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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/19/21 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    I recently got the Nauticam A7SIII housing to shoot video and am very happy with it, shooting with the 28mm F2 and WWL-1 that I bought on this forum from @Phil Rudin I just tested the Sony A1 in the same housing today, thoroughly checked all buttons, dials, etc and wanted to just share to anyone who needs to know, the A1 works perfectly in A7SIII housing. I know for the Nauticam A1 housing they sell the adaptor tray for the A7S3, but this is not required if you have the A7S3 housing.
  2. 4 points
    As far as whale shark encounters go (and I've had a few) this one was close to perfect! Just a small group of mostly camera professionals and 2 hours with a highly curious individual. He just kept circling and coming back to us for the entire 2 dives we had with it. He also seemed genuinely interested in our cameras, and would come closer to view his own reflection in our dome ports or even curiously react when he heard shutters going off. Very fun!! Here's the video, enjoy it on your largest screen
  3. 3 points
    Freediving sock ;-) It's not nice. But it is 100% functional even in the mud.
  4. 3 points
    To readers, Phil Rudin has been around shooting underwater longer than 99% folks here. He and I met in Palm Beach "back in the day" 31 years ago for a photo workshop seminar with National Geographic's David Doubilet. Since then Phil has pushed the envelope in underwater imaging equipment testing writing extensively detailed reviews for the UWPhoto Journal and other publications. His pictures in this post showing the C-53 in Cozumel with different lenses, ports plus the relatively new low cost zoom lens / wet lens choice are guaranteed to help people make informed decisions. Having dived this wreck with many different combinations of gear I doubt few others have comparison photos to explain lens choices, etc. His detailed notes on what lens, port, etc. are extremely helpful too. Any post by Phil should be appreciated for the time and effort he's spent sharing with the underwater photographic community over 3 decades David Haas Stow OH
  5. 2 points
    Black Water Diving off the coast of West Palm Beach is one of my favorite things to do. Here area a few photos from a trip earlier this year. Nikon D850, 2 Kraken 3500 focus lights, 2 Inon Z240 strobes, settings are typically ISO 320, f25 - f29, 1/250s Cusk Eel Tripod Fish Seahorse Larval Harlequin Sea Bass Atlantidae Sea Elephant sea butterfly Carinariidae Sea Elephant Ctenophore digesting an amphipod Crab megalopa Squid
  6. 2 points
    I often use a plastic food container for my dome ports. They are available in many sizes and provide more rigid protection than a padded bag. And are a lot cheaper. Just add some microfiber towels that you might use to dry your camera on the trip as padding. Amazon.com: DecorRack Food Storage Container, 5 Quarts, Plastic, Food Grade Safe, Heavy Duty Dry Storage Containers, Round Large Food Container with Airtight Lid (1 Bowl): Home Improvement
  7. 2 points
    We had five fantastic dives over the weekend and are so grateful that we can get out and do that. We had calm seas, clear water, benign currents, and lots of excellent photographic targets. But sometimes, the last 3 minutes can surprise and delight when you're not expecting much. Yesterday was one of those times! Hanging at 5 meters idly scanning the reef when I spotted not one but two different whip coral shrimp within a meter of each other. I believe they are both variants of Pontonides ankeri but if anyone knows better please let me know. Then just as I am ready to ascend, my buddy waves me over to one of my favourite nudis, Nembrotha kubaryana: (These look a LOT better on my screen but the size limit here really kills the resolution - not that I'm complaining, many thanks to Adam and WP for allowing any hosting at all - and I'm too lazy to put on Flickr tonight)
  8. 2 points
    Hi, I wake up this topic because I've just used this product : https://www.amazon.fr/Glass-Polish-pare-brise-essuie-glace-accessoires/dp/B00ADMA8GQ/ref=asc_df_B00ADMA8GQ/ on my old WWL-1 which had a lot of water marks every-where (I did not dry it well after all dives), and the results were impressive. So I wanted to share it with you. I did it with my hands (no drilling machine) and the provided pads (white side), and with very small efforts I've already removed almost every thing (not more than 30-45 minutes of rubbing). I don't remember where I did read about this product, maybe here but not on this topic ? The "Mothers WaterSpot Remover" dit not work for me, but I hadn't used any pad - just micro fibers a little rugged. The only remaining marks are on the sides of the dome, near the lens hood. These parts are difficult to clean. There were also a very small scratch near the center and it seems to have disapeared (or at least less visible when eye checking through the lens). NOTE : I dit not yet tested it underwater, I will let you know but the water deposits marks were visible mostly when shooting in high contrast situations (sun in front, and big shadows/dark zones). But in air, there are no water deposits anymore in the center and around.
