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Captain Fathom

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Posts posted by Captain Fathom

  1. I have the NA-6400. I have not noticed AF hunting but regardless please set up the back button focus. It is a learning curve but it is also a game changer. You can prefocus on something and wait for your subject to enter the preset focus zone or focus before shooting but with BBF, when you push the shutter trigger and the camera goes click, focused or not. No wait. Set to single shot to start with and also turn off AF tracking. It seems my camera, if I keep the BBF engaged (pressed) the focus tracks, when I release the BBF it locks there until I focus yet again or the power is cycled (and possibly sleep).

  2. 8 minutes ago, xavier.diver said:
    8 minutes ago, xavier.diver said:


    @Captain Fathom, I love the cooler bag idea, but I'm not familiar with the brand. How thick is the padding? I'll try to grab one similar before the trip, wondering if I should go for a slightly improved ikea/tote bag or proper padded one


    The cooler bag came from Sam's Club (Walmart) which is like Costco. It has foam padding about 1/4 inch thick. It cost about $5 give or take. There are more expensive bags but they are heavier and harder to pack. The bag can transport my assembled NA-6400 with WWL and strobes and doubles as my own private wash tank. Cheap and light, buy several, throw them away when they come apart. I do put an extra piece of foam or a microfiber towel below the camera for extra protection.


  3. The weight of a Nauticam NA-6400 with two Nauticam (70X200) float arms and two Inon strobes minus the Nauticam WWl-1 but otherwise ready to go diving is 11 pounds and 11 ounces. (as below): 


    In the Pelican case the rig is under the 25 pounds carry on limit, including WWL. But the strobe arms and camera and camera lenses are distributed among other luggage:


    Edit to add, the WWL is 2.7 pounds in air. Underwater, with the WWL-1 with float collar installed, the entire rig is but a few ounces, slightly negative. With the CMC-2 macro converter the rig is neutral, maybe even slightly positive (as well with the dome port and 16mm pancake lens with fisheye converter) but the Stix floats remove easily for fine tuning. 

  4. For what it is worth. I have always jumped in with my camera and occasionally reenter with my camera (clipped to my chest strap D-rings and scooter/crotch ring). But usually I hand it to a deck hand who I try to discuss with them my preferences beforehand. Most times they do their best to accommodate. I provide instruction to NOT put my camera in the "camera bucket" but to instead place it in my soft cooler bag (Sam's Club). 

    Giant stride entries from normal heights are easy, I can raise the camera as I enter to reduce shock to the system. Upon return, the crew is going to grab anything and everything they can quickly. Usually a strobe arm despite my pointing to them where I wish for them to lift. So, I bought a Nauticam braided piece that I clip between my strobe arms and the crew automatically goes for it. Happy day! 


    Here you can see the two bolt snaps on the arm joints for connecting to my chest D-rings and the small tether and bolt snap on the handle for the scooter ring. The deadman (blue) tether is connected as I step to the platform and disconnected as the crew takes my camera upon reentry to the boat. The Nauticam handle (white) is clipped to a D-ring during the dive and upon dive completion, I rotate the strobe arms up, clip the two arm bolt snaps together and attach the Nauticam handle for the crew's target fixation need. I also have the two silicone elastic bands (could be 4mm bungee even better) from the strobe clamp to the lower arm clamps. This ties the camera rig together (for both entry and exit). 

    I have had cameras dropped into the ocean, I have had water contact optics knocked off by crew mishandling, I have had strobe arms disconnect, I have had domes scratched. So, I try to eliminate those things by discussion before hand and my rigging of the system. I keep my WWL-1 port cover with me, clipped off to my scooter ring, it is on during entry and exit. Your system will get some scratches and scuffs during use, otherwise leave it at home, diving is rough. Not to mention the scuffs and scratches on me!

    I will say, with my camera clipped off to my chest D-rings and scooter ring, I can usually reenter the boat via a ladder with the camera as long as it is not too rough. If the ladder is slamming up and down, best to hand off to the deck mate. 




  5. If you explore the Inon web site you may find manuals.


    If your flash trigger emulates the Sony always on pre-flash then you will need to install the magnet. If your flash trigger ignores the pre-flash and fires only a single pulse you will need to remove the magnet. In the sTTL mode the magnet switch is irrelevant, in External Auto and Manual it must be used to set the strobe to the camera pre-flash or no pr-eflash.

    The Sony A6300, like my A6400, always fires a pre-flash even when the camera is set to manual mode. 



    INON D-2000 Underwater S-TTL Strobe

    User Manual [Basic manual]

    This manual is translated and rewritten the INON D-2000 manual , Japanese version by Yuzo Kanda. So if you have any question, comments or suggestion regarding this manual then do not ask to INON Japan or INON America Inc, please contact Yuzo Kanda (Naturephoto KANDA Co.ltd / uwdigitalcamera.com)

    info@naturephoto.co.jp http://www.uwdigitalcamera.com

    Please read this manual through and the manual of your camera and housing before you use.

    [ Safety Precautions ]

    Please read the following precautions carefully as they contain highly important information related to personal and product safety. Precautions designated WARNING! refers to those situations, which could result in serious injury or death.
    Precautions marked 
    Danger or CAUTION! refers to those situations or conditions, which could result in personal injury or property damage. Please observe all precautions


    Do not disassemble or remodel D-2000.

    The strobe contains very high voltage circuitry, it could lead to severe electric shock and injury.

    Never touch electric circuit

    Even if it is not installed battery, there is the possibility to get an electric shock.

    When you think it flooded or malfunction, stop using underwater or even on land


    On this case, please remove batteries ASAP and request to repair or service to us.

