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  1. 4 points
    Link to full album HERE Few shots Tompot Blenny Mediterranean by Interceptor121, on Flickr Sunseeker by Interceptor121, on Flickr Hole in the wall by Interceptor121, on Flickr Gennaro and Carmela by Interceptor121, on FlickrBreeding Male Anthias by Interceptor121, on Flickr
  2. 3 points
    Some excellent points brought up by Tom in this thread regarding how and where you shoot. I would also be interested to know how Isaac is adapting the Nikonos RS 13mm to the Sony FF cameras. A third point not mentioned is that many of the higher MP full frame cameras also make excellent APS-C cameras. My Sony A7R IV can be moved into APS-C mode with a single button push extending all lenses by 1.5X at 26MP (21MP with A1) with better image quality than most native APS-C cameras. These systems are also smaller and lighter than most DSLR APS-C systems. Both cameras noted above can also be used with the WWL-1/1B and WWL-C water contact optics to avoid needing the large 230mm dome ports. Like Alex I am frequently ask questions about which sensor size is best and I can make a case for FF, APS-C or 43/M43 depending on the discussed budget, weight, size, lens selections and much more. One size definitely does not fit all.
  3. 3 points
    In regard to the original question of Sony FE 14mm F/1.4 v. FE 26-60 plus WWL-1/1B the 28-60 would be the winner with WWL-1 and even better with WACP-1. The FE 14mm can also be used with WACP-2 which would provide the ultimate in image quality for underwater and for splits. Like most things photographic the final selection will factor-in cost, weight, system size and more. Like Waterpixel has noted and disregarding FF fisheyes I have used the 230mm dome port with a verity of FF lenses including several 24mm's, 20mm's, Batis 18 and Rokinon 18, FE 12-24 F/4 & F/2.8, FE 16-35 F/4 & F/2.8, Tamron 17-28mm F/2.8 with Sea & Sea correction filter, Rokinon 14mm F/2.8 and a few more. Of the fixed lenses I like the FE 14mm F/1.8 the best and of the zooms I like the Tamron 17-28 F/2.8. I have also used the Sony FE 28-60, with WWL-1 and 1B, WACP-1 and several closeup lenses. I have also tested these lenses on cameras from A7C 24MP to A7R IV 61MP, I have also tested the A7R IV in APS-C mode, 26MP and A1 APS-C 21MP. The switch to APS-C is a single button push and extends the focal length of the lens by 1.5X's, so longer than the 16-35 at the 35mm end but with less resolution. Like many on this site I use my equipment above water as well as underwater so the 14mm F/1.4 was an investment I made with above water use in mind. The 28-60 is a lens that would never be my first, second or third choice above water. Also since I can't afford the WAPC-2 the 14mm is now my go to lens for splits with the 230mm dome port. I also would not spend the $2000.00 plus for the Sony FE 16-35mm F/2.8 because it is not a lens I would have a lot of use for above water. The Tamron 17-28mm F/2.8 is far better than the Sony FE 16-35mm F/4 and has the advantage of a 67mm filter thread size also used on the 28-75 and 70-180 zooms as well as several fixed tamron lenses. I find the WWL-1B which I own very easy to travel with along with the 90mm macro. I own fisheye lenses including the Sony A 16mm F/2.8, Canon 8-16mm and have tested others but use them sparingly for my personal work. Thanks for reading my review and I hope you continue to follow uwpmag.com.
  4. 3 points
    With regards to video you can shoot all the way to ISO 5000 and still retain colour however I don’t really do that There is a DR improvement on photos at base iso of at least 2/3 ev and the camera does better in backlit shots The new menu system is an improvement actually and there are additional exposure tools Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. 2 points
    Thanks Isaac, keep me posted on the progress with the Nikonos manual lens mounts. Thanks to all of those who went a bit off topic to expend the conversation.
  6. 2 points
    Here’s a quick overview: I separated the front element from the rest of the lens and used it to make a port (like Seacam does), and I mounted the rest of the lens onto the camera body using the Techart Leica to Sony AF adapter (and a Nikon to Leica adapter). I also had to make some gears and a knob for the aperture control. So I end up with autofocus but manual aperture. I'm sure it doesn’t work as well as getting the lens converted to work on DSLRs and using it on a Nikon DSLR, but it’s surprisingly usable. Another interesting thing is that I can use this same approach to attain autofocus with the older Nikonos lenses. One of my next projects will be to do just that with the Sea&Sea 12mm fisheye.
