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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/14/19 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Should you find a way to actually make a living off of selling underwater imagery - Keep it a secret! Because if you don't, then soon everyone else will have the the secret and it won't be a secret anymore and you will be back where you started. Inspiration and innovation is the mother of invention. Actually it’s just a mother.
  2. 1 point
    Great for me to know about! Thanks!
  3. 1 point
    Hey all! I've just finished a group of video tutorials designed for all levels of u/w photographers to speed up their editing workflow: -> tutorials.brentdurand.com/editing The videos (and companion articles) cover Presets, Collections and Target Collections, Watermarks and more. Are there other topics you'd like covered? Shoot me a DM if so. Thanks, and enjoy!
  4. 1 point
    Here is my second project using FCPX: https://youtu.be/6u1IIMjMOWA I will greatly appreciate your constructive criticism and recommendations. In this video, I was trying to capture a beauty and abundance of marine life in Raja Ampat during our 9-day stay at Misool Eco Resort. My camera is Sony A7Rii with a 28mm and 28mm+fisheye lens. I used two Keldan Video 8X lights (11000 lm, 92 CRI), which are fantastic video lights. Thank you very much.
  5. 1 point
    Hi- I'm Laurence Ransom from Greensboro NC and have been reading Wetpixel for about a year. I am a realtively new UW diver x 3 years and have just begun serious UW photography. Looking forward to learning better technique etc.. from this site.
  6. 1 point
    Hey guys, Sharing my first shot using Canon 7D and Tokina 10-17 fisheye. Its my first time to DSLR
  7. 1 point
    In terms of lenses on the fisheye once you go past f/4 there are no differences For macro the Panasonic lens is better However while Panasonic bodies work well with Olympus lenses the opposite is less true so I would go with the Olympus fisheye and skip the 30 to go for the 60mm Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk
  8. 1 point
    Look my blog for the lx100 test there is also the dome and it stops focusing pretty soon The lx10 has only one port tho Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk
  9. 1 point
    I had a LX100 (the first model) for nearly 4 years before moving to a GH5s. While I love the GH5s, I sometimes miss that the LX100. LX100 is really nice for video, good at low light, but underwater you need to go the expensive Nauticam road if you want full control (Ikelite and other are partial with manual focus notably missing on Ikelite). And for macro work, you will need the flip holder and lens diopters. Therefore I wouldn't call that bundle a best value package. Also the first model of LX100 was good at getting some dust on the sensor at some stage through the lens barel. The repair is expensive. I don't know but hope the problem has been solved on the LX100II .
  10. 1 point
    Since I started with cameras I though dome ports purpose was to restore the air field of view of the camera and that do so the centre of curvature of the dome had to be placed near the entrance pupil of the lens. Along the years I have started taking test shots of a ruler with an empty and full sink and I noticed in some cases considerable loss of field of view. I thought this was a trade off in those cases where the dome has to be kept to a reasonable size and you needed to avoid vignetting. Typically entrance pupil information for lenses is not provided by manufacturers and furthermore for zoom lenses this moves on the lens itself. Recently I have acquired a full frame lens where this information was available and I have noticed that the suggested extension by the manufacturer was not on the entrance pupil but further behind. This made no sense to me as according to theory once you determine the entrance pupil the real point if you consider a thick dome is actually with the lens closer not further away. I got curious about this situation so I started measuring the suggested position of the dome for a rectilinear wide angle lens I own. I then compared with the suggested manufacturer extension to find out the centre of the dome would be almost at the end of the lens. I then performed some tests to see if this was the entrance pupil and it was clear it was not and that the correct place was around 2 cm behind this point. I then enquired the manufacturer to understand why such long extensions are recommended and I found out that the design for a dome port is pretty much like this 1. Select a given dome port large enough to give decent results 2. Put the camera and lens at the wide and and the dome on a macro pilot with the dome inserted in water pointing to a resolution chart 3. Perform various MTF measuremens moving the camera to determine the needed extension that does not vignette In all cases I have checked this method gives a longer extension that the theory suggests this also means that the dome will actually loose field of view by definition. I am not sure I agree with this approach for a number of reasons 1. If the field of view is being reduced to achieve sharpness I would like to know what I am loosing 2. Placing the lens further away from the dome results in the dome acting like a lens so it is clear it will be sharper but this could be achieved anyway zooming in that actually moves the entrance pupil backwards in most cases 3. The tests are only conducted at wide end this may be fine for a prime lens but for a zoom lens there is no guarantee that MTF will hold as you zoom in Maybe I am being naive but if I buy a lens that has 100 degrees field of view and a dome I am expecting this to be more or less the same not to be cut down of an unknown amount based on how sharp are the corners of the image. Am I alone? How many people know that domes may actually NOT restore the air field of view and not of a small amount?
