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TmxDiver

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Everything posted by TmxDiver

  1. These housings are "bomb proof": https://iqsub.com/gopro-housings/ I've had them down to 100m+. - brett
  2. Hi, If you send me a DM with your contact info (email and mobile), I can try giving you a call at some point tomorrow. It might be easier to discuss live. A few comments based on your post: 1) I would not try to do a multi-dive project to begin with. Pick something simple that you can do in one dive. Even if it is just a portion of a wreck. 2) Yes - getting out to the Midnight Hour might not be easy and you might want to dive your target and think about how you would make a model before you do the dive to make the model. Have you thought about doing a feature or small section on the Yukon? Boats go there every week and the top of the wreck is at about 65 fsw and the sand about 105 fsw. 3) For lenses, I personally prefer wide angle rectilinear but generally shoot with either the WWL-C or WWL-1B. You can toss out the macro lenses for anything to do with photogrammetry. That being said, there are a few things to keep in mind: 3a) Metashape will do lens corrections so if you use a fisheye, it will compensate (to a certain degree) for the barrel distortion. I'm not sure if there is lens correction profile for the 8mm f3.5 fisheye you have and I don't even really know if there is a canonical database of what Metashape does have profiles for. 3b) With the usual conditions in California, the reason it helps to have a wide angle or fisheye is that you can get closer to your target and illuminate it better and still get a decent amount of "coverage" in each photo. You will typically need about a 50-70% overlap of the photos for the alignment process. Both Becky and I generally shoot with video lights and not strobes due to the number of pictures we take on a single dive. Regards, - brett
  3. PS - I would also recommend practicing on land before you get in the water.
  4. Hi, I actually haven't dove the Midnight Hour (yet). Not sure why other than it is shallow and I tend to dive the deeper wrecks. However, I did see a video on-line and there is one thing that I noticed that could make your task hard: kelp on the wreck that is moving. I'm facing this issue right now as I work on a model of the entire Yukon wreck. I'm not sure if that is a seasonal thing or permanent. But, kelp moving around will complicate building a model. It is definitely not too small for model. I've build models of much smaller. For example, there is a Piper airplane on the front side of Catalina that I did early in my photogrammetry: https://wreckedinmyrevo.com/2020/12/21/piper-warrior-photogrammetry-model-130-feet-catalina-island/ I recently posted a presentation of some photogrammetry basics that might be of some use: https://wreckedinmyrevo.com/2022/10/12/presentation-photogrammetry-a-primer/ Most of my photogrammetry information, models, etc is at: https://wreckedinmyrevo.com/category/photogrammetry/ There are some challenges with the environment here is SoCal (dark, particulate matter, etc.) that will complicate things in general but if you are patient, you will figure it out. Also, you can always start by building a model of "part" of a wreck. I did that with the Yukon guns and prop as I was learning. Good luck, - brett
  5. You might want to consider small travel fins like the Scubapro Go. They will save a lot of space and potentially weight for carry on sized luggage. - brett
  6. I'm not sure if it still happens on a regular basis, but if you do a "dawn patrol" dive and get in the water really early right before the sun comes up, there are bumphead parrotfish that congregate at the stern of the Liberty I got some photos but it was before I was really getting into photography.
  7. You might want to check out this website (if you are planning to use Lightroom): https://www.goaskerin.com I've taken a few of her classes and was attending the live events during the beginning of Covid. They are very well done. - brett
  8. I have actually removed my WWL1-B a few times during a dive (rarely, but I have). I don't have the bridge setup or even a bracket I put it on. Most people would consider me nuts, but what I do is that I dive with the hard plastic cap with a section of cave line tied to a bolt snap. When I want to remove the lens, I put the cap on (and make sure it is secure) and the bolt snap is snapped onto a ring on the housing handle. I then remove the lens and let it "dangle" below my setup. I know, crazy, but it works. Note that I have never done this when I'm on a wall and I'm not somewhere I could retrieve the lens if something went wrong. - brett
  9. It may well depend on the lens behind the Wetoptics, but for the Sony 28-60mm I would interpret it this way that the WAPC-C (situated between WWL-1 and WAPC-1 in optical quality) is not worth going for, as the difference between WWL-1 and WAPC-C, if existing, probably must be very, very small... Wolfgang P.S.: I do not think that comparing WWL-1, WAPC-C and WAPC-1 is "apples to oranges", as the final outcome on the image is practically the same (same FOV and distortion), except MAYBE center and corner sharpness. Objective measures are not existing/accessible and different authors have different opinions (The lowest common denominator of different reports is, however, that the differences in IQ is small, if existing). Hence it is totally justified to ask for objective measures of differences in IQ as the differences in size, weight and money to spend are obvious... Thanks for the research. This is enough for me to decide to stick with the WWL-1B and not spend the money for the WACP-C which, in my particular case, would probably have neglible and no noticeable increase in quality. - brett
