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  1. 3 points
    Very happy to see the return of this topic! My fave reflects my long-term salmon project that was influenced more by the weather that was excessively wet in 2020 and poor salmon runs than by covid. I took this shot during one of the few and short sunny spells in early July before any salmon had returned to this stream. I used a lens that I had used for this same purpose (juvenile salmon) but with film back in the 90s, the Nikonos RS 28mm. This was one of the lenses that Harald H brought with him to DEMA in '19 following the SEACAM mdification. I have used several other lenses for a similar purpose but was challenged by the nature of underwater optics. This lens has a much flatter field as well as being a sharper water-contact lens. Its small size also helped as the lens was not completely submerged due to the shallow water depth. Rocks on the bottom (get in the way) did not help either.
  2. 3 points
    Monterey, California. September 2020.
  3. 3 points
    Hi Chris, I will post the results here. I will receive YS-D3 after a week or so.
  4. 3 points
    Hello, here you are some pics of my last trip to El Hierro, in the Canary Islands, Spain. SVF11012021047 SVF05012021092 SVF05012021016
  5. 3 points
    I am really happy with the Backscatter Mini + Snoot. It's the best addition to my camera gear in years. Previous snoot setups I tried were frustrating and difficult to aim and this is a relative breeze. Highly recommended. Here is an example shot of a Pacific Spiny Lumpsucker. Maybe 2-3cm long, shot with D850 & 105mm, Backscater Mini Snoot, SubSea +5 closeup lens. I don't love the "spotlight" effect of a bright circle on black so I add a little fill from an Inon 330 at about 1/8 power off to left the side. [ f/18, 1/250th, ISO 100]
  6. 2 points
    I was lucky enough to be on a trip to Bali and Lembeh right before everything got locked down. We actually were on the last plane going from Singapore back to Germany... My first shot was taken in Bali. Second one was shot in Lembeh. PS: Is there anything that can be done about the upload size on Wetpixel. It really makes sharing images a bad experience and it's such a shame considering the effort we all put in to maximise image quality.
  7. 2 points
    No, it is not manual. UWTechnics TTL-Converters have electric TTL for sync cord, the same as optical TTL for fiber cable. Both connections work TTL. Of course for sync cord usage, user has to install an electric bulkhead on the housing. This is popular option.
  8. 2 points
    I post more photos from El Hierro, in the Canary Islands, Spain. I really beatiful island to go such in the water as in land. SVF04012021050 SVF05012021053 SVF10012021089
  9. 2 points
    San Jose Del Cabo . I just landed at SJD (Cabo San Lucas, Mexico) I thought it would be beneficial to the group to share my experiences. First off I am very a very experienced traveler and have cleared Mexican Customs at least 30 times. This time was just a bit different and not just because of Covid-19. At my check-in in the US I was directed to fill out an online questionnaire about my Covid-19 possible exposure. It also asked for what seat you were in and contact info (email and phone). I assume that this was for Contact tracing. I filled it out and took a screen cap of the QR code generated at the end of the questionnaire (thinking I might need it later).Waiting for the flight was uneventful. There was a whole lot of plexiglass up everywhere and not may stores or restaurants open in the terminal. There was a disturbing amount of single use plastics being utilized in the airline club (I asked the bartender to fill up my water bottle with her beverage gun and instead sh gave me 5 small plastic cups of water to pour into my bottle. Mask use was a high priority on the American Airlines flight that I was on. The person behind me was reminded twice to where his mask. Once off the plane we we all put onto a shuttle bus for the short trip to the terminal. The Bus was not as packed as some others I have been on, but there certainly wasn't any real attempt at social distancing. Prior to getting into the Immigration hall we had to fill out a form asking us if we had knowingly been exposed to Covid-19. This form asked me the same questions that I had answered on the online questionnaire. I filled it out and handed it to the agent. He looked it over, signed it, and handed it back to me. No one else ever asked for it. It wasn't scanned in or anything....so I'm, not really sure what the point was, but as a frequent traveler to Mexico, I am not surprised by this. After collecting my bags I headed to the Customs hall. When I handed in my customs form the agent asked me about my bags (3 checked bags and 2 carry on). She asked me what was inside the bags and I answered, truthfully, saying "1 is scuba gear, another is clothes and the last is for my camera." She asked how many cameras I had and I