2 points
    I have the 90mm and love it. I have used both lenses and would prefer the 90mm for autofocus.
  11. 2 points
    Yes, avoid this We all laughed including himself......
  12. 2 points
    I think a key difference in cropping while shooting while cropping in post is about shooting what you see. If you use the APS-C feature on the camera, your EVF and the screen shows you what the cropped image would be like. You can make make the small adjustments to fill the frame, while staying further away from the subject due to focal length advantage. So, the cropping process is same, but your workflow changes. Seeing the crop in camera allows for better composition, frame filling etc.
  13. 2 points
    I understand that you are all photographers... I feel like a water drop in the desert... what I'm trying to explain is that while you could use that option for photos I guess it's mainly video related. I had an A7S for a short time and it had the ability to work in APSC mode. I always thought this mode was for video because it allowed me to use APSC lens (I think it was the 10-18mm) and fill the entire 4K frame with the 10mm zoom. I could have worked FF and zoomed in to cover the sensor but for the reasons explained in my previous post, there would have been a big difference. At that time A7 and A7S had several limits in video. Also in a video editor it is very inconvenient to have to precisely trim frames. Just my 2c.
  14. 2 points
  15. 2 points
    What you are seeking to use is called a polecam. There are a few threads on them here on Wetpixel. I have been using polecams for years to photograph salmon. My longest is a 2.5 meter long piece of surplus aluminum tubing. This is about as long as I can transport in the bed of a pickup truck. I have also used an old metal monopod. After a few uses the sections would not slide due silt getting into the mechanism. So I leave it as a permanently extended monopod. I use various ball mounts and other hardware such as made by ULCS to attach the housing to the pole. I have a few picks taken over the years of my setups. More can be found in past Wetpixel postings. The first 2 images show my long pole being used.
  16. 2 points
    Deposits and corrosion from ocean water may have gunked the joint. Put a drop or two of penetrating oil on the joint between the valve and the housing, let is soak in overnight, then unscrew per Bill's suggestion. Carefully and completely wipe the oil, and any deposits, after removing, and replace the O ring as it may be damaged.
  17. 1 point
    Canon announced a cinema version of its EOS R5. Specs 45mp full-frame sensor, similar to EOS R5 Photo/Video Switch Changes Settings Menu JPEG/C-RAW, 12-Bit Cinema RAW Light Dual Pixel CMOS AF with Eye Detection NO IBIS Micro HDMI Canon Log 3 Lacks Internal NDs Unlimited 8K30P recording in Cinema RAW Light. XF-AVC and MP4 Timecode in/out Multipurpose hot shoe Active cooling 3/8″ or 1/4″ mounting point on the EVF for a top handle. Full-size HDMI Port CFexpress Type-B and SD UHS-II Slots Dual-Slot Record, Unlimited Record Time Timecode DIN Port, Multi-Function Shoe 4-Channel Audio Record with XLR Adapter 13 Reassignable Buttons Cooling fan. $4500 that would be 4500 € in the magic exchange world of IT. (Less than I thought). Canon PR dept is working at full force and the internet is already full of minireview and so on. Let's see how long Nauticam takes to announce its housing. https://www.usa.canon.com/internet/portal/us/home/products/details/cameras/cinema-eos/eos-r5-c
  18. 1 point
    Lack of the rumoured 8k60 and IBIS makes this kinda "meh" compared to the already capable r5? It only solves the overheating issue, which I think most people using the R5 underwater don't really see as a limitation?
  19. 1 point
    The "because" is actually fairly interesting? Strobes that support specific camera manufacturers provide that support via a wired hot shoe connection that allows the camera computer to talk digitally to the strobe computer. Different camera manufacturers developed their own proprietary flash protocol: Canon protocol is called E-TTL, Nikon is called i-TTL, Olympus/Panasonic is called ???. They are all different and incompatible with each other. Firing the flash in this model is fairly simple: - the camera instructs the strobe to preflash at a defined power setting - the camera calculates how much power is needed based upon the light detected - the camera tells the strobe how much power is required - the camera then instructs the strobe to fire Minus the manufacturer specific wired cable you must resort to using your strobe as an "optical remote" strobe. Firing the flash in this model is more of a "follow the leader" and hope for the best: - the camera fires it's onboard flash (the preflash), hoping that the remote strobe will follow suit - the camera calculate show much power is needed based upon the light detected - the camera then fires it's onboard flash for the calculated duration, hoping that the remote strobe will closely follow suit Cameras without an onboard flash require the use of a hot shoe optical trigger that takes the place of the onboard flash. To further complicate the picture, some camera / flash combos support an optical (as opposed to electrical) trigger protocol. The Olympus RC mode is an example of this. The UFL-2 and UFL-3 strobes support Olympus optical RC mode.
