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Captain Fathom

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About Captain Fathom

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    Sea Nettle
  1. This is a NIB lens, never used. It has a 52mm threaded mount. The lens provides a FOV of approximately 160+ degrees depending upon the camera and housing port specifics. This lens was $400 new and is current manufacture product. Includes the original box, neoprene dome cover and rear cap. Asking $225.00 or offer considered. Suitable for Olympus TG, various Canon P&S and similar small sensor cameras with 28mm native lens. James
  2. I was thinking $500, offers considered: (1) FIX 90 aluminum housing in very good condition, about 20 or so dives since last service, with rubber viewer shield and optical strobe adapter for flash port. (2) Mint and 100% functional, new S90 Canon camera with battery and charger. (3) One Inon UCL165AD macro lens with covers, perfect. (4) One Inon UFL165AD fisheye wide angle lens with hard covers (zoom to 35mm to prevent vignetting), 9+ condition, no scratches, about a 130+ degree FOV. (5) One Intova focus or video light. (6) Two new port O-rings, three new (plus 1) housing door O-rings, one O-ring service kit. (7) FIX Inon 52mm port adapter. (8) AD bayonet to 52mm adapter. (9) UCL Systems tray plus dual handles and balls. (10) Two AD lens caddies (for strobe arms). (11) Travel case. All in good working order, about 20 dives since last service. James
  3. Apologies for jumping in, thanks for this thread. Does the Sony A6XXX series allow higher than 1/160 with the UT converter protocols? My old Nikonos if I recall only has 1/60 so I have much improved headroom but more would be better. Might have to use a ND filter if know in advance I am specifically wanting to explore sun balls as a primary target. I really like the idea of not having to use camera flash for a strobe driver. The ability to not have the camera preflash is a good thing too as it should improve camera response, at least in Manual modes?
  4. The lens, actually two, for the WWL-1, I can use my Sigma 19mm f2.8 prime or the kit 15-50mm zoom. For the CMC-2 it is the same kit zoom lens. The port is the same for all, the Nauticam macro port 45 which is PN 36128. I just got this set up so I am not trying to overly sway you, just provide useful information for your choices. The CIPA rating is 410 and the Nauticam housing allows for an auxiliary booster battery to be installed. I plan to get the Trekpac system for my 1535 which will allow me to carry additional items, the lid organizer as well. Got to start somewhere. J
  5. Just as a couple of data points, not trying to sway you at all. About the size of the Sony RX, or typical high end P&S, this being the FIX/S90. Easy carryon, the strobe arms go in my dive bag. The case holds two D/Z strobes, wide angle wet lens, macro lens, tray and odds and ends and the camera, 19 pounds: Moving up to the NA6400 and Sony mirrorless, in the Pelican Air carryon, WWL-1 lens, CMC-2 lens, NA6400 with handles attached and two D/Z strobes, the float arms go in my dive bag, the camera and required lens in my backpack, weight is 21 pounds: I used to shoot a Nikonos III, similar size as these, I also had Ike housed SLR and they were a true hassle to carry around, not to mention filling with water regularly which tended to increase their weight notably. I would expect the same with a full frame dSLR. J
  6. In the same boat but already bit the bullet. I toyed with the idea now for several years going dSLR and or full frame, even to the point of buying a Tokina 10-17 lens for a Canon mount. But, having owned several housed film SLRs, I just could not do it. If I were a professional or exceptional amateur like many here I would find a way but at best I am a workman who may by accident get a good photo once or so often. The amount of gear for full frame or dSLR and the size just does not transport easily at all, the cost factor goes way up, obsolescence hurts even more and it just does not make sense for me. So, I went with the Sony A6400, which by the way, is an APS-C mirrorless camera with essentially much of the A7 in miniature. I agree, the big hole in the Sony choice is lack of a good fisheye lens (thus far). But all fisheye lenses distort the corners, some more than others, to get that near 180 degree diagonal field. My Inon UWL100 plus dome (with Rokinon 24mm) and my Nauticam WWL-1 (with kit lens or the Sigma 19mm) with a 130 degree plus FOV will just have to do for my wide angle. The corners appear sharp from a few test shots I have made in the pool (yes, I try to set things up before a trip, not during). I would rather the clean corners I am seeing with the WWL-1 and Sigma 19mm at 130 degrees FOV than the overly stretched images I often see even with fairly expensive equipment to get that full 160 to 180 degree FOV. I went Nauticam, so I am deep in the hole. And I claim no expertise so do not base any decision on what I say. And to top it, one of my trusty Inon D-2000 strobes went TU. Woe is me.