told her, truthfully, that I was traveling with 2. She then specifically asked me if I had a housing. I said "yes" (no point in lying about it). I was directed to a separate table in the hall where my carry-on bag and my UW camera bag were inspected. The Agents seemed only to be interested in my housing (a 4-5 year old Subal). They asked me very specific questions. They asked me how old it was and how much I could sell it for (not how much was it worth or how much I paid for it). When I was asked about how much I could sell if for I laughed and said that IF I could find someone to buy it I wouldn't expect to get more than $450USD for it. I asked them about what was going on and they informed me that since the value of what I was bringing in exceeded $500USD I was subject to a 19% duty. I told them that it wasn't for resale and I was going to be leaving with it. They said that it didn't matter. In my mind I see the dollars adding up (we all know how much a full UW photo kit costs). The agents stated that "it's not that much, don't worry". He went on to say that they just assume that the rest of the gear is valued at $500 and so I would only be responsible for the 19% on the housing (valued by me at $450). When i pushed back on this He changed the value to $350USD and informed me that I would have to pay around $57USD for the duty. Doing a quick time vs. money evaluation I agreed. I was then led into an office where a woman charged my credit card the $57USD. She also recorded the serial number off of my housing. I was given a receipt and a form (on which was a description of my housing and the serial number) that had both been stamped with some sort of official looking seal. The woman expressly told me to retain the receipt and the form as this was a one time fee and that as long as I had the same housing and the form, I would not be charged again. I repeated it back to her just to make sure that nothing was lost in translation. I then collected my bags and went outside the arrivals hall to brave the gauntlet of taxi drivers. Throughout the the entire experience the Mexican Customs agents were professional and polite. I have travelled in Mexico for years and am have had experiences with the "mordida" (bribe) and this had none of the feel of that. While I didn't like having to pay more money, it is their country and their rules. I felt the agent worked with me a bit and wasn't trying to take advantage of the situation; I travel with 4 strobes that are at least $800 a piece, never-mind the multiple dome ports and all the rest of the stuff that goes along with this crazy hobby. My advice to anyone dealing with a similar situation is to remain calm, remain respectful, and work with the agents to get to a reasonable number. Do not attempt to lie or conceal what you are traveling with...it won't end well for you. I hope this helps other travelers. Oh, I also asked my driver and the management at the hotel I am staying at prior to departure about what they plan to do about the upcoming Covid testing requirements for people returning to the US via air and they said that all of the hotels and resorts are working to have onsite rapid Covid testing for guests that conforms with the requirements of US health officials. I have faith that the Mexican toursim industry will be on top of this latest change. Stay safe.
  10. 2 points
    I will be sending Stuart some home made cables from 613 and 1000 core fibers as well as some 3 mm fibers that have good transmission as well. Bill
  11. 2 points
    I'm pro lanyard all the time. I clip on a coiled lanyard as soon as I splash. I have had to deal with critical safety and rescue scenarios more than once under water where there is no time for spare for the camera. Not having a lanyard already in place means you either don't deal with the emergency when needed most, or you lose the camera.
  12. 1 point
    Hi all, very few UW photographic opportunities for me in 2020. My best day was spent with the blue sharks of Penzance, Cornwall, UK.
  13. 1 point
    I also mostly stayed close to home last year. Thankfully, the Buffalo National River is only 10 minutes away. These images of a River Cooter and Longear Sunfish were two of my favorites of the year:
  14. 1 point
    Recovering from heart surgery meant I couldn't dive all year so I concentrated on swimming pools for fun and created a FB page Phuketpools This picture at Boat Lagoon resort is one of my favourites. 50m vis.
  15. 1 point
    Like everyone else, there were not many opportunities to dive. We remain under the world's longest general community quarantine here, now over 10 months. But under certain conditions it's been possible to dive since October, but visibility is not so good at this time of year and photo ops are limited to tight macro. So I'll just post this frogfish portrait that perfectly captures how 2020 felt. Looking forward to getting in the water this coming weekend and capturing the opposite emotion for 20201!
