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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/15/21 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    The dial has a button in front you have to push in order to move it. Same as the A1 and the Nauticam housing works just fine. There is a small lever that you have to engage with that button before you close the housing.
  2. 1 point
    Power, for wide angle you need lots of photons. Think about GN. The published specs for both this strobe and the Inon S2000 is 20 (above water). This means that for UW use a real GN is around 10 (less in murky water). SO with a GN of 10 you can use the GN formula (guide number = distance * F-stop) to see that with a GN of 10 and an f-stop of 5.6) you can light something 1.8 meters away. Not very far or very wide. That is why wide angle guys use much bigger strobes. Bill
  3. 1 point
    I think the issue should be less about camera bodies and more about lenses. If there was a FF equivalent of the Tokina 10-17 for Z cameras, then switching would be a no-brainer. The 8-15 circular fisheye is hardly more useful than the Sigma 15mm on full frame but much more expensive. On a crop sensor Z50 it has a useful field of view akin to the Tokina 10-17 but has to be used with an FTZ adapter. I think we are more likely to get an adapter for screw focus lenses like the Tokina than a full-frame 10-17 equivalent, sadly. The brief lag between looking through the viewfinder and it turning on is my biggest irritation with mirrorless.
  4. 1 point
    I bought the kit beginning of 2020..I took it with me for one week trip and then the pandemic hit. It hasn't been used ever since and since I have no clue when I will be able to travel to the ocean again I'll try to sell al this gear to some one that can actually put it to use. This is what it is included: Nauticam NA Sony A7Riv and A9ll with M14 Vacuum Valve ll. NA N100 to N120 35.5 mm Port adaptor with zoom/focus nob NA Mounting ball set for tripod N100 Macro Port 110 for Sony FE 90 mm NAExtension ring 30 with lock NA N120 140 mm Optical Glass Fish Eye Dome port with removable shade for Canon 8-15 mm fisheye lens (the dome was bought used but in mint shape) Turtle Smart TTL trigger for Sony Noodilab Moby Back Magic Close-up Diopter All these retails in the store for around $6800 USD plus applicable taxes but I'm willing to let it all go for only $5100 USD plus shipping from Canada. This represents around $1700 savings for this in like brand new condition kit and for now I will prefer to sell it as a package. I do have the Camera body with around 4000 shutter count bought beginning of 2020, a Canon 8-15 mm in awesome condition, Metabones Mark 4 adapter from Sony to Canon, a Sony 90 mm F/2.8 macro lens that I can sell if interested . I will try to post some pics but sometimes it doesn't work very well for me and I can always send you more pics upon request.
  5. 1 point
    I can see why they did it - it requires the least possible space inside the housing, and doesn't use any electronic components that need power and control. This is actually the reverse of what you'd want. This device connects to a Wi-Fi network and downlinks it to its Ethernet port. It's what you'd use if your camera did not have WiFi connectivity but rather only an RJ45 port, and you wanted to link it to a WiFi network. If you want to bridge your camera's WiFi to an Ethernet link to the surface, you need a WiFi access point that is small enough to fit into the housing and is powered by PoE (Power over Ethernet). I'm not sure such a device exists, access points tend to be pretty large. If I were you, I'd look into getting the camera's Ethernet link working properly.
  6. 1 point
    http://www.anglerfishlighting.ca/remote-trigger-v30.html
  7. 1 point
    Off-camera strobes are very common in UW shooting, especially in cave and wreck photography. Some strobes have built in slave sensors, while others require an add-on sensor. This is preferred as the slave strobe doesn't need to be "looking" at the camera. Many folks are using video lights over strobes for these kinds of shots since it's simpler to preview the shot. As for gear recommendations, I am most familiar with the Ikelite offerings and they have a remote sensor for slave activation. If you're looking to trigger land strobes remotely, you can use a Pocket Wizard to do that. Aquatica makes a housing for it as well. https://aquatica.ca/technical-lighting-control/water-wizard/ Good luck!
  8. 1 point
    NA N100 to N120 35.5 mm Port adaptor with zoom/focus nob sold!
  9. 1 point
    I also have the E-PL10 in the Backscatter AOI housing. I'm using the Oly 60mm for macro and the Pana 8mm for Wide-angle. I was able to buy the Pana 8mm and dome port for less than the Oly 8mm. Honestly I've only dove with the 60mm once, I'm not too sure if I had different expectations of the lens but I didn't like it. I've dove with the 8mm maybe 8-10 times, I much prefer it. The main thing to remember is the AOI housing is a PEN style camera (EPL10) and the port opening is much smaller diameter than the OMD style cameras(Em10, em5, em1) so you can use a lot of the Oly Pro lenses on the EPL10. This has tripped me up a few times when buying new lenses. Now I have the EM1-3 for photography above water and the EPL10 for photography below water.
  10. 1 point
    Awesome video. I really enjoyed the music.
  11. 1 point
    @elmelodico I loved the Sola Pro 15K so much I ended up pulling the trigger and getting a second one. The ergonomics of the on/off switch and brightness lever, paired with the oled screen make it super easy to know how bright each light is and how much runtime I have left. I usually don’t run them both at full 15K brightness and run them between 7500-10K each so that I can get a full two dives in, with some spare time. I don’t think there’s a better bang for buck when you compare dollar - lumen vs other lights like Keldan. One note, I have scratched up the plastic cover on the fronts, but those are removable so I would imagine I could purchase replacements from L&M, but it honestly doesn’t affect the light output so I haven’t felt the need.
