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  1. 3 points
    Red Irish Lord perfectly perched on a sponge. At God's Pocket Nikon D500, Nauticam Housing, Nikon 10.5mm Fisheye, 2x Retra Flashes, ISO 100, f11, 1/125
  2. 3 points
    Are your handles on backwards or is this your selfie rig? (Just kidding) -Tinman
  3. 3 points
    Sometimes I get the impression this virus has more impact on the brain than on the lungs. Getting bizarre. Here in Germany we had 25.000 peoples dying from the flue in 2018 alone. Zero so far on Corona. And people stack loopaper for the next 10 years... Lets have a Mexican beer, shall we?
  4. 2 points
    Paolo has been kindly sharing his experience on my blog. He has recently won or been placed in a number of competitions but more importantly he likes to experiment Plenty to learn https://interceptor121.com/2020/03/27/121-with-paolo-isgro/ Looking for others that want to share... please get in touch
  5. 2 points
    Dear friends, I must tell you that the test results for maximum framerate with Inon Z330, that I posted on March 20th, are wrong! I did not adjust the menue on my EM1II camera correctly, so the framerate was slower as it was supposed to be ... I apologize for the mistake, but today I repeated the test (and made sure that the framerate is correct). Better correct it now than let it stand wrong... #1.: Maximum rate possible with FLM3 miniflash at 1/64 manual power on EM1II: I made two (2 fps) and three (3 fps) series, 12 flashes in a sequence and measured how many flashes could be elicited (1: flash; 0: no flash): 2 fps: 1/1/1/1/1/1/1/1/1/1/1/1 (=100%); 1/1/1/1/1/1/1/1/1/1/1/1 (=100%) 3 fps: 1/0/1/0/1/0/1/0/1/0/1/0 (=50%); 1/0/1/0/1/0/1/0/1/0/1/0 (=50%); 1/0/1/0/1/0/1/0/1/0/1/0 (=50%); => The FLM3 becomes rate limiting at rates >2fps. When higher rates are desired, a flash trigger is required (I must say I have a Nauticam flash trigger here, but never used it so far)... #2.: I made a "refresh" cycle with four white and with four black Eneloops. The "capacities" were as follows: white Eneloops 2010 - 2040 mAh, black Eneloops 2470 - 2480 mAh. Seems o.k. to me... #3.: Results at 2 fps (when FLM3 always delivers a flash for trigger), different power settings of the Z330 flash ("-0.5"=75%; "-1"=50%; "-2"=25%): white Eneloops: "-0.5": 1/0/1/0/1/0/1/0/1/0/1/0 (=50%) "-1": 1/1/0/1/0/1/0/1/0/1/0/1 (=58%) "-2": 1/1/1/1/1/1/1/1/1/1/1/1 (=100%) black Eneloops: "-0.5": 1/0/1/0/0/1/0/0/1/0/0/0 (=33%) "-1": 1/1/0/1/0/1/0/1/0/1/0/1 (=58%) "-2": 1/1/1/1/1/0/1/0/1/1/0/0 (=67%) I conclude that the difference in charging time between black and white is not substantial with Z330 (at least when the batteries are freshly charged; later, when the voltage has dropped after a number of flashese, charging time may well be shorter with the batteries with higher "capacity", as they maintain higher voltage for longer). Performance of black ones was even worse in my case (probably older). In case higher flash power and rates are desired, than a different flash model model is required, Pro Eneloops do not help... 2 fps at 25% power ("-2") works perfect, already with the white Eneloops. Eventually higher rates are possible, when Z330 power is even more reduced, but will require a flash trigger faster than FLM3. The flash trigger, however, will not help to increase the frame rate above 2 fps at power settings >"-2"(then the Z330 becomes rate limiting)... Hope this is helpful, Wolfgang
  6. 2 points
    Excellent photos. I can only contribute with videos, because in the last few years I'm switched from photography. Sorry for the German text but it was a submission to a German underwater video competition. The footages were taken in German lakes close to Leipzig.
