Dann-Oh

I do not believe so as the water will drain out when you move from the dunk tank to the exit of the boat. this will cause the need for another burp once you are in the water.

Hey there, I am just now seeing this response. Yes I still have the Kraken Hydra 5000. However I need to clarify I only have 1 battery for this light.

To bring back a post from the dead, but is there anyone who would be able to provide the photos that have been missing from the posts here? I am looking to make a shutter release cable for my housing AOI EPL10 and I am struggling with some visuals.

PM sent for Arms.

What camera are you using for this video? it looks awesome, one day ill make it up to the northern islands; I still feel like I have so much to explore at Catalina.

@BarmaglotCould you by chance share what brand your triple clamp is? I want to do something similar as your cross bar for my floats. I am currently using my cold shoe for primary dive light. I just realized I don't have any photos of my new setup completely built. I'm using 4x jumbo stix floats (2x on each side) and the rig is still a little negative but I dontt always use two strobes or both arms, so the cross arm is an idea that I have been toying with. Also how do you like having your computer on your cross arm vs on your wrist? are you worried about possibly losing your camera in surf or surge and also losing your computer? @sinetwo I'm not trying to hijack your thread I also have desire to build a tripod for my camera rig.

I might be interested, where are you/the strobes located? Do you have the ball end adapters for them?

Can you compare these clamps to something like a Ultralight Controls clamp? Im also looking into putting a tripod onto my kit and dont want to waste money on a cheap set up.

Oh man, I'm going to have to look this up. I think this might be just the thing I am looking to use for a different purpose, one of my goals is to get a great image of a Blue Banded Goby (aka Catalina Goby) but they are super skittish as well. Every time I get close they dart into the substrate.

The EPL10 has an option to shoot in RAW + Jpeg, this might be the best option for you at this point in time. you get your JPEG now for photo sharing, you have a RAW that you can play with in post and also revisit it later when you learn how to edit.

Are you using the dome shade for the housing? If so, I know the seafrog's shade can rotate around the dome so maybe try rotating it?

Im looking to add a gorilla pod to my underwater kit (Olympus EPL10 and Backscatter MF1 strobes). I am wondering what size gorilla pod you guys use? The Gorilla pod comes in a 1kg, 3kg , and a 5kg weight limit. I am thinking about getting the 3kg just incase I decide to use it above water, what do you guys think?

I agree as well. Im going to use that money for actually going diving and completing my Dive Master. edit: I should also point out that I already own the EM5 mark 3 (and the EM1 mark 3 but the housing costs are too great for the EM1 mark 3)

Okay, so then there really isnt not a reason to invest into the new housing for the EM5-3. there is a little bit better internal stabilization and a few more mega pixels. thanks.

Hey All, I am currently using the Olympus EPL10 inside the AOI housing. I also have an Olympus EM5 mark 3 I am wondering if there is any benefit to look into putting this camera in an AOI housing. I understand that I would likely need to buy new ports for this housing (but ill be able to use the 60mm macro and 8mm fisheye from my EPL10). I cant really tell by looking at the camera specs if there is any real benefit; I understand the max flash sync speed is the same (1/250th). Any advice would be appreciated.

Do you have a moisture sensor on your system? Could it be that the temp change is causing condensation and setting off your moisture sensor? Just a shot in the dark.

I have the DB-808 (1" float arms from ULCS) and I don't really like them they don't really offer that much buoyance. IF I could trade someone both of my 8 inch arms for a set of jumbo floats Id do it in a quick second.

if you want o upgrade from the gopro Id recommend the TG-6 for a point and shoot camera about $400 for camera and $2-300 for the housing and your set for a long while. If you want to get a great and inexpensive mirrorless camera you could look at the Olympus EPL10, camera is about $650 and the AOI housing is about $650 for $1300 your set up for a long while as well.

If you can get the RX100 before hand to practice with it I would totally recommend that camera; it would be a great camera to document your activities above and below water. If not I would say the GoPro would be the next best thing since they are so easy to operate.

Sorry to have hijacked this thread, ill keep it to the OPs original topic.

For me the long working distance of the 60mm can be an issue as I do mostly shore diving so there is lots of particulate in the water column which can be seen with the 60mm but are minimized with the 8mm. See attached images for examples, not particularly good examples though. The dome port was nearly touching thee creatures while using the 8mm fisheye and it still looks like there is plenty of rom to get closer. I don't really have the issue of not acquiring focus but more so of composition. I am still at the phase where I would like to capture a full body image of a Spanish Shawl, for example, and not a tight image of its rinophores and "face". It also turns out I enjoy making CFWA images more than tight macro images at the moment.

I'm not disagreeing, But I currently own a set of the Backscatter MF1 strobes, I was hoping the Q1 would be an inexpensive solution for wide angle, but apparently not.

I spoke with the guys over at Backscatter and they said the Backscatter MF-1 and the AOI UCS Q1 ae VERY similar in performance. the faster recycle times and slightly more power output is due to the second 18650 battery (the MF-1 only has 1 battery and the Q1 has 2).

How does this compare to the Backscatter MF-1? I'm wondering if this strobe will be easier to fire with cameras that have the red led flash triggers. My EPL10 has a hard time triggering the Backscatter MF-1 strobes, but that might be my choice in cheap cables.

Do you by chance have any images that you could share comparing the two ports?