  16. 1 point
    I had only one dive trip in 2020, and I am grateful that it was a very good one to Raja Ampat on the Gaia liveaboard. Here are a couple of images from that trip. First is a nice fishy reefscape. 004_P1220113 by Erwin Poliakoff, on Flickr and here is a macro shot of a bubble coral shrimp 027_P1270240 bubble coral shrimp by Erwin Poliakoff, on Flickr
  17. 1 point
    I have only moving images. This sort movie summarizes well 2020 and the fact that I was restricted to dive "in the backyards", lakes and rivers in Germany. I entered this movie to the actioncup underwater video competition and won the action camera section:
  18. 1 point
    I guess YS-D3 must work TTL by wires normally. I don't see any problem for that. Officially, we did not test YS-D3 TTL by the sync cord yet, but plan to do it. If you can wait about a week, until we get YS-D3 for tests, we can supply you with the confirmed information. Let's be in contact by e-mail. YS-D3 does not have HSS. Only Retra strobes have HSS functionality. If you want HSS, you need "Retra Pro" strobes and UWTechnics TTL-Converter marked "HSS", those new boards have HSS updated firmware and hardware (available since August-2020).
  19. 1 point
    With the amount of trouble and expense you're going into to get the YS-D3s working, have you considered just selling them and getting something else? I have a pair of Retra Pros and they work flawlessly with the UWT trigger.
  20. 1 point
    I've been playing around with compacts underwater over last few years and have recently made up my mind to upgrade. I do 98% stills (both macro and wide angle) and coming from compacts, the next logical step would be micro 4/3,...., from what I've read and researched. I've always been a big Olympus fan, I love the OM-D series cameras but with the current Olympus situation, lack of local infrastructure and a major investment that must last and be adaptable to future upgrades, I've decided to go b@!!$ to wall and go full fame (go big or go home right. LOL) I really like the both the Nikon D850 and Nikon Z7, except for focus issues with the Z7 compared to the D850. I’m not really concerned about size and weight as majority of my diving is done in locations not requiring flying to get there. Nikon recently released the Z7 II with various improvements like the two EXPEED 6 processors, “which improves ….., including its buffer, autofocus, ….”. But nowhere have I been able to find any underwater reviews on the new Z7II. Has anyone been able to do some diving with the new Z7II and if so, how does it compare to its predecessor?
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Nitescuba has them for sale via Aliexpress for $1153/unit https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002021742834.html Looks like a straight reincarnation of YS-250. Big, heavy, lots of power, circular bulb, but no advanced features like TTL or HSS, and the battery pack is proprietary.
  23. 1 point
    last weekend we went dove the 'Flagpole' dive site in Hood canal, it is probably one of the best diving spot in that area, and behold, this easily wingspan 10 foot plus giant pacific octopus decided to come out of its den and say hi to us. absolutely once a life time experience for myself. shot on 1dx + retra strobs, WACP1 7-1 by Joe Hua, on Flickr 13-1 by Joe Hua, on Flickr 12-1 by Joe Hua, on Flickr 2-1 by Joe Hua, on Flickr 1-1 by Joe Hua, on Flickr
  24. 1 point
    Hey guys, I'm getting into underwater macro and super macro photography. I've done many dives with GoPro but have not taken any UW photography with a proper rig. I want a camera that takes excellent photo on land (significantly better than iPhone) and great macro photos underwater. I'd also like occasionally record UW video too. The rig should be fairly small and packable for travel. After looking into so many options starting from compact cameras to mirrorless with the helps of other members on my other thread, I'm leaning toward the Sony A6400 because the reviews for on land and underwater are great. There are a variety of housing options available. I can either shoot with the 16-50 mm lens and macro wet lens then upgrade to the Sony 90mm lens later. The price is not more and the size is not significantly larger than compact rig. What do you think about the A6400 setup for my use case? Could someone share their experience with their A6400 rig? Thanks
  25. 1 point
    I have been using the Zeiss 50mm Macro with my A6400. It has been a rockstar so far.
