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TmxDiver

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Everything posted by TmxDiver

  1. It may well depend on the lens behind the Wetoptics, but for the Sony 28-60mm I would interpret it this way that the WAPC-C (situated between WWL-1 and WAPC-1 in optical quality) is not worth going for, as the difference between WWL-1 and WAPC-C, if existing, probably must be very, very small... Wolfgang P.S.: I do not think that comparing WWL-1, WAPC-C and WAPC-1 is "apples to oranges", as the final outcome on the image is practically the same (same FOV and distortion), except MAYBE center and corner sharpness. Objective measures are not existing/accessible and different authors have different opinions (The lowest common denominator of different reports is, however, that the differences in IQ is small, if existing). Hence it is totally justified to ask for objective measures of differences in IQ as the differences in size, weight and money to spend are obvious... Thanks for the research. This is enough for me to decide to stick with the WWL-1B and not spend the money for the WACP-C which, in my particular case, would probably have neglible and no noticeable increase in quality. - brett
  2. I'm in exactly the same place. I'm not sure it is worth the money to move from the WWL-1B to the WACP-C. This has to do with current abilities as a photographer as much as it does anything else. I'm just not sure I will see a noticeable difference. But, I would love to see some real-world data comparing the two. - brett
  3. Just FYI, I was able to fit my full frame Nauticam Sony a7rIV housing into the Pelican 1535 by removing the balls (solving the "deep enough" problem) AND the handles (solving the "wide enough" problem). Regards, - brett
  4. As posted earlier, I use the Pelican Air 1535 but I think you will have a hard time fitting a 230mm dome in it along with a FF camera setup. I could be wrong. As a point of reference, I just weighed my Pelican 1535 with my dividers in the case but no equipment and it weighs 10.8 lbs. - brett
  5. Thanks! The wrecks there are so amazing to photograph. - brett
  6. Great! If you want, you can sign up on the blog to get updates whenever I publish (which is usually only about once/week). The Infidel is a fun wreck for sure. If you are going to that depth, consider a goal of diving the UB88 which is a little bit deeper but amazing to dive a WW1 German Sub off Southern California. It is about 190' to the sand and about 165' to the top of the conning tower. - brett
  7. You should definitely go -- it is epic diving with amazing wide angle photographic opportunities. I went in July 2021 and took my rebreather. We were diving the wrecks if Presque Isle which are all about 180-200 ffw. On most dives it was 35 or so minutes on the wreck and a runtime of about 105-120 minutes. Pictures are here: https://wreckedinmyrevo.com/tag/lake-huron/ Regards, - brett
  8. This is exactly what I do. My camera, lenses, and Lithium batteries go in my carry on and my housing, WWL-1B (with hard cap), ports, flash, video lights, etc. all go into a Pelican case with "custom cut" dividers to hold everything in place. The Pelican can be carried on (size is okay, weight is not) or checked and I have options. I've done some pretty serious travel in the past year and never had a problem. Regards, - brett
  9. Thanks. I have to make a small correction. I was getting my kit ready for a dive tomorrow and checked the diffuser and it is the "White Diffuser" and NOT the "Wide Angle Diffuser." - brett
  10. PS - Yes, I know it is an American flag on a Canadian destroyer. Don't ask me... - brett
  11. I was out diving the Yukon in San Diego yesterday playing with my Retra ProX and had the wide angle diffuser. The water was very green (normal for the area) and had a TON of particulate matter in the water. Quite frankly, I'm a bit surprised at how the photos turned out given the conditions. Visibility was probably 6m / 20 feet. The photos below have had a few adjustments in LR but nothing major and I haven't cleaned up any backscatter. I'm not planning to use them for anything other than I was just testing the strobes in those conditions. Regards, - brett
  12. Thanks! It is a Pelican Air 1535: https://www.pelican.com/us/en/product/cases/carry-on-case/air/1535 - brett
  13. One of the reasons I decided on the WWL-1B over two other options I considered (16-35 with 230mm dome and the WACP-1) is the size/weight. Based on the picture posted by @dreifish, I'm glad I made that choice. There are better options from a purely technical standpoint but they come at the "cost" of size/weight and, as usual, there is no free lunch. I have all my primary photo equipment in a small-ish Pelican case that I can either carry on (it is overweight but under max size) or check it if I'm lazy or if I am forced to and it is protected from the vagaries of checked luggage. Picture below: - brett
  14. I have a Sony a7rIV and I would prefer the 16-35 + 230mm dome combo (I shoot a lot of wrecks and prefer rectilinear) but I have the same issue: I don't want to travel with a 230mm dome (along with a rebreather, drysuit, camera gear, dive gear, etc.). At the time, the WACP-C was not available and I didn't want to spend the $$ on the WACP-1 so I went with the WWL-1B. I just checked the port chart for the WWL-1B and I don't see any Nikon full frame lenses listed so you might need the WACP-1 (or the new WACP-C). I don't know the Nikon system, but If I'm reading the WACP-1 port chart correctly It looks like with the 28-70mm Nikon lens you get a FOV of 130 to 59 degrees which seems like a pretty good range. Regards, - brett
  15. Have you considered the WWL-1B? - brett
