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Floris Bennema

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About Floris Bennema

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    Sea Nettle
  • Birthday 05/23/1953

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  1. I like Tom's 'mathematical' answer that shows that the 'rule' better fits the lens-strobe distance. It shows that in the original rule there would be a very strong overlap of the light of both flashes in the central area, counteracting the even distribution of light. And yes, it's just a starting point for wide angle photography, it should not hamper creative ideas.
  2. Hi, I am interested in your comments on an old rule of thumb on strobe positioning. It says that the distance between the strobes should be the same as the camera distance to the subject. Of course here are strobe positions and supermacro conditions where this rule does not work. However, if the rule generally still holds it would make live easier. What do you think?
  3. Hi Wolfgang, Nice advises anyway, dedicated for these lenses. As the EM5iii has an ISO button, I use "2" to freeze the focus. I use the same lenses but in the sea 'at home' the are to much particles in the water. Didn't use the Pan 45 yet, in bad viz conditions I like to be able to freeze the focus. Floris
  4. Hi Wolfgang, It is not that I am new to manual settings, I am new to dials in UW photography. For many years I changed my exposure and shutter in E-PL's menu's, which is quite a hassle. In covid time I followed Alex online masterclass (outstanding) and can't wait to go underwater again. I guess I can be less concerned with sharp corners using the WWL-1 wet lens. Are you affraid of diffraction at appertures beyond 13 in macro? Which lens do you use? Floris
  5. Hello Karen, It is a sea spider (pycnogonid). I have no idea which species though.
  6. Rhynchostracion´╗┐ ´╗┐nasus lives from Sri Lanka to Palau and south to Australia. It's the other one, Ostracion meleagris.
  7. Hi Waso, I dive there too. It is Pomatoschistus minutus. Pomatoschistus pictus would have had dark dots on the membrane at the base of the first dorsal fin. Your second photo makes the difference.
  8. The meaning: wouldn't it be a good general advise to those who upgrade to a camera with dials.
  9. Yes, sorry for my english, I meant dials.
  10. Probably it's more of a tip for the Beginner Forum, but would like to check what experienced users think of the idea. As a manual mode shooter it is very convenient to have aperture and shutter speed rings. Yet, after I upgraded to a camera with these rings (EPL7 > OMD M5iii), I found the default settings not very intuitive. I had to think twice before I turned the rings, which made me decide to play with the settings. First I changed the configuration to fit the rule that in most cases the shutter speed is used for the background and the aperture for the foreground. The front ring now operates the speed and the ring on the back the aperture. And I found out I like the viewfinder (and photo) to become brighter when I turn a ring to the right. (For the ring on the back I mean to the right with the thumb, by convention the ring now goes to the left). These settings feels intuitive and I see no problem in the decrease of shutter and aperture numbers when turning to the right. Of course it is not a good advice to change your settings once you are accustomed to them, but I think these are ideal settings for first time ring users. Do I overlook a disadvantage fumbling with these ring settings?
  11. Hello, I am from the Neherlands and used uw-compact camera's for many years, here, in other European countries and in tropical waters. A year ago I updated from an Olympus PEN EPL7 to an OMD Mark 5 iii. As waters are dark here, I mostly shoot macro. In the coming years I want to improve my wide angle photography with my WWL-1 lens. Perhaps I should upgrade my flashes as well, currently I have two Sea&Sea ys-01 's .. My gallery: https://zeezoom.nl
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