  7. 2 points
    Tiger beach, Bahamas aboard Aggressor Bahamas by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr Bahamas by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr Bahamas-2 by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr Lembeh, Indonesia with NAD Lembeh Rhinopia by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr Lembeh by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr paper nautilus/argonaut on jellyfish by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr Komoda, Indonesia aboard Indo Siren Nudibranch with emperor shirmp by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr Komodo by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr Striped catfish eating by Karyll Gonzalez, on Flickr
  8. 2 points
    A couple of random thoughts. I dive with a D850 in a Nauticam housing and a 230mm dome port. I used to take the Neoprene cover off underwater and simply stick my arm through a hole, up to my armpit. My strategy failed in Maui due to strong currents. The cover got swept off and away as I entered the water, so now I just take the cover off on the boat. On the socks - I've been using a pair of Apollo Bio Fins since 2006, and until they wore out I had a pair of hard-soled booties that were nice to walk in. But those booties were a little bit loose. I very often got lower leg cramps until one day I tried on a pair of (very thin) neoprene socks. The original reason (and they work fantastically well for it) was to make it easier to slide my feet into the wetsuit. What became clear though was that my lower leg cramps almost disappeared. Evidently you don't want dive booties fitting loose (like a cowboy boot). There has been a downside though. Ever since I started using dive socks and making my feet tighter in the boots I've had an issue with a grain of sand getting caught between two toes. By the end of a dive I'll have a small sore - or worse - worn into the sides of those toes. So now I premptively wrap a bandaid around my long toe before a week of diving. Problem solved. On barnacles - I wish I had gloves on for my first open water dive in St. Thomas. Went down an old line and sliced one of my fingers pretty well. Blood is green at 70 feet, by the way. On tethering: I'm a zealot here. I once participated in an unsuccessful search for a new rig that got away from a diver as he was getting back on board. First thing I do when I get in the water is attach my tether, before I descend. My tether isn't on a retractor and is about 3 feet, and stretches for more. I let go of my rig quite a lot actually, letting it hang down while I take care of business.
  9. 2 points
    Thanks DRT Malaysia 2020 for choosing both of my submission. Details of Pic above LIVE BENEATH A JETTY Location: Pulau Bidong, Terengganu Details of Pic above UNDER THE SARDINE SCHOOL Location : Moalboal, Philippines
  10. 2 points
    A camera without a lanyard is a lost camera eventually. I don't use two attachments, just one lanyard on my harness chest d-ring. I'm always holding the camera unless I shoot an SMB, or have an incident to deal with. That's why you need to the lanyard. Safety first, and drop the camera when there is an issue with your buddy our yourself.
  11. 2 points
    The typical timetable to get a medicine through a trial is well over 1 year assuming you have something that works Considering that the level of proximity in planes is not compliant with the requirements to prevent covid transmission I am concerned that if there is no alternative approach there won’t be any trips involving flights for some time. This may lead to disintegration of the diving industry and maybe other touristic enterprises On a positive note pollution is dropping and the air is cleaning at this pace this will be more effective of any government green emissions scheme Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. 2 points
    There is an oring you can place on the M67 mount to avoid water flushing You will need to stop the lens to f/11 to get sharp shot maybe f/8 not wider Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. 2 points
    Agreed the BMPCC4K isn’t good at AF. It isn’t good at lot of things I took for granted with my GH5. But what it does to well is wide dynamic range, raw recording, amazing highlight roll off and that nice colour BM has going on. - The screen on the BMPCC4K is fantastic thou for focus peaking with MF lenses mind. I would also say it’s got a very narrow use case underwater, great for static shots and scenic shots, but not the camera I would use for open water swimming or fast moving action. A Gates set would be a great choice from a ease of use perspective and travel point of view if starting from scratch. I do get frustrated with all the extra bits I’ve got attached to the GH5 and the whole handling perspective - it’s does everything and more, and is more camera than I need, but as bmffm attests to, it doesn’t do everything great. I did look at the ax100 / gates combo back when I had the GH4 and looking at ‘what next’ but I like my photography side of things too so in the end stayed with m43 - but see (with some envy) why bmffm went back to a gates. Less is more. The new canon mount Komodo Red looks super interesting, but I think we are in a whole world of wallet pain for that. The EZ cameras require monitors etc. So could end up expensive also. C200 another contender? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. 2 points
    I have hot played with most of those cams, but if AF is important to you, forget about the Blackmagic 4k/6k and the Z Cam. All I hear is their AF is bad overland, so it certainly wont get better underwater. The concept of the Z2 as a kind of „Mini-Red“ is certainly quite interesting nonetheless. Housings for Camcorders are scarse. For Z90 you get a housing from Gates. Depending on the cam, have a look at Seacam housings. They are superb. Whatever you take, get a decent set of UW lights. Keldan is the gold standard. I use the Keldan 4X. Compact and powerful. Particulary for macro, you cant do without.