  20. 1 point
    My tip would be to use Protune to set a flat profile, ie limit the corrections the camera is trying to do (white balance native, colors flat), clock the max iso to 800 (or eventually 1600), min iso 100. Footage will be bland out of the box, but limiting in-camera adjustements will allow you to white balance better in post, and have more to work with while colour grading. View angle wise, linear mode is your friend in most cases. I leave the shutter speed on auto - tried to follow the "180° rule" but results were not convincing. The GoPro is probably boosting the shutter speeds (which probably explains the particle/viz clear up effects these cameras have) but I don't find it really problematic. A good, well balanced red filter also helps - I use UR Pros, but I think the choice is limited for the GP10, since there are no real filter adapters for the housing as far as I know, except the Inon and the Flip system. If I go down the GP10 road, I'll probably go for a Keldan filter or Magic Filter sheet placed inside the housing. We were just working in the Maldives for a few months and shooting clips on the GoPro7B - water was still quite green, with lots of particles in the water where we were in South Ari Atoll, which made life difficult when working with the footage, but it was clearing up when we left last week, starting to get really nice blue viz. This clip was shot last Nov. in very average conditions at Kudarah Thila (depth 25 to 15m), in ambient light with a flat profile + UR Pro filter on a GoPro 7 Black. Colours would certainly pop more if we had had better viz, but the flat profile offered enough flexibility to get something acceptable for my tastes. Best to not use a stick as movement on the roll axis isn't great for stablisation - ideally get a tray of sorts, with 2 handles. I'm shooting small clips while guiding, so only have the GoPro on a coil retractor, and hold the housing directly with 2 hands, works fine on the 7 so I'm guessing on the 10 it should be butter smooth. hope this helps b
  21. 1 point
    I agree that OM's future is a bit up in the air. The EM-1 III went a bit backwards compared to MK II and they are stuck in a 20MP rut with a small sensor. They also have one of the best lens lineups for underwater, as they did with the 43 series DSLR's. The Nikon Z7 II is twice the price point of EM-1 III but has improved in many ways since I first reviewed Z7. The AF is much better but still not on par with Canon and Sony full frame current generation cameras. Nikon Z has the most limited lens line for mirrorless and the cameras seem to be coming out slowly. I now have the new Sony A7 IV in house for review and the AF is on par with the A1. It is slower in the area of high speed about 6 frames a second mechanical in full RAW. This is not limiting for most UW work. For me the 33MP is a sweet spot between most of the 20-24MP range and the 45-60MP range cameras. The best bag for the buck in strobes is the Inon Z330 type II. Unlike the ONEUW the TTL is not built into the strobe but can be achieved with a TTL converter as an after market addition. Video guys will not be happy with rolling shutter.
  22. 1 point
    Just wanted to share and discuss with other video shooters using A7SIII. Until this trip I have been shooting always in SLOG3, however for this last weekend I tweaked a HLG profile and shot exclusively with that. I found it fine to use, although colours can be a bit odd to my eye. Always keen to hear from and learn other Sony shooters settings for underwater video. Enjoying the process. All shot in 4K 4:2:2 10 bit, 60fps, PP10, HLG, with A7SIII, 28mm F2 inside WWL-1, using a combination of nitescuba NSV80 lights which I'm currently testing, and my existing Keldan lights.
  23. 1 point
    I have reviewed both the Tamron 17-28 F/2.8 and the Sony FE 14mm F/1.8 for Underwater Photography magazine issues#119 and #122. The Tamron is far better than the Sony FE 16-35mm F/4 and about on par with the Sony FE 16-35mm F/2.8 GM. The Sony FE 14mm F/1.8 is a no brainer over the Sigma. If you sign-in with your E-mail and go to the back issues you will also find my reviews for the Sony A7 III and several Ikelite housings. You need the largest eight inch dome for best results with both lenses or a 230mm if you go with another housing brand. If you are buying all new equipment you may also want to consider the newly released A7 IV it is better in just about every way over the A7 III. when you go to back issues enter my name Phil Rudin in the search engine and you can find the reviews more easily.
