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Everything posted by JayceeB

  1. Appreciate your help, @Draq ...I guess i went off on a tangent on that response
  2. Thanks for your response, Phil. I did see the new 16-35 Sony lens announcement, and it’s great news to hear you mention it will be a good one. So far I have not taken split shots, but that might be something I experiment with later on. The A7C I have been shooting for the past year is serving me well so far, but I know one day an upgrade will occur and that will surely be higher resolution.
  3. I have the WWL-1B mounted with bayonet. The 28-60 port has a focus knob on the left side that prevents the release toggle on the bayonet mount to be installed normally. As a workaround, the bayonet mount, on the port, must be installed upside-down, so the toggle ends up on the right side of the port. The WWL-1B is installed upside down as well. I painted a small white dot on the bottom of the WWL-1B (which faces up) to let me know approximately where to align it when securing the WWL1-B. It takes a bit of time to get it right and secure. You need to do that exercise twice since you take it off the camera, then secure it on a bayonet on the arm. And twice again when you re-install the WWL-1B. I also carry the CMC-1 on the other arm. So to swap CMC-1 for WWL-1B, it takes 4 steps. Remove WWL-1B from port. Install WWL-1B on right arm. Remove CMC-1 from left arm. Install CMC-1 on port. I absolutely make use of this on some dives where I have large sharks and nudibranchs on the same dive, but the nudi has to be outstanding before i'll make this switch.
  4. Thanks, @Draq. I read through Phil Rudin's review on the 16-35 + Nauticam 180. https://www.uwpmag.com/?download=88 Let me check for the Zen content.
  5. Thanks, @Barmaglot . I have actually played around a bit with this. The ability to pull on/off the WWL multiple times on a dive sounds good on paper, but in actuality, for me at least, the activity of taking it off, parking it, then un-parking and re-installing takes some time and isn't something I really even like doing once on a dive
  6. Thanks @Draq. I will look. I have a Sony A7C+28-60+WWL1. Works great for CFWA, but lacks the reach of a 16-35. Considering a 16-35 + dome, but trying to understand what will be gained and lost in this trade. Definitely no decisions made at this point.
  7. Sage advice, Adam. Thank you. I will begin mining the forum for info on this topic now.
  8. I would like to avoid a specialized corrective lens. Stopping down for wide open for reef background shots would probably be my choice. Thanks again for your help.
  9. Thanks for your reply, Chris. I agree that the close focus wide angle reef shot looks extremely distorted in the brightly lit bottom right corner at 17mm / f8. The other 3 corners don't stand out, so I guess it all depends on your subject and background, eh? I noticed @Stillviking 's post "New RF 14-35 f4L, anyone tried?" after posting this one, and took a look at the ikelite review link. Anything with sand in the corners was fine at f4, but anything with reef up close looks unacceptable to me in the corners. I posted this thread because the nauticam charts show 230mm domes as 'preferred', but 180mm domes as an option. I don't need tack sharp corners, but wanted to see what the tradeoff was. I do a lot of shore diving and travel several times a year, so a 230mm glass dome is a headache. Sounds like @ColdDarkDiver has offered to post some test shots, which I look forward to
  10. I would like to learn more about the difference in corner sharpness between a Nauticam 180mm and 230mm dome port when using a 16-35 F4 lens on a FF mirrorless camera. Does anyone have sample images taken with both to see what the sharpness gain gives you with a 230mm dome? Do different camera brands and lens models perform better in a 180mm dome than others? Any guidance or advice would be much appreciated.
  11. Hi Mike, I went down that rabbit hole. Here's my notes on the experience.
  12. I spoke with Reef Photo. They pointed this out. Has anyone tried it on a mounted WWL-1B in the water? https://www.nauticam.com/products/neoprene-cover-for-wwl-1b
  13. I lost my original cap as I didn't have it quite seated when applied. Forked out $113 for a new overpriced cap. Modified the new cap with a bolt snap similar to images shown earlier in this thread. I just lost that one hanging off my BC the first day of a recent trip. I won't be purchasing another one. I have never lost a neoprene dome cover. Neoprene stuffs easily into a BC pocket and works just fine. It's also much more convenient when doing offshore snorkel trips where you're not wearing a BC to clip it to. Not sure why Nauticam went with an overpriced awkward solution like this. I've been using a wetsuit hood to cover the WWL1-B when entering/exiting the water until I can find a proper neoprene cover that fits. Phil Rudin's dome cover photos look to be the best I've seen. Phil, would you mind sharing what brand of 180 mm cover you have?
  14. I am currently using the Sony A7C + Sony 28-60 + CMC-1. Working distance is very short, somewhere in the neighborhood of 37mm, but haven't seen specs published. It is a challenge to light a subject when your lens is nearly pressed up against it. Also, I find that there are many subjects I can't get in close enough to photograph due to structure around the animal. Because of the very short working distance, I'm considering a dedicated 90mm macro lens + diopter. I wish I had purchased the SMC-1 instead of the CMC-1, but at the time, I wasn't aware of the limitations. Given the price difference between the UCL-90 ($320 USD) and SMC-1 ($628), and the additional working distance that the UCL-90 (69mm) provides compared to the SMC-1 (50mm), and purchasing new, does the SMC-1 deliver twice the optical performance? I'm wondering if I could even differentiate the picture clarity between the two? Also, would auto-focus be significantly different between the two diopters?