    Do not drop water or a foreign body in the battery box.
    Do not fire the strobe at near face ( Especially , take care of infants)

    Do not fire this strobe with the reflector placed on a table or the floor as that may cause overheating of the internal circuitry and/or fire.

    Do not use any solvent or other chemical to maintenance or cleaning. Keep this product out of the reach of babies, infants and children.

    !Danger Safety precautions about battery.
    Follow these precautions to avoid damage to batteries and strobe, and depending on the type of batteries,

    possible buildup and explosion of flammable gas.


     Do not use non-specified batteries You can use these batteries.

    1. a)  AA Nickel Metal Hydride battery (1.2V) * recommended

    2. b)  AA Nicad battery (1.2V)

    3. c)  AA alkaline battery (1.5V)

    4. d)  AA Lithium battery (1.5V)

    5. e)  AA oxy ride dry cell battery (1.5V) *

    Battery voltage of the oxy ride dry cell battery, there is 1.735V. So do not turn on built in focus light before their voltage is lower than 1.5V. Usually it will drop down to 1.5V with over 20 times flashing at Full position.

    • ・  Do not mix different battery types, different manufactures or batteries having different

      remaining charges.

    • ・  Do not attempt to charge non-chargeable batteries.

    • ・  Make sure battery +/- positions are placed in Battery Box.

    • ・  Do not intentionally short the batteries or circuits.

    • ・  Do not use battery charging devices that are not compliant with the battery

      manufacturers recommendation. !Caution

    • ・  Never repeatedly fire the strobe continuously, for example, to test, discharge or refresh the batteries.

    • ・  If you use this strobe in air plane or near the medical equipment, please follow the instruction of them.

    • ・  Protect the D-2000 from excessive impact shock and vibration. Do not drop, do not leave on a vibrating

      boat deck. Especially, protect the Optical sensor.

    • ・  Do not leave the D-2000 exposed to direct sunlight or other areas of high temperature.

    • ・  Do not leave the strobe closed when traveling to or from high altitudes. Always remove the battery cap

      or O-ring.

    • ・  Please remove batteries after using.

    • ・  Violent impact can severely damage it, and dont Back roll or Giant stride with D-2000, please take it

      hand to hand.

      [ Before Use ]

      The D-2000 strobe is a dual use underwater and land external strobe with G.N.20 (ISO100, Air) and following main futures.

    • ・  Underwater TTL auto exposure in S-TTL, from high-end digital cameras to point-and-shoot digital


    • ・  24 steps External Auto control mode and 13 steps manual mode.

    • ・  Film cameras TTL mode is supported. ( Nikonos type is compatible, but it is required optical signal

      converter TTL and optical cable)


    • ・  Integral Shutter linked Auto off Focus light is installed.

    • ・  Clear photo system to completely block all visible light from cameras built in strobe, so you can take

      more clear images without backscatter.

      Before use, please follow these 4 steps guidance
      STEP 1
      Your D-2000 comes from the factory with the following parts.

      1. D-2000 Body

      2. Battery Box Cap

      3. magnet, cap screw and a tool

      4. Extra O-ring

      5. INON grease

      6. Light filter x 2

      7. Instruction manual ( Japanese version x 2 )

      Prepare for the required accessories

      To use the external strobe D-2000, it will be required some optional accessories. Please confirm these items are prepared. If you have any question, please ask us easily.

    1. 4 x AA type batteries. (Nickel Metal Hydride battery is recommended)

    2. Optical cable kit for your housing. It is provided for each housing model.

    3. Housing tray and arm


    [Basic manual]

    Before operating the unit, please read this manual carefully. Keep it for future reference.


    Names of D-2000 parts and function ・・・5 Measures to prevent accidental Flooding ・・・6

    Chapter 1 : Before use
    About corresponding camera or strobe system ・・・8 Required connecting parts or accessories ( not included ) ・・・8 Installing Batteries
    Connecting the optical cable

    Chapter 2 : Easy using ( S-TTL mode) S-TTL control
    How to use S-TTL
    Adjustment of the strobe power at S-TTL mode Trouble shooting

    Chapter 3 : After care and maintenance About handling
    Post dive care
    Overhaul and Maintenance service



    Names of D-2000 parts and function

    11. Main mode switch
    You can set S-TTL mode, S-TTL Low mode, External Auto Flash exposure Adjustment mode or Manual mode.

    12. Strobe ready lamp (Red)
    When the strobe is ready for flash, it light on Red lamp.
    13. TTL monitor lamp (Green)
    When D-2000 could controls its power correctly with S-TTL, S-TTL Low or External Auto mode, it light on Green lamp. 14. EV compensation dial
    When you use D-2000 at S-TTL or S-TTL Low mode, it works as the EV compensation set dial. And when you use D-2000 at External auto mode, this dial works as Aperture value set dial, and when you use D-2000 at manual mode, it works as the power control set dial.
    15. Advanced Cancel circuit switch ( magnet switch hole)
    When you use D-2000 with the camera that do not pre-flash and at External mode or manual, set the magnet here. Then the advanced cancel circuit will be OFF.
    16. Focus light switch
    Off mode: position set at Light as in picture,
    Single mode: Push this switch once and release. The light will turn on and then turn off automatically as the internal

    1. Flash tubes

    2. Focus light

    3. Light adjustment sensor

    4. +1/4EV compensation Switch

    5. Slave sensor

    6. Battery box

    7. Battery box Inner cap

    8. Battery box Inner cap screw

    9. Battery box outer cap

    10. 6mm threaded socket for Z adapter or YS bolt



    strobe fires or if shutter not released, after about 8 seconds.
    Continuous mode: By pushing switch and turning it to either right or left Lock position while pressing, then the focus light will turn on and shine continuously until the shutter is released. Then the focus light will turn on again automatically 0.5 seconds after the image is captured.
    When you use the focus light at 
    continuous mode it will turn on again automatically, and the off time is approximately 0.5 seconds, at the case of using slow shutter speeds it will turn on again while the shutter is still open, exposing the image with light from the focus light. So please use Off mode or Single mode when you use slow shutter speed.