  10. I'm in exactly the same place. I'm not sure it is worth the money to move from the WWL-1B to the WACP-C. This has to do with current abilities as a photographer as much as it does anything else. I'm just not sure I will see a noticeable difference. But, I would love to see some real-world data comparing the two. - brett
  11. Just FYI, I was able to fit my full frame Nauticam Sony a7rIV housing into the Pelican 1535 by removing the balls (solving the "deep enough" problem) AND the handles (solving the "wide enough" problem). Regards, - brett
  12. As posted earlier, I use the Pelican Air 1535 but I think you will have a hard time fitting a 230mm dome in it along with a FF camera setup. I could be wrong. As a point of reference, I just weighed my Pelican 1535 with my dividers in the case but no equipment and it weighs 10.8 lbs. - brett
  13. Thanks! The wrecks there are so amazing to photograph. - brett
  14. Great! If you want, you can sign up on the blog to get updates whenever I publish (which is usually only about once/week). The Infidel is a fun wreck for sure. If you are going to that depth, consider a goal of diving the UB88 which is a little bit deeper but amazing to dive a WW1 German Sub off Southern California. It is about 190' to the sand and about 165' to the top of the conning tower. - brett
  15. You should definitely go -- it is epic diving with amazing wide angle photographic opportunities. I went in July 2021 and took my rebreather. We were diving the wrecks if Presque Isle which are all about 180-200 ffw. On most dives it was 35 or so minutes on the wreck and a runtime of about 105-120 minutes. Pictures are here: https://wreckedinmyrevo.com/tag/lake-huron/ Regards, - brett
  16. This is exactly what I do. My camera, lenses, and Lithium batteries go in my carry on and my housing, WWL-1B (with hard cap), ports, flash, video lights, etc. all go into a Pelican case with "custom cut" dividers to hold everything in place. The Pelican can be carried on (size is okay, weight is not) or checked and I have options. I've done some pretty serious travel in the past year and never had a problem. Regards, - brett
  17. Thanks. I have to make a small correction. I was getting my kit ready for a dive tomorrow and checked the diffuser and it is the "White Diffuser" and NOT the "Wide Angle Diffuser." - brett
  18. PS - Yes, I know it is an American flag on a Canadian destroyer. Don't ask me... - brett
  19. I was out diving the Yukon in San Diego yesterday playing with my Retra ProX and had the wide angle diffuser. The water was very green (normal for the area) and had a TON of particulate matter in the water. Quite frankly, I'm a bit surprised at how the photos turned out given the conditions. Visibility was probably 6m / 20 feet. The photos below have had a few adjustments in LR but nothing major and I haven't cleaned up any backscatter. I'm not planning to use them for anything other than I was just testing the strobes in those conditions. Regards, - brett
  20. Thanks! It is a Pelican Air 1535: https://www.pelican.com/us/en/product/cases/carry-on-case/air/1535 - brett
  21. One of the reasons I decided on the WWL-1B over two other options I considered (16-35 with 230mm dome and the WACP-1) is the size/weight. Based on the picture posted by @dreifish, I'm glad I made that choice. There are better options from a purely technical standpoint but they come at the "cost" of size/weight and, as usual, there is no free lunch. I have all my primary photo equipment in a small-ish Pelican case that I can either carry on (it is overweight but under max size) or check it if I'm lazy or if I am forced to and it is protected from the vagaries of checked luggage. Picture below: - brett
  22. I have a Sony a7rIV and I would prefer the 16-35 + 230mm dome combo (I shoot a lot of wrecks and prefer rectilinear) but I have the same issue: I don't want to travel with a 230mm dome (along with a rebreather, drysuit, camera gear, dive gear, etc.). At the time, the WACP-C was not available and I didn't want to spend the $$ on the WACP-1 so I went with the WWL-1B. I just checked the port chart for the WWL-1B and I don't see any Nikon full frame lenses listed so you might need the WACP-1 (or the new WACP-C). I don't know the Nikon system, but If I'm reading the WACP-1 port chart correctly It looks like with the 28-70mm Nikon lens you get a FOV of 130 to 59 degrees which seems like a pretty good range. Regards, - brett
  23. Have you considered the WWL-1B? - brett
  24. I get cold easily as well. A coupe data points: 1. The last time I dove in Chuuk, I wore a 3mm and I was fine on all dives except a couple where we had extended run times (2 to 2.5 hours) with a lot of deco where you aren't moving much. 2. Palau has similar water temps and I wore a 3mm in March there and was fine but got a little cold only due to the surface conditions (it was cold and rainy a couple days). 3. I just got back from another trip in Palau and took my 5mm since I knew we would be doing a lot of 2+ hour runtime dives. Most other divers had 3mm (or less) and were fine. Everybody is obviously different, but unless you are doing some long dives, you would probably be fine in a 3mm full suit and bring a hood. If you did get cold, you could probably borrow a shortie or something else to layer. - brett
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