  15. Good to know the SMC-1 & 2 work on the 28-60, as they aren't listed as compatible on the port chart. In retrospect, I wish I had gone with the SMC-1 as it can be used on both the 28-60 and 90mm.
  16. Thanks, Chris. If my calculations are accurate, the Sigma would have an additional 1cm working distance. I also noticed that the Sigma does not have image stabilization. Not sure if this is required, or if the Sony 90mm image stabilization works in conjunction with the A7C image stabilization. I use back button focus. If the autofocus can get close, i can fine tune by moving the camera in and out. I wonder how the reported autofocus compares to the Oly EM-1 II + 60mm
  17. Hi Chris, I should have been more explicit. I was referring to the Sigma 105mm f/2.8 DG DN Macro Art Lens for Sony E I think that's a different lens than the DXOMark link you sent, no?
  18. I'm currently using the A7C + 28-60 kit lens + CMC-1. It works well if you can get very close to the subject, but in many cases, the subject is positioned in a recess, preventing the shot. For dedicated macro dives, I'm considering adding a macro lens + port to my kit to enable a longer working distance. Does anyone have experience with both the Sony 90mm and Sigma 105mm macro lenses? Thanks.
  19. I'm interested in this same topic. I have the A7C+28-60 Kit lens and use the CMC-1 for macro. Nice and sharp if you can get the lens in close enough, but a lot of missed opportunities due to insufficient working distance, or there's no room to light the subject with one or both strobes. Also considering a dedicated macro lens/port. Considering the Sony 90mm or Sigma 105.
  20. Hi @Blenny84. Thank you All photos are from the Kona coast on the Island of Hawaii.
  21. I finally took the CMC-1 out for a dedicated macro dive today. It performed very well. I missed out on one or two shots because I couldn't get the lens in close enough to focus with a strobe, but generally it worked very well with some practice. I thought I might end needing a dedicated macro lens/port, but so far the CMC-1 seems to be working for my needs. Here's a shot I took of a Wavy Bubble Snail with the 28-60 + CMC-1 today (cropped).
  22. Circling back to the thread title… My original plan was to move from the Olympus OM-D E-M1 II + 8mm, 7-14, 12-40 +multiple ports, to an Olympus OM-D E-M1 II + 14-42 + WWL-1B. The WWL-1B replaced the 8mm and 7-14mm for my needs, but I felt it did not quite replace the 12-40 quality for distant ambient shots. Just my personal observations with no science applied :). I then started considering the Sony A7C with 28-60mm kit lens. My hope was that the improvements in image quality which the Sony combination with WWL-1B would bring, would give me the balance of quality and compact kit I was after. I took a gamble and ordered the new kit. The first few dives with the new setup did not go awesomely. My 2nd and 4th dives resulted in the camera locking up half way through the dive, so I just carried it along for the rest of the dive with a black screen (I added the issue and fix earlier in this thread). Once I got the camera running smoothly (no issues for 20 dives after figuring out the fix), each dive photo shoot progressively became more enjoyable as I became familiar with the controls. For me, the dynamic range is much improved with both the ability to brighten shadows, and darken over exposed shots. Cropping leaves more quality. Auto-focus seems slightly faster, and possibly more accurate. Less focus hunting when subjects in the distance do not contrast much with the background. The full zoom range of the 28-60 + WWL-1B has exceeded the quality and performance I was looking for. I really like this lens. I need more time with the CMC-1 before I can say I’m smitten…understanding there is a learning curve. For the shots I’ve taken (in focus), the sharpness of the shots exceeded what I was expecting. The short working distance may not be a full replacement for a dedicated macro lens, but as I said, I need more time with the CMC-1. The WWL-1B stays on for most of my dives so far. I have removed it underwater a few times, and swapped out the CMC-1, but it’s not an exercise I would do repetitively throughout a dive. For me, I’ll carry the CMC-1 in case I find an awesome macro opportunity I don’t want to miss, otherwise it will be WWL-1B and crop. If I go on a dedicated macro dive, I’d probably leave the WWL-1B at home and just take the CMC-1. For me, the A7C+28-60mm+WWL-1B has been a great upgrade, delivering a high level of quality and performance in a compact kit.
  23. (28-60+WWL-1B) With Strobes: And finally, a few shots taken with strobes using the WWL-1B. The frogfish is an adult nearly the size of a dinner plate.
  24. (28-60+CMC-1) Macro: Here are a couple of examples I took with the CMC-1. I don't have experience with this type of lens, so there were quite a few throw-aways. Included is a seastar shrimp as-shot and cropped, and a redspotted nudibranch.
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