  7. 2 points
    I am not suggesting it would work for you. I think you know exactly what you need. Some cameras like the Olympus EM1X take two batteries and have the same form factor of a professional DSLR. I am not aware of cameras that can house a battery grip or spare battery sorry if this created confusion. What I can say though is that even with my mirrorless camera using a trigger I can take over 600 shots and do a whole day of diving without opening the housing and the battery is 50%. Yet in general terms a DSLR will always outdo a mirrorless on that and if it has a grip shape with effectively two batteries the gap will be larger For what concerns white balance your freshwater is not blue and perhaps more green so the white balance is less of an issue with an RGGB bayer sensor unless the water is red. Surely you make adjustments you don't do but that is because the are not required not because the are not possible. I am amused when people make comparison to land shooting but do not actually do land photography. I am not suggesting you don't but I happen to do a lot of various things as you know at the edges of what a camera can do so I do have an idea based on practical experience. I.e. to talk about milky way photography and what is like it does help to actually do it and the same with night photography or other low light disciplines. Surely there are differences shooting underwater compared to land. I need to shoot 100m to get haze while in water just a few meters, there are issue of light transmission and scattering of blue. However all those issues do not care about your sensor size more than anything else. so unless there is a more clear articulation of which gap is increased i remain of the opinion that underwater or on land the benefits of sensor size and even rig size are very similar
  8. 2 points
    As you mention above this thread is not about format but topside vs underwater. My local freshwaters are stained to varying degree - it looks like the fish are swimming in CocaCola! Thus WB adjustment is extreme compared to topside. I do this in LR so it is only metadata within LR. Keep in mind I do most of my shooting by remote control so I am generally not looking through the viewfinder (without the special Seacam accessory) and do have not access to menus without withdrawing the housing from the water which would defeat the purpose of remote control - disturbing my subject. List the housings you refer to above - I am a Seacam user and not familiar with any. Nauticam has some housings for an auxillary battery but have no idea of the benefit and how well it would work for me. Besides the cold and long duration I have managed to take thousands of shots during one shoot - record is over 10K with the D4s the day shot in continuous mode.
  9. 2 points
    I do considerably more color adjustment compared to topside for many if not most of my freshwater shots so no they are not the same. As well I tend to use ISO up to 12,800 (1Dx) and 16,000 (D4s) with autoISO and these cameras far more underwater. I have only used super high ISO for shooting with very slow vintage lenses such as a 500mm mirror lens for topside shooting. A not sensor size per se but camera advantage is that currently only certain FF cameras use large batteries (gripped models; see models already mentioned). (I did used gripped APS-C cameras (no longer made) a few years ago for the same advantage. Not sure if the D500 accessory grip uses them or not but I known of no housings for this combo.) These big batteries are an advantage for the cold water (a local stream has a mean temp of 4C - reported in an MS thesis - it is always numbing cold) I typically shoot in for long duration - camera is powered up for hours. Even so I have manged to run these batteries down to 0. Swapping batteries is a bit more challenging underwater compared to topside - in my case the o-rings need to be cleaned every time the housing is opened do to sand and silt in the water.
  10. 2 points
    Definitely will keep working on diving before taking a rig along with me! I can imagine having a setup completely throws off your trim and buoyancy until you're comfortable with it.
  11. 2 points
    Yes I am using the AOI housing for the EPL10. I think it is a decent option because it supports the essential m43 lenses, namely the Oly 8mm f1.8, Oly 60mm f2.8 Macro, 14-42mm + WWL. It covers everything from wide to fish portraits to macro. The led trigger is a game changer for me. i am able to capture action with quick bursts from my strobes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. 2 points
    A very meta feedback but would it be possible to reduce the time between searches on this forum? When I search for something (using the text box), i need to wait several seconds every time I move between the results pages. This is not a big issue frankly, but I found this feature a little bit frustrating today! I guess it must be to prevent cyber attacks? Thank you Alex
  13. 2 points
    The arm seem a little bit short. See if with the house in the tray you do have space enough to use the clamps, if it does not reduce the access to any function of the housing. David refers 200mm/5” arms, but it was a mistake. 200mm is 8”. To secure the tripod base (the arms used as tripod base) you should use 2 screws in each, to avoid the arm to rotate.