    Measures to prevent accidental Flooding
    The D-2000 is waterproof due to a rubber O-ring that seals the internal circuitry from the elements. There is only one user serviceable O-ring: the Battery Box O-ring. This O-ring requires frequent inspection and care to ensure its watertight integrity. Since most flooding occurs due an O-ring related problem we strongly recommend you to Inspect the O-ring (and clean, grease or replace as necessary) each time before using the strobe..

    O-ring inspection locations and methods Inspect and maintain these three points:

    1. The O-ring itself

    2. O-ring contact surfaces

    3. O-ring grooves and Battery Box outer cap O-ring contact surface

    4. If O-ring is properly seated in groove

    5. Grease

    First, inspect the O-ring as it is seated in the groove. There is a high chance that the strobe will flood if placed in water if any of the following are evident.

    1. If hair, sand or other debris is attached to the O-ring. Remove O-ring and wipe-off the debris.

    2. If the O-ring is cut or cracked. The O-ring must be removed and replaced with a new O-ring

    17. Focus light filter seal
    When you use S-TTL or S-TTLLow mode, paste this on the window at focus light. This filter prevent the focus light have an effect on the accuracy of TTL control. And it makes easy to close fishes or else , they are sensitive to light.
    18. Magnet screw tightener
    19. Magnet
    20. Magnet switch screw
    21. INON grease
    22. Battery box spare O-ring


    1. If the O-ring is twisted. The O-ring must be removed and reinstalled uniformly with no twists.

    2. If there is hair, sand or other debris on the O-ring contact surfaces. Wipe of any debris

    3. If there is a scratch or other imperfection on the O-ring contact surfaces. The strobe must be inspected by an

      authorized technician, and repaired if possible. Contact us.

    O-ring Maintenance Method
    INON O-rings are compounded with a special type of oil that is not compatible with all grease types. Do not

    use the grease except the supplied INON Grease. If you use any other grease, which may cause the O-rings to swell or deform, causing poor seal and water leakage. If you use non-INON grease , then please replace the O-ring to a new one as soon as possible.

    1. O-ring and sealing surface should be lightly lubricated with INON grease lubricant on a regular basis. This should always be done before storing the strobe and before a first dive after taking the strobe out of storage.

    2. It is important never to use a sharp instrument when removing an o-ring as this may cause damage to the o-ring or the o-ring groove. A hairpin or a credit card works well.

    3. The removed o-ring should be examined for damage. Check to make sure that the o-ring is free from nicks and cuts and that it retains its original round profile. O-rings that appear to be damaged should be discarded immediately and replaced with new o-rings

    4. Clean the o-ring grooves (where the o-rings sit) with a Q-tip. Be sure to remove any lint the Q-tip may leave behind. Inspect the groove and the O-ring contact surfaces for damage.

    5. Wipe the part of the battery cap that the o-ring seals against with a clean lint free cloth.

    6. Re-grease the o-rings with a thin layer of INON grease until it appears to be smooth and shiny. Do not over grease it use just enough grease so that the o-ring will pull smoothly through your fingers. Excessive amounts will only attract

      dirt to the o-ring.

    7. Replace o-rings in its proper position.

    After Installing O-ring
    After Installing the O-ring in the groove, making sure that it is seated uniformly and not twisted. Then add a little extra grease to the O-ring and liberally grease O-ring contact surface on the battery box. A Iittle extra grease is necessary due to friction when screwing down the battery box cap. too much friction.
    When the battery box cap is fully screwed down and seated on the O-ring surface, Iook at the O-ring through the transparent edge of the cap. You should see a continuous, uniform contact line between the cap and O ring. If the contact line is not uniform, or twisted, contaminated with hair, Iint or sand etc. there is a good chance the strobe will flood. Remove cap, re-seat O-ring and remove contaminants as necessary.


    Chapter 1 : Before use

    About corresponding camera or strobe system
    INON D-2000 is a complex, multi-function device with different futures available for 6 kinds camera, strobe or housing systems, and it has 4 ways to control its power.
    In this basic manual, it is instructed how to use with digital cameras ( Pre-flashing type or Non pre-flashing type)
    The other way to use as a slave strobe or with housing, they will be instructed in the 
    advance manual


    About the batteries
    The D-2000 can use the following batteries.( Batteries are not included in D-2000) AA type Alkaline batteries x 4
    AA type Nicad batteries x 4
    AA type NiMH batteries x 4
    AA type oxy ride dry cell batteries x 4 *

    Caution 1 : Do not use other kind batteries with merge. We recommend to use with same manufacturer, same kind and same model batteries. And if you use oxy ride dry cell batteries, Please read followed caution. The recommended battery is NiMH battery.

    Caution 2 : The electric current of the oxy ride dry cell battery is same as the alkaline dry cell, but at survey value (as for oxy ride dry cell battery itself inscription 1.5V) there was 1.735V regarding the voltage plane. So if you turn on the focus light of D-2000 when its voltage is still high, it makes easy to burn out light bulb. To prevent it, please turn on the focus light after the battery voltage is low. ( about 20 times or more full flashing make its voltage lower than 1.5V)

    • ・  Do not mix different battery types, different manufactures or batteries having different remaining charges.