  15. 2 points
    Just posting an update. I got the replacement cables today (It took a while because I live on an island, Nimar was very quick at sending them with DHL and they did not charge me anything for the replacements nor shipping). Visually I could not tell a difference to the other cables but as soon as I plugged them in, both strobes fired every single time I triggered. I pulled a bit, twisted the adapter and rotated to various orientations, no matter what I did, consistent firing of both strobes. Against what I feared, their design of trigger and single optical bulkhead with double optical adapter works. Pavel (here in the forum) was right about the quality of the cables and Nimar was also right about identifying the issue and sending me replacement ones. Can't wait to jump in the water with two firing strobes tomorrow.
  16. 2 points
    Having used a GH5, a GH5s, a Sony AX100 and a Sony Z90 (the "pro" equivalent of the AX700) underwater and being a video guy only, the setup that works best for me is a dedicated video cam, currently the Z90. I am saying "for me" because what you choose wil depend on a lot of different factors. As you say, if you want to do phots as well as Video, you'd have ot go the hybrid route. Yes, the AX700 can shoot photos, but nothing to take really serious. If you are a video guy and - like me - hate fiddling with lots of different lenses, ports, extension rings, focus and zoom gears (just to find out when you arrive at the other end of the world that you left important bits at home...), then go for a Gates/AX700 setup. I just grab my housing before the dive and put it back on the deck after the dive and relax while my hybrid buddies are still spending another 30min+ configuring their rig for the next dive. Can be fun as well - but its just not for me. One battery takes you easily thru 3 dives. Whatever you choose, with both setups (GH5 or AX700) you cant go completely wrong as both are great systems. Just to mention: Yep, the specs in the GH5 look much more impressive. But you cant beat the super precise auto-focus on the AX700/Z90. The autofocus on the GH5 even after a quazillion of firmware updates remains to be a bit of a joke. And also just to mention: If you a are "big sensor" freak: Forget both both GH5 and AX700 and go for a RED Monstro :-)) Joking aside, its a topic somewhat blown out of proportion IMHO. The 1'' Sensor in the Sony does a great job! Good luck!
  17. 1 point
    Juan and I have different views about this. Personally I do not advocate shooting HLG to convert to SDR. Firstly HLG already converts itself to SDR anyway as it is based on the same IRE system. Second HLG is hard to monitor without an HLG monitor and considering that metering is incorrect at best you are almost guaranteed to make the wrong decisions when you shoot on an SDR LCD Finally HLG requires 10 bits to work, compressing the gamma curve over 8 bits means the digital scale is really rough and with insufficient grey levels this will generate banding and soft image. Both seems to be there in this clip. I think 8 bits is for zero grade operations and the Sony camera is very ergonomic @Laval should use a rec709 profile with knee setting to protect the highlights perform white balance and aim at zero corrections in post. I would like to see an HLG version of this material unedited to see what it looks like. I work with 10 bit files at much higher precision with a larger sensor and I would not shoot HLG underwater myself for those type of dive in Raja Ampat that tend to be pretty dark most times.