  14. 2 points
    For Strait of messina just ask to Pietro. Lately Mimmo Roscigno & co. went there diving with Domy Tripodi, a resident uw photographer who has a diving center in Saline ioniche just south of the strait and the best dives are from the beach. Mostly macro. You can see his photos here. Mimmo Roscigno posted several photos shot there last month. https://www.facebook.com/ficarelladiving.salinejoniche Reggio Calabria is an intl. airport so it should be easy getting there directly. Scilla, Saline and other spots are within few minutes by car. Just as example, diving at "La Montagna" (The Mountain) from shore in front of the city in winter time That Cerianthus is 40 years old at least. This video cuts make me sick!!!
  15. 2 points
    I love Hyeres islands. I went there 5 times during the '90s even a liveboard. IIRC it's the oldest MPA in Europe. Speaking of short range destinations May I suggest a couple of other destinations in Italy worth to consider? Argentario in Tuscany. There's a national marine protected area much more as Portofino but cheaper and with better visibility. (www.argentariodivers.com is one of the biggest and most professional diving center in Italy). Give me a shout if you come! Strait of Messina. Scilla is a classic destination. During the '90s it was considered the best dive spot in the Mediterranean sea. I'm still convinced that it is. Maybe not the best but among the 3 best med dive areas. Why it's not so famous? because it's in Calabria, perhaps the most underdeveloped Italian region. But the dives there.... Strait of Messina deserves a special explanation. The particular morphological conditions of the Strait (in the narrowest point it is only 100 meters deep but in the southern part it quickly reaches over 2000 meters) make it possible to form a venturi effect with strong currents that bring nutrients from the depths. It is an extraordinary ecosystem, unique in the Mediterranean Sea for biocenosis and abundance of species. The intense and alternating currents determine a condition of "Atlantic" type. In fact, many purely Atlantic species, such as laminaria, although present in some other areas of the Mediterranean Sea, only in the Strait of Messina are able to form well-structured communities forming real underwater forests. Another peculiarity of the Strait of Messina is the presence of a numerous abyssal fauna which, transported to the surface by the current, can be easily captured or found beached along the shore. Their abundant presence attracted to Messina between the second half of the nineteenth century and the beginning of the twentieth century scientists from all over Europe who could find, in a relatively simple way, the most varied and abundant material for their studies. Krohn and Anton Dohrn, defined the Strait of Messina as the paradise of zoologists. Basically you only dive at times of tidal fatigue. The water is warm and visibility never drops below 20 meters. Even in the middle of winter I found minimum sea temperatures of 18 degrees Celsius. Just google "reggio calabria lungomare alberi" to understand the climate there. Many dives are done from the shore and you can meet very rare species for the Mediterranean. If you search for "trumpet fish in the Strait of Messina" you will understand what I mean. If you like wrecks you have no choice but to choose including some that can be reached from the beach. One of the many It's hard to find conditions where you can't dive there. You also have the Sicilian coasts at your disposal. The prices are outrageous and you have the airport of Reggio Calabria to 10 minutes. A famous diving is the Scilla Diving Center Check this out to see what kind of photos are taken in the Strait of Messina. https://www.facebook.com/francesco.turano1 P.S. Don't mess with currents here! Bye
  16. 2 points
    Honestly, I have one of the top end compacts (Sony RX100V... well it was when I bought it) and I've moved from a macro to a predominatly wide angle location (Great Barrier Reef!). It's 20mp, so not shabby, shoots in manual and the pictures blow up large. Look - it does the job, especially for holiday snaps where I've taken it on liveaboards in the Philippines etc, and instagram, however I'm finding that in large wide angle locations with fast pelagics, I'm limited by a couple of things. Reach, and then flash recycle time. Which has always been an issue, but much easier to wait 3.24 seconds with a nudibranch than a manta or tiger shark! However, I'm trying to get semi pro shots for tourism and brochures and the compact is hard work, most of the time I walk away with photos that I'm not happy with. I'm now moving to a full frame mirrorless, to be able to capture better quality pictures, faster, with more reach. However, gone for a smallish model so hopefully it is easy to transport around. I'll keep the Sony for shore diving at my new town as the entries are hazardous, so don't want a big/heavy rig for those. I also bought a TG6 but utterly hate it . I think it's because I've always shot in manual and the TG doesn't allow me to. Good luck!