    • ・  Do not attempt to charge non-chargeable batteries.

    • ・  Make sure battery +/- positions are placed in Battery Box.

    • ・  Do not intentionally short the batteries or circuits.

    • ・  Do not use battery charging devices that are not compliant with the battery manufacturers recommendation. When you do not use D-2000, please remove batteries.

      And it depending on the type of batteries, possible buildup and explosion of flammable (hydrogen) gas.
      IF you ever feel suspicion that the D-2000 is not operating correctly, immediately stop using D-2000 and

      remove batteries promptly. And request to repair or service to us.


    Optical cable
    INON supplies these optical cables.

    Installing Batteries
    When you install the batteries, always turn Main mode switch to OFF

    1. Slowly unscrew the Battery box outer cap counterclockwise.

    2. Unscrew the Battery box inner cap screw counterclockwise and remove the Battery box inner cap. ( at this time please be aware not to lost the inner cap screw)

    3. Install the batteries in proper position, Pay attention the indications of + / - inside of the battery box.

    4. Put the inner battery cap and screw down the battery box inner cap screw.

    5. After checking the O-ring and contact surface, slowly screw down the battery box cap clockwise.

    Do not turn on main mode switch before installing the optical cable.

    Connecting the arm and the optical cable

    Optical cable kit W5 Optical cable kit W12 Optical cable kit W11 Optical cable kit W13 Optical cable kit W14

    M67 adapter for DC20
    AD mount adapter forCP1 AD mount adapter forCP2 AD mount adapter forFX701 AD mount adapter for PHB



    Attach your arm to the D-2000, please use Z-adapter or INON YS attachment bolt kit. If you will not use proper attachment tool or use some other length bolt, it may break the mount base of D-2000.
    Connecting with 
    Optical cable D , and D-2000 requires  IR filter seal to control its power with S-TTL mode. And when you disconnecting arm or cable, turn off main mode switch for your safety.

    Chapter 2 : Easy using ( S-TTL mode)

    S-TTL control
    D-2000 strobe achieved "Real TTL" control with most digital cameras. From high-end cameras to point-and-shoot cameras, it works TTL auto exposure, programmed mode or other modes, that you should do is only shooting.
    At the present (Oct.2004) INON had confirmed the 
    S-TTL compatibility with these cameras

    How to use S-TTL

    1. Paste the Red filter seal of the focus light.

    Do not set flash mode at Red eye reduction mode. And there are some case that it is impossible to use enforce flash mode by your camera. ( EX: it is impossible to use enforce flash mode with Canon IXY digital series cameras except Manual mode.) Please refer the instruction of your camera.

    3. Turn on main mode switch and set it to S-TTL-Low mode


    4. Set the EV controller dial at position B
    Using the focus light and confirm the strobe light beams to the object correctly. And this light helps speedy focusing. And shoot the images.
    At almost case, you will have good result that is well controlled strobe light. So it is no need to adjust any more.
    But the accuracy of S-TTL control depends on it of the built in strobe. So if you use D-2000 with a point-and-shoot camera that strobe control accuracy is not so good, on this case it will be need to adjust the EV compensation of D-2000.

    Adjustment of the strobe power at S-TTL mode
    INON D-2000 has the EV controller dial. There are some case that you have better to control the strobe power with this function by the reason of strobe control accuracy of your camera, situation of imaging or  your favorite and else. INON introduced some cases, it will be need the adjustment of the strobe power.

    Case 1:

    How to adjust
    the source of the trouble

    Case 2:

    Camera: Situation Result:
    How to adjust

    the source of the trouble

    OLYMPUS μ -series
    Macro mode 
    ON and using tele zoom, and the working distance 30-40cm or closer.
    Over exposure ( too bright )
    Set your strobe mode 
    S-TTL Low and adjust the power with the EV controller dial if it is need.
    At this situation and with this camera, the aperture is closed to f14 and the built in strobe flashes Full power. And this camera controls its exposure level with changing the sensibility of CCD.
    So S-TTL system can not detect the stop signal of the built in strobe power and D-2000 flashes with Full power, too. And the result is over exposure.
    But if you use "S-TTL Low" mode, then D-2000 flashes with the same power with the built in strobe Even if the built in strobe flashes with Full power, but D-2000 flashes the same power of the built in strobe.

    OLYMPUS μ -series
    Wide angle, and in enough ambient light. Ex. backlight photographing.
    Under exposure ( too dark )
    Set your strobe mode 
    S-TTL  and adjust the power with the EV controller dial.
    Or changing the ambient light condition, or a little zooming up and use closed aperture. At this situation and with this camera, the built in strobe flashes with a slight power. Even if the camera strobe mode is " enforce mode " but it only do pretend flashing.
    So S-TTL system detect the slight power of the built in strobe power and D-2000 flashes with a slight power, too. And the result is under exposure.
    And the captured image is like a exposure with only ambient light


    How to Adjust exposure level

    1. Use EV controller dial : Position B [± 0] ,turn to A side then [ + ] compensation, and turn to C side then [  ] compensation.

    [+] compensation: 3 steps [  ] compensation : 5 steps (the range surrounded by Yellow arc ) 2. Select to use S-TTL mode or S-TTL Low mode

    S-TTL Low is the standard mode, but if you think it will be under exposure then please use S-TTL mode.

    1. a)  When you use D-2000 at S-TTL Low mode and using EV controller +3, but it is still under exposure

    2. b)  When you use diffuser panel.

    3. c)  When you use closed aperture. At these case, please use S-TTL mode.

