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Everything posted by JayceeB

  1. Thanks, Wolfgang. Give me a bit to formulate my comparison thoughts.
  2. (28-60+WWL-1B) Over exposed as-shot and cropped: Baby Frogfish This frogfish was about 2-3 cm long. I first tried shooting with the CMC-1, but couldn't get my lens in close enough to focus, as the fish was set back in an indentation. Next, I tried shooting with just the 28-60 and no wet lenses, but the minimum working distance for the 28-60 at 60mm is quite large. Next, I tried shooting with the 28-60+WWL-1B...this is what I shot with, and then cropped. I was surprised that a shot this over-exposed could be adjusted to proper exposure. Cropping still left an acceptable level of quality for me.
  3. Here are a few photos taken with the Sony. Distant Ambient Light as-shot and cropped (28-60+WWL-1B): Scalloped Hammerhead Not a great shot, but it's only the second one i've seen, so i'll keep it, regardless of quality. I was impressed that the camera could achieve auto-focus with the dark shark against a dark blue background.
  4. One item to note. I had issues with the A7C on two of the first 4 dives. On the second dive of each day (not sure if this is important or not), the camera would lock up half way through the dive with a ‘Writing to Card. Please wait…’. Turning the camera on/off underwater didn’t fix it. I had to remove the battery and replace to get it to stop after the dive. I made 2 changes, that seem to have fixed this issue. I’m not sure if they are both required, but configuration options are: 1. Changed File Format=RAW (uncompressed) + JPEG to File Format=RAW (uncompressed). 2. Changed Finder/Monitor=Auto to Finder/Monitor=Manual. (Thanks, Phil Burghard, for this suggestion).
  5. Yes, I have a CMC-1. Have not yet decided how best to carry it. Right now I just throw it in my BC pocket. I could mount it on the cross bar, but if you want to trade WWL-1 for CMC-1, there's an awkward moment where both lenses are unmounted. I may end up using 70x200mm float arms with a bayonet adapter on one instead of the stix.
  6. And this shows my complete kit. The 200mm cross-bar mount for the WWL-1B works very well, and keeps your strobe arms clear and light. Might be worth trying a 70x200mm float arm for the cross-bar as the entire kit still needs a bit more buoyancy. As you can see, I only have single 200mm arms for strobe mounts to keep the kit compact. Double arms would give more room for additional stix.
  7. Here are two pictures showing the Olympus+12-40+7" dome on the left and Sony+28-60+WWL-1B on the right. (**Note: 1lb weight velcro'd to the bottom of the 7" dome for trim on the left).
  8. Thanks, Waterpixel. That helps. The port ships with the focus knob uninstalled. I left it off.
  9. Nauticam Housing Notes for the Sony: Sony on/off button on housing is more robust than the Olympus, and you don’t need to lift the housing switch up before removing the camera like you do the Olympus. Sony Nauticam housing tray does not overlap the camera battery cover, so you never need to remove it. Olympus tray has to be removed from the camera every time you change the battery. Sony is slightly easier to load tray into the housing, as it does not sit as deep in. The Olympus housing has a top ball mounting hole, which is where I had my focus light mounted. The Sony housing does not have this mounting hole, so I moved my focus light ball to the plastic hot-shoe mount on the lens port, which isn’t quite as rigid. Sony housing has more robust fiber optic ports on the housing, but you have to purchase Nauticam Optical Fiber Connectors ($27) to use standard fiber optic cables. Olympus housing does not require this. The Sony nauticam flash trigger has an on/off switch that must be turned on with the housing open. The Olympus doesn’t require this when using the kit flash to fire strobes. I used to prepare my camera the night before for early morning dives, including turning on the leak detector and vacuum pumping. The green leak detection led light doesn’t seem to draw much power, as I haven’t noticed substantial battery drain doing this. I’m not sure I can do this now, as the nauticam flash trigger will be on all night inside the housing (it has a blinking green light to signal that it is ‘on’). Will have to test it out. Anyone have experience leaving the Nauticam flash trigger on overnight? Most pictures you see of the Nauticam with 28-60 lens show the focus knob installed on the port. This is optional, so I left it off until I decide whether a manual focus gear is required.