  24. 1 point
    I agree. If IBIS is not in the camera, it should not make any rattling/clanking noise, unless they left any hardware behind in some units(magnets or something else). I'll take my chances with a 2nd unit and assess my options. If the 2nd camera has the same issue, I might send it to Panasonic for repair. Hope I get one of the good batch. None of these cameras are in stores anymore (i.e. BestBuy in my area). They all ship from a warehouse hr and a half away, which I asked to go and pick it up(hence test it to see if it makes the noise) but was told that is not allowed. None of the employees are allowed to open the camera boxes either, and check, so they won't break the seals; so it's basically hit or miss. I was told if the 2nd unit has the same issue, you have 14 days to return it and blah blah blah.. I also agree about the Aquatica housing..actually it looks much better up close than in pictures, feels solid and well made. Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk
  25. 1 point
    I am a long time Panasonic user and have 2 GH5 and Nauticam housing. Same thing another buddy. Another buddy has a GH5S and Aquatica case. The camera is not supposed to make any noise. The GH5S does not have IBIS unlike the GH5. Neither makes any noise even if you hit them on the ground. I know by now we are all used to libe on the bleeding edge of technology and expect a new camera every year. But I can assure you that even in 2021, the GH5S is still a great camera. Double native ISO, V-Log. A solid beast very different from GH5. By the way I see the Aquatica housing every dive and I have also used it: in my opinion it is much better than the Nauticam I have. Perfect controls and the external coating is wonderful. Bye
  26. 1 point
    Thanks Isaac, I appreciate the reply I have both the zen 4" and Nauticam 8.5" domes and recommended extensions, so I'm happy they are set up correctly. I don't need ultra sharp corners for these trips as I'm mainly shooting blue water corners, it's more the inner 2/3rds of the frame Im concerned about. I also don't need to shoot wide open. I think I need to stay off the internet and just enjoy my photos! cheers Mike
  27. 1 point
    I have done the same thing - used the Z6 with the excellent 24-70 kit lens for most of my topside shooting last trip to Hawaii (b4 the pandemic). Had the FTZ in case I wanted to use one my macro lenses (which I did not get around to on this trip). Found this on Facebook so here courtesy of Seasport Divers' posting there. Well protected against solar radiation and holding the Z6 off Niihau Island (in the background).
  28. 1 point
    Hi all, these are my last photos taken, the firsts of the year, in Ibiza, Mediterranean Sea. I hope you like it SVF06012022032 SVF02122022183
  29. 1 point
    The decreasing demandon the market, together with the chip shortage, will slow down the release rate of new models and also will decrease the number of models available. This is bad news for us, but good news for our wallets... Wolfgang
  30. 1 point
    My feeling is that you are overcleaning and may well be causing problems. Having 3 of 4 strobes leak sounds like a user-induced failure. I've got the opposite approach. I rarely clean my o-rings, especially by removing them from the housing. I *may* do that once a year before a big dive trip, but I certainly don't do it in the field. My philosophy is that the more I handle the o-rings, the more likely I am to induce a hair or some contaminant underneath the o-ring. I look at them closely after a dive and before sealing up the housing again, and I usually run a finger around the o-ring to feel for issues. How has this 'technique' worked over the years? No leaks. I've got Canon point-n-shoot housings used for years without issues, though that sort of camera tended to be replaced every 2-3 years. My Sony RX100 has a Nauticam housing bought in 2015 and still going on the original o-rings. My Nikon D810 housing went four years without a problem, now replaced by a D850 housing. If you start clean, why pull an o-ring from the housing to clean underneath it after a dive or even a week? It's just a great way to get a hair in there. That said, I rarely deal with short diving and the sand it brings along. I also don't usually have to open my housing on a boat or outside my hotel room. I have enough battery in the camera for at least two dives, unless I'm doing a lot of video. That helps a lot with limiting exposure on my Nikons. With the Sony RX100 I had to open the housing after every dive and change a battery on the boat.
