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Andrej Oblak

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About Andrej Oblak

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    Ljubljana, Slovenia

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  1. If you're planning on shooting wide angle scenes, then go with the strongest one that you can afford. If money is an issue, go with only 1 strong strobe for now and buy the second one when you can afford. Better than buying 2 weak strobes. My recommendation is Inon Z-330. Good price / performance, easy to use underwater (big dials) and reliable.
  2. I shoot RX100 III and it is quite limiting for macro. Macro wet lens is mandatory to reduce the working distance, but then you may run into autofocus issues. At least for my III that's quite a problem, maybe that is improved with VA. But still, with enough patience and cooperative subjects you may produce some nice results. Here are a couple of images that I did with Nauticam CMC-2: https://www.instagram.com/p/CAqdppVFgSe/ https://www.instagram.com/p/CAqeFzPlS9Q/ https://www.instagram.com/p/CDHlvUCHjKv/
  3. If you're not fixed on those 2 only, make sure to check out AOI / Fantasea UWL-09. I think it has better quality build and glass than Bluewater and Dyron, and you can use it with RX100 III-Va with almost no vignetting and with full zoom through capability.
  4. Thanks Chris! What do you think it's the best way of achieving that? Would 4600K diffussers on camera strobes and no diffusser (~5600K) on slave strobe help?
  5. Both of these photos were processed in Lightroom. Originally they had much more green cast, but I managed to eliminate most of it by playing with white balance (moving towards magenta) and especially by moving green and yellow hue sliders to -100 in HSL panel. I'll also try to do the suggested changes in Photoshop. Otherwise one very good example of what I have in mind is the Polish photographer Irena Stangierska. She has that really distinct blue color even in French caves. Here are the Ressel photos: I'd just love to get that color, it looks much nicer than green everywhere.
  6. You make a good point, haven't even though about it. I can easily test this next time by using 4600K diffussers for my Inons, which would be quite a good match to Seacam with its ~4500K temperature.
  7. Hi Recently I've took my photo rig in the cave for the first time. Results were quite satisfying but something that I noticed and it annoys me quite a bit, was that in all of my photos I got this greenish hue from the remote slave strobe. Looking at the photos of some more experienced cave photographers, I see that they manage to capture blue light instead of green. What's the trick to achieve that? It is the temperature of light that remote strobe makes, temperature and/or clarity of water, or simply a lot of postprocessing? Attaching 2 of my photos as an example. Shot with Sony RX100 III, Inon Z-330 strobes attached to the housing and a Seacam Seaflash (I think it was 160, but I'm not sure) as a remote strobe
  8. Hey! My name is Andrej, I come from a small European country Slovenia. I'm diving since 2014, started doing some pretty amateur UW photography back then with a borrowed GoPro. Not something to boast about Through the years I've upgraded my diving skills as well as my photo equipment. So currently I do mostly technical and cave diving. My photo rig consists of Sony RX100 III in Nauticam housing, Inon Z-330 strobes, AOI UWL-09 wet wide angle lens and Nauticam CMC-2 macro diopter. I've been reading this forum for quite some time and finally decided to join. I'm looking on expanding my UW photography knowledge and hopefully also contribute something useful from my limited experience
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