    3. You can use the EV compensation or strobe power compensation of your camera.

    Adjust strobe power to [] compensation (over exposure and adjust it to dark) You can adjust the power to 5 step

    Adjust strobe power to [+] compensation (under exposure and adjust it to bright) You can adjust the power to +3 step

    If you could not have proper exposure by this control, then turn mode switch to S-TTL mode. And when you use S-TTL mode, you can use EV controller dial with the same way.
    Do not fire D-2000 continuously over 15 times, if you need to fire D-2000 continuously, then once stop photographing and cool down the circuit for over 3 minuets.



    Trouble shooting
    If your D-2000 suddenly stop charging, there is a possibility the trouble of inner battery cap with the batteries that you use. Please cope as follows.

    If your battery terminals on the inner cap are crushed, Then pull up the terminals and secure the contact.
    And still it does not work, then there is a possibility it is caused with dirt of the contact face. ( battery side or inner cap)

    It depending on the type of batteries, possible buildup of flammable (hydrogen) gas . And the battery box of D-2000 is highly sealed. And it build up residue on the battery terminals and battery box terminals. This can cause poor connection, so clean the terminals as in images below.

    At this case, please take care not to adhere alcohol or silver polish on plastic parts as the battery box or else.

    Chapter 3 : After care and maintenance

    About handling

    • ・  Never repeatedly fire the strobe continuously, for example, to test, discharge or refresh the batteries.

    • ・  If you use this strobe in air plane or near the medical equipment, please follow the instruction of them.

    • ・  Protect the D-2000 from excessive impact shock and vibration. Do not drop, do not leave on a vibrating

      boat deck. Especially, protect the Optical sensor .

    • ・  Do not leave the D-2000 exposed to direct sunlight or other areas of high temperature.

    • ・  Do not leave the strobe closed when traveling to or from high altitudes. Always remove the battery cap

      or O-ring. This strobe is strong against external pressure but it is not designed to withstand a build up

      of internal pressure. You must loosen the cap of battery box before taking D -2000 on board aircraft.

    • ・  Please remove batteries after using.

    • ・  Do not disassemble or remodel D-2000.

      The strobe contains very high voltage circuitry, it could lead to severe electric shock and injury.

    • ・  Never touch electric circuit

      Even if it is not installed battery, there is the possibility to get an electric shock.

    • ・  When you think it flooded or malfunction, stop using underwater or even on land immediately.

    Wipe each terminal surface with a Q-tips or cotton swab soaked in alcohol to remove any residue or oil similar.
    If this step does not fully clean the terminal, dap a small amount of silver polish on a Q-tips or cotton swab and wipe terminal surface until clean. And clean off any silver polish residue with a clean swab.



    On this case, please remove batteries ASAP and request to repair or service to us.

    • ・  Do not drop water or a foreign body in the battery box.

    • ・  Do not fire this strobe with the reflector placed on a table or the floor as that may cause overheating of

      the internal circuitry and/or fire.

    • ・  Do not use any solvent or other chemical to maintenance or cleaning.

    • ・  Please take care about handling of batteries ( refer page )

      Post dive care

    1. After using D-2000 under water, be sure to wash it thoroughly with fresh water, while leaving all caps on

      waterproofing components closed.

    2. After washing with fresh water, wipe it with a dry, soft cloth and dry in the shade.

    3. After using, remove batteries from the battery component. When removing them, wipe water away

      completely so that water drops will not get into the component or terminal plate.

    4. Apply a thin coat of grease over the O-ring

    5. When not using for a prolonged period of time, store unit with care away from high temperature, high

      humidity, direct sunlight, or severe cold. And the cap of battery component is removed and sealed in

      zippered airtight container or in something like this.

    6. When not using for a prolonged period of time, please recharge and test flashing D-2000 once in a

      month. Then you can maintain the Condenser of D-2000 in good condition.

      Never use petroleum solvents, such as thinner, to clean the D-2000.

    Overhaul and Maintenance service
    We recommend the maintenance at a fixed time. The periodical inspection, once for 1 years and the overhaul, once for 3 years. And if you use D-2000 frequently, then it is better to have in shorter.
    About Maintenance, please request to us. And INON D-2000 has warranty for a year from the day you purchased. But this warranty is valid only in Japan. So For warranty work, the item needs to be shipped back to Japan. In principle, when item is purchased from us, the full Japanese warranty applies. However, if it is shipped to Japan for repair or maintenance, the owner must bear transport ation costs to Japan.

    INON D-2000 English  Basic manual  Ver 1.01 12, Dec.2004

  6. 4 hours ago, ChrisRoss said:

    What I was referring to was to use the built in flash to trigger to test how your strobe performs - this is a fundamental problem as it effectively locks out a full power flash is you need it.  If you are buying new strobes to use with the Sony, this may influence your choice of strobe.  It is also a reason to persist with the board troubleshooting as it gets around this limitation of the strobes.

    Chris and Tim, thank you both. If I seem cranky, it is not you guys, it is me, I am getting frustrated. But I may be making some progress, at least at understanding what is going on, thank you both.

    Chris, I did your set up and the A6400 using the onboard strobe works fine. The Inon strobes produce a pre-flash and properly sync in sTTL mode and in Manual mode with the magnet switch removed I get good sync. I see two flashes when I use the rear curtain sync and slow shutter. In both strobes manual and sTTL I am able to control my exposure from light to dark using the strobe power dial and as well in sTTL mode using the camera +/- EV flash control. When shooting my strobes in manual mode I run the EV control down to -3 stops to conserve battery power. Since the Sony cameras cannot cancel the pre-flash I just have to live with that when using the onboard flash as the trigger. But functionally it is fine. 