  31. 1 point
    If you're looking to downsize but stay with Nikon interchangeable lenses, perhaps look at Z50 with 16-50mm and WWL-C? This will get you a reasonably compact rig, and you can use F-mount lenses via FTZ adapter.
  32. 1 point
    I agree. It would be neat if there was a way to add a second processor to the battery handgrip. You could have the EM1 (without the grip) install the grip and now you have the horsepower (second battery and processor) of the EM1x.
  33. 1 point
    Local shore diving in the Northeast, while sometimes challenging, has provided a great distraction over the past two years. Last year, we started our dive season a few months earlier to get to see the amazing abundance and variety of Atlantic nudibranch species. Here are some of my favorite photos from 2021, all taken near Rockport, MA. Identification is sometimes difficult, especially when trying to differentiate some of the flabellina species. All the images were taken with a Canon G7x II (Ikelite housing), 1x Sea&Sea YS-01 Strobe, Inon UCL100 macro lens and a focus light. LR and PS editing included color correction (WB), some cropping, backscatter removal and sharpening. Critique welcome. Flabellina (most likely gracilis) Doto formosa Dendronotus frondosus (aka Bushy-Backed Nudibranch) Flabellina (probably verrucosa, aka Red-Finger Aeolis)
  34. 1 point
    I spoke with Reef Photo. They pointed this out. Has anyone tried it on a mounted WWL-1B in the water? https://www.nauticam.com/products/neoprene-cover-for-wwl-1b
  35. 1 point
    My first clamps were the bargain type (brand was D&D), initally good performance but after about a year of use they became very weak. Now I use Nauticam and UCLS and they endure now for years... Similar situation with the arms: first cheap D&D, replaced later by Nauticam. No difference in the strenght of clamping, but Nauticam arms are considerably lighter, especially good for air travel... When I consider the amount of money spent for the entire UW photography equipment, the cost for clamps and arms is a very small part. I will not go for cheapos again, in the long term they are even more expensive since one buys double... Wolfgang
  36. 1 point
    Super underwater video, gets even better towards the end. Great composition, lighting and editing, most enjoyable.
  37. 1 point
    Thanks Matt! The dolphins were great! It was at the house reef, i had them for myself for 20min, just a few snorkelers above me. I stayed at one spot, didn´t move much, the dolphins came close to me several times and were very relaxed and interested. After more divers and snorkelers came in which chased the dolphins the show ended after 25min
  38. 1 point
    Yes but again the camera electronics has to resize FF frames on the fly and this process is highly power consuming. I made some tests and on that old camera, video obtained with the APSC settings were far superior than FF video. This was the main difference between A7S and R line. Nearly impossible to rescale a 50 Mp video frame without introducing some artifacts. Latest camera are able to rescale them on the fly using powerful algorithms. If you read camera specification you will discover that sadly many FF camera apply a default crop factor when shooting video. You bought a FF camera and you discover that on video it's nearly an APSC.
  39. 1 point
    Hi Tom. I’ve just bought Fujimi FJBH-Z1 tripod head and found it very useful at first glance. It can be attached to monopod or tripod in various ways and also can work without monopod and tripod. Here are some pics of this device.
  40. 1 point
    As someone who has many years of experience shooting in shallow freshwater environments, I can say that while strobes can be helpful, they are certainly not required (unless you want to shoot at night). I personally have done all of my shooting using natural light. The most important thing for the types of photos you're wanting to take is to use a very wide angle lens (preferably a fisheye) with as small a dome port as possible (so you can get as close as possible to your subjects). I don't have any experience with Outex housings, but pairing a fisheye with their 120mm dome might work out OK. Meikon/Sea Frogs is another budget option to look into, and they offer a 4" (100mm) dome. Another good option is the Sony 28mm or 28-60mm paired with the Nauticam WWL-1 (which is what Dave Herasimtschuk uses), though it's not quite as wide as a fisheye (130 vs 180).
  41. 1 point
    I've been reading some of the other previous threads on tripods, but they are generally about tripods for housings & cameras. I recently got two new Keldan video lights and I want to start using my older video lights for off-board lighting (wrecks). I've done this in the past but just placed the light on the sand or inside the wreck but it doesn't always work well. What are people using (tripods?) for placing off-board video lights (mine are pretty heavy - Big Blue CBP 15k). Thanks, - brett
  42. 1 point
    Would you mind posting some wide-angle shots taken with them? Lighting up a two-centimeter nudibranch is one thing; doing it to a two-meter sea fan is quite another, so I'm curious as to how they would manage something like this:
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    "do you know what can be used as a heavy plate" A diving weight perhaps? Or a standard gopro tray system, to which you fix a couple of diving weights with cable ties to make it sit tight on the bottom?