  10. Here are a few photos comparing the size of the Nauticam housings. Olympus on the left. Sony on the right.
  11. Thanks, Chris. I have a few odds and ends left to collect. An extra battery and separate charger were on that list. I use Nitecore for other batteries. They also make a double for Sony FZ-100 batteries: Nitecore USN4PRO for Sony NP-FZ100 I was thinking of the Nitecore unless anyone cautions against non-Sony chargers.
  12. Camera Body Notes: The Olympus feels less 'plastic-y' and more ergonometric for land use than the Sony. I only plan to use the Sony underwater, so this isn't important to me. Sony EVF is on the far left. I frame with my right eye, so took a bit of getting used to, but now i don't notice it. Sony EVF is smaller than the Olympus. Almost too small to track small fish darting around in a larger frame. Macro I can still manage viewing focus, just barely. You can’t turn off fill flash on the Sony in Manual mode. This means you need to turn off the strobes when shooting with ambient light. I shoot with 2 custom dials set up. One for flash. One for ambient. The Olympus ambient dial has flash turned off, so I can leave my strobes on. The Sony ambient custom dial doesn’t allow this, so you need to actually turn your strobes off to ensure they don’t fire when shooting ambient. Maybe I haven't figured this one out yet. If any Sony users have tips, please share. Sony 28-60 doesn’t stop when you zoom all the way out, so you end up retracting the lens if you keep going, which causes a warning sign to appear on the screen. I did this a few times on the first couple of dives while in the housing, but have gotten used to it now. Sony does not come with a battery charger. Charging is via USB-C cable (which is included). Sony doesn’t charge with the USB-C cable if camera is ‘On’. I’ve made this mistake a couple of times, went to load my camera, but had to wait to charge it again in ‘Off’ position. Again, if any Sony users have tips, please share.
  13. I've had the Sony kit for a few weeks now, and have been jotting down a few notes. This is not an equipment review but rather my experience moving from the Olympus OM-D E-M1 II in a Nauticam housing with dedicated lenses and ports/domes to the Sony A7C in a Nauticam housing with the 28-60mm kit lens, WWL-1B and CMC-1. Here are a couple of photos of the Olympus on the left and Sony on the right. The Sony has a Nauticam flash trigger mounted on the hotshoe.
  14. New Kit arrives in a week or so. Will report back to this thread on my experiences.
  15. Thank you all for insightful feedback on equipment and technique. You brought forward some considerations I hadn’t thought of, and your responses are much appreciated. I’ve decided to proceed with the A7C + 28-60 + WWL. I’ll use the A7C kit for a month or so to confirm if the performance enhancements balance the limitations of full-frame. If the A7C works out for me, as I hope, I’ll keep it and sell my Olympus kit. If the A7C does not work out for me, I’ll sell the A7C kit and upgrade to a Zen 170 dome for the 12-40. I consider this a learning exercise with no wrong result...albeit an expensive learning exercise
  16. Two more test shots from today with the WWL-1 back on. Seemed to work a little better, but still doesn't feel quite as responsive or sharp as my 12-40, but not as far off as the testing from last week. Maybe it's not technically correct, but I still enjoy taking some wide angle ambient light shots further than 15' away. 3rd shot as an example. I know no lens/port/camera combination will give a sharp capture in these conditions, just trying to get the best I can with a single wet lens combination.
  17. Thanks, @Stuartv. Definitely a good consideration, and still more compact than a regular ff + dome.
  18. Thanks for your insight, Phil. In your opinion, would the A7C+28-60+WWL-1 give at least the same sharpness and auto-focus as the E-M1 II + 12-40 PRO when fully zoomed in?
  19. The size and weight of the two housings is very similar (based on specs from the Nauticam website). I'm assuming the cameras, lenses and ports would be similar in size and weight. WWL-1B is 3lbs. Olympus Weight 1.95kg Dimensions 305mm (W) × 175mm (H) × 116mm (D) Sony Dimensions 307mm (W) x 172mm (H) x 103mm(D) Weight (in air) 1.78kg
  20. Thanks for your perspective, Hyp. Probably sage advice. I try and get as close as possible to underwater subjects, but sometimes that just isn't possible. In those cases, I still like to have a record of what I encountered on the dive, even if it isn't a 'framer'. WACP is a bit beyond my budget. I'll reconsider a glass dome though in the equation. My goal is to reduce my kit with the WWL, while still retaining or exceeding the quality i'm getting with the Oly 12-40...maybe that's not possible.
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