  17. 2 points
    Not a direct answer to you but I have almost all of the sony wide angle combos possible (on A7III) 28-60 + WWL-1 15mm Sigma + dome (& extension) 16-35 + dome (& extension) 18mm (Batis) + dome (& extension) The 1. has the highest corner to corner sharpness / Image quality of all of the above and it is the most well balanced and compact rig. I am extremely happy with it. The 14mm would be nice if you shoot mostly inside of wrecks or if you want a very wide split shot but for any other aspects, I would go for 1. or 2. Maybe if I go in Maldives and want to take pictures of distant sharks then I will chose the 16-35 (or break the piggy bank for a WACP).
  18. 2 points
    I've been using a 90mm with my A6300 for a while now. A focus light isn't absolutely critical, but it helps, especially when doing supermacro with a close-up lens on top of the port. What is crucial is the ability to hold the camera absolutely still while the lens focuses - this can take a few seconds, longer on smaller subjects, and even tiny camera movements tend to reset the focusing process. Surge and currents are your enemy. I tried using it on a blackwater dive once and couldn't get it to work in autofocus mode, but another diver on the boat, also shooting an A6300 with the 90mm, did get some nice shots on the same dive using DMF pre-focused on a certain distance and moving the camera back and forth.
  19. 2 points
    I just had a UW videography student with a brand new GH5 ii setup in Nauticam housing, and I shoot on GH5 and got to do some comparison. First of all, and highly annoyingly, the menus are all redone. So me helping her set up her camera properly took way too long [emoji28] In terms of image quality, I find them similar. You can ofc do internal 4k 50/60 10bit which is nice. But as already mentioned, improved battery life is amazing. Will I upgrade? Nah. Not a huge upgrade. But if I was picking up a new camera I'd go with the mark ii over the original, worth the extra cash imo Sent from my Redmi Note 5 using Tapatalk
  20. 2 points
    I have been shooting MFT since 2015 so my memories of the Sony RX100 are not so fresh I had a very good set up and pulled decent shots with the RX100 however the current set up although more bulky is superior There were some benefit with the rx100 for example the leaf shutter went all the way to thousands for sunbursts however the images were not the same quality or sharpness overall I have also developed more my style and my knowledge so some of the improvements depend on that Since the sony had a 24-70mm lens it was no longer adequate for me and the new version with a port system is at the end worst than using my set up in terms of flexibility
  21. 2 points
    Instead of plexiglass or aluminium, you can use wood to put on both sides of the base (arms). It might be easier and cheaper to find on a remote location. The screws and bolts 4mm / 5mm diameter is more than enough. 12mm / 15 mm long should be ok also. The most important is to have them in stainless steel, 316 preferably
  22. 2 points
    Hi My Hugycheck pump failed. I've ordered a pump to fix it but need a reliable backup solution. I have found that there are very capable manual pumps available for less than £5. One of these from ebay only requires me to cycle the pump 7 times to get to vaccuum with an empty housing. Hose not required and pump fits the valve on the housing perfectly. 1Set Air Pump Suction Pump Manual Pumping For Vacuum Compression Bags NT | eBay Safe diving Grant
  23. 1 point
    I bought the kit beginning of 2020..I took it with me for one week trip and then the pandemic hit. It hasn't been used ever since and since I have no clue when I will be able to travel to the ocean again I'll try to sell al this gear to some one that can actually put it to use. This is what it is included: Nauticam NA Sony A7Riv and A9ll with M14 Vacuum Valve ll. NA N100 to N120 35.5 mm Port adaptor with zoom/focus nob NA Mounting ball set for tripod N100 Macro Port 110 for Sony FE 90 mm NAExtension ring 30 with lock NA N120 140 mm Optical Glass Fish Eye Dome port with removable shade for Canon 8-15 mm fisheye lens (the dome was bought used but in mint shape) Turtle Smart TTL trigger for Sony Noodilab Moby Back Magic Close-up Diopter All these retails in the store for around $6800 USD plus applicable taxes but I'm willing to let it all go for only $5100 USD plus shipping from Canada. This represents around $1700 savings for this in like brand new condition kit and for now I will prefer to sell it as a package. I do have the Camera body with around 4000 shutter count bought beginning of 2020, a Canon 8-15 mm in awesome condition, Metabones Mark 4 adapter from Sony to Canon, a Sony 90 mm F/2.8 macro lens that I can sell if interested . I will try to post some pics but sometimes it doesn't work very well for me and I can always send you more pics upon request.