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    I had my best luck by choosing the eels that seemed the least skittish to start with, then habituating them slowly and holding my breath as long as possible.
  47. 1 point
    Hey guys, an update on this. I took my Tokina to a local repair shop, they inspected it, found out that there's really something wrong with the aperture, and told me that the entire aperture mechanism needs to be replaced. Unfortunately they cannot do it here, as they are not authorised by Tokina to do the repairs, so they need to send it to them.
  48. 1 point
    I’ve used 3 different tokina 10-17 lenses over >10 years with a Nikon D90, D7100 and D7200 and have had exactly the same experience. When using an auto exposure mode, they invariably overexpose by 2 to 3 stops. I’ve accepted this as an issue with the Nikon metering system, and have learned to compensate whenever using an auto exposure mode, e.g. shutter priority for whales. When shooting in full manual mode for most diving with strobes, the problem disappears. It doesn’t bother me anymore and has become a normal part of my dive planning.
  49. 1 point
    See below a limited summary of the equipment setup and and test results. This summary is not designed to be a comparison to other setups for the Canon 8-15 on m43, simply an investigation into the feasibility of this specific equipment setup. https://www.flickr.com/photos/193329934@N02/albums/72157719526251695/with/51278536908/ The equipment fits comfortably. The extension built into the Zen DP-100-N120CR minidome removes the requirement to use a N120 extension ring. IMG_20210627_102210 by Jonathan Crowe, on Flickr My experience is that the operation of using the knob on the port adaptor to adjust the zoom on the 8-15 was a bit stiff and clunky. @Interceptor121 and @Architeuthis, did you experience the same? I'm wondering if the dimensions of the zoom ring adaptor I had printed are a bit off and I'm experience sub-optimal performance. With no extension ring, the positioning of the lens front element is 5mm closer to the glass dome that is determined to be optimal by Zen and Nauticam. This is because the 1x adaptor is 5mm deeper than the Metabones Speed Booster Ultra 0.71x Lens Adaptor that the Nauticam N85-N120 34.7mm Port Adaptor is designed for. IMG_20210627_101826 by Jonathan Crowe, on Flickr It is difficult to determine the impact on image quality and field of view, with this deviation from optimal entry pupil positioning, in the absence of comparison images captured using the 30mm N120 extension ring and N120 140mm dome. With a recent opportunity to dive on the North Norfolk cost eliminated by poor weather and diving conditions, I resorted to the controlled photography environment of my kitchen sink. IMG_20210627_163003 by Jonathan Crowe, on Flickr The subject was a small spool with line positioned on a small ceramic bowl. The base of bowl was touching the dome shade. This was to simulate golf ball sized subject with interesting skin texture and facial features on a rocky outcrop. The bath mat has a very subtle rough texture and was positioned so the printed images were close to the corners of the frame. I think the image quality is excellent. The depth of field necessary to resolve the texture on the bath mat is achieved at f8 and corner sharpness is not improved by stopping down any further than f11. P1111054 by Jonathan Crowe, on Flickr More images at different apertures are available at the Flickr link at the top of this post. I saw no point in testing the lens at 15mm in the sink as I could not position any suitably sized subjects and a reasonable distance from the port. I'm happy with this setup as it delivers very good image quality and accomplishes my goal of fitting all my equipment in a IATA compliant carry on rucksack. This would have been very difficult/impossible if an extension ring and 140mm dome were substituted. If I ever get a free house in the future I plan on testing the zoom range and IQ of the Canon 8-15 FE and the Panasonic 14-42ii behind the AOI-UWL-09 wet lens in the bathtub with subjects at different distances. There is very little analysis of the AOI wide wet lens on WetPixel, so I plan to make a contribution. I'll be diving off of the Farne islands in September 2021 so my objective is to have a better understanding of the capabilities and limitations of both lens setups before I go and deploy them in the real world! I'm happy to receive any thoughts, feedback or suggestions for further testing.
  50. 1 point

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