  9. 2 points
    Hi All, I thought I did all of this around 10 years ago when I first joined Wetpixel, but maybe not. I started underwater photography in the 1970s, while at Manchester University in the UK. Apart from my Ikelite camera housing for Minolta 101, everything else was constructed from perspex, through oven baking and glue. I was an instructor and guide in the Red Sea for a couple of years, and did a lot of underwater photography in that time, with slightly better gear. I the spent a year in London, launching trekking, wildlife and scuba safari trips on an unsuspecting public. I did a lot of magazine writing and gave a lot of slide shows to sports clubs and travel groups. I also entered every underwater photographic competition I could find, which was a bit unfair on the UK crowd, as I was using Red Sea photographs against Plymouth Pier. I enjoyed some success, and innovated some new categories in competitions - staged, humorous shots, which weren't a thing, back in the day. Now I'm getting into replacement body parts, instead of replacement camera systems, which came as a blow, and has stopped me diving for the past couple of years. I may be on the verge of switching to above water wildlife only. The message: do it while you can. Who knows what's around the corner? All the best Jon (Melbourne, Australia)
  10. 2 points
    Thanks to a lot of members here, I finally did my first dive with a proper Nauticam Sony A7C kit lens with 2 Inon Z330s, WWL and CMC1. The result is pretty sad haha. I did not know the right strobe distance and power to get a decent photo. The WA shots (no edit) are similar to my previous gopro shots. Nothing spectacular. Is it because my strobe power is too low or the distance is too far? I had my strobes at STTL, A position on EV dial. I could not focus at all in macro with CMC1. It was a reef dive with mild current. I could not see very clear what I was trying to focus. I can only get the yellow focus box to come on. It’s almost impossible for me to take slightly moving subject. My strobes over exposed the eel in the phoyo having them facing each other next to subject. How do you focus without really standing or holding on to something? The dive instructor would not let me touch any dead coral so I had to rely on natural buoyancy but focusing was so difficult with current keeps rocking my body. Having strobe on the lens level facing slightly away like in WA setup seems to be better How can I improve from here guys? Any advice on strobe positions, setting and way to focus to take better photos esp macro? Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. 2 points
    Yesterday I did a video call with the lumix experience managed here in UK The camera casing is the same the only difference is that as result of the new software platform based on the S series the button labels in some cases have changed for example f2 is now Q The LCD usable size is smaller but the display has more contrast As result all existing GH5 housings now fit GH5, GH5s and GH5M2 Good news for all housing owners and not so good news I guess for housing manufacturers I am getting my camera end of June and will provide some test data from a UK diving location or my bath tub!
  12. 2 points
    I totally agree that the GH5s produces beautiful image. Just add a red color filter and white balance on a gray card or glove in my case. It is that simple Here is a footage I shot without lights of wreck that lies at 24m depth with bad visibility:
  13. 2 points
    Edit : I have ordered a Metabones IV and will compare Sigma MC-11 vs Metavones IV on the Sigma 15mm EF mount. (i have an A7iii) Let's see..!
  14. 2 points
    Come on, you should be proud about your no-labels housing. After a few dives you will not need them at all.
  15. 2 points
    This camera will self-destruct in 3,2,1...