  18. 1 point
    I cannot comment on the difference between Inon and Nauticam VF, but I see this has become a general tread about viewfinders. Here my personal opinion as a Nauticam 45 degree VF owner: The domain of an extra VFs are DSLRs, when photographers want to see the optical image of the OVF. Having a look through the OVF with the diving mask on, without an extra aid is very difficult, so the extra VF is a big advantage. Mirrorless photographers, like me (Oly EM1II), normally use the back screen in live view mode. I see no advantage of looking through the EVF compared to the back screen, to the contrary, the back screen is bigger and better visible. A 180 degree VF would be useless for me... The 45 degree VF is very good for taking Macros, as others have already stated. It is good for sparing the neck muscles and spinal cord, really very comfortable. If I would only go for Macro, I would definitely always have the 45 degree VF on my housing. For WA, however, I dislike the 45 degree VF, it is always in the way, when I want to have a look at the backscreen. Because of this, I seldom use the 45 degree VF, as I would have to mount and dismantle it almost every day on the housing, what I find not comfortable... Wolfgang
  19. 1 point
    Okay... First image: taken @Wakatobi (can't remember the site) from about 3 years ago. 2nd Image (this time of me & a friend): taken @Cenderawasih Bay 4 years ago.
  20. 1 point
    This depends on the specific Inon. Z-330 has been measured to fire for about 1/300s at full power.
  21. 1 point
    Some suggestions to "When to replace a Battery ?": a) Start the dive trip with new or fully charged batteries, as Pavel suggests. Use the best batteries available, they pay for themselves. b) Use a digital voltmeter to measure the battery's voltage: If it is significantly below the battery's nominal voltage, replace the battery. One learns quite fast when to replace. Digital VOM's are quite small, light weight, inexpensive and readily available on eBay. Carry one on trips away from home, they can be given as a nice gift at the end of the trip. c) It is a good idea to carry spare batteries for the lamps, strobes, camera, vacuum leak detector... Don't forget the chargers. If you do not need them, a fellow diver will - great way to make new friends!
  22. 1 point
    Some more shots: Anyone else seen an underwater magnifying glass? This one was from Holland .
  23. 1 point
    Thanks Adam! Here's another one that people seem to like. Barred-Fin Moray Eels (Gymnothorax zonipectis)Panglao Island, Bohol, PhilippinesDive Operator: Island Adventure Dive Center https://island-adventure.weebly.com/ Divesite: Arco Point Depth: Approximately 18 meters (60 feet) Date: 10 January 2020 Water Temperature: 26C (78.8F) Nikon D500/AF-S Micro Nikkor 60mm/Ikelite Housing/Ikelite DS125 & DS160 strobes. 1/250th @ f/10 ISO 200
  24. 1 point
    An update on my experience with the Canon 8-15mm & Metabones IV on the Sony a7r2 and a7r3: After a year or more of use, it started developing an occasional issue where the camera would lose communication with the lens. This is manifested by the display showing no aperture for the lens and shutter release disabled. It can be quickly corrected by twisting the lens & adaptor off the camera body and back on -- but this requires removing the camera from the housing. And of course, it's horrible when a really good subject passes in front of you and you can't take a picture with the camera that was working fine a few minutes ago. I've tried multiple methods of cleaning the little gold contacts, but the problem re-emerges. Now I always do a few twists (also twisting the lens off the Metabones & back on) before putting the camera in the housing & it usually works okay for the duration of the dive, but not always for the whole day. With my dedicated Sony lenses, I have never had this issue. btw I have both the Sony wide-angle and the fisheye converters for the Sony 28mm lens. The results with the wide-angle converter are superb, but I am not satisfied with the fisheye converter optics, so I continue using the Canon 8-15mm with MIV, and hope it won't freeze up on me. Meanwhile waiting for a dedicated Sony fisheye which should be less bulky, as well as averting camera-lens connection problems. btw - I normally shoot on shutter priority. I doubt any other exposure mode would change the dynamic, but I haven't experimented to be certain.
  25. 1 point
    Great idea A few screen grabs from my Instagram. Local sites in Southern Qld Australia. There won’t be much diving in the next while so it’s important to contribute and keep each other inspired!
  26. 1 point
    Let me know if you figure out how to print that flip lens holder!
