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Captain Fathom

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Everything posted by Captain Fathom

  1. I have used Testors enamel. It is a model/hobby paint in small vials. Use a small brush to apply the enamel. Since the lettering is inset on some housings you can use a alcohol wipe to gently remove the excess.
  2. I try to go straight to the source. Why, because I do not need the news media to interpret for me. They nearly always do give the information, but then they preface it and follow it with their bias which blurs what is real and what is opinion. I can go to the source and get the info without the bias. It is becoming increasingly clear that this pandemic is going to be a long row to hoe. And worse than most hoped it would be. I am still hopeful, perhaps based only on wishful thinking for the best for people, that this will diminish with the onset of spring. But, whether it does or not, it looks like a useful vaccine is still many months away. Like many here, I am sure I will be losing some money on trips already paid for. My next up trip has not yet been canceled but I expect it to be. Just not going to be a good year at all. I had hoped it would be. My wife is a nurse/therapist, she was recently exposed to a possible case, results not back yet. Great .
  3. I can throw this Olympus 770SW Tough outfit in as well with the Canon S90/Recsea set perhaps instead of the UWL-04. Shipping it all might be a problem, lol. Fully functional and includes the Inon AD lens adapter which works with the AD macro and WA lenses from the S90 kit: Boxes for the S90 outfit:
  4. When I say weaponized I do not mean deliberate spread, I mean that an unfortunate circumstance is being used for political purpose. And that is not BS. It is very difficult for normal people to make reasonable decisions when so much of the news media is providing false or deliberately hyped information. I am going to go to the WHO and CDC, not NBC or MSNBC, for information.
  5. So then the Retra strobe Smart SL circuit works somewhat like the magnetic reed switch for the ACC on an Inon strobe? Magnet in to ignore preflash and magnet out to emulate preflash except now it is done by a calibration shot per the operating mode desired? Kind of confusing, as if the magnet switch were not ;).
  6. I will follow the advice of the degreed professionals. If they tell me to not go some place, I will give that educated advice careful consideration. I will not follow the hype of the news media and junk science they present as fact. I am very sorry for those places that have been hit so terribly hard with this novel virus. I will keep Italy in my thoughts and prayers and be thankful the reports from China are improving. That gives us all hope for an end to this. Hopefuly sooner than later, we can pray for it. In the US H1N1 killed over 12,000 people and infected upwards of 61 million people, that was hardly yesterday. It is hard to have perspective on a hammer when you are getting hit by the hammer, I appreciate that. Losing our family members and friends is hard to fathom until one has experienced it. I am 66 yo and my wife is 63 yo and a nurse and works in a hospital. Yes, I have my eye on it but I am not going to panic. Thankfully only one case in our state and the low population density of many areas in the US will make transmission inefficient, we can hope for. James
  7. The Spanish flu killed somewhere around 50 million people. Of course, today, with supportive treatments and antibiotics for immune suppressed secondary infections the death rate would be less in first world countries. But, the flu is a deadly virus and some varieties thereof are especially dangerous but yet none of my co-workers take their flu vaccines and most people I know do not and refuse to do so. All sorts of reasons they provide, most quite ridiculous. And yet this Corona virus outbreak is being hyped and weaponized in part for political service and harm to the economy and compared to Ebola. The only way we will not take our planned vacation trips is if the airlines ground themselves and I cannot drive. Yeah, be cautious, but I am not going to put my life on hold for the fake news media to hype doom and gloom. I think I too will break out a Corona Light tonight.
  8. Which converter, the APC-C for the 16mm f2.8 or the FF version? If you are meaning the APS-C E mount converter I think the Sony website show compatibility with the 20mm E mount lens. I have the 16mm and the converter, I bought it to use behind a dome but understand the corners are pretty soft at open apertures. But regardless, I also do surface photos and it is a fun outfit for that alone. Sony FF and APS-C cameras are selling like hotcakes on a cold day. Sony actually makes a profit on consumer imaging. And they recently eased their restrictions for other party lens makers access to their mounts and data. Maybe someday there will be a true fisheye lens option not needing a converter.