    I will contact Pavel, I am just trying to get to the facts and was hopeful others had some direct experience as well to give before I contacted him. This being my second board, both with a similar issue, I am concerned.

  7. 1 hour ago, TimG said:

    Curious. As Chris has suggested, why not drop Pavel a message at UWT? He's terrifically helpful and may well be able to figure out what might be going and what, possibly, could be the solution. 


    Tim since you ask as did Chris, let me respond to you both in regards that question. Why would I not seek the experiences of other A6XXX camera users with the UWT trigger? Why would I not and why would it be expected that I would not? I am not understanding why I am being asked this? Is this not a legitimate forum topic?

    Further, I will contact Pavel, a super nice man. I wanted to have more knowledge on my part before contacting him a second time. Yes, as I indicted up thread, this is my second UWT trigger. The first trigger had two failure modes:

    1. The first trigger would randomly going into an uncontrolled firing mode and would not stop firing until I cycled camera power.

    2. The first trigger also had the same or similar issue I am having with my second trigger that I started this thread over, random failure to drive my strobes. In the first trigger I never explored this issue much but it does seem to be the same issue I have with trigger number two. I was just distracted by the larger issue of my strobes firing continuously, that sort of got my attention as it would yours. 

    I was incorrect, in my earlier saying it was a failure to sync, it is a failure to sync because the LEDs do not fire so of course my strobes do not fire. I apologize for that confusing distraction. As I dig further into this problem I understand more. 

    I am sorry, if the threads I started are inappropriate please have them deleted. I was interested in and requesting experiences of other users with this product, I thought that was a reasonable quest.


  8. Okay, here is what I did. I removed the camera from the housing. I also then removed the UWT board from the housing by gently prying it out. I affixed it atop the camera and then pointed the camera at a mirror. And predictably, about every sixth shot, give or take, randomly, the LEDs do not fire and are not visible in the photo. When all is working well the LEDs are clearly visible in the shot. 

    I guess I am the only person with an A6XXX camera and UWT board, lol. I would be curious if others have the same FTS at random times? I would be challenged to believe my camera is defective. I just think it not to be a stable operating condition, that being using the WL command to ignore a pre-flash via trigger board firmware. 

    I could almost ignore it except that sometimes it will do this two or even three times in a row and then a string of good shots. The "one" shot will of course be the one the malfunction occurs on and therefore is unacceptable to me. 

    So, I was incorrect, the board is NOT firing and I thought it was. You would think this easy to verify but it is not apparently for me. It is not perhaps a failure to sync but a failure of the board to fire the LEDs.


  9. 8 hours ago, ChrisRoss said:

    Which I why I suggested you check how your camera responds when using a simple single contact two wire hot shoe - if it still pre-flashes through a wired connection you need the strobe to ignore the first flash. 

    I know my Z-240s "ignore" it as in don't do anything based upon the first flash but the they still trigger on main and pre-flash - I've tested my Z-240s - the way to test your strobe is to have the strobe on manual, magnet in set it to  a low manual power, then trigger it with the onboard flash in TTL and in rear curtain sync and set the camera up to a slow shutter speed.  In this situation the pre flash goes off, the shutter opens and just before it closes the main flash goes off.  The slow shutter speed (1/2 sec plus) will allow you to see both the pre flash and the main flash distinctly, so you can check how your strobes respond.  It might be an issue with my strobes which Is why I suggested you check.

    As to whether or not the A6400 will flash twice through a two wire bulkhead, I would post a separate topic to ask that question, I'm sure someone will know.

    Still working on thsi Chris. One thing, rear curtain sync is not available with the WL command on. With the magnet installed I am getting a single flash from the strobes, not two.

    Best I can determine, I get a single flash but when the FTS occurs, that single flash is simply not occurring when the shutter is open. I will get six or seven good exposures, then a badly under exposed, ambient only shot. 

    Strobes in Manual

    Camera in Manual

    WL command on

    Magnet installed

    Flash Fill setting

    I am beginning to think that the WL command is simply not a stable camera setting or not stable in the UWT board. For whatever reason, the camera does not issue the command or the trigger ignores it and the UWT board is firing the strobes out of sync as a result. I am very confused. 


  10. I split this topic from my other thread to prevent confusion of myself mostly. 

    I have an A6400 in a Nauticam NA6400 housing, currently shooting with aging but fully functioning Inon D2000 strobes. I am looking to purchase, in due course, new Inon Z330 strobes. I would like the option of using a good old fashioned X-sync connection. I think I see the parts needed on the Reef/Nauticam websites to install the hotshoe and bulkhead connectors. Of course, the D2000 strobes are optical only, I am planning to the future for a Z330 so understand that. In other words, I want to be able to use wired, hot shoe, X-sync when I feel like a nut and revert to optical sync when I do not feel like a nut. And I do have a reasons, one for example, I want to be able to extend my dives or number of dives between battery changes and the A6400 triggering strobes with optical sync and the onboard camera strobe unit uses more battery power than would a wired Hot shoe X-sync as the camera strobe is disabled when the hot shoe is connected and/or the flash head stowed. The other, I would really like ot avoid the always on pre-flash. The A6XXX series does not have a way to cancel the pre-flash using the camera strobe as an optical trigger.

    My first question is therefore, when using a hot shoe activated electrical X-sync connection, does the Sony A6XXX series cameras, specifically the A6400, still fire a pre-flash? I do not have the equipment to test this currently thus the need for an experienced answer. 

    My second question, for now, if the A6400 still fires a pre-flash using a hardwired X-sync hot shoe flash, can the Inon Z330 (or Z240) strobes be configured to ignore that first flash?

    Thank you in advance for any help.