  27. 1 point
    Yup, I am happy to report that on an OMG-ABCDAlphabetSoup 10 Mk3, you can use the back button AF approach (AEL/AFL button on mine as well) and set the FN2 button to turn on focus peaking. I have chosen to: - set the focus to Single Shot + MF - For Focus Assist, have turned on both subject zoom and focus peaking. This way, when i press FN2 activate the focus peaking, i can use that to determine focus accuracy (i dont get the subject zoom for MF assist in this case). OTOH, if i press FN2 again to deactivate focus peaking under the normal display, i get the benefit the subject zoom and focus peaking as well. That works great, as i dont always want to zoom in on the subject. This should work really well. The only thing remaining now is being able to see that blessed viewfinder well enough to utilize the focus peaking. It is very faint indeed! Thank you very much for your help, guys - but i am open to more tips and shortcuts, if anyone has suggestions. As we all like photos, here is one from Banda, from a few weeks ago.
  28. 1 point
    By the way, Nauticam housing NA-6600 has a little bit different mount place for TTL-Converter, than previous housings of this line NA-6000 ... 6500. UWTechnics specially developed new product (#11077-HSS) for NA-6600 housing. It also includes Retra TTL-profile and HSS.
  29. 1 point
    Ok this lens is a pita because it has a very long focus run You should switch to manual focus and peaking but activate push AF Once that is active you can move the camera back and forth Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  30. 1 point
    @Massimo: I do not perform a special management programm to overheat the strobes... Just 1-3 test strobes over the surface when assembling the rig (of course at minimum intensity). Under the water and mostly for WA, I use full power only few times and then shoot at reduced settings. I admit I do not proceed according to the manual: it recommends to wait for 10 minutes (the manual says something like this, I cannot remember now the exact time span) after firing once at full power before firing the strobe again at any power. But I do the same with Z330 and never had burm out so far. Next time, when you are under the water, fire your strobe at full power few times and then put your hand on the strobe: You will feel that the strobe gets very hot, even under the water... I really have a very bad gut feeling about Sea&Sea and the Netherlands representative, they have messed up with me. No more Sea&Sea flash and I do not recommend them to anyone... @Stuart: I did the test for you, with the Z330 immersed in the bathtube (also good to know for me for the future): Oly EM1II with FLM3 flash for trigger (1/64 power). 3 fps for 4 seconds (12 frames), the FLM3 flashed every time, so FLM3 is not rate limiting. Z330 at power "-2" (i.e. 1/4 power): flash every time - 100% sucess. Intensity always 100% as judged by eye... Z330 at power "-1" (i.e. 1/2 power): 5 failures out of 12 - 58% sucess . Intensity always 100% as judged by eye... Z330 at power "-0.5" (i.e. 1/1.5 power): 5 failures out of 12 - 58% sucess . Intensity always 100% as judged by eye... Conclusion: "-2" works perfect, but even "-0.5" can be used when one can live with 50% dropout. Now is the question how many Joules is Z330 at "-2", compared to Sea&Sea at "1/4" power. I guess Inon has more Joules, but maybe someone can answer this question precisely... Wolfgang
  31. 1 point
    As a new member I wanted to share some photos from my ocean adventures, Hope you like. always up for any critique or insight to any details that I may have missed! In this photo: A friend Chris pulling way back into the belly of this beautiful wave. Shot with Canon 70D + 10-22mm lens (at 10mm). within a SPL water housing near SF
  32. 1 point
    Posted this zoom gear a while back. Thanks to the magic of Sharpie, this part is black now.
  33. 1 point
    The Sony a7IIl has some of the best and fastest focus in Mirrorless cameras. "When looking for overall quality we feel the 28mm lens and Fisheye Conversion still performs better." Above pulled from a lengthy article. Their conclusion was when choosing the WWL-1. For overall quality, and a very slightly wider angle of view, the FE 28mm + Fisheye Conversion lens is the way to go. I've not known the a7III to have such focus issues.
