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TmxDiver last won the day on August 30

TmxDiver had the most liked content!

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About TmxDiver

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    Southern California
  • Interests
    Wreck Diving, Cave Diving, Rebreathers

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  1. I totally agree on the Teric! I usually dive a rEvo and have the Teric as an off-board "oh-crap" computer if my other two on-board computers fail. When I dive open circut, I use my Teric as well. Here is a picture a friend took of me on the Sacramento wreck (70m) in Redondo Beach, CA. You can see my Teric on the left float arm in the picture below. PS - I have no relationship with Shearwater and don't sell any dive equipment. I'm just a satisfied user.
  2. Did you sell this or is it still available?
  3. You mean like monitoring your PO2 & deco, adding O2/Dil, and taking pictures?! Brett
  4. Article about an interesting patent granted to Apple: https://appleinsider.com/articles/20/09/22/future-iphone-could-take-better-underwater-photos-with-automatic-optical-analysis Regards, - brett
  5. Great topic, thanks Adam & Simon! I have a question about the lens discussion. Simon mentioned that the software reads the data embedded into the photo in order to correct for the lens type/distortion. Totally understand that as Lightroom (and other software) can do the same. However, how does (or could) it work with a wet lens? For example, I have a Sony a6400 with the SE1650-PZ lens and the Nauticam WWL-C wet lens. The software would think it was just the native lens. Thanks, - brett
  6. Yes, drysuit diving is "not quite the same." But, quite honestly, I have discovered SOOO many amazing dive sites that are right here in my "backyard" here in SoCal. Here is a section of my blog with photos of some of the AMAZING wrecks and structures I have had the fortune to dive locally this year: https://wreckedinmyrevo.com/category/socal-dive/ If all works out, I'll be diving on a new site this week that has never had divers on it (and taking pictures of course)! Regards, - brett
  7. I'm still pondering the 10-18 rectilinear vs Tokina Fisheye and was doing a little research around weights of various solutions (given your comment above and my experience using the WWL-C). The WWL-C is for sure a heavy chunk of metal & glass and weighs 1.05kg. I don't personally find it too bulky or unwieldy while navigating underwater and it pairs nicely with the Nauticam a6400 housing. I have it mounted on the bayonet mount and it feels "solid." Interestingly enough, the Zen DP-170-N85 II dome weights 1.03kg or essentially exactly the same as the WWL-C. Given that the WWL-C has a built in buoyancy collar, the in-water weight is listed as 0.17kg. The Zen site doesn't provide an in-water weight but I'm guessing it is going to be similar due to the amount of air trapped in the dome. The Nauticam site doesn't list the weight of the 7" acrylic dome, but as you said, it is "very floaty" so I'm not sure that is a good solution either. I just thought folks might find the weight comparison interesting. - brett
  8. Very good points, thanks Chris! I'll try to keep it all "in focus" (hah!) when I'm taking pictures of a destroyer this week. So much to think about -- especially at 80 meters deep with deco time multiplying quickly. I'm planning to get some pictures of the 5" guns which will present a very long depth-of-field picture so we'll see how those come out. I'll plan on focussing closer to the front of the gun as opposed to the turret or further back along the gun. Brett
  9. I've done 4 or 5 dives with mine on a LX-10 and I find I need to zoom in to about 30mm. I could see a slight vignette in my pool tests at 28mm (see the lower left corner in the 28mm photo below vs. 30mm). As Chris says, it is a "mechanical" issue so it could be that you are attaching the WWL-C closer to the port than I am -- but I'm not sure how that would be possible since the only way I know to attach is via the M67 bayonet adapter which just screws directly onto the fixed port of the NA-LX10 housing. First picture is 28mm and second is 30mm.