  9. I can include a Fisheye brand UWL-04 dome (fisheye/WA) lens with 52mm screw mount. Works wonderful with this outfit. The lens is in VG to E condition: And the Inon UFL165AD with bayonet mount: Pics with the Fisheye UWL-04: Thanks for looking, James
  10. I have the Inon UWL100 with dome, also glass. It came with a neoprene cover. Some covers are bare neoprene and others have a double fabric side. The bare neoprene type are less likely to scratch but do not dry once in place, but will dry quickly, left free, and then install. The fabric on both sides type dry slowly and seem "rougher" to me. So, put the cover on and enter the water. Remove cover and put it where it will not be lost. Dive over, replace cover for boarding and camera handling. Then place camera on the camera table and remove the cover and place a microfiber cloth over the lens, drape it over. Repeat process for each dive. For storage, I cut a square of a microfiber cloth and when all is dry, place the mf cloth between the neoprene cover and lens. My Inon UFL165AD has a hard cover as does my new Nauticam WWL-1. James
  11. I would agree with you from my limited perspective, no, an APSC DSLR no longer makes sense, except of course where it does and for those who it does, who have a lens investment and who like the optical reflex mirror system, longer battery life, familiarity with operation. But with the likes of the Sony A7 FF mirrorless coming along, for similar price and size we can go there. But for mirrorless APS-C, the answer is yes. And the price differential is negative compared to some M4:3 systems. We will not settles this out here, the market will decide and M4:3 appears to be fading. I really hope not. But back to your question, there is a reason I have a NIB Tokina 10-17mm lens sitting in my closet with no matching camera, I looked at DSLR and just could not go there. But it will find a home on my Sony. The real answer is to enjoy and learn with that you have. Professionals and serious amateurs with aspirations are going FF. And right now one of the most all around capable FF systems is the mirrorless Sony A7X.
  12. I do not think you will be able to pick a winner or rule out either APS-C or M4:3. The advantages and disadvantages have more to do with the system and the photographers need than actual performance differences. For some the APS-C is bigger and that is all that matters and it is bigger by 60% give or take. Will this make a pratical difference in the field, in most cases no, IMO and I am not an expert. The WWL-1 et al were designed apparently for FF to Compact. It is not a true fisheye but nonetheless all reports indicate it to be a sharp lens even for the FF A7 with 28mm. it certainly appears very sharp with my system and plenty wide for most of my needs. I agree with Nauticam's assumption that the 130 degree FOV is a very good compromise. What are trying to decide here, that M4:3 is better than APS-C or that M4:3 is relevant? I kind of lost the direction? I could have certainly been satisfied with M4:3 and the Oly cameras are very well built. And I would be proud to own one.
  13. I am using the WWL-1 and Inon UWL100/dome. I have not had the rig out on a real trip, just pool familiarity but the WWL-1 and Sigma 19 f2.8 looks really clean edge to edge at all apertures on the A6400. I own a NIB Tokina 10mm-17mm lens I bought a few years back when I almost went DSLR. I will get the adapter and dome for it when I recover from all these purchases ;). Regarding the Nikonos, the 15mm is not a fisheye, the S&S 12mm is. They are both still very wide and very clean even considering the crop factor and they are water corrected so they do not lose FOV when submerged. James
  14. For me, I was definitely conflicted between M4:3 and APS-C, both in mirrorless format. I could certainly be happy with several of the excellent M4:3 offerings. But the Sony A6400 plus Nauticam is less than the original examples: Sony A6400 w/15-50mm + Nauticam NA6400 = $998 ($898 body only) + $1730 = $2728 APS-C is a much larger sensor, not the huge jump to FF but certainly significantly larger than M4:3. Larger is good, so this forum says. And it is larger in the range of 60% vs. M4:3. The price to performance to portability ratio is excellent. Even more portable than some M4:3 due to the high top housings in some Oly cameras will not sit vertical in my Pelican 1535, the NA6400 does easily. I looked further into the companies, Sony makes money on it's consumer photo products, Olympus and Cankon do not. Sony has recently made it easier for other party access to certain data thus making it easier for lens makers to offer additional product. I believe that Sony mirrorless cameras will continue to excel and innovate. The A6400 arguably has the fastest autofocus of any camera, a number of tests show it faster or as fast as the newest A7 series. I intend to use my new A6400 for outdoor, wildlife and motorsports photography as well as UW so I wanted a system that had the fast autofocus and tracking AF and lens selections that can be used on both FF and APS-C formats. If I get a Sony A7X it may never see UW use, but I can share lenses with my A6400. Things that irk me with the Sony cameras are inability to select manual only flash with no-preflash. And then there is that menu! And the 1/160 sync speed. But I am using a TTL trigger and I lived with 1/60 to 1/125 for many years with Nikon SLRs and Nikonos. So I can make do. And, the Sony is HSS capable. I like the Sony camera better, I liked the APS-C format better than M4:3 in the end, I like the amazing AF. I liked the bigger sensor, it is bigger, no two ways about it.