  26. 1 point
    Hi Guys, I have resolved the issue of the Anglerfish remote trigger not firing my strobe. It turns out all I needed was a new fibre optic cable, the one I was using was faulty. Yes, I feel like a bit of an idiot not checking this first. But it is always the simple things that are over looked. So the advice from Anglerfish saying it would not work with fibre optic cables and I had to install electronic sync cables was not the case. That just presented me with another problem as my YS-D2J would not fire when plugged into the sync cord. This issue still stands, but I am no longer chasing the answer to this as I no longer need the sync cords. I am going back to my fibre optics. Thanks for your input, appreciate it. Happy Diving Tash
  27. 1 point
    I use the optical view finder with a snoot. The one tip I will offer is to use a Red focus light when using a snoot. The aiming light gets lost if using a white focus light, and if it's too dark you can't autofocus. A red focus light will allow you to see the aiming light. Other than that it just takes a bit of practice. Get your snoot lined up on a rock or some stationary target before taking a real shot. I tend to eyeball the scene from above the camera and then go to the viewfinder to fine tune.
  28. 1 point
    Hi Phil, thanks for your info, appreciated. Some of the Seahorses here (Perth, Australia) are on the taller side (10cm ish) and I would compare that with the size of the crab. Compared with the 90mm this lens would get me closer to the subject, which is what I'm looking for. I'm happy to use MF/DMF and Focus Tracking, that works for me most of the times, except if there is to much surge. Agree with the 90mm lens for macro/super macro. ;-) Yes, I use the same, but for to get the extra magnification, if I want (I know, could just crop the larger full frame picture). Very interesting to hearing about this, as this seems to be as well a good option for this purpose. Thanks Phil, good info for me to think about. With the price of both lenses not being astronomical, they both might be good options. Just need to look into port configurations (thanks for the info on this) as (obviously) want to try to keep the number of ports/extension rings to a minimum. Cheers!! - Y
  29. 1 point
    The Sony FE 50mm F/2.8 macro uses an n100 32mm flat port with an N100 40mm extension and at life size the lens sits just inside the port glass so you can take full advantage of shooting at 1:1 but very close to the subject. The lens is better suited to animals in the 1:2 and larger range. The lens is both slow and noise so not ideal for video. Image quality is tack sharp and you can use the focus limiting feature to reduce the distance the lens needs to travel. Focus limit allows you to shoot in the 1:1 to about 1:4 or about 6 to 7 inch range. This takes a lot of getting use to and you may be better off at 1:1 to infinity to start. Smaller subjects like the attached crab photo are best for subject size. I much prefer the Sony FE 90mm F/2.8 macro especially for macro and super macro with closeup lenses like Nauticam SMC- 1 & 2. I would also add that I have the AEL push button on my Nauticam NA-A7RIV housing set to switch between full frame and APS-C. This means that with the 50mm macro I can switch to APS-C for more distance to the subject (APS-C becomes a 75mm). In APS-C I still get a 26MP file which is larger than most APS-C cameras. I should have the new port and zoom gear for the Sony FE 28-60mm in house in time for a review at uwpmag.com issue for May/June 2021. I may also have a review for the Nauticam A7c housing at that time. The new Nauticam NA-A7C housing has posted on the Nauticam web page if anyone is interested. This is a 24MP full frame camera with a housing the size of the A6600 housing.
  30. 1 point
    The Canon RF 15-35mm is probably the lens you want to first consider if looking native. From some tests I've seen its sharper than the EF 16-35mm II. I'm not sure the Ikelite 8' dome would do it justice though. You might want to upgrade to one of the higher end housings to get a glass dome. However the cost of the RF 15-35mm plus a nice glass dome port would put you in the price range of a WACP-1. I have the Nauticam R6 housing and it was almost like a research project deciding on all the settings I wanted. Not all the buttons and controls are necessary underwater. Beyond the choice of optics, things to consider on a new housing is how easy it is to change batteries, SD cards, ports and lenses. It makes a difference when doing 4 dives a day on a long trip.