  24. 1 point
    What maters is that it does the job. The tripod looking pretty is not your main goal. That said, the end result looks good. At first glace it looks PRO equipment. Now it is time to put it underwater. Do not forget that if you want to use a tripod, you do not want to have a neutral buoyancy rig. You need to have it heavy to grant that the tripod stays put. Otherwise, if you have waves motion or some current, you might have difficulties to have it steady.
  25. 1 point
    Flabellina Affinis, La Llosa-Benidorm, Spain Fujifilm X-T3 + Fujinon 80mm macro + Nauticam housing + 2x Backscatter MF1 @wetdreamsphoto
  26. 1 point
    Hi Davide, sorry I didn't receive a notification for some reason! Beam is circular, and I'd say roughly 2cm beam diameter at 12-15cm distance or so underwater. Haven't actually done measurements here, so rough numbers Sent from my Redmi Note 5 using Tapatalk
  27. 1 point
    I am in the DX format camp. I used micro four thirds for years and then moved to a D500. Due to the larger format, I have more flexibility in cropping, but the big differences for me were dynamic range and the focusing performance of the camera compared to EM1 MkII. Much faster and more accurate focusing, especially in lower light and much better tracking of fast moving creatures. Perhaps with better skills I could overcome this, and I have retained the Olympus gear, but the DX vs M43 size difference is modest and the DX is really just a lot more enjoyable for me. When making the switch from M43, I was thinking of going full frame and almost bought a D850, but was talked out of it by several people, and frankly, as someone who does this as a hobby, and who has to travel to dive, I am glad I went DX. I just cannot deal with the travel implications of a 230mm dome. This (and price) has also kept me from the Nauticam wet lens options. I tried and still have a WWL, but it is heavy and some of the other options dwarf the WWL. For me, APS-C and its amenability to 100mm, 140mm and 170-180mm domes and crop factor boost for macro lenses hits a sweet spot. Also, for wildlife photography, the crop factor gives me a some nice options in hand-holdable / comfortably-carried telephotos and zooms. Unless Nikon and Canon put more effort into DX format mirrorless, I am not sure I will go that route willingly.
  28. 1 point
    LX10 does not play nice with wide angle wet lenses. The port is too long. If you're set on the LX10, Issota sell a housing where you can swap in a shorter port.
  29. 1 point
    There are basically three options that I can think of: Change the strobe(s) to something that supports wired triggering (YS-110α, YS-D1, Z-220, Z-240) and use a sync cord. Get a UW-Technics TTL board for SeaFrogs housings - it comes with a replacement optical bulkhead. Caveat: it doesn't have a TTL profile for YS-01, so only manual operation will be supported. Get the UW-Technics bulkhead alone and use it with a simple manual-only trigger - less expensive than an entire UW-Technics kit, but has potential compatibility issues. My personal choice would be to go for better strobes - it just isn't worthwhile to invest hundreds of dollars into making a single old YS-01 fire.
  30. 1 point
    Hi, I went to dive Marsa Shagra in May this year. I felt like i was diving into a subaquatic poem. I use 1 DX Mark II with Nauticam Housing, (no additionnal lights, no filters)
  31. 1 point
    No. Water have an effect in skewing the expected balance of colour that a traditional bayer sensor is built to manage A typical RGGB schema expects double green than red and blue so you have issues of clipping the blue channel in water (in blue water in green water not so much as a paradox) Considering that most shots are using artificial lighting larger sensor means you need more strobe power to even things out so it generally impacts portability because is not just about a big camera but also about much bigger strobes Other things where a full frame camera can have an advantage are more latitude in your raw files and being more forgiving if you get your exposure wrong however this is exactly the same as when you shoot on land there is no significant difference I do a lot of land shooting post covid and do regular print club competitions (land or unrestricted) and format is not what wins the day It is however true that most professional and respected underwater photographers shoot full frame DSLR but this is just a habit in my opinion and many competitions are won with Nikon D500 and other cropped DSLR If there is one thing to be said about underwater photography is that the level of mirrorless adoption compared to land shooting is lower when you look at full frame or APSC and this is also because Nikon especially has been lagging but is catching up.
  32. 1 point
    Hey there, last one was on the Red Sea, the new one is on French Polynesia I had the chance to go there a couple of times between 2019 and 2020 (Fakarava, Rangiroa, Tikehau, Moorea & Tahiti) Probably the most incredible shark diving i have done. Same equipment as for the Red Sea : 1 DX Mark II with Nauticam Housing, (no additionnal lights, no filters) Hope you will like it ...