  12. 1 point
    Yup, the USS Hogan is a great wreck. Here are some more pictures and some historical information: https://wreckedinmyrevo.com/2020/08/06/uss-hogan-dd-178/ - brett
  13. 1 point
    Hi, I went to dive Marsa Shagra in May this year. I felt like i was diving into a subaquatic poem. I use 1 DX Mark II with Nauticam Housing, (no additionnal lights, no filters)
  14. 1 point
    Hello Everyone Last color of the "Magic" series The video was shot in Feb / March of this year (2021), same equipment as for the 2 others : 1 DX Mark II with Nauticam Housing, (no additionnal lights, no filters) I take this opportunity to thank each of you for your support, the "Magic" series has been officially selected for the 25th edition of the Belgrade International Underwater Film Festival and that is in large part thanks to you. Again a big thank to all of you
  15. 1 point
    I have a Canon R5, which I'm currently using with the 16-35 F4 EF lens via control ring adapter, and anxiously awaiting availability of the new Canon 14-35 RF F4 lens. It's small, light, and looks to perform rather well... and would give you a great zoom between 14 and 35... Which seems to really cover the bases for what you need. Also, if you're looking to save money, you could go the route I'm going and get the Ikelite 200DL housing for the R5... It'll end up costing you about $2500 for the housing, extension, 8" dome port, and zoom gear... That's a HECK of a lot less expensive than other manufacturers, and IMO, every bit as serviceable. I'm a huge fan of the R5... the autofocus and eye tracking smokes anything else out there, the 4K 120fps and 8K video recording are incredible, and the dynamic range and internal stabilization give you a huge level of "forgiveness" for low light situations. Just my 2 cents!
  16. 1 point
    In this review of the Keldan Spectrum SF-2 filter I am giving you my reasons as to why you need an underwater red filter for your underwater camera system!
  17. 1 point
    Cratena Pregrina, Ifach Rock, Spain @wetdreamsphoto Fujifilm X-T3 + Fujinon 80mm macro into Nauticamhousing + 2x Backscatter MF1
  18. 1 point
    I'll be posting the pictures I get with my actual system, Fujifilm X-T3 into Nauticam housing. Please, feel free to criticize the pics. Flabellina Affinis, Ifach Rock, Spain. Fujifilm X-T3 + Fujinon 80mm macro + Nauticam housing + 2x Backscatter MF1 @wetdreamsphoto
  19. 1 point
    Flabellina Affinis, La Llosa-Benidorm, Spain Fujifilm X-T3 + Fujinon 80mm macro + Nauticam housing + 2x Backscatter MF1 @wetdreamsphoto
  20. 1 point
    The Tooke cables are fine but at $30 with shipping a bit more expensive than making your own. Of course making your own has a fun quotient that should not be discounted. Bill
  21. 1 point
    The Asahi multi-core are the most bend resistant especially compared to single core fibers. Elias and I will argue politely about this until we are both dead. A lot depends on your use. For using with a camera's built in flash and for manual mode (non-TTL) then any old fiber will mostly do especially for Inon strobes that are simple to trigger. For LED triggers then multi-core fibers do indeed work more reliably as many people have demonstrated here on Wetpixel by buying a new fiber when the old ones didn't work. For LED with TTL then multi-core gets even a bit better and if you are trying to run TTL on a S&S strobe you need all the oomph you can get. The length of the fiber connector that I use (like in the photo) is just under 24 mm (23.8 or so) if that helps. In my hands at least I see no difference between the hand made 1 mm 613 fibers and the commercial 1.5 mm coils in terms of triggering S&S YS D1,2,3, or Inon S2000, Z200, Z240 and Z330, Backscatter mini) from the Nauticam LED trigger for the OLY Em1-II. Bill
  22. 1 point
    Well gents, I've enjoyed the responses in this thread. End result is, I would love to go the water contact route, but I'm going to go with my current setup along with a recitillenear 10-24mm add on to my current setup, and I've agreed to spend the extra money on a trip to tiger beach. If my friends who see the results criticise the results due to a lack of definition then so be it - I'll get to be up close and personal with some very impressive sharks! Thanks for all the input - if I win the lottery in the meantime, I'll be going there with the WACP! Mike
  23. 1 point
    The Alex Mustard approach and the Keldan ambient light filters are two different styles/techniques/aesthetic choices about white balance: (a) Create a scene with both foreground and background illuminated by light of the same color temperature for a 'natural' look. This is the approach typified by the Keldan ambient light filters. Technique: set white balance based on ambient light, use strobes or video lights with blue filters to match the ambient light temperature to fill in the shadows on foreground subjects (b) Create a scene where white balance differences between the foreground and background illumination create stronger color contrast and more subject 'pop'. This is the approach most people take for wide angle stills and the school of thought Alex is expanding on. Technique: set white balance based on the color of your strobes/video lights; get nicely warm-colored foreground subjects set against a rich blue water column for maximum color contrast between subject and background. Optionally, you can use warming filters on your strobes or video lights to create even more color contrast between foreground and background and achieve richer blues in the background by setting you white balance cooler (e.g. around 4000-4500k). There's nothing that says you must use technique A for video and technique B for stills, though some people think of it that way. You can use either technique for video or stills depending on the artistic vision you have.

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