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About lostloki

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    Sea Nettle

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  1. So far eveything option is standard wide angle but there is also the option of the Sigma Fisheye 15mm 2.8mm with a Sigma MC-11 adapter. This uses the 4.3in Nauticam port and makes for a very compact rig and not that heavy. I use it on my A7c and have come to love the small size and quality. The port also works with the Tamaron 17-28mm f2.8 natively if shooting at smaller apetures.
  2. I run the SUPE tray on my FA6500 as I have tried others and this seem the most adaptive
  3. I got it to run on my A6500, due to covid haven't had much use of it underwater but where I have haven't had too many issues. I also have a Sony 90mm, and the 60mm is much more forgiving and seems to hunt less. if you can wait, over the next few weeks to should get some use from the 60mm in the lovely crystal clear waters of the English channel... so very similar to blackwater...
  4. Have you considered the canon 60mm 2.8 macro on an adaptor? I found it focus's well, and is pretty easy to get hold of. Fully capable of adding diopters to as well?
  5. Unfortunately the Canon 60mm EF-S's plastic fitting at the camera end seem to stick out too far which means the MC-11 cannot mount it. To explain it better Signam and many 3rd party lenses have the electronic connectors almost flush with the end of the lens, the native ef-s lenses extend out further with a plastic ring. The ring means it won't mate with the Sigma adapter. However I have heard of people removing the plastic ring from their EF-S lenses to get the to fit, but didn't want to go down that route, and as said it works fine with the cheapo adapter as there is no zoom needed.
  6. I run a A6500 and got myself both a Sony 90mm 2.8 Macro and Canon 60mm 2.8 EF-S Marco with an adapter for it. Due to Covid my underwater experience with either has been limited however.... From topside I can report the Canon 60mm 2.8 is easier to use, and the 90mm has a longer curve to get used to, but both very good lenses.. There is also a good price benefit of the 60mm in that is can usually be picked up 2nd hand and due to it not needing any zoom complications works with cheapo adapters, I use my MC-11 on my Tokina 10-17 and a Fotodiox adapter on my Canon 60mm macro and doesn't seem to affect the performance. I originally looked at the Sony 50mm and there weren't that many positive reviews compared to the Canon 60mm. It fits my housing, although is only Autofocus, but with back button focus and the usual techniques works fine on my limited beneath the waves. The 16-50mm with wet lenses also works and actually better than expected, but with limitations. I used it for my first trips with the camera and found it acceptable but really not a huge step up from a good compact set up. The dedicated lenses are.
  7. I had the same issue of not firing YS-D2j's or a Backscatter mini with a LED flash trigger and commercially available fibre cords... So in the end bought flexible 3mm fibre and some connectors and they work every time now, admittedly I don't shoot TTL nor a flexible as single/multi core cables, but on the plus side they are about 1/8 the cost of commerical fibre cords.. However I am also in the process of trialing different LED bulbs from those supplied with the trigger to see if I can get more bang from the trigger, again this probably won't work with TTL.
