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Everything posted by JayceeB

  1. I wonder if writing to two cards uses more battery power? Does it take longer to clear the buffer? I would consider this a mandatory setup for weddings, but i've never written to two cards underwater.
  2. Good point. See if you can recreate the problem out of the housing. If you can't, it might be housing control issues.
  3. For troubleshooting, you may have already tried this, but if not, consider: 1. Try a different lens. Same behavior? Hopefully you can recreate the bug above water. 2. Some cameras can be finicky with various memory cards. Have you tried a different card? Given your camera is a high rez Sony, QA likely ran the most test cycles with a Sony Tough Series card for your model.
  4. The downside, in my opinion, with the ikelite + R10 system is you are forced to use sync cords. There is no optical cable option.
  5. Two sales reviews: Bluewater Photo Review: https://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/canon-r7-underwater-review/?mc_cid=fddd27340c&mc_eid=fd9b80e817 Reef Photo Review: https://reefphoto.com/blogs/photography/the-new-canon-r7-in-the-nauticam-housing-just-maybe-the-perfect-compact-set-for-underwater-imaging I too am interested to hear from real world users of the R7, particularly for macro. @Phil Rudin. Is the R7 on your review backlog ?
  6. Thanks for the additional configuration. I guess my focus was on nudibranch sized macro shooting, but I see now that may have been short-sighted.
  7. Point taken. I guess I was just a bit shocked to see it compared to the 60mm.
  8. This lens looks very large. OM-1 + 90mm is approaching the same size and weight as an A7RV + 90mm. A7RV 723 grams (with battery) 90mm 602 grams 79mm x 131mm OM-1 599 grams (with battery) 90mm 453 grams 70mm x 136mm
  9. Thanks for adding your kit. It's nice to hear of another effective setup. I would add it to the poll list, but i'm unsure if i edit the list if the current poll counts will disappear.
  10. Thanks, Tim! Did you ever try a diopter on your D500 + 105mm (for when you really want to hunt for your subject ) for super macro? Looks like we have: 1 vote : OM-1 + 60mm and/or 90mm (when released) Canon R7 + RF100mm Sony A7R5 + 90mm + SMC-1 Nikon D850 + 105mm + SMC-1 1 vote : Nikon D500 + 105mm
  11. Thank you, Wolfgang. My original list of recommendations was: OM-1 + 60mm and/or 90mm (when released) Canon R7 + RF100mm Sony A7R5 + 90mm + SMC-1 Nikon D850 + 105mm + SMC-1 Nikon D500 + 105mm User has no ILC or glass, and doesn’t plan on wide angle, which is why I also considered the DSLRs. AF is at the top of the list with IQ a close second. I have previous experience with an OM-D E-M1 MkII + 60mm, and enjoyed it for macro, but have not used the OM-1. I’m assuming if the OM 90mm tests well underwater, it would have better AF than a FF with a diopter, but maybe I’m mistaken on that fact? I also have experience with the RF100mm, but on an R5 + Inon UCL-90. I shoot more wide angle and a bit of macro, so the R5 makes more sense for me, but since then, the R7 came out which might be a better choice for dedicated macro? Other than that, I have no experience with the other setups.
  12. Folks, I have a friend planning on moving from a TG-6 to an ILC used specifically for underwater macro stills photography only. User of the system is a macro specialist and is looking for class leading auto-focus. User would like this setup to be the last purchase for 3-5 years. User already has optically fired strobes. Typical subjects are nudibranchs and other small subjects 2mm-30mm in length. Blackwater photography represents a very tiny proportion of all shooting. If you were building a system from scratch, what would you recommend in 3 categories: 1. Money no object (within reason...e.g. not Sony A1) 2. Used DSLR 3. Best practical value with high quality output I have given my opinion on MFT vs DSLR FF vs DSLR cropped vs Mirrorless FF vs Mirrorless cropped. There are a lot of choices now, and I'm curious with the release of some of the new Sony FF options and Canon cropped options what the wetpixel community would recommend. Thanks for your help!
  13. Now I just need to find feedback on whether the R5 works with any of the Kenko 1.4x teleconverters + 8-15mm Fisheye. Seems the Kenko TC's are hit and miss with various Camera + Lens configurations. Perhaps I'm asking for trouble stacking an R5+EF-RF Converter+Kenko 1.4x+EF 8-15mm Fisheye.
  14. Thanks, Chris. That helps. Not as much zoom range as I was thinking. I will try it with the actual lens in APS-C mode, as Phil suggested, before investing in a teleconverter. I pick up the lens today, but still need an EF to RF adapter before using it. I'm adding the fisheye to my kit specifically for travel instead of the 230mm dome + rectilinear. I know it's not an equivalent replacement, but understand the tradeoffs and advantages. I will also use it for local shore diving turtle shots.
  15. Brilliant . I'll do that when I receive the lens in a day or two.
  16. Thanks, Chris. Do you think it would be a reasonable test to get a feel for the zoom difference by using my 15-35 rectilinear and seeing the reach difference between 15-21?
  17. Phil, thanks very much for your response. I'm assuming you've probably used the 8-15 with the Kenko 1.4. Any comments on the usefulness of the extended range?
  18. I am looking at adding the Canon 8-15mm Fisheye to my R5 kit. From what I’ve read on this forum, there really isn’t a zoom range, you will either shoot at 8mm for a round effect, or 15mm, but nothing in between. I also understand that to shoot 8mm, you must remove the dome hood. Here are some questions I’m hoping folks with experience with the lens can advise me on: Do I really need a zoom gear, or do most users set it once for the entire dive, particularly considering you have to remove the dome hood for 8mm? If a 1.4x teleconverter is added, what zoom range can be used with no vignetting? In actual use, is this additional zoom range useful? This one might be for Marelux, but what extension is required with the 8-15 + 1.4 teleconverter + EF-RF adapter? I see an entry on the port chart for 8-15 (I’m assuming that compensates for the EF-RF adapter?), but no mention of a teleconverter configuration. And lastly, what make and model 1.4 teleconverter works best with the R5 camera + 8-15 Fisheye? Thank you.
  19. Thanks @TimG , you inspired me. I followed your video link and made two short lanyards to hook my kit to my BC shoulder strap D-rings for shore diving. I modified it slightly by doubling the first step which gives a 4 line wrap on the clips instead of 2 (probably overkill).
  20. Photo of my wife's kit showing multi-purpose clamps on cross-bar.
  21. I believe Ultralight offers clamps with 2 thread sizes: 20-coarse and 28-fine. If buying new, i would go with the 28-fine to give a bit more fine adjustment for the sweet spot where your arms can move, but do not flop around. Perhaps someone who has used both thread sizes can offer hands on feedback? Also, I've used both triple clamps, and Nauticam's Multi-purpose clamp + ball mount(72502) + (72511) to secure a cross arm similar to @Barmaglot, except both ends were secured. The Nauticam clamps worked better for me, because you can leave the cross bar clamped down, and only loosen the clamp holding the arm. With triple clamps, loosening the clamp to adjust the arm also leaves the cross bar loose. Given the Nauticam price increases, I wouldn't go this route now, but in a 'money no object' world, that would be my recommendation.
  22. Size can be misleading. A smaller camera and smaller housing will likely have less buoyancy. By the time you add buoyancy the complete size difference is not significant. I personally would prefer a slightly larger housing with no buoyancy arms than a small camera and housing with large buoyancy arms. I learned this lesson with the Sony A7C.
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