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    I live in Milan, italy..… the situation is really difficult… only my region(lombardy) today had 146 people dead… the total deaths in lombardy only, is now 890... isn't a joke, i some place(bergamo province) they no longer know where to put the bodies of deceased people... morgues are full… :-( please don't underestimate the situation! ;-)
  36. 1 point
    The point of government action is not to eliminate new cases, but to flatten the curve. It’s all about the Rate of Rise of the transmission curve, so that we do not swamp the health care system. That is what is going to kill people. All humans on the planet have a responsibility to each other, and especially the elderly and compromised, to do their part as governments direct. There are lots more smart people running the show than Youtubers, Facebookers, Tweeters and the like. As a recently retired physician, my provincial medical licensing body has put me on notice I may be called back into service if the shit really hits the fan.... ian
  37. 1 point
    The random shots on the link below are all HLG shots straight out of the camera, no adjustments in luminance or colour or white balance. Exported using a HLG workflow in Resolve. They where shot in Egypt with a GH5/14-42 pz lens and WWL-1. Lights were some unbranded weak video lights that someone borrowed me since my checked luggage was misplaced by Egyptair. Dont know their lumen output or color temp. No filters used in camera or lights and no Luts.
  38. 1 point
    First thing please be very specific in answering questions, there are a lot of nuances to UW photography and knowing exactly which model lens you are talking about and which port and housing is important to give the right answer. Your 40mm will seem incredibly magnified compared to a 15mm fisheye shot(assuming it's your your current lens) . The dome port does not magnify when at the right position with respect to the lens, it will change somewhat if not setup in the dome correctly, but I don't think it will jump out at you. Judging distance and actual size of the subject underwater is an issue as well. I'm assuming your 40mm prime is the pancake lens - the AF on that lens may not be fantastic. 40mm on an APS-C is quite long for UW usage, if you put it in the same dome as your 15mm the positioning is sure to be out which will impact image quality on the edges. The min focus distance is 30cm which may struggle a little to focus on the virtual image formed by the dome - AND this depends specifically on which dome we are talking about - we are just guessing. The usual process for picking a lens is to refer to a port chart, if you have an Ikelite SL-2 housing this is the port chart: http://docs.ikelite.com/reference/port-chart-dlm-c-system.pdf Pick a lens from the list that seems suitable for your needs and perhaps ask specifically for experience with that lens on another post. Not every lens is suitable to use behind a dome even if it fits. The lens needs to focus quite close to focus on the virtual image which sits 3 dome radii away from the dome when focused on infinity, the lenses listed in the port chart are there because they are popular and work well underwater. Other lenses may work but we would need to know the specific model/version you are talking about and which specific dome you want to put it behind. They are mostly zooms because they are just way more convenient to use underwater.
  39. 1 point
    The Leeming LUT rebalances colors based on Xrite so this corrects the camera skew and once you white balance avoids you having to do it. So it is not so much how the HLG to SDR is done but the LUT itself correcting the camera before the change The link however is not working
  40. 1 point
    Beautiful work, this is a technique that I was not aware of. The results are very stunning.
  41. 1 point
    When you say you noticed a tiny leak, was this with a gauge? Is it possible the temperature changed. If it is colder the pressure inside will fall, if it is hotter it will rise. It has to change a reasonable amount to detect. A change 20 to 25°C would result in a pressure change of +0.02 bar or plus 0.3 psi On the o-rings if they seal initially, then lubricating should not make any difference. The lube does not provide the seal it just allows the o-ring to move in the seal channel so it can press against the surface in response to external pressure. The rear o-ring on ikelite housings does not need lubricant as it just presses against the back door, it does not need to move -there is no sliding between the o-ring and the part when you install it - unlike the port o-ring which needs lube. If you installed the ports initially without lube you may have twisted or damaged your o-ring there when pushing on the port. Inspect your o-rings for twists or nicks and be sure they they sit properly in their groove. Use magnification and good lighting to closely check the o-ring condition. Also when you installed the vacuum port and bulkhead did you check the seats and o-rings were clean and did you lightly lubricate the o-rings on each of those ports?
