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rooster

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About rooster

  • Rank
    Damselfish

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  • Website URL
    http://www.netpci.com/pages/rooster1/
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Profile Information

  • Location
    Guam

Additional Info

  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D70
  • Camera Housing
    Ikelite
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    DS-125 DS-50
  1. Another Harley Deuce man here. I've been riding for more than 30 years. started in the dirt. Did a little racing on and of road. Mostly metric street bikes (non crusers), Now the wife and I both have harleys. Currently have an 03 Deuce, and and an 03 883 sportster for the wife. Here's mine:
  2. I just noticed this also, and was wondering the same thing. I have both the 6" and 8" dome that "was" recommended for the Sigma 10-20. So what is the reason for pulling the support? Are there inherent problems with this lens housing combo? I have only used the 6" 10-20 combo a couple of times and the 8" 10-20 about 5 times while on a recent trip to Palau. It is a real pain to assemble this lens/camera/port assembly, but once it's together, it seems to work OK. Perhaps Ike got too many complaints about how difficult it was to put together. If that's the problem, I'll live with it. If it's something else, I would really like to know.
  3. Not much difference in price between D70 and D50. Much bigger jump to the D200, not just in the bodies but also in housings. The Ike housing is the same for the D70 and D50, so the only difference is about a $100 in the price of the body. The D200 is about a grand more than the D-70 body and the Ike housing is close to $200 more. All three Ike housings are the same size, offer ITTL and very close in features. If cost was the biggest factor I'd go for the D70 as it's only slightly more than the D50, but a much better camera. If money is an issue but not the only factor, do the D200, you'll go a lot longer before you get the upgrade urge, which will save you in the long run.
  4. I had the same thing happen to my F-100. What housing are you using? The reason I ask is that I always wondered it the Aquatica housing rear knob didn't put a little too much pressure on it causing it to fail. I sent it into Nikon and had it repaired. They replaced the whole dial and switch mechanism, and serviced the camera. Don’t recall the price, but I remember I was able to track online. I do remember it took several weeks. I never had a problem with it after that. Still working good. If you need someone to ship to, you can always ship to me on Guam, than I can forward to you. Not that everyone ships to Guam, we do have better access. The offer is legit, Tim Rock or Chris Bangs will vouch for me, if you trust them that is.
  5. I can see your "point" I don't actually dive with it hanging like that I just wanted to show how it is used. I do hook the bridel across on dives that may need the hook, but the hook is kept stowed in my left brest pocket untill needed. I just got back from Palau and used this setup on only two of ten dives, the rest of the time it stayed stowed.
  6. I use a standard bow line to tie the clips. It's the easiest for me to remember. Something about the fox comes out the hole, around the tree, and back down the hole. You know, simple things for simple minds.
  7. After my first trip to Palau, I made a bridle for my BC. Two small clips and a short length of parachute cord, doubled for strength. Clips from D-ring to D-ring across the chest. Two knots help center the clip of the reef hook but still allows the clip to slide, if needed, to turn sideways. I spent several hours this last weekend digging in my closets looking for it, as I’m headed to Palau in two weeks. I finally found it in my old BC that was replaced last year. I also found a lost Do-Rag and pair of gloves. Woo-Hoo I’m set to go.
  8. The shade was positioned properly, any rotation made it worse. I probably will get the 8" dome, but when I ordered the housing and lens B&H had the 8" on back order. The one thing that I do not like about Ikes 8" is that is that it has no shade, at least not at the moment. Trimming the shade on this port is not a big deal as it is black plastic. I could just take the shade off but I like the protection it affords.
  9. No extension rings with the Ike ports. You have to match the port to the lens. I used the port recommended by the Ike web site.
  10. I just got the Sigma 10-20 and have dove with it once. This is a completely new rig for me, as I was a hold out to film, so I'm no expert on this. There was one thing I did notice, that has not been mentioned. When shooting through Ike's 6" dome the lens shade shows up (just barely) when zoomed all the way out to 10mm. You don't see it through the D-70 view finder since it is not a full frame view finder. Looks like a little trimming on the shade will take care of it. I do like this lens though it is a "little" more of a pain to instal in the Ike housing.
  11. The instructor outline for this course is already available for PADI instructors to download at PADI.com. It's in the PADI Pros section.
  12. I don't think anyone said TTL on the CPs didn't work. What "I" tried to say is that TTL is not a magic thing that will give great exposure in all conditions. Most on this board will agree that some exposure compensation or adjustment is needed to get accurate exposure even when using TTL. Even your own tests show the wide exposure accuracy (or inaccuracy) of TTL, depending on the initial settings of the camera. I stand by my statement that not having TTL on the Aquatica A995 is not that big a deal. I bought this camera, and then the housing for my wife. She is camera illiterate, and she was able to take very nice pictures with this set up, right away, with out TTL. Here are some of the first pics I took with this housing. All with out TTL. [Edited on 5-27-2002 by rooster]
  13. I have the Aquatica A995 housing. Though at first I was very disappointed that there is no TTL, I have found this, in practice, to be a moot point. Most (if not all?) of the digital cameras today (except for the BIG guns) don’t offer true TTL. Exposure UW with TTL with most of these cameras is ballpark and not spot on. Most require some exposure compensation any ways. You will need a strobe (like the YS-90DX) that has multi manual settings for best control of exposure. I use a SB-105 (pilfered from my Nik V) and this works great. The controls on the housing are very easy to use, so making quick exposure adjustment UW is a snap. Like all UW photo equipment, it takes a little practice to get used to, but once you do, this combo works very well. The 45 deg. angle of the view screen, at first, took a little getting used to. Though Ike has alluded to it, it is no harder to see than through the Ike housing. In fact I found it easier to use than my friends Ike 990 housing. Since you look slightly down at the camera, it does not block your view. With the Ike housing, especially since it is much bigger than the Aquatica, I find it bothersome to have to place it in front of my face. If you loose your subject in the screen, you can’t simply look up; you have to move the housing down or to the side to re-find your subject. Since I have only been able to compare it to Ike’s 990 housing I can’t comment on how well his 995 controls work. On the Aquatica, all controls are matched in function to the cameras (buttons on the housing, where there are buttons on the camera). The only control I preferred on the Ike housing is the shutter release. It is a lever instead of a button and gives better feel and control. I’m not knocking Ike’s products, I’m just trying to put out info that might be of use.
  14. Taken with a Nikon CP 995 in an Aquatica housing, single Nikon SB-105 strobe. Dive Safe, Rooster [Edited on 5-25-2002 by rooster] [Edited on 5-25-2002 by rooster]
  15. Just got this today. Aquatica housing for the Nikon CP-995. TLC arm parts pilfered from my housed F-100. SB-105 strobe pilfered from my Nik V set up. Will get it wet in the morning. Let you all know how it works out. [Edited on 5-25-2002 by rooster]
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