  15. Is not the HSS light pulses timed with the shutter travels? I cannot afford two Retra strobes now but the HSS capability is making me surely want to. I can see this HSS capability being very useful for CFWA and many other shots. The inclusion of this capability on the TTL triggers from several of the folks is very interesting to me.
  16. Hey @Barmaglot. The #36172 is the zoom gear for the 16-50mm kit lens, I have it so mounted now. I am sure a gear could be set up or printed (by smarter people than me) for the Sigma 19 and Rokinon 24. I am still working with the little Rokinon 24mm f2.8. It will not work with the Macro Port 45 unfortunately with my UWL100/dome lens. The port is too long. It does seem to work fine at 24mm zoom with the kit lens. Underwater testing hopefully this Monday in the pool. I think the Macro Port 35 would be ideal if I could get one. On the other hand, the WWL-1 seems to work as advertised with both the kit 16-50mm and the Sigma 19mm f2.8. Both the kit lens (zoom at 19mm) and the Sigma 19 seem to get at or very near a full 130 degree FOV. And it is very clean and sharp across the FOV with both but especially with the Sigma 19 f2.8. Yes, after I recover some from the purchase of all this and get a few trips behind me I think I will go Nikonos lens hunting. I went around and around as you know with what system to buy into. I could have gotten the A7IV but purposely did not and in part due to portability but I am as well preserving my ability to do another upgrade down the road. I believe, after some research, that Sony will continue to innovate and provide top level cameras in all price ranges. So what I am saying is that I want to begin to invest in Sony lenses that can ride with me in a future (but several years away) upgrade. Not necessarily either to "full frame" as I do like the compactness and feel of the APS-C format and Sony's interpretation of it.
  17. There is not a focus gear for either the 16-50 kit lens, the Sigma 19f2.8 or the Rokinon 24f2.8 which are my primary lens choices at the moment. I suppose one could be printed for the Sigma and the Rokinon. Again, it is not strictly the AF, it is the complexity per the OP and many others with similar issues most of which results from having multiple menus and sub menus and the work arounds to drive the camera to do what the photographer wants and not what the camera wants to do. I sold my Nikonos and Nikon SLRs years ago. Probably a mistake, well it was a mistake, but I cannot cry over spilled milk. If I ever find the S&S 12mm and can afford it I will grab it or a Nikonos 15mm. I have seen the return of vinyl LPs, maybe an all manual camera is not such a big wish. I was offering some additional set up thoughts for the A6--- series cameras, I am sorry that my aside issue with overly complex (and fragile) automatic cameras perturbs so many.
  18. I was not responding to battery life but to the complexity and work arounds needed mostly regarding focus issues that are common. A Nikonos III with a digital sensor would be enough for me but with the additions of an internal meter and a LCD for viewing. Though I still have and sometimes use my old (2) Sekonic Marine meters. Kind of like cars or motorcycles, do you want a manual transmission or an automatic, make mine manual. My suggestion to turn off Pre-AF does help conserve battery but it was mostly directed towards faster focus acquisition in some cases. My A6400 does seem to have much improved battery life and with the onboard auxiliary battery I should be good for at least three full dives. The TTL trigger should much improve battery life and reduce shot to shot lag to minimal. I like the back button AF rather than the half press with center spot. That way I can defeat the AF magic and pick my subject, lock on the AF to my intended subject and then recompose the shot. The focus remains the same until I hit the button again or select on C1 a different mode, but still using the back button to drive it. I can use the My Menu to set back button focus for on or off so I can quickly revert to half press shutter button engaged focus.
  19. I built my first camera housings. The very first was a AGFA 35mm in a Plexiglass box using glands gotten from a listing in Skin Diver magazine and using the book How to Build Your Own Housing or something like that. I built a number of variations even fabricating a dome port from a marine compass bubble. The HS shop teacher helped a few times with the more complicated versions to machine various parts. During that time I was gifted a used Nemrod 120 camera. I then moved to a Nikonos I that was also well used when I got it and then I bought a new Nikonos III that I used in addition to a Nikon FE and then a Nikon FMIIT SLRs (in Ikelite bubbles). Then an Oly 5050 in Ikelite until it flooded, then a Canon A570 in Ikelite until it flooded and then a Canon S90 in FIX (still going strong) and now a Nauticam with Sony A6400.