  16. 2 points
    I wonder if the GH6's 10-bit 5.7K 60p will be 4:2:2. 5.7k is a nice resolution for cropping to 4k for reframing/stabilization. (greater-than-4k 10-bit 4:2:2 60p is my minimum spec to tempt me to upgrade beyond my GH4, at least for macro purposes)
  17. 2 points
    dynamic range underwater is totally overrated. Look at the histogram of your shots and you will see many are lacking contrast and in some cases the blue channel has a gamut clip The issue is lack of light which means noise. Smaller sensor more noise. However smaller sensor requires 1/4 of the strobe power to get the same depth of field so at the end if you have good strobes and video light your MFT cameras goes further
  18. 2 points
    Be careful of which mount you have with the sigma! Apparently, Sigma 15mm with Canon EF mount do not work well on the MC-11 (EF-E). If you have the sigma 15mm with Sigma SA mount, then the MC-11 SA version should be fine.
  19. 2 points
    actually we just give it 2 to 3 more strokes to ensure that it is a full vacuum, bcos the trigger for the alarm is not at a max full vacuum.... bcos we cant really achieve that level of vacuum which is void of all air in our camera housing... thus it is considered safe to give it abit more strokes...
  20. 1 point
    Hi, Check Antony Grafa's websites, he lists a few UW photo destinations. By experience, dives in the Mediterranean are deep, in Greece even more. I was disappointed diving the Cyclades island and Crete too at Recreational depths. https://www.grafasdiving.gr/en/destinations/ Good luck and please let us know where you dive and how you find it! PS : this is based on my three experiences there, and others may have other point of views etc !
  21. 1 point
    Hi Pelagius, are you still after my 45 degree viewfinder? Unless I hear from you soon I'll pass it to Nicool - it needs a good home!
  22. 1 point
    Very cool. And thanks for the annotations
  23. 1 point
    EDIT : For the first time I succeed in putting my 8-18 in the housing with the nauticam zoom gear. I think I was not doing it right before. So you can forget about this problem, it is not one anymore, and a very good news for me
  24. 1 point
    Hi, If you go into caves, consider also the Oly fisheye f/1.8 for low lights with the 140mm glass dome from Nauticam (if you are). The 8-18 with Nauticam zoom gear does not fit the N85 port, you have to remove the dome, put the lens, put back the dome every time you want to get in or out the camera from the housing. I've heared that with some homemade zoom gear the problem can be resolved. The combo Pana 14-42mk2 with WWL-1 is very good, and you can remove the WWL-1 underwater to improve the zoom range, but the WWL-1 is quite big and heavy (it sinks even with the buyancy collar) so you have to be careful. You're lens choices seems good to me as I've made the same and without regrets. The 7" dome is also compatible with the Pana-Leica 12-60 f/2.8-4, without any zoom gear problem, and it is great for video. It is even compatible with the Oly 12-40 f/2.8 .. so lot of possible evolutions with this 7" acrylic dome that is inexpensive compared to the 180mm glass dome option. Never tried the Tokina, I stay on native lens for praticity.
  25. 1 point
    Love the Sea Elephant.. Could be a scene from a Japanese Ghost movie, right there. :-)
  26. 1 point
    Really tried talking myself into this lens because of the extended range over my PL8-18 and the fact that I generally like Olympus Pro rendering over Panasonic. Width wise, it would still fit in the 170mm dome I use on an Oly OMD housing, but with the extended length over the 8-18 and the 12-40 I'd have to add another extension ring. Right now, I can switch back and forth from the 12-40 and 8-18 without changing anything on the housing; really don't want to give that up. Still, I'm looking forward to seeing what Humu and other early adopters can do with what will surely be an excellent lens.
  27. 1 point
    The eyes of fish can be great photo subjects, as you show us. Maybe if one carries an Olympus TG4 , 5, or 6 in the dive boat, one can return on the next dive to photo the fish, just a thought..
  28. 1 point
    I just released this video where I cover 5 tips that I feel can greatly benefit underwater videographers, regardless if you're a beginner or have some experience. Hope you like it!