  31. 1 point
    I cannot contribute much - Since I am considering to acquire an additional system, I read posts in different photography forums on the new mirrorless cameras and the performance of adopted lenses of the old systems (no new mirrorless system has, at the moment, enough lens choice of native lenses): Normally adopting lenses with adapter, even from the same company, slows down AF. This is the case with Sony and especially Nikon (there is a tread in this forum that the Tokina 10-17mm fisheye does even not work with the new Z bodies). Generally the slowed down AF (in case it works) is not so much a problem with WA(?) and fisheye lenses, but becomes a real problem with longer focal ranges macro lenses... Adopting Canon EF lenses to RF mount cameras seems to be an exception, there are many, many treads and tests in the internet where users state that their (modern) EF-lenses work better and focus faster on the new RF bodies, especially R6 and R5, when compared to performance on the original DSLR bodies for which the lenses have been designed for (the dual pixel AF system of Canon seems to be the most advanved technology at present; The CAF systems of Panasonic or Nikon cannot compete). Look here, just as an example, there are many more similar treads/reports in the internet: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4547484 As far as I am concernded, I think I will go with Canon and use the EF lenses I already have (8-15mm fisheye; 100mm Macro IS L). I expect them to work at least as good as if they were native on a EF DSLR body, but this still has to be shown... Wolfgang
  32. 1 point
    Hi everyone, New member here, thought I'd introduce myself with some shots from my home country, Scotland. These recently featured in the Dive Photo Guide photographer of the week. Having some trouble linking images from elsewhere so here's a link to the article and a small sample. http://www.divephotoguide.com/underwater-photography-special-features/article/underwater-photographer-week-mark-kirkland
  33. 1 point
    I always use a lanyard, clipped to my D-ring on my right side of my waist belt. I have had various lanyards, and I just got one of these. This seems like the best design on the market (that I know of). https://www.opticaloceansales.com/coiled-webbing-lanyard-bolt-snap.html I got the version with a bolt snap to clip to my D-ring. The only plastic in the whole thing is the QR buckle used to shorten it up. That means there is no plastic anywhere that could break and allow the camera to be lost. The webbing that connects the 2 ends is something like 4000# tensile strength. It's all sewn together (versus RF welding or any kind plastic). I clip it on as soon as a boat person hands it down to me in the water (using the handle that is connected on each side between the two middle strobe arm clamps). I unclip it when I'm ready to hand it up to a boat person. So, there are two very brief periods where it is not clipped to anything. Those times make me nervous. But, the idea of having to fumble around to unclip it after I've handed it to someone on the boat - which is potentially rocking and rolling - seems even worse. I don't know. Maybe I will change to doing it that way next time. So far, having them hand it down to me has never been any kind of issue. I think even if they fumbled and dropped it, I would be able to catch it.
  34. 1 point
    I am also pro lanyard all the time. I totally agree with davehicks as I have had to assist a fellow diver (not my buddy, I dive mostly solo) in a rapidly deteriorating situation where panic was about to set in. Every second was precious to prevent him from doing an emergency ascent (equipment problem with reg.). Since my kit was already attached using a lanyard similar to that pic from ChrisRoss, I just dropped it and used both hands to deal with the panicked diver. Fortunately everything worked out. I attach my lanyard to a D-ring on my BCD belt. That way it stays out of my chest area and dangles below my feet when dropped assuming there is no bottom just below me.
  35. 1 point
    Well, that is weird - am no physicist, but suggests the sensor may not be as sensitive to red light? Just took a look at the S-Turtle trigger - looks like an interesting bit of kit, . Maybe test it on Manual rather than TTL first just to ensure you get a bright enough output? Fingers crossed it works for you!
  36. 1 point
    The 8mm Fisheye is a good choice. Alternatively you can cover the inbetween buy using a 14-42mkII lens and using the WWL-1 Wetlens. I'd prefer the Fisheye for two reasons: It's lighter and it's wider which will be useful for most shots. I would not bother with any of the larger domes and rectilinear wides (8-18mm, 7-14mm etc). I also don't think lenses like the 12-40 PRO or similar are that useful underwater. People seem to look at lenses with a completionist mindset, trying to cover all the focal lengths, but it's really not necessary to cover everything from the start. WWL-1 or Fisheye is the choice you have really.