  16. I get cold easily as well. A coupe data points: 1. The last time I dove in Chuuk, I wore a 3mm and I was fine on all dives except a couple where we had extended run times (2 to 2.5 hours) with a lot of deco where you aren't moving much. 2. Palau has similar water temps and I wore a 3mm in March there and was fine but got a little cold only due to the surface conditions (it was cold and rainy a couple days). 3. I just got back from another trip in Palau and took my 5mm since I knew we would be doing a lot of 2+ hour runtime dives. Most other divers had 3mm (or less) and were fine. Everybody is obviously different, but unless you are doing some long dives, you would probably be fine in a 3mm full suit and bring a hood. If you did get cold, you could probably borrow a shortie or something else to layer. - brett
  17. I don't mind the feedback at all. Two quick notes: 1) I agree with the idea of using the best tools available -- subject to a cost/benefit analysis. For example, I was using Big Blue lights and recently bought some Keldan 8x 18k lights. They are far superior and produce light which has no hard edges, the color is nicer, etc. However, they also cost about 2x the Big Blue lights. 2) In terms of the WACP, it is a cost/benefit analysis for me. It probably would have been a better image but it weights ~3x a WWL-1B (on land) and costs ~ 4x (?) a WWL1-B and I'm not sure the image would be 4x better. I'm also often traveling so weight and size matter (in addition to being a factor in the conditions/places I'm often diving with current and small places). For me personally, the cost/benefit equation doesn't work and I have considered "upgrading" to the WACP. If somebody were to loan me one and asked me to evaluate it for deep wreck diving, I'd do it. - brett PS - @adamhanlon I am curious as to why the WACP would be "easier to use" than the WWL-1B?
  18. @TimG - Agreed. Here is a recent photo of the bow of the HMS Southwold in Malta (~ 65m). Could it be better? Yup, you bet. I had to boost shadows to get the starboard side of the bow a bit better defined which brought out some backscatter against the bow and the sand. The corners are probably blurred but does it matter? Not really IMHO. I wish the diver was a little closer and more in focus but I was dealing with depth of field issues. It is meant to evoke a feeling and I think it does a reasonable job of that. We were at the end of our dive heading back to the downline and had over an hour of deco to do but I wanted to get the shot. Setup is a Sony a7rIV with the WWL1-B. 28mm, 1/60th, f 9.0, ISO 800. I had Retra strobes but was shooing natural light. - brett
  19. Within reason. Generally, I'm trying to identify features that are in the center of the frame (e.g., number of cylinders in an engine, number of oil coolers, name or number on a boat, hub design on a landing gear, etc.). Also, given the type of photographs I take, the corners are often either water or sand. That doesn't mean I don't want good gear to take photos it just means I personally value the center of the frame more than the edges for what I'm doing. This is the reason that I generally shoot with the WWL-C or WWL-1B. Could I get sharper corners with a 230mm dome and good high-quality wide angle lens? Most likely. Would I want to haul that thing around and then also try to do some of the penetration I do into shipwrecks? Heck no. I also prefer rectilinear for what I shoot which adds complexity. I don't get that with the WWL lenses but they are not nearly as distorted as a fisheye either. - brett
  20. I think it is highly individualistic and somewhat dependent upon the situation and conditions. I dive almost exclusively on wrecks and lately have been finding, researching, and documenting new wrecks in Southern California. https://wreckedinmyrevo.com/category/new-discovery/ We just found a new P-38 that crashed nearly 80 years ago in Nov 1943 that I will be posting about on Monday with detailed pictures and a photogrammetry model. Conditions here in Southern California can be "iffy" at best sometimes (dark, current, cold, lot of particulate matter, deep, etc). Plus, you never even know what you will find. One time we thought the target was an airplane and it ended up being a whale fall. How can you plan for that? https://wreckedinmyrevo.com/2021/08/11/loras-point-loma-whalefall-point-loma-180-fsw/ Under the above conditions, my primary "job" is to keep myself alive. 90m+ deep in 50F water with deco accumulating fast, my primary concern isn't if I have some backscatter. However, when I'm diving in a location with warmer water and amazing visibility, then I tend to spend more time working on photos -- even if it means more deco. Examples are my recent wreck diving trips to Palau, Vis Croatia, and Malta (all are fully documented on the above blog site). So, to sum it up, I think the answer as usual is "it depends...." and some of that is the "why" you are taking the pictures. - brett
  21. Perfect, thanks for the detailed answer @Phil Rudin.
  22. @Phil Rudin Thanks for the update, Phil. I just took a quick look at the Nauticam N100 port chart and didn't see this lens listed. What port did you use it with (if you were using Nauticam) when you had the S&S correction lens attached? I'm assuming one of the N100-N120 ports? - brett
  23. For me, pictures inside a wreck when using a flash (and not continuous video light). - brett
  24. I use the Fisheye Fix Neo Mini 1000 SWR. It is pretty close to what you want: 100 degree in wide mode (vs 120) 30 degree in spot mode (vs 10) Integrated red mode It has a YS adapter that I put a ball mount onto. I'm pretty sure it uses an 18650 battery (I usually just plug mine into the micro USB port to charge the battery) In addition, it also has different power output levels (100-75-50-25) and has an auto shut-off mode that detects the flash and turns of for a second or two. I find it very compact and easy to use. - brett
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