  8. Welcome to the Sonyside.... I have a FA6500 and YS-D2js so will cover some of that first. I use the LED trigger as the inbuild flash will only sync to 1/160 sec, the trigger gives you 1/250sec... However.. I'm interested if the YS-D3 has an improved sensor as I found the sensor with the LED flash trigger and commerical fibre optic cables to be unreliable to say the best!! I've tried multiple cables from top end to cheapo's and various thread counts.. the most realiable option was to make my own out of 2/3mm side light fibre (also about 1/10 the cost of most cables)... This allow me to be sure the strobes fire. Commerical cables mostly work with the internal flash but limits the sync speed and burns far more battery. If you go the sync cable route you will obviously need the cables and the hotshoe controller, which will add to you budget considerably, and Fantasea I don't believe do one so it will be third party. I thought of sync cables, but also have a backscatter snnot stobe and that's fibre only. I use the Tonika 10-17 for wide angle and it works really well.. I run the Sea and Sea acrylic dome which is slightly lighter and larger than the Fantasea one, but also bought float arms but they are pretty float with a dome on (i.e. positively bouyant), there is a lot of air space with the port and extension ring (I run the 20L extension but thats for the 10-17mm or my 90mm Macro). The float arms I mainly find useful with the 90mm as its a beast, or if I use the kit and my old UWL-09F wide angle, then they help. The mix of 8 and 5 inch arms should work fine, and I'd buy the Dome Diffusers later as they come with 100 and 120 ones. I would also recommend you get the standard kit lens set from Fantasea as it can also be a good way to get into the base macro and is pretty cheap. I hope this helps
  9. I dive with a Sony 6500 and Tokina 10-17 (canon fit) on a Sigma MC-11 adaptor (this is about 1/2 the price of the Metabones and the same size). I've had no issues with this set up, the Tokina is the go to lens for APS-C and the Sigma adpator works well with this lens. It also provides a much more flexible solution than the Sony 16mm. I hope this helps
  10. Hi Joel You should also heck the zoom control on the housing as it is usually a spring setting lever, If the spring gets stuck or jumps its mount(usually outside the housing) it will cause the camera to be either always zoomed out or zoomed in, depending on the housing, and you can't override this unlise you reseat the spring (usually easily enough as its mounted on the underside of some zoom levers on compacts housings. I've had it before were it works fine on land and the first 1 or times underwater then the spring jumps and you can't do much with the camera until you realise and reset the spring, then it is back to normal, but those few minutes while you swear at the camera through your reg are wasted.
  11. I've not had experience of the Nauticam set up, but the Fantasea set up seems lighter, the actual buisiness end of the marco and for me wild angle ports are Sea and Sea running on the Fantasea FNX55G Connector port. Using a standard Sea and Sea port also lets me switch between the Sony 90 and a Canon 60mm macro I have (I could also fit the 100mm Canon macro if I had one). Its been pretty fine so far the 90mm was supposed to be out in Lembeh the other month but Covid stopped that. I would say Fantasea could do a better job with the pin wheel to drive the focus cog in the FNX-55G, but then all housings have their issues. But this is my 3rd Fantasea housing for various cameras and their customer service is very good, their products do what they say and at a resonable price and weight (espeically important when travelling or lugging it from the car to the boat). As an aside if you fancy using the Canon macro lenses you don't seem to need a high end Sony to Canon adaptor, the cheaper ones work well as there is no zoom to change the settings. Howeevr for my Tonika 10-17 I use a Sigma MC-11
  12. Sorry for bringing this up very late, but my Fantasea LED trigger does fire my Sea and Sea YS-D2J's however wouldn't work with any of the shop bought standard fibre optic cables for UWP. I ended up using flexible 3.5mm side glow fibre cable, encased in a black hose and wrap it close to my strobe arms, there is more than enough light produced to light the sensors in the YS-D2j's... If you don't wrap the FO cables in black hosing then bright sunlight can trigger the strobes by hitting the FO cables. My problem is I have made one pair of these cables but when I reordered the cable to create spare cables I get a different ones, either non-flexible or with an external skin making it too wide. To make they cost around £10 ($13) to make 2 including connectors at each end, no skills needed other than to be able to measure and use a sharp knife. As said the LED's put out enough light the problem is the amount transmitted by the commercial FO cables.
  13. Hi I've been using the 6500 in a Fantasea housing for around 6mths and like you went from a Canon compact. Its a great rig, although takes some getting used to. I started out with the kit 16-50mm, with wet lenses, worked ok, then I got myself a Tonika 10-17mm(canon fit).. and its much better, even though I had a UWL-09f wet lens on the 16-50. Also I picked up a 60mm Canon 2.8 macro which I've just started trying to play with, and that too works great. I also have the 90mm but yet to pay with it underwater. I guess the issue is you are going to a camera which needs a choice of lens to excel at either macro or wide angle, its a mind set I had to adapt to. Also note regardless of housing, the lens costs can be 'ok' but you will need ports and rings which in some cases will cost more than the lens (for just a metal ring with no moving parts!). The 6500 also is limited to a max 1/125 flash and 1/250 with an led flash trigger. Still not a massive issue, but very different to a compacts sync speed. Also there is a massive difference in weight both dry and wet so you've been warned... I now need to transport it on holiday in two bags, mainly due to the ports.
  14. Hi Everyone Been diving with a camera for a while (from 35mm days), but its become the reason for diving, even here on the South Coast of England.. Cheers
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