  37. 1 point
    Just watched it again, enjoyed it twice as much as the first time.
  38. 1 point
    About 7 years ago I wanted to buy the Zen 230 glass dome but I was assured that the Nauticam glass was the same, so I bought it. To check, I took a template of the internal radius of my Nauticam dome to Bangkok to see if Douglas Seifert's Zen dome was the same. They seemed identical. A +2 B&W dioptre will improve corners, but also reduce the angle of view. I found I didn't need it with the 230 glass and Nikon 16-35. If the corners are a problem I would try the Sea & Sea Internal Correction lens. If I was doing this again, I would try the Sea & Sea first with the 8.5" acrylic dome which is so much lighter, cheaper and easier to polish if necessary.
  39. 1 point
    I bought two D3s last year, and got the S&S fibre cables at the same time. Pleased to confirm it works well (as claimed by S&S) with the Nauticam Oly trigger, which has white light LEDs. I do make sure to keep my sensor windows and cables scrupulously clean just in case, and I'm careful about how I pack the cables to avoid wear and tear as they aren't cheap!
  40. 1 point
    So the folder on my website is www.basilkiwan.com/Nature/Saba-Dive-Trip/ That was all shot with the LX100 II. I mostly shot wide angle, with many shots using the Nauticam WWL-1 on that trip. Take your time weighing out options, because it is an expensive purchase. Cameras that have more housing options are definitely more attractive, because your housing is likely to be more expensive than the camera. The LX100 II is good at macro, but the Sony RX100 line of cameras (probably the RX100 VII) has an advantage because of its longer focal length lens. When I want to shoot macro on the LX100 II, I use the standard port, and flip on the Nauticam CMC wet lens - that arrangement allows me to shoot tight macro, or flip the lens out of the way and shoot regular mid-range focal length portraits (though not wide angle). I find shooting macro challenging, because with a wet lens, I usually have to manually focus (autofocusing through a wet lens is difficult), and it is hard to manual focus when you are buffeted by currents. But that is more a limitation of me, as a photographer, than of the camera. If you go to interchangeable lens camera, (Sony, Olympus, Panasonic), you get the advantage of more flexible lens options. For example, with micro 4/3 cameras (Panasonic, Olympus), there is the excellent Olympus 60mm macro lens, and some of the zoom lenses in that class have decent macro modes. But generally, you have a larger rig (more ports, swapping lenses and ports between dives, etc..) That said, it is worth checking out housing options for any camera you might be interested - Nauticam, Ikelite, Isotta, Aquatica, AOI, Fantasea, etc... because some housings are definitely smaller than others. For macro specifically, the other advantage that both the Sony RX100 line and the LX100 line have is flash synch speed. Compact cameras have a leaf shutter - the shutter is built into the lens, not on top of the sensor. Interchangeable lens cameras (mirrorless and DSLRs) have a focal plane shutter. Typically a DSLR or mirrorless can synch with a flash or strobe at shutter speeds up to 1/200 or 1/250th of a second. If you go faster than that, you start getting this black band across your image - which is actually the panels of the shutter moving across the focal plane. Cameras with a leaf shutter do not have this limitation. The RX100 VII can synch up to 1/2000 of a second, I believe the LX100 II can synch with a flash or strobe up to 1/2000 or 1/4000 of a second. It add flexibility to your photography, particularly for macro photos, where you want to obscure the background. When you shoot with a strobe underwater (or on land), your shutter speed is controlling the ambient light. Your aperture is controlling depth of field. Your strobe is lighting your subject in the foreground. If you have a high shutter speed, you can "kill the ambient" - the background can be rendered almost black, while your subject in the foreground (say a little blenny) is light carefully by your strobe. It's not the only way to get that black background that isolates your subject your subject in the foreground, but it is an extra tool that you don't get with mirrorless or dslr cameras. That said, I have not used this very much (since I am typically shooting wide angle not macro), but it is something I want to try more of on my next dive trip.
  41. 1 point
    OK this image clarifies the placement. Its a larger image of what is shown in the book.