  29. 1 point
    I have never used a focus ring for wide angle and never felt the need to have one! I shoot with a Sony A7III
  30. 1 point
    Thank you for the complement Re. White balance, I tend to do WB when the light changes either due to depth changes or due to environment changes such shooting under a clef or in shadow part/inside of the wreck. I just WB on my gray glove which makes it quite simple (with a red filter on my lens)
  31. 1 point
    If you are at all nostalgic Sony has recently introduced the E-mount LA-EA5 lens adapter. This adapter allows the use of both Sony-A mount and Minolta lenses. That means it can be used with SSM and SAM lenses with full AF even the lenses that don't have a motor. This allows you to use among others the Sony 16mm F/2.8 Fisheye, the 200mm F/4 macro and many other lenses that can be found in the used market. The Sony 16 fisheye does not focus as close (21cm) as many more modern fisheyes like Canon 8-15mm at 15cm but the Sony can get the job done it you are not shooting very close CFWA. The lens also has three built in filters, A 12, O 56 and B 12. This is not a lens I would necessarily recommend it you don't intend to use the adapter with other A-mount lenses. I appears to work well in the Nauticam 140mm dome port. The LightRoom lens profiles look horrible but if unchecked the images look as shot. Lens and adapter photo.
  32. 1 point
    I've swapped mine out a couple of times underwater but it is always a pain. Generally, I would just put it down the front of my wetsuit. I had the bayonet mount holder for my ultralight arm but I generally only used that for my CMC-1. In theory, I loved the idea of having both and being able to switch during a dive, but in practicality, I generally would only use one or the other. If I had to remove the WWL-1 it would be to just shoot with the flat port.
  33. 1 point
    We just uploaded our second episode of our Okinawa Dive Vlog. Hope you guys enjoy!
  34. 1 point
    Well, cheap stuff is always a lottery. You can get something that is a perfect fit for your purpose, but you can get something that does not fill nice, strong, well done. The best thing those cheap accessories have is that if you do not like then, you do not loose too much. but I would say it is not the most important thing in your question. You are looking for a head support for the go pro. I think it is not the best support for nice and steady clips. Besides that, it seams to me that it can be easily lost during a dive.
  35. 1 point
    In addition to Proress raw, I wish Panasonic for GH5s can give us Blackmagic Braw ( I know it is not truly RAW format but it is so efficient and brings RAW capabilities in post production) like they have done with the higher models. I don’t wont to change to another editor and a different workflow other than Davinci Resolve.
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    Hahahaha. Indeed. Ok, Im getting the sand paper instead!!
  38. 1 point
    Will my GH5 stop working once the GH5 II and GH6 are released?
  39. 1 point
    Welcome back to the forum, my friend!
  40. 1 point
    If anyone is looking for some general information on the subject, I did a video on it a while back
  41. 1 point
    I used to use a 100mm Zen mini dome with the Canon 8-15 fisheye on my crop sensor DSLR and was very happy with the results. However, when I used the same combination on my full frame Sony A7RIV the resulting images were nowhere near as good. I got a Nauticam 140mm dome and am once again very happy with the results from the Canon 8-15.
  42. 1 point
    Here is a good read: Test with the WWL-1 and CMC-1 test by Reefphoto: https://reefphoto.com/blogs/photography/the-sony-a7c-underwater-shooting-full-frame-in-a-half-size-housing
  43. 1 point
    here is another Article / Test with the WWL-1 test by Reefphoto: https://reefphoto.com/blogs/photography/the-sony-a7c-underwater-shooting-full-frame-in-a-half-size-housing
  44. 1 point
    When using video lights that are sufficiently powerful you really only cover the foreground anyway so similar to photo you work in auto or set the color temperature
  45. 1 point
    GH5 MARK II has several interesting updates for me 1. Live composite photography 2. Electronic shutter now up to 60 seconds 3. New autofocus engine from S5 The above are most for photos 4. 4k60p 10 bits 420 like the S1H -> this is interesting for those who like slow motion 5. RTP streaming support Those up good for video Now in terms of being disappointed other than better low light performance what are people expecting? I do not need more pixels I need better pixels functionally the camera is still great and with the additions 1-3 except preburst that is useful it has all I need for my photos and video. The dimensions are the same and will fit in the body excellent!
