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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/20/20 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    @adamhanlon@Phil Rudin@ChrisRoss@ajay@heynsheyns@davehicks@Akoni@hyp@oneyellowtang@Interceptor121@PeteAtkinson Thank you all for the broad, honest and facts-based discussion, opinions, etc! I finally took the plunge into the SONY A7RIV. I already went on a one-week-trip and am totally happy with it. I even had the opportunity to try out the brand-new NAUTICAM EMWL with the whole range of accessory lenses! :-) Of course, it's still a battle to accustom myself to the new functionalities etc to get the best out of it, but I quite got the hang of it.
  2. 1 point
    pic of 105 behind DP-122, there is maybe 1" clearance when on a old N90 Nikon (35mm setup) Pics of DP-122
  3. 1 point
    Greetings from the Mayan Underworld Some nice Light reflections while diving in each Cenote Jardin del Eden Cenote, Mexico Taj Ma Ha Cenote, Mexico Last edited: A moment ago Find Xterrapixel Xterrapixel on Flickr Xterrapixel on Twitter Xterrapixel on YouTube
  4. 1 point
    "I don't know why my housing flooded, I clean and grease all the O rings before every dive"
  5. 1 point
    Since photography/videography is the art of capturing light. Deciding the correct exposure is the most critical element in helping us produce beautiful sequence of images. This topic is about exposure and should apply to most cameras. Nevertheless, we can still reference our cameras. We would like to share our experiences to learn from each other. The three elements that affect exposure: 1) Aperture, decides the amount of light (affects depth of field & the sharpness of the image across the frame) The widest the aperture the shorter the depth of filed and the less the sharpness at the edges of the frame), 2) ISO (Sensitivity to light), each camera has a native ISO value where it performers the best. when shooting Log file most cameras have preset values. 3) Shutter speed (the duration the light takes for a given aperture for each frame/shot) For videography usually it is set at 180 degree or double the frame rate. It is important to mention, that some cameras prefer overexposure than under - especially when shooting RAW - to maximize the dynamic range. Exposing to the right (ETTR) is the technique of adjusting the exposure of an image as high as possible at base ISO (without causing unwanted saturation) to collect the maximum amount of light and thus get the optimum performance out of the digital image sensor (google definition) My experience: a) when shooting with artificial light: I used to shoot with a Sony camera in total manual mode. And since I shoot using Slog the ISO preset at 2000 native value which I could not change. I used to set aperture at the best value to maximize exposure but avoid clipping highlights and I relied on the camera waveform. This way I can easily recover for lost details in the shadows. b) when shooting with ambient light: Currently I use the GH5s using stander profile (I tried vlog but could not get best colors) and I set the camera in Aperture priority mode so I can control which aperture to use. And mostly I use the largest/widest iris to maximize light cause I am shooting in ambient light. I set the ISO to Auto with max at 6400. Cause I am always shooting at widest aperture, the camera will always choose the minimum possible ISO. ( I give vlog another try, with max iso technique) next time we dive after the Corona curfew is lifted. I find ISO 6400 is quite usable with the GH5s. In general and whenever I change camera or technique, I use a color chart as a reference to make sure I get the right colors and exposure. How about you guys? What technique do you use? Stay safe, stay home and I pray to God that the Coronavirus disappears from planet earth for ever in the very near future Here is an article about metering: https://digital-photography-school.com/metering-modes-and-how-your-camera-meter-works/
  6. 1 point
    Hello Mr.Joss, Thanks for sharing your experience. My setup is Nauticam housing for A7RIII + Canon fisheye 8-15 + extension + 140mm fisheye dome port = 800 g YS-D3 x2 = -50 g Weefine 2300 focus light = 250 g Total = 1000g + ~500g for 7 clamps and 2 arms I think I will stick with only fisheye setup, I'm not a professional photographer and I'm not used to shoot macro shots. I wish I will buy Nauticam diameter 70 x 250 mm carbon fiber floats x2 (buoyancy = 520 g each ) and weigh it underwater. After that I will fine tune the buoyancy with high density foam or maybe buy small floats.
  7. 1 point
    For many years now I have been diving in the Mar Piccolo - Taranto (Italy) at all times of the year. I discovered this place 25 years ago thanks to the collaboration with a local scientific foundation and since then I have never missed an opportunity to return. In recent years, however, the summer temperature of the water reaches almost 30 degrees, creating great problems for the local fauna and flora. Many species move towards deeper waters and others, unable to move, end their cycle with a slow agony. I returned in these days and this little Mediterranean paradise is starting to revive.
  8. 1 point
    I use exiftool there are some strings in there you can parse
  9. 1 point
    Update after many many emails I got paid.
  10. 1 point
    Honestly, it isn't that complicated... Looking through my A6300 menus, I have, among those that are relevant: Quality: RAW - there is no real reason to shoot JPEG underwater Drive mode: single - can't really shoot bursts with strobes and pop-up flash, maybe with a LED trigger and low power Flash mode: rear curtain sync Focus mode: DMF for macro, AF-C for wide-angle Focus area: Center AF illuminator: Off AF drive speed: Fast AF track sens: High ISO: 100 for macro, auto 100-800 for wide-angle Metering mode: Center White balance: Auto SteadyShot: On Zebra: Off - it's useful for video, kind of useless for stills with strobes Grid line: Rule of 3rds Auto review: 2sec - wish there was a 1sec option Peaking level: low for macro, off for wide-angle Peaking color: yellow Live view display: Setting Effect OFF - this is important, as if you turn it on, camera will focus with aperture at your set setting rather than wide open. With it off, it will let it maximum light for focusing, and close the aperture as you take the shot. Priority set in AF-S: AF Priority set in AF-C: Balanced emphasis AF w/shutter: On, but I use a trigger extension. If you want to use back-button focus, this goes to off. Exp.comp.set: Ambient & Flash Monitor brightness: Sunny weather Power save start time: 1 min As far as shooting goes, I keep it in manual mode, f/8-f/13 for wide-angle with 10-18mm or 16-50mm, f/11-f/16 for macro with 90mm, f/22 for supermacro with 90mm and +13 close-up lens, 1/160 shutter most of the time, a bit slower if I want a brighter blue background. Sometimes I play with flash compensation a bit if I feel that TTL isn't doing the best job. Display mode is almost always the electronic level; it makes a very handy reference. I shoot with both hands on tray handles, triggering via an extension on the right side. Don't really push buttons much while diving; right hand only really leaves the tray handle to adjust aperture via top knob or shutter speed via rear knob.

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