  11. 17 hours ago, ChrisRoss said:

    You should be able to run them optically using the UWT board as well.  Check with Pavel if you need to upgrade anything. 

    If you want to run them electrically with associated o-ring maintenance issues you would need to get a bulkhead and connectors. You can get a manual only bulkhead  that connects to a hotshoe or I believe you can get one that connects onto the UWT board.   You then need a pair of sync cables.  I'm not 100% certain about how the Sony A series behave when hooked up to a manual only bulkhead and what happens with the pre-flash.  Again check with Pavel what your options are, he's very knowledgable about this field.

    I have not done your experiment yet, I had to go into work but I will. That is a good thought.

    But, to answer, I am interested in a manual only (which most photogs prefer) electrical solution that does not use the UWT board because it is not, thus far, reliable. So I am looking to do something other than a flash trigger board. This being board number 2, different issue on the first one, I have sort of lost faith given the cost of the unit.  It is not my camera and if it were a firmware issue on the Sony side, whatever that might be, the trigger board is going to have to work with that because Sony will not address such an issue with a niche UW flash board. The problem lies with the board, my camera is not faulty. I find a one FTS in six average not an acceptable outcome.

    Using the camera strobe, as Nauticam intended, works fine, I just wanted a way to trigger without pre-flash and and without the battery drain of the onboard flash as a trigger. Functionally it works great in manual, manual with strobe TTL and full TTL. But I like the concept of the board.

    I see the parts I need on the Nauticam and Reef sites for wired electrical X- sync.

  12. 1 hour ago, ChrisRoss said:

    Have you tried other switch positions for this system, besides the s2000?  I would think of a D2000 as being more like a lower featured Z240.  The other question is how did you confirm that no pre flash occurred from the UWT?  I'm assuming WL command is a fudge to cause the A6400 to shoot in manual (no preflash or TTL) flash?

    When you say an under exposed shot - is there any contribution from flash or is it pure ambient exposure?  the standard way of checking this is shooing into a mirror to see if any flash fires at the right time.

    One possibility is that the camera periodically "forgets" it is supposed to be in WL mode fires off a pre flash and main flash causing the D2000 to fire twice and the second flash does not have enough power so it either does not fire or fires weakly.  This could be tested by seeing if the behaviour is the same when shooting at  half or full power compared to shooting at something like 1/16 power so the flash has enough capacity for multiple shots. 

    If you have tried these out and it persists perhaps PM Pavel if he doesn't respond to this thread.


    Mr. Chris, thanks for the thoughts.

    The WL command is used by the  firmware within the TTL converter that sees the WL command to not pre-flash. 

    The "0" position on the converter switch is irrespective of the type of strobe as it is a hard wire manual. I have available to me an S2000 strobe and the issue does not go away. The operation of the S2000 and D2000 are very similar. The "9" position is for the TTL operation with the S2000 in the sTTL mode. Of course, I am running twin D2000 strobes, but this is not really the cause of the problem.

    When I say underexposed, I was not clear, thank you for pointing that out. You are correct, in a mirror, there is no visible flash when the condition occurs. The condition is random, I do not seem to be able to tie it to anything in particular. The converter and camera work fine, and then loss of sync. Fire again, it is good!  I am beginning to think you might be on to something in that occasionally the converter does not see the WL command.

    The Sony onboard strobe cannot be configured for 1/16 power nor can the pre-flash be cancelled (thus my desire for the UWT trigger). The UWT trigger is a hot shoe connection, the camera strobe is out of the system so setting it to a low power is of no point. The apparent brightness of the D2000 strobe does not visibly differ when the failure to sync occurs. Of course not because the strobe is in manual setting and the power setting is what I dialed in. It just simply is not in sync when it fires on random occasions. 

    The position "9" for sTTL does work with the strobes in sTTL position and I am able to control the exposure and I can also revert the strobes to manual and again control the exposure but in both cases, I still get a random failure to sync. Forgive me but I am thinking through as I write. I am afraid I will burn my strobes up just banging away trying to isolate each setting to isolate the problem. I cannot isolate the problem, that as much as anything is frustrating. I do not wish to blame it on the converter, but, right now, it is suspect number 1. 

    The good news is that the system, with the UWT converter disconnected, I can revert to the A6400 strobe and all is well in both full manual (strobe and camera) and manual camera and sTTL strobe. 



  13. For what it is worth, I always remove batteries from battery powered devices when stored. For my Inon D2000 strobes I remove them during transit on a trip and at home. They may remain installed except during charge during a trip of active diving. I number my cells as sets and keep them together and use them together and charge them together. 

    And I too have seen Eneloops leak and it may well be due to micro-discharge when setting idle, I could only hazard a guess for that. But I have seen them leak.  Plus there is the constant depression of the contacts (at least with Inon strobes) that can deform them over time or if there is a jarring impact (while in the case). 

  14. Thanks to the Covid virus I have not gotten my Nauticam A6400 in the water hardly at all in 2020. But, the few dives I did, more to learn and familiarize myself with the outfit, I found an annoying issue I have not been able to rectify. I have the A6400 set in manual, I have configured one of the buttons to turn on or off the WL command and I am running two Inon D2000 strobes also set in Manual (with magnet switch installed). I have the TTL converter set to 0 which is the hardwired manual condition with no pre-flash emitted by the diodes via internal firmware with the WL command WL to on condition. 

    All seems to work fine except that on average, and this with limited use, about every 6th shot there is no sync resulting in an underexposed shot despite both strobes firing. If I shoot again (lol, if my subject is still available!) all is well. But then again, unpredictably, no sync. 