  46. 1 point
    Here are some quick examples to demonstrate the potential range of this lens for eels. One thing to note is that good vis is essential when the subject is further away, as the 60mm lens can lock onto particulates and hunt for focus if you're not careful. It is a great lens for portraits but it won't capture the full length of a big eel out hunting, but I've never been quick enough for that anyway!
  47. 1 point
    I capture morays on almost every dive. With the 60 mm lens great portraits are possible from 0.5 to 1.0 m.
  48. 1 point
    Thanks @ChrisRoss Found this topic on the Panasonic flash, looks like it works perfectly.
  49. 1 point
    I got my a7s3 and Nauticam gear just before a big dive trip in the Caribbean in late November. Shot three Sony Profiles settings, sLog3/SGamut3.Cine, HGL3 and No profile. File format:XAVC S 4K at 60fps10 bit 4:2:2 for all profiles. Customize the C4 function for white balance (So I could execute WB in right hand UW and hold Grey slate and later chip chart with left hand). I used official Sony LUTs and Leeming LUTs in post for evaluation of clips. Will edit in FCP and finish color in Resolve. It was a well balanced neutrally buoyant rig with Keldan 4x Lights, red and blue filters were consistently used. I was hoping because of the lowlight capability of this sensor to shoot with no lights so as to not scare off fish. In field evaluation I sensed that just a bit of light made a huge difference in color accuracy and saturation. So after a 3 dive and no lights I shot the remaining 20+ dive with light. My takeaways: 1- Love the setup, would choose sLog3 if time in post permits CC, If not post time then I would go with no profile. You lose 1 maybe 1.5 stops of latitude but generally clips were nicely saturated and accurate. I understand some people think the sony color science is to be avoided but I saw no issues. In also I preferred Sonys LUTs over Leeming LUTs for 90% of the shots. Whats my experience in Video color science? 40Plus years surface shooting and a successful life doing so. UW shooting is just my hobby, 2- I used SDHD cards for the XAVC s 4K file format and they bogged down a Late 2013 Mac Pro with 32GB Ram and top end graphics cards. Had to use proxy's to not go crazy in post. I did buy and have tested the new Sony CFExpress Tough card and "I think" it performs well enough to be able to avoid proxies in post. This is because the CPU has to do less calculations than with a codec that has more compression. I did a surface shoot yesterday (Birds in Flight) using sLog3 S&Q settings for 120fps with XAVC S I 4K and I filled a 160GB card in well, not very long. Luckily I had a laptop to download to continue shooting. Take Away 2.1 if you want 120FPS you better mean it! Or have lotsa expensive cards. Moving them into post and seeing performance will take place in a couple days (I hope). Apologies on long post, but a couple further observations. Cost, yea I'd say camera "May" be a1/3 of the get in the water costs. so, lights and floats, buy the best you can. Housings often are sacrificed if you go for a new camera, but odd note here, I have an a7R4 and it goes in the a7s3 housing. Most of the buttons on the top work but the only button on the back at seemed to work was the Disp button. I am exceptionally happy with this my 3rd rig. Should be able to last the rest of my life. Knock on wood!
  50. 1 point
    As I pointed out in the post the top image is 12mm fisheye and the bottom is Sony 28mm F/2 with the WWL-1 as recommended by Nauticam. Perhaps this will help. The attached photo is of the same wreck but from a bit further back with a 114 degree rectilinear lens the Olympus 7-14mm behind a 200mm dome port. If you compare to the two images posted above the rectilinear shot comes much closer to the WWL-1 than it does to the Fisheye shot. I missed where someone said they have the same image quality, I did suggest that lower res cameras don't show flaws in lenses as much a high res, cameras and that as a result the gap between WWACP and WWL-1 would not be as pronounced.



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