  42. 1 point
    The Spanish flu killed somewhere around 50 million people. Of course, today, with supportive treatments and antibiotics for immune suppressed secondary infections the death rate would be less in first world countries. But, the flu is a deadly virus and some varieties thereof are especially dangerous but yet none of my co-workers take their flu vaccines and most people I know do not and refuse to do so. All sorts of reasons they provide, most quite ridiculous. And yet this Corona virus outbreak is being hyped and weaponized in part for political service and harm to the economy and compared to Ebola. The only way we will not take our planned vacation trips is if the airlines ground themselves and I cannot drive. Yeah, be cautious, but I am not going to put my life on hold for the fake news media to hype doom and gloom. I think I too will break out a Corona Light tonight.
  43. 1 point
    It can shoot manual or TTL when you have a TTL-capable triggering flash, like a pop-up flash on many compacts and mid-size cameras. The Smart SL mode allows the strobe to 'learn' the TTL pre-flash sequence of the controlling camera; you don't use it to actually shoot. Engage Smart SL - the strobe indicator light will start flashing. Fire a shot, wait for 2 seconds, it should stop flashing - this indicates that the strobe is calibrated. Turn to manual mode and start shooting - it will ignore the TTL pre-flash pulses. This is for cameras where you can't turn off the pre-flash, like all Sony RX100 and A6xxx series cameras.
  44. 1 point
    I had the chance to travel to French Polynesia and dive the tiputa pass with the bottlenose dolphins of Rangiroa. Some of the best scuba diving in the world, topdive ! Bottlenose Dolphins of Rangiroa, French Polynesia
  45. 1 point
    I have my old housing for my em1 mk1 for sale. It includes the following: PT-EP11 - OMD EM1 MK Housing PPO-EP01 - Flat Port Inon Dome Port - Glass, 170mm diameter PAD-EP08 - Adapter for dome port PER-E02 - extension for dome port 3 zoom gears (PPZR-EP04, PPZR-EP02, third is generic for the 7-14 2.8 Olympus lens) i-Das tray and handle This setup was able to handle the following Olympus lens setups: 12-40mm f/2.8, 7-14mm f/2.8, 8mm F/1.8, 60mm f/2.8 macro, and 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6. Everything is in great working condition and I am the original owner. I inherited an mk2 nauticam system so this has been sitting in storage for about a year. Asking $400 plus shipping and any PayPal fees.
  46. 1 point
    As others have said, it depends, but it's generally not a good idea to start diving and underwater photography at the same time. Understanding the risk is simple - while you are concentrating on the camera, you are doing something wrong and not noticing it. Maybe you never notice that you just dropped into coral and kicked the crap out of it. Maybe you don't know that while you were floating around in an uncontrolled manner, you dropped onto of another diver and knocked their mask off, or their air out of their mouth. Maybe you did notice the fire coral you just sank into, but probably you did. Or maybe, like my late wife, as you were concentrating so hard on that shot that you drifted down and ripped an ear the first day into a week-long Fiji liveaboard. Buoyancy control IS key, and you need some of it before you start shooting. That said, holding a camera steady on a subject is also a good way to improve your buoyancy skills.
  47. 1 point
    Most of this video is shot with sony FE 90mm + SMC-2. First time I used it. SMC-2 is no easy...
  48. 1 point
    This is Tiger Beach where hundreds of sharks come to see the MOST dangerous being of this planet…
  49. 1 point
    Wouldn't it be amazing to dive in an another planet's ocean? Wow sets the imagination off for sure! Cheers, Simon
  50. 1 point
    Wanted to buy (from US...no sense paying international shipping for something so small): Photodetector or "slave sensor" cap for Inon z240, Type 3. This should be a threaded cap, base plug (cylinder of plastic), and a metal C or E-retaining clip. Usually one comes with every strobe so if you've got one you always use in 'slave' mode with the photodetector uncapped and are willing to get rid of it, please reply or PM me. I intend to drill it out to make a DIY inexpensive fiberoptic cable attachment for a z240 type 3 with my own fiber. rtrski

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