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About andywillett

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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    United Kingdom
  • Interests
    Underwater photography, have been diving over 35 years, Padi Instructor.

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United Kingdom
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus EM1 mk2
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    sea sea DS2
  • Accessories
    8mm fish eye, 60mm macro, 14-42 stock, inon H100/dome, inon UCL165
  • Industry Affiliation

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178 profile views
  1. Hi Chris, the upside of the new WWl-1b version is that it has a integrated float collar, and 120 gram weight I can live with quite easy I've taken off the Inon FE underwater (LD) but as you say bit of a faff, only done when I really feel the urge. I want the Zoom through capability very versatile.
  2. Thanks for the info, I have INON 67mm and LD already, was looking at moving from Inon H100/dome to the new wide angle Nauticam WWl-1b, hence require conversion of my 67mm Inon UCL-165's so I can swop easy mid dive. The Inons UCL_165 are flat at the tread interface, I think the Nauticam SMC CMC lenses protrude a little at the rear, Im assuming I just zoom past the vignetting, Zooming in anyway for macro. Kind Regards
  3. Does any one have experience of using a Nauticam bayonet converter (normally to convert SMC CMC 67mm macro to bayonet mount) and used it with a INON UCL-165 67mm macro? Ill assume the Inon lens would (if it fits) be slightly further forwards by a tad Any thoughts any one? Kind Regards
  4. The subject of ambient video filters has been covered by a number of photographers, Circling around similar conclusions. My findings are . Top brand filters are not mandatory Try a propriety filter brand so to keep consistency, I use Kood, more affordable to experiment with. I use lee filter gels also, especially to find a matching filter for the video lamp (has to match the lens filter) Kood make a wide range of filter sizes that can be taken apart and used in front of your camera sensor. IE when using fish eye lenses. Filter gels are cheap, But select very carefully unblemished section to cut for use on camera. The video/strobe light gel is far less important in regards to blemishes. Lee gels will only be similar to proprietary filter colours. But close enough, with differences that are easily post corrected anyway. .Always use latex (or similar) finger cots when handling camera/lens filters to keep clean (fingers are oily). Regards
  5. I have used the cheap Chinese lamps for a a while now, and had fair results, I have tried adding warming gels to them (added a minus green to correct a green cast) all work well. I also use ambient filters with them. Have a look at my article and you can see what I've been doing. All low budget. http://underwaterwillett.com/ambient filters.html
  6. Have you tried setting up the strobe, there is a program function on the d2 to adjust sync , not had to use it, its in the manual
  7. Hi I've since found Lee Pale Green 138 to be slightly better. have a look at my article. http://underwaterwillett.com/ambient filters.html I've glued step up rings onto the front of my video lamps, they then have 67mm threads on the front, I put a gel behind a UV filter to hold the gel in place, drilled small holes in step up ring so air trickles out. ( or just unscrew at start of dive to fully flood it. PM me This video used ambient filters This video was using ambient filters on the lights.
  8. Hi I use YSD1 and YSD2 using a 10 bar internal laser guided snoot. works fine for me.
  9. I have a sea sea YSd1 and two YSD2J. no issues at all. the YSd1 is quite old now.
  10. Hi I use a laser guided snoot, works well and you can just see the laser in bright sunlight. The laser turns off when firing. The laser wants to be a internal laser so its shows where the strobe light will be. Andy
  11. hi Joanna, use a 10 bar laser snoot, the one I have is the better version with a Internal laser that emits a straight out of the snoot port. This is the one you want, not the external laser version. I have another snoot without laser and I find there is no alignment issue with the focus light, under standing the snoot is close to the macro subject anyway.
  12. I have taken on board various posts about using ambient filters on underwater strobes/video lamps. I have had reasonable success, and have highlighted my finding on my article. Here is a link http://underwaterwillett.com/ambient filters.html Please feel free to contact me for discussions or about your findings that you may wish to share etc.
  13. I put a Lee warming Gel behind my Sea Sea Diffuser.
  14. Hi, I have started experiments using Lee filter gels, I read Intercepter121's excellent write up on the subject. Taking the above as a start, I acquired a Lee filter sample set (designer edition) , and compared the gels with some commercial underwater camera lens filters. I found by experiment the nearest lee filter that was opposite to my camera filters, so I could add to my video lamps. That worked well. So once I had the video light gel, I reverse engineered the opposite lee filter that was visually very similar to the camera purchased filters. I have tried and used a 58mm Kood magenta filter (sold for green water correction) on my Gopro (easier to play with for now) and matched it to a Lee Plus Green 244. With that on the video Lamp and Kood Magenta on the camera, it worked well in practice. (I use this currently) I have so far left the GoPro on auto white balance, This tends to jump a lot so i will set GoPro to protune and dial in say daylight 5600k. The nearest Lee (Magenta type colour) to match the Kood magenta that I could find, is Lee Pretty N Pink 794. This is very slightly more dense than the kood. This means the Lee Plus Green 244 wasn't quite correct to balance for ambient. The Lee Pale Green 138 matches the Lee Pretty N pink 794 spot on. So next dive Ill try Lee Pretty N Pink 794 on camera, and Lee Pale Green 138 on video lamp. As it is slightly more dense , Ill have to see how it fairs in real sea water environment. Understanding the "green" in UK water varies, I hope it will not be a issue, perhaps better? My starting point was to use a commercial U/W camera filter, this got me into approx the right colour correction place. I made up gel holders using two 67mm UV fliters and put the gel between them. Drilled vent holes so they flood ok. The filter screw onto my lamps. I fixed 67mm mounts onto the lamps. The gels work ok in sea water, no issues. The camera lens gel goes behind the camera lens or in-front depending. I have done the same for blue water, and will verify my Lee filter colours on next trip when ever that is. Hope that helps. Pic shows the camera Kood 58mm magenta, and the lamp green Lee Plus Green 244
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