  11. 1 point
    I found some issues with purple fringing with the Pany 8mm, on my EM-1 MkII. Apparently the cut off filter for UV is different between Pany and Oly with the Olympus letting through wavelengths that the Pany lens does not fully correct for. Doesn't appear on all shots, most noticable with bright objects against dark backgrounds. The Capture One Pro purple fringing tool can remove much of it. If I was doing it again I'd get the Oly lens. I had a post on that here: I was also thinking the corners were quite soft but have since decided that is due to the corner in question being much closer and falling outside the DOF. The shot in question was along a wall and the wall itself was much closer than what I was photographing. I use the Pany 30mm macro, AF is quite snappy, noticably better than the 60mm macro, haven't used the OLy 30mm to compare. You can't take advantage of the extra magnification (1.25x) on the Oly as it focuses almost on the port glass. In fact I think the practical limit for lighting with the 30mm lenses is about 0.5x as you are getting so close to the port glass it is diffciult to light. Where they shine is for larger subjects - small fish size up to about a 300mm long subject. The working distance for such subjects is too great for the 60mm macro - too much water between you and the subject and much higher chance of backscatter, particulatlry in temperate waters where I shoot often. Some examples: Fish 20cm long: http://www.aus-natural.com/Underwater/Bony Fish/slides/Senator Wrasse 3.html Fish 12cm long: http://www.aus-natural.com/Underwater/Bony Fish/slides/Blotched Hawkfish.html Nudi 5cm long, 50% crop: http://www.aus-natural.com/Underwater/Nudibranches/slides/Hypselodoris bennetti.9.html Nudis 4cm long: http://www.aus-natural.com/Underwater/Nudibranches/slides/Goniobranchus tasmaniensis2.html
  12. 1 point
    My opinion... I have both Olympus and Panasonic 8mm. Still having it. And yes, the Oly glass is superior, but not by heaven and earth. But u got F/1.8 when u need to shoot sunray in a cave... Not a necessity, but something nice to have. And no, u don't have to remove the lens in order to remove it from your housing. That's only for M.Zuiko 7-14mm F/2.8 PRO. Macro, my choice is Olympus 60mm F/2.8. Good working range with great Image Quality. Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk
  13. 1 point
    Check out this underwater review of the Sony A7R IV, we had the chance to take it to Guadalupe Island and test it with the white sharks! https://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/sony-a7r-iv-review
  14. 1 point
    For the sharks, we were fairly far away from them, and we only tried it once, but the animal eye AF didn't work well. I think for this type of animal visibility and conditions will play a big factor. For blennies, we were using AF tracking and it worked fantastic. We didn't take any test video with the animal eye AF - we're planning on taking some more video later on this week. Check out some of our video footage here:
  15. 1 point
    The best optical performance of a rectilinear lens will always be a larger dome regardless of materials There are some cases on Nauticam chart where a glass port is suggested when the size is identical. I asked them why and they told me generally glass has better durability and resists reflections but there is no performance difference actually. In other cases for mid range zoom the dome suggested in glass is smaller than acrylic this is because of the durability point above and the fact that the glass has more trim On larger ports acrylic becomes very buoyant and the trim becomes unacceptable so there is a tendency to use glass
  16. 1 point
    Nice work, I can see why they would want to use that for marketing.
  17. 1 point
    Also depends on which housing system you are on and what size port you want. If you on Nauticam then there is an 8.5" (215mm) acrylic dome, if you want bigger like the 230 and 250mm domes for very wide lenses they seem to be mostly glass construction. Getting the big domes is what tends to make a difference for ultra wide (weitwinkel) lenses in the 11-16mm range - mostly in terns of corner quality. You will note in Nauticam's port charts one dome/extension is marked with an asterisk as being the optimum.