  33. 1 point
    Thanks - I hesitated between the 5" and 8" arms, but when with the shorter as I couldn't see reasons to go with longer arms - It's for a compact housing and I couldn't see functional issues when measuring things out - when looking into it I also saw that actual Nauticam tripod mounts are quite close to the housing (albeit at an angle). My housing's in for repairs should be back in a couple days, so i'll get to check if the arm length is problematic or not. I got the 4 legs today and it's looking quite good, but I'll definitely need a second screw to avoid rotation. The polycarbonate sheet should be arriving tomorrow, along with longer screws, so hopefully I'll be able to fix something. I'm pretty happy with the way it's going - the biggest expense / headache are the screws so far, which hard to come by and expensive in these parts.... We're leaving Japan to work in Maldives for winter, but if all goes well I might actually get to test the setup on a couple of dives before we set off.
  34. 1 point
    Hello, I've used both the larger plastic (for mirrorless) and the largest aluminum Gorilla Pod underwater. The plastic one worked great underwater, it did not rust, etc. but overtime (a little over a year) the leg joints started loosening and got cracking in the sockets. It was very useful lightweight and could easily pack it for travel. Load capacity wasn't an issue since your rig is much lighter underwater. This is my bet if you are decided on gorilla pod for underwater. After the plastic one broke, I upgraded to the aluminum one, with the hope it would be more durable. For the record aluminum does not rust like steel. When aluminum rusts (aka oxidizes), the rust forms a protective layer of aluminum oxide. But the Gorillapod is anodized aluminum so you don't have that oxidation issue to deal with. However, one major issue I have encountered is the rubber compound they use on the aluminum version. After sometime the rubber became swollen and started peeling off. Eventually, it was just the aluminum ball and sockets legs remaining. Not very pretty but it still worked. The plastic version does not seem to have that issue with the compound they used for the grip. Also for the aluminum version I only used the base with the legs, the ball head on the aluminum version had lots of small parts that rusted. I've switched instead to just using strobe arms as a tripod legs. Less maintenance and rinsing needed. Much lighter than the Gorillapod. There isn't much places for a gorillapod to cling to underwater. If you are looking for a Gorillapod like experience, try DIY and buy Loc-Line Pipes and you can fashion yourself a tripod! Load capacity isn't much of an issue underwater due to the buoyancy of your rig. On land, I recommend the aluminum version, much more stable than the plastic one. However is quite heavy for what it does.
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    Thank you Chris and Isaac - understood. Yes there is too big a gap to try the Tamron, I am not overly keen on that lens. Given the reduced field of view -- maybe I could switch out to the 130 degree objective lens? Saves buying another port and lens. If I can get away with using my existing port and 105mm that would be my preference. I note also on the port chart that for the 60mm on APSC they recommend a hoya +4 adapter. Thanks for your help Cheers John
  37. 1 point
    Each ISO has native ISO, that's correct, I have attached a chart that shows each one. For the HLG3 I believe its ISO 2000 for the higher setting, which is what I used throughout this video. Of course with SLOG3, you get clean files at ISO12,800, so it depends on how deep going, etc, for example as I am using the Sony 28mm F2 lens and WWL-1, if I want to take of the WWL-1 and shoot portraits at wide aperture (which I often do), the SLOG3 wouldn't work, as F2 there would just be far too much light coming in, so its always a choice based on what I want to film.
  38. 1 point
    I didn't use a red filter for any of this. I did start off with red filter when using the 16-35 lens a few months ago (other videos from Puerta Galera on my YouTube with that filter), but actually I realised that with the new white balance range on the A7S3 its not necessary (in my view), all of this is shot just making manual white balance underwater with a slate, and using lights with blue filters thereafter if needing light and it seems to grade fine, saves me losing 2 stops of light by adding a red filter.
  39. 1 point
    Hi smurillo, I've written up my notes on using that combo here: https://www.naturetripper.com/articles/underwater-macro-photography I think quite a few people here have experience with the 90 mm – pretty much the go-to for Sony users. Adding to my notes at the link: I haven't really tried it, but I think a lot of people use it with a focus light. Best, Simon.
  40. 1 point
    Beautiful shots Massimo - thank you for sharing! Great album, all the shots are amazing - I particularly love the anthias side portrait (beautiful lighting), the wide angle with the 2 cernie, the "hole in the wall with Anthias" and the blenny & octopus shots. I am mostly shooting in the French Mediterranean side when I can travel but I need to try the Italian reefs, Liguria and Amalfi then ! Grazie mille! Alex
  41. 1 point
    @lbaldwin99 Let us know how it goes...