  20. I like back button focus assigned to my AEL/MF button (custom), assigned to both to use the rear trigger on my Nauticam for focus and front trigger for shutter only. I have Pre-AF (Screen 1, Page 6) turned off to conserve battery and potentially speed up AF. I have C1 set to AF mode and C2 to WL command toggle ON/OFF for my TTL trigger configuration. Power save time is set to two minutes but with the aux. battery installed (Nauticam) the display screen will always be on. My new camera is a A6400. What the world really needs is a camera with only Aperture, Shutter and Focus controls, all Manual all the time only, oh, and ISO. We purchase all of these AF, auto exposure driven cameras with 100 menus and sub menu options, all to get around or trick the camera into doing what we want it to instead of what it wants to via software. How about no software and no auto anything? Let me have control of my camera please, with FOUR controls. James
  21. Be it a S90, S95 or a S100, any one of them is considerably more capable overall than the TG(X). Full manual and a larger sensor cannot be dismissed.
  22. This intended to Stuartv: The magnet switch has no function when the Z240 is set to sTTL. The strobe defaults to the expectation of a preflash regardless of the switch position. In strobe set to eAuto or strobe set to Manual the magnet switch does cancel the expectation of a preflash when the magnet is out and sets for preflash when in. My A6400 always preflashes (which is kind of stupid Mr. Sony) even when the camera is set to Manual. Therefore when the trigger is set to 0 position the trigger provides a single synchronized pulse to fire the strobes and in this configuration the strobe magnet switch should be out. When you set the trigger to the "profile" selection for sTTL then the strobe magnet switch should be in and this because the trigger will provide a preflash so the strobe needs to be set to expect the preflash, which of course is how sTTL works. Now continuing, note in the TTL converter instruction sheet the information on selecting camera command WL (wireless) when in camera Manual mode. The WL provides a command to the TTL converter to provide sync without a preflash. Therefore your strobe should be in Manual and the magnet switch should be out. If however, you wish to use strobe sTTL with camera selected to Manual then turn off the camera command WL and select the strobe magnet switch to in and set the strobes to sTTL. Think about this, this is really powerful because it lets you bounce between 1) sTTL with preflash and camera set in Manual with strobes set in sTTL and 2) camera set to Manual and strobes set in Manual and no preflash. This by turning on and off the WL command (I think that is how it works). If the TTL converter or camera ( not sure which is getting confused) gets confused then cycle the camera to OFF and then back to ON. This should clear the fault. If you want to do ambient light without flash and want to access the full range of shutter speeds, select (preset command to a configurable button) Silent Shutter in your menu. The TTL converter will no longer function. I have found that when I turn off Silent Shutter, the TTL converter may or may not come back on line. If you wish to bring the converter back on, reboot the camera. Now the TTL converter should return to normal operation. I hope I am not misleading you. I dive my new camera on the dining room table before going on a trip. Trips are too stressful to work out a new system, at least for my poor brain. James
  23. This is a NIB lens, never used. It has a 52mm threaded mount. The lens provides a FOV of approximately 160+ degrees depending upon the camera and housing port specifics. This lens was $400 new and is current manufacture product. Includes the original box, neoprene dome cover and rear cap. Asking $225.00 or offer considered. Suitable for Olympus TG, various Canon P&S and similar small sensor cameras with 28mm native lens. James
  24. I was thinking $500, offers considered: (1) FIX 90 aluminum housing in very good condition, about 20 or so dives since last service, with rubber viewer shield and optical strobe adapter for flash port. (2) Mint and 100% functional, new S90 Canon camera with battery and charger. (3) One Inon UCL165AD macro lens with covers, perfect. (4) One Inon UFL165AD fisheye wide angle lens with hard covers (zoom to 35mm to prevent vignetting), 9+ condition, no scratches, about a 130+ degree FOV. (5) One Intova focus or video light. (6) Two new port O-rings, three new (plus 1) housing door O-rings, one O-ring service kit. (7) FIX Inon 52mm port adapter. (8) AD bayonet to 52mm adapter. (9) UCL Systems tray plus dual handles and balls. (10) Two AD lens caddies (for strobe arms). (11) Travel case. All in good working order, about 20 dives since last service. James
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