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andywillett

Member
  • Content Count

    39
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  • Last visited

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About andywillett

  • Rank
    Triggerfish

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United Kingdom
  • Interests
    Underwater photography, have been diving over 35 years, Padi Instructor.

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    seaurchindivers@hotmail.co.uk

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United Kingdom
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus EM1 mk2
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    sea sea DS2
  • Accessories
    8mm fish eye, 60mm macro, 14-42 stock, inon H100/dome, inon UCL165
  • Industry Affiliation
    PADI

Recent Profile Visitors

286 profile views
  1. Hi Draq, did you find any worth while difference between the 14-42EZ and the Pani 14-42mm Mk2 ?? Im using the WWL-1B with the Oly 14-42EZ.
  2. Hi thank you, I guessed it was just a limitation of options Just checking just in case I was missing something or there was a work around i could try. Thank you
  3. Hi all Can any one help, I've set my rear button focus (video) on my Olympus EM1mk2 and also have set the front button to SAF. I can update the focus by either button, all good so far However if I turn on Peaking, the peaking has to be turned on every time I use back button focus, but the peaking stays on with the front release. Any ideas why this is? Kind Regards Andy
  4. I normally allow two extra pumps. I've left it on unopened for a day and held vacuum. The more you over pump, the more away from the switch point you are. IF there was a small leak, it would take longer to leak up and activate the alarm. If you only just flip in to green and stop, you risk temperature variations that can change the pressure and trip the alarm. So a little bit over pumped would normally be required. Try it with one over pump and leave it for a few hours and see, if ok then when do it again when cold, let housing warm up a bit (pressure will rise slightly) and see if it trips. You are just seeing how sensitive it is, then you know. Always keep in mind, however small, there is always a small leak, it may take days to alarm but it is there. (that's just background info)
  5. I have one D1 and and two D2 strobes. However I only ever use manual and they have all been very reliable. It is generally thought from all me findings manual is best any way. Two strobes are often on different powers anyway. personally I cant see myself ever using TTL. But that's just me. Best of luck with playing with manual settings. PS if you are doing any wide angle and balancing existing light you will be using manual anyway.
  6. I have made all my strobe optic cables, Stanley knife for a clean cut, You can buy of internet wider optic cables for more light transmission 3mm, stronger but more clumsy. I have bought cheap rubber mounded bungs at 10p each for the ends, melt hole through, works great. If your not sure how to buy optic cable, buy some optic audio sets and cut the connectors off. Not sure if I can post this link? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264763684342 You can glue the optic cable in place to be firm, A size 7mm
  7. Hi Chris, the upside of the new WWl-1b version is that it has a integrated float collar, and 120 gram weight I can live with quite easy I've taken off the Inon FE underwater (LD) but as you say bit of a faff, only done when I really feel the urge. I want the Zoom through capability very versatile.
  8. Thanks for the info, I have INON 67mm and LD already, was looking at moving from Inon H100/dome to the new wide angle Nauticam WWl-1b, hence require conversion of my 67mm Inon UCL-165's so I can swop easy mid dive. The Inons UCL_165 are flat at the tread interface, I think the Nauticam SMC CMC lenses protrude a little at the rear, Im assuming I just zoom past the vignetting, Zooming in anyway for macro. Kind Regards
  9. Does any one have experience of using a Nauticam bayonet converter (normally to convert SMC CMC 67mm macro to bayonet mount) and used it with a INON UCL-165 67mm macro? Ill assume the Inon lens would (if it fits) be slightly further forwards by a tad Any thoughts any one? Kind Regards
  10. The subject of ambient video filters has been covered by a number of photographers, Circling around similar conclusions. My findings are . Top brand filters are not mandatory Try a propriety filter brand so to keep consistency, I use Kood, more affordable to experiment with. I use lee filter gels also, especially to find a matching filter for the video lamp (has to match the lens filter) Kood make a wide range of filter sizes that can be taken apart and used in front of your camera sensor. IE when using fish eye lenses. Filter gels are cheap, But select very carefully unblemished section to cut for use on camera. The video/strobe light gel is far less important in regards to blemishes. Lee gels will only be similar to proprietary filter colours. But close enough, with differences that are easily post corrected anyway. .Always use latex (or similar) finger cots when handling camera/lens filters to keep clean (fingers are oily). Regards
  11. I have used the cheap Chinese lamps for a a while now, and had fair results, I have tried adding warming gels to them (added a minus green to correct a green cast) all work well. I also use ambient filters with them. Have a look at my article and you can see what I've been doing. All low budget. http://underwaterwillett.com/ambient filters.html
  12. Have you tried setting up the strobe, there is a program function on the d2 to adjust sync , not had to use it, its in the manual
  13. Hi I've since found Lee Pale Green 138 to be slightly better. have a look at my article. http://underwaterwillett.com/ambient filters.html I've glued step up rings onto the front of my video lamps, they then have 67mm threads on the front, I put a gel behind a UV filter to hold the gel in place, drilled small holes in step up ring so air trickles out. ( or just unscrew at start of dive to fully flood it. PM me This video used ambient filters This video was using ambient filters on the lights.
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