  18. 1 point
    Use masking non reflective tape on the lens marking solves majority of problems except lens flare Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk
  19. 1 point
    I have heard many complaints of problems with corners edges etc using rectilinear lenses. Mostly those are not real problems but consequence of a lens system and perspective so I thought of doing a little write up https://interceptor121.com/2019/10/13/using-rectilinear-wide-lenses-underwater/ In short if you really want to shoot rectilinear use an 18mm focal length or narrower otherwise the issues in wrecks and close shots are guaranteed, that if they are issues!
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    Morning all! I'm new to underwater video's and thought I'd share some clips from Israel (shot with Sony RX100 II)
  22. 1 point
    AshKaras - you alluded to it in your post. Use a high aperture (f/18 +) and more of the background of the image will be in focus. The amount the background will be in focus depends on the distance to your primary subject, a concept known to landscape photographers as Hyperfocal Distance. I cover this in Part IV of my video tutorial miniseries on Autofocus for Underwater Photography. Good luck!
  23. 1 point
    I am reading here with interest and can answer the last question: for equisolid fisheye diagonal AOV's are 180-98 degree for Tokina 10mm - 17mm and 160-79 degree for 8-15mm with 1.4x converter (=11.2-21mm), both on DX. Wolfgang
  24. 1 point
    I’ve have had two D1s for a number of years without problem. But with S&S apparently not standing behind their product, according to Reef Photo comment, I’ll not consider any of their products when replacement time comes. In today’s market, it’s inexcusable that a manufacturer would not admit a mistake and cast their customers adrift without support.
  25. 1 point
    Which is why you should let the housing sit for a while before jumping in. For a given leakpath, air will leak in much faster than water will. So leaving it sit in air for 20-30 minutes gives it a chance to leak in some air and set off the sensor. Also we should not take it as read that front and back are sealed you can't tell where the leak is without some detective work it could be any of the O-rings in the rig. If it keeps leaking you will need to check all the O-rings, perhaps submerging the rig while packed with tissue to see if you can determine where the water is coming in.
  26. 1 point
    I'm Cher from Hong Kong I'm an ecologist and designer/photographer/artist by training and have been working as a scientific diver in Hong Kong. I had to pick up dive photography for work and it turned into a great hobby to keep the job interesting on my many dives. Water quality keeps me to macro shooting most of the time. After shooting with a company owned Olympus TG-4 with just flashlights for a year and a half, I'm slowly building my own gear now as I'm starting to further my studies in marine ecology. I sometimes blog over at http://cherchow.com too! Here are some of the photos I've taken in the last year.
  27. 1 point
    I agree with most of what you are saying, but I am quite sure that no strobe manufacturer would agree to supply repair or replacement parts to anyone other than an authorized repair facility. Strobes have big capacitors in them that can hurt you if you don't know what you are doing. Not as bad as some scientific gear based on capacitors (we had a nitrogen laser in our lab that had a label that said "touching the capacitors when charged will lead to death with a high degree of certainty) but still bad enough. I am pretty sure it would be tough to get insurance to cover that kind of risk. For me, when I have a failed strobe I send it to Devin at Pacific Housing, he can get parts and is considerably faster than either S&S or Inon. Cheers Bill
  28. 1 point
    Thank you for your recommendations, dreifish. Everything make sense now. I will follow your recommendations in the future. Regarding picture profile, I used standard, plus I did some color correction, but did not change saturation. By the way, I checked your YouTube channel, and watched many of your films about Raja Ampat and Komodo, and was very impressed. I wish I could create something close to it one day. Great films! Thank you again, Val
  29. 1 point
    I regret buying my YS-D2 strobes. Bought one very slightly used (i.e. no warranty), and one new. The new one was messed up upon arrival. It would flash itself every few seconds while underwater with no provoking. Bluewater replaced that one for me. The replacement for that ended up with the burnt flash tube like in this thread like 6 months later. That one was replaced with the D2J yellow version. Now the first D2 that I bought (the not truly new one) no longer changes output strength when I turn the dial. Stuck in one setting only. Was fine for 2 years and now this. My dive buddy had a YS-01 fail on her as well. Wouldn't fire and perpetually charging the capacitor while getting hot. Don't buy from Sea & Sea. Retra or Inon only at this point.
