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Andrej Oblak

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About Andrej Oblak

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    Ljubljana, Slovenia

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  1. Hey guys, an update on this. I took my Tokina to a local repair shop, they inspected it, found out that there's really something wrong with the aperture, and told me that the entire aperture mechanism needs to be replaced. Unfortunately they cannot do it here, as they are not authorised by Tokina to do the repairs, so they need to send it to them.
  2. Thanks for this message Matt. It kind of reassures me that it's not just my lens that is broken, but looks like Tokina's quality control is pretty bad. @TimG image quality with Nikon may not be drastically better than with Tokina (haven't compared it yet, so I can't comment on this), but build quality definitely is, as well as better reliablity, works on Z bodies, etc.
  3. I recently sold a complete Sony RX100 III setup and switched to Nikon D500. While the Sony produced very nice and sharp images (used it with AOI UWL-09 and Nauticam CMC-2 wet lenses), it was very limited for macro use. As it has been mentioned above: the native lens by itself isn't good enough for macro (doesn't focus close enough), so you have to put the macro wet lens in front of it. But this drastically reduces your working distance, so you can only shoot stuff that doesn't swim away too fast, such as nudibranches, scorpion fish, etc. But I still managed to produce some very nice shots with it, so it's not _that_ bad, you just need to have more patience. As for wide angle, this was a very nice setup and I really liked shooting with it. So if you're really into macro, I'd suggest buying something with interchangeable lenses.
  4. No worries, buddy, you gave me all the information I need I also use the latest firmware for D500 (which added support for CFExpress memory cards), so I guess this can't be the reason for metering issues. Otherwise Tokina doesn't have its own autofocus motor; AF is screw driven by the camera. I'd say that aperture is opened / closed by the camera too, via an aperture pin on the lens. I seriously doubt that such an old tech would have electronically controlled aperture I'm already in contact with the local repair shop. I'll take it for repair next week (planning to do some more shooting this weekend) and then I'll post here what they find out. However, I regret that I didn't buy Nikon 8-15mm instead.
  5. I've tried this now and with identical settings that give good exposure on 17-55 at 17mm, image is noticeably brighter with 10-17 at 10mm. By my estimation by at least 1EV. Light meter also shows that image will be 1 stop underexposed with Tokina. So if I would set it up so that the light meter reads 0.0, it would be actually about 2EV overexposed. What I don't understand is how a dirty pin would affect the aperture opening and closing. Isn't that done manually by camera via an aperture pin? And if there is a problem with the aperture closing down insufficiently, wouldn't then the exposure be spot on with the maximum aperture setting? It's not the case with my lens; even f3.5 gives overexposed images. A wild theory: is it possible that firmware upgrade for D500 would break the metering algorithm for 3rd party lenses? @TimG could you please check which versions you use on your D500? Mine are C 1.30 and LD 2.013
  6. Even when zoomed to a different position, there's no difference in metering. This problem is showing on land as well as in water. It's easiest to reproduce on scene with the blue sky taking over approximately 50% of the image. Though with all this testing and comparisons I did figure out that perhaps the best way to meter with (at least with my copy of) this lens is to use spot meter with highlights warning. Only this way I got somewhat consistent results without severely overexposed highlights.
  7. I tested this theory out in my living room right now, but unfortunately it doesn't help. At matrix metering mode exposure meter reads the same value when zoomed out to 10mm, as when zoomed in to 17mm. In case of center weighted metering it showed max 2/3 of a stop difference, but that may be due to the subject filling more of the center of the frame as I've zoomed in. But still the metering was about 2EV off (overexposed). Repeated the test with Nikon 17-55mm under the same conditions and on each end of the zoom range the exposure was perfect. Is it possible that aperture doesn't close as much as the camera assumes that it will? I did notice on my copy of the lens that the lever which opens the aperture on the lens has some play. I can move mine to about 1/3 and it doesn't affect how the aperture is opened. It only starts opening the aperture from 1/3 on. But even if that was the case, I guess the metering would be correct at the fully opened aperture, but it's not.
  8. Hello I have this weird issue with Tokina 10-17mm fisheye and light meter in my Nikon D500. If I set the aperture, shutter speed and ISO so that light meter reads 0.0 (matrix metering), photos are overexposed by about 3 stops. So I need to dial in -3.0EV exposure compensation to have at least approximately reliable light meter. Why approximately? Because it's not always off by 3 stops, sometimes it's off by 2 stops, sometimes by 4 stops, etc. It really depends on the conditions I'm shooting in. But I didn't figure out a pattern yet. I've checked the aperture blades and they all seem to move normally (I can't see any stuck blades). I also did a test where I've set the optimal exposure on f3.5 and then progressively closed the aperture and took a photo for each 1/3 step. Photo was getting darker as one would expect, which again confirms that aperture blades are not stuck. Contacts on the lens also seem pretty clean to me. Light meter on the rest of my Nikkor lenses works perfectly fine, so camera can't be an issue. Is this a normal behavior for a fisheye (Tokina) lens or did I just get a bad copy?
  9. Thanks, Pavel, for the explanation! I think I'll just stick to manual board for now & manual locking of shutter speed
  10. You're right, I checked the EXIF data from the last few photos and in all of them it says "Flash did not fire" (even though it did). It's interesting though that the camera lets you change flash settings (rear / front curtain sync, compensation, etc.) if the flash is not detected. Well I guess I'll just stick to locking it manually. At least I'm able to select 1/320s that way, otherwise camera would force me to use 1/250s max.
  11. Hey I noticed that when I connect an optical flash trigger, which comes builtin in the Nauticam's NA-D500 housing, to my camera, shutter speed doesn't doesn't stop at the set value (I have "e1. Flash sync speed" set to 1/250) but the camera lets me choose speeds higher than 1/250s. Is this a normal behavior or is there any additional setting which I need to turn on, for the shutter speed limiter to work properly with the optical flash trigger? It's a bit inconvenient now, because when I shoot macro, I always shoot at the upper limit of the flash sync speed, but sometimes I accidentally bump it to 1/400 or 1/500 and usually notice that too late, so some images have a black strip on the bottom border of an image. I found a workaround, where I've mapped "Shuter spd & aperture lock" to my Fn1 button, so when I set the desired shutter speed, I just lock it with Fn1 + rear command dial. It works ok, but if I want to change the shutter speed, I need to unlock it first, which is not optimal if I need to react quickly.
  12. Update on this: today I found out that this thin, darker stripe apparently can affect the picture quality. If I shoot with the sun in the scene, it appears that the light enters differently through this slit, reflects inside the dome and shows as a lighter ray of light in the opposite side of the dome. See the attached photo. I've already sent the dome back to the dealer and hopefully it will be replaced with a new one.
  13. What you say makes sense to me. I guess that's why it doesn't show when I look through the dome and is visible only when I look at it from the front and only under a certain angle. Dome is brand new and bought from an authorized dealer, so I guess there should be an option to replace it. I'm still waiting for their reply. Thanks for your answers!
  14. Hey I've bought a glass 140mm dome port and on a close inspection I found a small imperfection in the glass - a straight line. It is not a scratch or a dirt on the surface of the glass (tried wiping it off on both sides) and is visible only on a darker background (for example with the port cover installed) and only under certain angles. If I look through the port, it is not visible, glass seems perfectly clear. I also tried taking photos with it and it doesn't seem to show on the photos. So I'm wondering if this kind of imperfection is normal and nothing to worry about, or should I replace the dome with a new one? I've marked it with the red arrows on the attached photo.
  15. Great stuff, keep up the good work! Idea for a future topic: shooting underwater with a compact camera & related topics (wet lenses, etc.)
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