    I have also tried the UWT converter set to 9 (S2000 position), then using the WL command to WL on, strobes in manual, A6400 in manual. Again, I get a string of good shots interrupted by a fail to sync shot. And, yes, the D2000 strobes are firing and the diodes are firing.

    I have D2000 Inon strobes, the TTL converter does not have the exact program profile therefore I use the S2000 (position 9 on the converter). I do not see this to be the problem as the S2000 is really just a mini-D2000. And in either case, sync is sync, in converter set to 0  position, it certainly should not matter. 

    My first UWT converter was replaced under warranty due to a firmware known issue, so this one is number two. I would really like to solve this problem as I love the concept of the UWT converter but the random failure to sync is perplexing. I have some trips coming up and have not yet been able to solve this mystery. But, my fall back is to unplug the UWT converter and revert to onboard flash, which works reliably, produces a lot of heat, sucks down my battery and is functionally slower. 

    Thanks for any thoughts. And yes, set up on my dining room table, I find the same issue happening. I hate running my aging D2000 strobes dry, but yes, the random fail to sync does occur dry.

  15. In sTTL mode (the strobe switch selected to the sTTL position) the D2000, S2000, Z240 and Z330 will automatically expect a preflash and operate correctly ONLY when the camera emits a preflash (which your TGX always does if I remember correctly) REGARDLESS of the magnetic switch (in or out) or with the Z240 and Z330 selected to either preflash or no preflash on the selector switch. In other words, to be more simple, the sTTL selection over rides the magnet switch and it does not matter whether the magnet is in or out for sTTL operation. 



    The above chart I made for Canon S&G series cameras, since your TGX always fires a preflash and your S2000 strobe does not have the  e-Auto mode, you only have Manual and sTTL as choices. For Manual operation of the S2000 strobe with a camera that fires a preflash, remove the magnet. For Manual operation of the S2000 with a camera that does not fire a preflash or can be set not to (like a Canon S or G series), install the magnet.

    Since you are operating the strobe in sTTL and your TGX always emits a preflash, I suggest you remove the magnet (but do not lose it) as it makes no difference in this set up.


  16. For A6XXX/Nauticam users, I have inquired and not really been answered but this lens is so all new. I think that the Sony E16mm prime (using the very short Nauticam dedicated threaded port for that 16mm lens) would be compatible with the WWL-C in much the same way the discontinued (but available) Sigma 19mm Art lens works with the WWL-1 and Macro Port 35. If so it would be a significantly shorter assembly on the housing and there is the built in float collar which is sort of nice compared to the WWL-1 floaty collar. It has one less element in the groups so it might not be as fully corrected. I suspect either the WWL-1 or the WWL-C are sharper than the lenses often used with them, zoom or prime, so neither would be a weak link. The port chart supports the Sony kit lens, Macro Port 35 and the WWL-C with possible vignetting at the 16mm setting and full zoom through.

  17. Ultralight Control for arms and tray, they make quality arms that will last for years:


    The S2000 strobes would balance well with your TG6 as they are extremely small, super reliable and high quality and produce a wide illumination that is nicely even using four AA cells. The GN is 20 so they are not the most powerful but could still be useful on a upscale camera system. The Z240/Z330 strobes are overkill and would dwarf the tiny TG6, especially a pair of them. The S2000s recycle quickly even after a full dump. I like the idea of buying strobes once and carrying them forward, the good news is that Inon strobes have a loyal following and the S2000 hold their value and are a desirable strobe. Big strobes now with a tiny camera or tiny (but still potent) strobes later with a larger camera (format) or trade up when that time comes. I vote (FWIW) S2000s now.

  18. I am not saying this is the best way or even a good way but I have used several variations of this over many years going back to film days. In the photo, my new rig (thanks to C19 it has seen no battle) you can see the blue Cetacean coil lanyard which stays clipped ALWAYS to my scooter ring (crotch ring). I only unclip here to hand the camera to a deck hand if I do not board with the camera myself. You also see the short orange lanyard with a bolt snap, this one is to clip and hang the camera rig off to my scooter ring for freeing my hands for minor, momentary tasks (not emergency). You see also on the left handle and right handle a screw link and the left one has a double ender bolt snap. Actually, I use two such double enders and these double ender bolt snaps stay clipped to my shoulder D-rings. They are used to tote the camera (beach diving) or to secure the rig to my chest in tight in the event I need my hands free to deal with an emergency or whatever. I can also clip the orange lanyard to my scooter ring for three point suspension of the camera rig (prevents the rig from hanging when in horizontal swimming position) or flopping around when walking to and from the dive site (beach dive). The white lanyard between the handles is used to lift or carry the camera rig. When in the water I may remove it and clip it off to my wing/BP (on a D-ring on my waist strap RH where some used to secure a can light). For beach diving or where I intend to not hand the camera off, I may dispense with the white lifting lanyard altogether. 


    A variation I have used with smaller rigs is to use the white lanyard in place of the two double enders. In this way I thread the white lanyard through both chest strap D rings and then clip to the handles as shown or similar. Kind of resembles a sternum strap on a BC when deployed but for different purpose.


  19. The intended purpose of the home fabricated masks being recommended by the CDC is not to prevent the wearer from inhaling virus particles but instead to knock down/trap droplets/material being exhaled by the wearer. My mask protects you, your mask protects me. They are trying to conserve the N95 masks and similar for medical use and first responders since they are still in short supply. 


    You will get your peer reviewed, factually proven and supported, double blind, control groups studies about a year from now, about the time we get a vaccine. At some point in the interim, those of us who are not in one of the vulnerable groups, using the recommended precautions, are going to have to OO's up and get about our lives.

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