  30. 1 point
    You could argue both ways on the battery cap issue. To me the key with INON o-rings is to use enough grease, the just enough to make it shiny instruction which is right for housing o-rings doesn't really apply to INON o-rings. The issue is the sliding motion as you screw on the cap wipes the grease away, so if they are well greased they screw on easily and the risk of twisting is minimised. In addition the transparent cap allows you to inspect the o-ring and you can see the sealing surface easily through the cap and tell if it is twisted or there is hair or grit. I was actually convinced on the INON when I bought it as the dealer argued that the INON had a better battery cap arrangement. The Manual I agree is terrible but they are not that hard to understand and there are a few online guides available which cut through the crap and tell you how to use them. As for reliability there are a number of threads on S&S reliability but not so much on INON, there's internet amplification to consider but that should apply equally to both brands. The one issue with the INONs was the small knobs which has been addressed with the latest Z330. Another point in favour if the INONs is the slave sensor is much more sensitive compared to S&S. If we are talking Z-330 vs YS-D2J the INON is also significantly more powerful even though they have the same guide number more or less as the Z-330 has a much wider beam. The S&S has an 80° beam without diffuser and the INON 110° without diffuser. If you add the 100° diffusers the S&S becomes guide no 24 and GN 20 with the 120° diffuser. INON offers a -0.3EV soft diffuser which maintains 110° and just softens light and gives a guide no of 27.
  31. 1 point
    Hello Photographers I would like to share with you my story with YS-D2 Strobe , i have this Strobe form one and half years light used , it was so perfect with me , last time when i was diving i have a problem the strobe level control come out of control it was firing only in full power even when i adjust the control level to low power , at home i change cable and mode but still same problem ( only firing full power ) . i send email for Sea&Sea Company to tell them my issue if they can repair the strobe but until today i did not get any response from them , and i send email for the shop i buy it from he tell me the Strobe not under warranty any more , and cost for repairing this problem will be close to for the new one cost , he recommended to me buy new one. i come depressed after his email, for last chance i take the strobe for local camera shop in my country the technician say he need few days to check the strobe after 5 days they call to tell me they need to change small electronic part and interior O-ring the cost will be ( 40 $ ) . after repairing i check it at home was working very well and use it now in more than 15 dives it's working perfect Strobe before repairing Strobe after repairing
  32. 1 point
    I agree it would be nice to see more feedback from those being used in the wild. My understanding is that they are still fairly backordered and maybe Nauticam hasn't been able to keep up with demand. Being on backorder is enough time to change your mind and buy something else! I would desperately like one for the caves but can't justify the cost. In aussie dollars with the extension ring and new (even cheap new) lens, it's close to $7k. I guess maybe if I sold my Canon 14mm and domes that would make a dent in the price but then I'd be shooting with the WACP on every dive, all the time. If it was to be my main wide angle rig I'd like to hear from other people using it day to day for all their diving, not just special trips or special dives.
  33. 1 point
    Humans are really stupid animals.... We should enjoy what we get to see, and we have the luxury to fix these moments for others. Beeing an instructor, it was allways a have to do for me, to show people a bit about the underwater world, and to tell them how lucky we are, simply to have a chance watching this real. I have seen divers / photographers watching a scene, and while swimming away kicking the animal from ist original place.... Divers, taking a pic of a pygmy in a fan, and kicking the next fan with their fins, so if there was a pygmy, it would have thought this will be the end of the world... For the "best shot" putting animals to places they would never go... And riscing the live of that poor thing... It looks on land, like there is only me, than me and than, after a long break maybe something else... Under water without witness, it can be even worse... So ist our job to save of the underwaterworld as much as possible. To tell people what stupid things they were doing, even when this means to get unfriendly answers. Who else than a photographer archieves things there??? If you visit some places for years, you see the changes. And we can document it, and tell the people why... Sorry for the Long message, but i think ist time to give the "blue" part of the planet a bit back of what we take.... Regards, Wolfgang
  34. 1 point
    Just take pics of things how it is, leave the marine life be. I really thought this was common sense, or at least hoped it was.
  35. 1 point
    Humans are insane! I've seen do it in Indo with the flamboyant. I think the main focus point has to be: Education. PADI and any other agency, instead to brainwashing students in buying equipment, should have at least one chapter focus in Marine Bio. Because that is what divers are gonna see! We need to educate'em in the first steps of diving! and, just to answer: not biggie at all!



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