  10. I use the Nauticam M67 Bayonet II adapter (part 83250): https://www.nauticam.com/products/m67-to-bayonet-converter-ii The reason for not changing mid-dive is size/weight and because I can zoom in with the WWL-C in place (but not true macro). Once you remove it, you have to store it somewhere and hope either the front or rear glass won't get scratched. You could install one of those lens holders on an arm I guess, but it is a pretty heavy piece of equipment. Most of my dives are wrecks and so I dive with the intent of shooting wide angle. If I see the occasional wolf eel or other cool creature, I just zoom in and take the pic. Will it be perfect? Nah, but I'm not shooting for the cover of a magazine either. In terms of aperture, I'm still experimenting. Again, since a lot of my shots involve water or sand around the primary subject, it doesn't matter as much. Also, in Southern California on deep wrecks, I need all the help I can get in terms of light. My general methodology has been: 1. Shoot natural light shots of the overall wreck with a wider open aperture just knowing the corners might be soft but also that they are generally water or sand 2. Shoot closer up features with a light (strobe or video) and close down the aperture. Below is a picture of a turbo supercharger on a P-38 that I shot earlier this week in San Diego. It is 1/80th, f6.3, ISO 1600. You can see that the corners aren't perfect - but my real "focus" is on the supercharger so I don't really care so much. I actually had to stop down the exposure in LR by a full stop. So, in reality, I should have stopped down f8 when I shot the picture. Still learning. This week I've got my Sony a6400 ready to go so I'll be shooting with the WWL-C on that rig instead and we'll see how it works.
  11. I've done a few dives with the WWL-C on a LX-10 (similar enough to the size/weight of the RX100) while waiting to get my a6400 setup complete and it is a big piece of glass. I've got it mounted with the M67 bayonet mount. I agree with the above points and would summarize: 1. I personally wouldn't mount it on a flip adapter. I think it would be to flimsy, especially for the types of dives I do. 2. I would only take on dives where the intention is wide angle. I would not plan on a "presto-change-o" mid-dive to remove the lens and shoot "true" macro on the same dive. 3. I haven't done any serious tests yet, but I believe that if you using a zoom lens, you could get a reasonable fish portrait type shot even with the WWL-C still attached. - brett
  12. Thanks, Chris. Yes, I've been thinking about that option as well and it seems like a good one. If I go that route, I need to decide if I should get the N120 mount version that would allow me to migrate into full frame camera at some point in the future. BTW - Zen now has support page which has links to port charts for different mounts: https://www.zenunderwater.com/pages/support Any thoughts on image quality of the WWL-C/16-50 combo vs. 10-18 behind a glass dome? - brett
  13. Yeah, I'm trying to avoid another checked piece of luggage. Because I'm on a rebreather, I have a Pelican case with the rebreather (rEvo) and then a large duffel bag with all my other gear for technical diving (multiple regs, reels, spools, lights, etc) along with some sturdier camera gear (housing, video lights, arms, etc) and a bit of clothing. All LiOn batteries, computers & camera go into a backpack for carry-on. And that doesn't include a drysuit for cold destinations.... - brett
  14. Nice pictures! Which dome do you use with the 10-18? Right now, my main subject is wrecks and they don't move so fast so I'm not too worried about focus speed (at least for now). Thanks, Brett
  15. Hi, I'm working on putting together a Sony a6400 system with a Nauticam housing. I currently have the WWL-C and the kit SEL1650-PZ lens. I'm thinking about getting a second setup for wide angle and I'm trying to figure out if I should get the dome (Nauticam or Zen) for the Sony 10-18 (I already own the lens) or if I should get the Tokina Fisheye with the associated ports and dome and lens adapter. I shoot a lot of wrecks and other structures underwater to it somewhat makes sense to go with the rectilinear Sony 10-18 but the WWL-C is "kinda" rectilinear already. Also, I'm a technical diver so I need a dome rated to 100m so that rules out the Nauticam 18809 glass dome (60m rated depth) and I'd probably go with the Nauticam 36129 acrylic dome (100m rated depth). On the other hand, since I already have the WWL-C, it might make sense to add a fisheye lens configuration. Before Covid (and presumably after), I do a lot of travel to really remote places (Bikini, Chuuk, etc) and so with this setup, travel would be easier since I wouldn't have to lug around a big dome and could just use the minidome. Thoughts? Thanks, - brett
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