  7. I have read through several of these threads and ordered some multi-fiber cable. But, despite the stated OD it seems a bit bigger and bigger in OD than Inon cable. My problem, if it is a problem, the channels in the Howshot connectors will not accept the larger diameter cable. Is there a cable of similar diameter to the Inon cable that is recommended? Thanks, J
  8. My Inon UFL165AD lens had a hard cap. It had holes, prelocated, proably to vent air but I tied a piece of cave line though and used a plastic bolt snap so that I could remove the cap underwater and hook it to a d-ring. Then, upon boarding the boat, or an emergency where I needed to concentrate on something other than my camera, I could install the hard cap. Most of the times I have had a lens damaged it was due to the crew tossing my rig in the rinse tank after specifically instructing them not to and then the other cameras that landed on top of it damaged the port or lens or other similar on boat fiascos. Being able to install my hard cap is some insurance against that. James
  9. So to answer my own question, it appears that I can indeed install the UWT converter and still revert to my onboard flash. The UWT converter does not block the optical window enough to prevent optical connection with the camera flash. My NA-6400 allows me to install the UWT converter and if, for whatever reason, I wish not to use it, I can simply unplug the hot shoe cable connection and stow it above the camera. I am not sure exactly why I would sometimes not want to use the UWT converter, but I am glad that option seems to be preserved, to use the onboard camera flash unplugging the converter. I might wish to do this early on as I am just learning the camera and housing functions and the UWT is just another layer of learning I must do. Baby steps, one thing at a time. Yes, the converter can be installed and does not prevent operation of the camera strobe or communication with optical cables plugged in to the ports.
  10. Can anyone tell me if the installation of the UW Technics converter precludes using the onboard flash? I have the NA-6400, I have the UWT flash converter but I am just still unboxing everything and trying to understand it all. I went back and forth on the A6300, the new A6400, A6500 and the new A6600 and finally settled on the A6400. I would like to be able to use the onboard flash on occasion and understand that I will need to unplug the hot shoe interface to do so but am curious if the UWT device fully blocks the fiber optic windows precluding use of the onboard camera strobe for optical triggering? The UWT converter installs with double sticky tape. So I would rather not have to tear it out to revert to using the camera's strobe. Thank you for any insight. James
  11. Can anyone tell me if the installation of the UW Technics converter precludes using the onboard flash? I have the NA-6400, I have the UWT flash converter but I am just still unboxing everything and trying to understand it all. I went back and forth on the A6300, the new A6400, A6500 and the new A600 and finally settled on the A6400. I would like to be able to use the onboard flash on occasion and understand that I will need to unplug the hot shoe interface to do so but am curious if the UWT device fully blocks the fiber optic windows precluding use of the onboard camera strobe? The UWT converter installs with double sticky tape. So I would rather not have to tear it out to revert to using the camera's strobe. James
  12. FWIW, the S95 has full manual control and none of the TG series have that capability. For both good and bad, the S95 has a larger sensor as well, though of older generation. I have an S90 in the FIX housing and would much prefer it to a TG anything, but I am not a macro guy either. The S90/95 were sufficiently ahead of their time they are still relevant today for strictly fun photography, which really, I suspect most folks are.
  13. Just joined the forum. I am currently shooting a S90 with a FIX housing. I had previously used a number of film cameras. Just now have purchased a Nauticam NA-6400 and am looking forward to the coming dive season to break it in. James
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