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About newdiver

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  1. Yes, I think the modelling light is in its favour. Retra has gone out of stock for the flashes
  2. Yes, I have been looking at the actual unit and it seems simple enough in the photo. It seems like a straight swap. I am wondering what the real world power difference is between the Retra prime and Pro, I understand that the Pro provides 50% more power, however how much of a difference does it really make? I have been reading an article in the underwaterjournal that talks about the prime being sufficient for both wide and macro shooting.
  3. Ok, thanks. I'm debating whether or not to get the trigger. As it requires a slight modification to the housing. However it does provide TTL and HSS.
  4. Yes, I'm debating whether to get the trigger or not. Do you know if TTL will funding with the Retra converter? Also, how often do people use HSS underwater? Is this a common thing or just the occasional one of shot?
  5. wow, that is kind of what I was expecting and something that I need to look at more closely. One thing that I have learnt is that not getting it right from the start will cost more in the long run, even though the initial cost of the right gear might be more. I am super curious about the Retra Pro with LSD now, and not sure if I need the UWT with my housing? It seems Retra sells the Retra E-Opto Sync Cord Converter. Or am I understanding this wrong?
  6. Snoot is something I would like to try with macro, however it is not something that I am into right now. I am still building my setup and trying to figure things out. I guess with experience and trial one might be able to figure out and offset the modelling light?
  7. Yes, there are no fibre optic ports and it is synchro only. I mentioned fibre optic if I were to get the ttl converter. The cost for the sync cord is around $200 AUD which is still less than the trigger but obviously trigger has the benefit of TTL and HSS, but the Inon flash don't support HSS so it is pointless. I will be fine with manual flash.
  8. Hi, I have got a Seafrogs housing for my Sony a7iii with 16-35mm F4 and the 6" dome port. I have ordered the Sony fe 90mm F2.8 as well. Now I need to get strobes, I was set on the Inon S2000 but they seem underpowered and I want to get it right from the beginning. I am thinking of getting two Inon Z330 because Retras are too expensive. If the recommendation will be the Inon, what should I do with the trigger? It seems the dual synchro cable is expensive vs fibre optic. However then the is turtle trigger option which is also expensive but somewhat a better solution. This lighting is confusing me and I am looking forward to your recommendation. Thanks
  9. Which bayonet mount or adapter do you use? Re point number 2, what is the reason for not changing the lens to use macro in the water? Is it because of the size of the lens or any other reason? What aperture do you use to get sharp images on the LX-10? Do you have to stop down to get sharper image? I have read and the Fantasea 09F has to be stopped down to get good results. Thanks
  10. I guess the only option is to carry both lenses and removing one to use the other in the water, not sure how feasible that would be. I only had a macro lens on my RX100 VI in my last dive and it was easy just to unclip the lens and use the standard port.
  11. WOW, that is huge, it doesn't look big in photos, even if a sturdy flip adapter is used the lens will get in the way of anything you want to do with Macro. Compared to the older version it is massive, bigger than the housing lol
  12. Thanks, finally got a response from Nauticam, they don't know anything about using this with Fantasea housing which is expected. Like you mentioned there will be some vignetting but at what focal length, I will have to find out for myself I guess unless someone else gets to use it and report it. Also I am guessing any bayonet adapter should be fine as long as it is 67mm, is this right? I know Nauticam has mentioned their own specific one but I am not sure if it has to be theirs. I am thinking of getting a dual ring flip one to have both macro and the UWL mounted at the same time.
  13. I see, I thought f5.6 would be the max on 1" sensor, but that is interesting that you are shooting at f8 to achieve overall sharpness. Any experience or info with Nauticam WWL-C? Looks very interesting and hopefully better than UWL-09F. I am still deciding on strobes so will try to go into a dive shop and get the feel for them once the restrictions are lifted.
  14. I have a few more months to make a decision so I am still researching and trying to figure things out that would be best bang for buck. I have also been checking Nauticam WWL-C, it is a bit more expensive than the UWL-09F but being Nauticam and newer it might provide sharper image. I haven't found any info if it is compatible with Fantasea housing and not sure who to ask to confirm. Nauticam only provides compatability with their own housing. It is one expensive hobby though
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