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    There is a new ULCS tripod that is designed for this type of housing. Bill
  44. 1 point
    Two different types of Flexitray My old setup using Tor Inge's idea
  45. 1 point
    Thanks everyone! Really great ideas there. Looking into Tor Inge's plan posted by Davide ( https://www.ti-leidland.no/en/blog/46-scubadiving/136-diy-quatropod-for-underwater-housing ) , I found similar ball arms but pre-drilled with 1/4 threaded holes, which could be an option. Main issue is that I'm in a remote place with no hardware store so have to order everything online, but I think I know which way to go!
  46. 1 point
    encountered a Lion's mane jellyfish got stuck on an anchor line, after free it carefully I took some pictures before it swim away from me. dive was at flagpole, hood canal , shot on 1dx + retra strobs, WACP1 lionesmane jellyfish by Joe Hua, on Flickr lionesmane jellyfish by Joe Hua, on Flickr
  47. 1 point
    Hello. I have this camera and I am very happy. The positive: 6K, different resolutions, raw, very good definition and colorimetry. The negative: poor battery life. No stabilization. I use it in a Nauticam underwater housing with a Canon 16/35 2.8 lens and a nauticam 180 glass dome. also a canon 100 macro with saga front. The positive: It can hold a 500g Sansung ssd disc inside and thus save on expensive cards. It also has a compartment for lithium batteries that connects to the camera and thus have more than an uninterrupted hour of operation under water. The underwater housing is superbly designed and you can access all the necessary functions underwater. The only negative is that it is not a stabilizer camera and you have to have good diving and filming technique. For macro I use articulated arms as a tripod and they go very well! 6K in fulframe and with a 100 macro is very shallow depth of field, but the macros are incredible. It is an expensive equipment, but I guarantee that with 6k I will have equipment for a long time. Any questions I will be happy to help you, since I also had many uncertainties before deciding to buy a new equipment. All the best!
  48. 1 point
    I went to Cabo at the end of May for a dive trip to Socorro. Several people from our boat got hit by the tax, some up to $400 for high end Nauticam housings and Ports. I managed to get through with out getting caught. I tried to be a bit sneaky and it worked. I was carrying two rebreathers and my DSLR gear. I put the rebreathers in pelican cases, and packed my camera gear in a standard suitcase. I went through the customs gate first with the two pelican cases with just dive gear. Of course the agents zeroed in on the Pelicans and had my open them. Meanwhile my wife slipped through unbothered with the suitcases full of camera gear.
  49. 1 point
    I think you are better off having a "model" use some video lights to highlight the wreck and then take the picture from a distance. My friend Drew and I have been doing this on a relatively deep submarine (57m / 190') here in Southern California and, IMO, the results are great. You can view his pictures at : https://www.drewwilsonphotography.com/Wrecks-and-Artificial-Reefs/UB88/ Regards, - brett
  50. 1 point
    Hi Luke, The Novus product is made for flat sheets of acrylic or plexiglass... like that used in picture frames. So while it does an excellent job removing superficial scratches from these sheets it's not designed to remove the microfine scratches you're seeing on an optical port. First, make sure you're using a soft flannel cloth and nothing else for the final polishing step. Next, go to this website: http://micro-surface.com/index.php/products-by-type/micro-finish.htmland go to the left side of the page and click on: Products by Type. That will take you to: Micro Gloss #5. This will remove 9 micron scratches. Next use their Micro Gloss Liquid Abrasive, Type 1 Cleaner and Polish, again with a soft flannel cloth (also sold here under Products by Type/Flannel Cloth). This will clean 1 micron scratches. Finally, use their Micro Surface/Micro Finish Polish to complete the job. The 2 oz bottles plus the flannel cloths will run you under $26 plus postage and these will restore your dome to it's original finish. I tried the Novus products, which I've used for years to polish sheets of acrylic glazing for picture frames, and it left a haze with fine scratches that could be seen in a directional light. I also mistakenly used a micro fiber cloth, which I was later told to never use for applying the aforementioned polishing compounds by a Tech Rep at Micro-Surface Finishing Products. You can be penny wise and pound foolish by trying to do this on the cheap... but if you want the best results I'd suggest the products mentioned above. I made the usual mistakes before finding this company online and I'm stoked that I did. Lawrence



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