Dann-Oh

Yep, that would also be my recommendation. I have finally decided to sell my EPL10 + Housing (with kit 14-42 lens) and Backscatter MF1 strobe and snoot. With a young and growing family I just don't get to dive for photography enough to justify keeping the camera.

This is the main reason I am keeping my Micro4/3 gear. I dont see the improvment in MY photography from getting a larger sensor camera. I have a Backscatter MF1+ snoot that has never been wet if your interested in it let me know.

I would also recommend trying to dive with your wife's camera a few time before you buy it. The biggest thing I enjoy abouy my EPL10 is that it forces me to pick macro or wide angle type of photography before the dive. I was getting poor images when trying to photograph both types of images on the same dive. Where are you located? I might be putting my EPL10 kit up for sale in the near future as I dont have the time availability to dive often enough to justify an underwater rig. Shoot me a PM, if intrested.

I have the EPL10 for underwater photography and the EM1-3 for topside (I also have the EM5-3 for topside but I don't like it). I cant justify the cost of replacement for the EM1-3 should I flood the housing. The EPL10 is a pretty nice entry point into photography I really enjoy using it. Honestly, I'm thinking about putting my EM5-3, EPL10 and kit lens, EPL10 housing, and 2x backscatter MF- strobes up for sale. I just don't use the kit often enough anymore to justify keeping an underwater camera rig.

If you do decide to get the Backscatter MF1, I have 1x MF1 plus snoot that Im looking to part way with. Its a great strobe for macro but I got a set of Inon Z330s recently that I will be using when I get back into photography.

I learned in a jacket style, then bought a used back inflate, then bought a BP+W, then went to sidemount. I love sidemount, I dive sidemount when I can, which is every dive I'm not with an OW class, which I use my BP+W for. I currently dive both LP50s and LP72s, I'm looking to get HP100s for deeper tech diving then I can use my LP50s for decompression gases. One thing to keep in mind with a BP+W is that you will have to add on pockets for "stuff" if you wish to have pockets. Most back inflate BCDs have accessory pouches. Everyone is different, many here will say sidemount isn't good for photography but I'm the type of person who photographs while diving (vs the person who dives to photograph) so I need my diving kit to be the most efficient.

awesome video. Truk has recently made it to my bucket list of destinations to go to.

Double check that you can actually install the lens onto the camera and also remove the lens from the camera when in the housing. The EPL10 housing does not have a lens release button on it like the EM1-3 or OM-1 housings do.

I have a backscatter MF1 kit that I am looking to sell. I have not posted it here yet. Backscatter MF-1, OS-1 (snoot) , 1x 18650 battery, and 2-slot Battery Charger.

I had the RX100Va but then I upgraded to the Olympus PEN EPL10. I think you might be better off lookin to changing out your EM1 for the EPL10 and then get what ever you want for topside photography,

Phil, Do you by chance have a write-up on the Anglerfish and how to use it? I can seem to wrap my head around it.

When freediving I am wearing a rubberized weight belt, I will attach something similar to the items (1) and (2) linked below to my weight belt. I have a much nicer version of the item linked in (3) that I can attach to my camera housing and my attachment point. This gives me places to clip things off to. I like having the camera attached at my waist because I can drop it in an emergency to rescue my dive buddy from a SWBO without completely loosing my camera. (1) https://www.piranhadivemfg.com/item/Slip-On-Webbing-LONG-D-Ring-Bent-w-Teeth-15414 (2) https://www.piranhadivemfg.com/item/Slip-on-Webbing-Tri-Glide-w-End-Loop-Select-Version-15380 (3) https://www.amazon.com/Scuba-Choice-Diving-Lanyard-Buckles/dp/B00PVQQQGA/ref=asc_df_B00PVQQQGA/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241946017885&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3934055597925366734&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031244&hvtargid=pla-564079146701&psc=1 Also, If you haven't taken a freediving level 1 class I HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend it, even to experienced scuba divers it is a very beneficial course.

The base ISO is 200 for my camera. ill probably set it to 200 - 400 and then leave it there for the day.

@Phil Rudin and @Alex_Mustard Do you have any tips on how to trigger the strobes being so far away from the camera? I will be reviewing Photography Masterclass later tonight and this week.

There are two schools of thought, (1) most people are using the exposure triangle for ambient light photography and (2) using the exposure diamond for flash/strobe photography. There are a lot of people who are afraid to raise their ISO for fear of image degradation. I have used ISO as high as 8,000 on my Olympus EM1-3 without fear, this past new years eve my kid was playing with his cousins and the dogs in the backyard and I needed to use a high iso to freeze the motion and guess what I was able to get some pretty good images for family use. I use On1 Photo Raw to edit my images and it has a noise reduction plug in that works really well.

Awesome video. Would you be able to share what lights you are using for this setup? I'm guessing they are VERY nice since your using a RED camera, haha.

I bought the below kit near the beginning of covid to practice underwater photography. Welp, I still haven't used it as I spent most of my dive working as a DM and not really using my camera. I'm really looking forward to this year of getting some fun dives in for personal enjoyment and skills development.

No honey, THESE Legos are defiantly for the kid(s).

Yes I agree, get a second strobe. then use the money you saved on not buying the camera housing to get out and actually use your camera.

I'm using On1 Photo Raw. I use it for as a replacement for Lightroom, I never really used Photoshop so it seemed silly to pay for it.

Here is the link: https://www.backscatter.com/reviews/post/Best-Underwater-Macro-Strobe-Backscatter-Mini-Flash-MF-2

Here is the link to the review article so you can find out if the new features are worth it for YOU to upgrade. https://www.backscatter.com/reviews/post/Best-Underwater-Macro-Strobe-Backscatter-Mini-Flash-MF-2 The MF1 takes 18650 batteries and the MF2 takes 21700. It just so happens that the 21700 battery is the same battery that is in the backscatter MW4300 video light. That makes it nicer for people using the MW4300. I personally have grabbed the wrong battery 1x or 2x times as I use both the MF1 and MW4300.

I have the Turbo Tec Boots on my drysuit. I am using the ScubaPro Nova fins in a size XL for my drysuit. When Im in m wetsuit I use the OMS SlipStream fin in a size L. Both are white for visibility.

Brett, I was on your site this afternoon looking around with hoping to find an example of your workflow. I'm just worried it might be tough for me at my current skill set (OC Air Recreational limits). I worry about bottom time and the need for multiple dives as I don't know anyone with a boat to get out to the Midnight Hour, or any site regularly for that matter. I think starting out with a portion of the boat would be a good starting point. What would you recommend for lens choice? I'm using micro3/4 and have access to 8mmf3.5 fisheye, 14-42mm f3.5-5.6 , 30mm f3.5 macro, 60mm f2.8 macro.

Hey all, I have been following along on Becky Kagan Schott's photogrammetry journey of the Cornelia B Windiate via Instagram. I am wondering if anyone here can help answer some basic questions. How small of a boat is considered too small? I am interested in trying to make a project out of the boat "midnight hour" which was a squid fishing boat that got greedy and tried to haul in more than it could support and capsized and sank. I think this is a super cool and unique idea but I have no idea where to start.