  42. 1 point
    I use both the Nauticam trigger for Sony & the S-TTL trigger made by Pavel (Disclaimer : i paid for it and am not affiliated with Turtle). With YSD2J strobes I never had any issue with the S-TTL and its battery lasts longer than I've ever needed (I charge it every 2 day of diving just in case but never ran out so far). I can't complain on that front. The trigger has worked great for me. As per fiber optics, I have built my own fiber optic cables to my Sea & Sea strobes. I 3D printed the Sea&Sea connector and plugged the optic fiber (3mm core/4mm diameter total) and this works flawlessly. Much more robust than the Nauticam ones
  43. 1 point
    Hi Tino, In case no one replies here, have a try with the French UW forum (forum-photosub.fr) - a lot of DIY homemade projects are posted there.
  44. 1 point
    We have just returned from our first cruise in 2021 and have to say the beautiful islands of Surin and Similan National Parks in Thailand have been delivered to us... Guess what we meet... An extremely strange creature for the novice but well known by divers... It works as cleaner for other marine creatures... The Pacific Clown Anemone Shrimp has a greatest body length of 40 millimeters and is an appealing looking shrimp. The base tone is straightforward and on the females the side of the mid-region is colored orange with huge white dabs. There is likewise a noticeable white protuberance behind the eyes on the female. Under amplification this mound is shrouded in a floral design. This can be found on this picture. The motivation behind the mound isn't known however almost certainly, it appealing to the males. The head is colored orange and there is a white line between the eyes. The males are not as bright and don't have the dabs as an afterthought or the white hump.The tail is white on both genders and there are five fragments on the finish of the tail with orange imprints encompassed by purple. Look at this shot and tell us what do you think about it.
  45. 1 point
    Lots of good advice here. I’ll add based on experience an earlier E-PL series camera then moving up the ladder of various OM-D cameras. If you want a single lens and port that does it all, there will be compromises. Wet lenses will improve them, just don’t cut corners by buying the cheapest ones as some are close to worthless. The 14-42mm EZ lens is crap in my opinion, unsharp and low contrast even on land, so I would insist on the much better 14-42 mark II but it may not work with the housing you are looking at. The Olympus 12-50mm zoom is a better lens choice with true macro capability but requires a much more expensive housing, port, and gear. I have no experience with that brand of housing, but the difference between the Olympus polycarbonate housing and the Nauticam housings are night and day in terms of ergonomics. On land, the E-PL cameras are great for travel and all-purpose use with plenty of room to grow as a photographer. And yes, 16 MP is fine. Shoot RAW from the beginning (save JPEGs too for quick sharing) and start learning how to process them in your favorite software package. Have fun!
  46. 1 point
    Alex, it would be interesting to see a similar analysis and graph done for a fisheye lens.
  47. 1 point
    This cable gland brand is used in several rebreather. And I used in a couple of DIY projects. It exists in different diameter: http://www.rutab.com/products/cable-glands/cable-glands-brass/metric-thread/1470510
  48. 1 point
    @joanna_dives One quick addition on @TimG's great comments... I too went on the same journey. Z240 with the Retra LSD snoot - the offset light makes it that much more difficult to get the image you actually want. I found myself settling for imperfect shots either because of time or frustration. Switched to Retra (Pro) strobes - huge improvement. However, I didn't stop there - the Backscatter Mini Flash & snoot combo looked really interesting - not because it would offer anything more than the Retra LSD snoot (which is excellent), but because it was smaller, and would allow me to potentially dive with my regular macro set up and bring this along as another option on the same dive (w/out having to fiddle with putting a snoot on/taking it off). The pandemic has made it harder to get field time with this setup, but I was able to use it on several dives at the end of last year - from those handful of dives, I'm sold. Very useful specifically on macro-oriented dives where you may want snoot capability and 2 flash macro (non-snooted). The mini flash & snoot combo is small enough to stay mostly out of the way when not needed, and then available when you want it.
  49. 1 point
    Deep6 Eddy fins, light, powerful, best control ever... My personal favorite piece of equipment
  50. 1 point
    This is how I loop the cabe in the housing, and it (just about) allows me to slide the camera out enough to change battery and card. Its close to the focus zoom mechanism, but doesn't foul it.

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