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Everything posted by TmxDiver

  1. Sorry to hear. That definitely sucks. That is one reason I put my bolt snap on the camera housing so that when I detach it from the lens, it isn't going anywhere (and I don't have to attach and detach it from me). If you had the bolt snap tight against the cap and not on a bungee or piece of cave line (similar to what @keesbl did), then I'm guessing the hard cap got wedged and the bolt snap opened. This is something that is very common when people put double enders on spools and don't do it "the right way." It is really easy for a bolt snap or double ender to get wedged in the right way and "pop off." There are definitely advantages to using a neoprene cover. I personally like the hard cover due to the type of diving I do, but it does have downsides. Plus, as somebody else mentioned, I guess Nauticam only intended it to be used during transport/travel and not during diving. - brett
  2. I've been reading some of the other previous threads on tripods, but they are generally about tripods for housings & cameras. I recently got two new Keldan video lights and I want to start using my older video lights for off-board lighting (wrecks). I've done this in the past but just placed the light on the sand or inside the wreck but it doesn't always work well. What are people using (tripods?) for placing off-board video lights (mine are pretty heavy - Big Blue CBP 15k). Thanks, - brett
  3. I've done something similar with a bolt snap but also a little different. My bolt snap is on a small piece of cave line that is attached through a hole I drilled. I also have the WWL-C and not the -1 or -1B. Given the amount of gear, bailout bottles, etc. I dive with, I also feel better having the hard cap on for the dive. The reason I have the extra line is that I keep the bolt snap attached to my Nauticam housing setup. There are a few small brackets with holes and I attach the bolt snap to that. When I get to the bottom, I take off the cap and then just "let it go" knowing that it is attached to the housing and won't get "lost." Two additional thoughts: 1) I have had a really hard time removing the cap at depth due to the vacuum effect I believe. While I don't cherish the idea of drilling more holes into the cap, I do like the idea from @keesbl since it will make it a LOT easier to remove at depth. 2) The length of my cave line is such that the cap can be on the wet lens and also connected to the housing. The downside is that it "floats" and sometimes gets in the way. I've thought about weighting it a little bit with tire weights so that it always is negative and below the GoPro I mount on top of my housing. In addition, I also wear dry gloves on all my dives and have no problems operating the small bolt snap, but I also have plenty of practice given all the gear I carry on my dives. - brett
  4. Good idea. But, as you say, it is pretty expensive. I would also have to make sure I have a "free" port on my Nauticam housing that fits that bulkhead. I guess I could also open up the housing and plug in an external charger to the camera. That would at least alleviate the need to remove the dome/port/lens, etc. Still not ideal. But, luckily, I now have my cable back. - brett
  5. It is more about the latter. I sometimes use the Sony 10-18mm lens and that means I can't remove the camera without removing the front port/dome. If the battery runs low or if I want to make sure I have enough power, that means removing the port/dome, removing the lens from the camera body, removing the camera from the housing, putting in a new battery and then reversing the whole thing. Doing all that on a boat moving around on the Pacific Ocean is not a really appealing idea. The good news is that I randomly found the cable that I had randomly lost! - brett
  6. Yep. I got an email from them after I ordered it basically saying "it was out of stock" and that they were trying to get it. So, we'll see what happens. I think my lesson is that I shouldn't rely on third party kludge solutions.... - brett
  7. As a quick follow-up, Nauticam put up a link to buy a replacement cable. Amazing customer service. https://www.nauticam.com/products/replacement-usb-cable-for-36332-battery-pack Regards, - brett
  8. Thanks @Barmaglot! I need to do a little more research as well. I seem to remember that my cable had a small little circuit board on the USB end that went into the battery and I wonder if it was because of the power problems mentioned in this thread on Wetpixel back in 2017: If I remember correctly and there was a small circuit board, I'm wondering if it was used to keep the battery pack alive after it was connected to the camera and if a "standard" USB cable wouldn't work. I'll send an email to Nauticam and see what I can learn. Regards, - brett
  9. Somehow, I have managed to lose the cable for my Nauticam NA-36332 battery pack for my Sony a-6400. I have torn apart my garage looking for it and even enlisted the help of my wife who can usually spot things a mile (1.6km) away and even she can't find it. Normally, this would not be a problem. However, Nauticam has discontinued the product which means I cannot buy another battery + cable just to get the cable. I've searched Amazon but have been unable to find a suitable replacement with two right angles on the cable and a short distance cable to fit inside the housing. I've included a picture below of the product. Any ideas?
  10. Yup, the USS Hogan is a great wreck. Here are some more pictures and some historical information: https://wreckedinmyrevo.com/2020/08/06/uss-hogan-dd-178/ - brett
  11. I think you and I have the same camera (a6400)? I personally don't try to remove the WWL-C underwater. For any given dive, once it is on, it is on. It can obviously be removed, but I almost exclusively shoot wide angle so I don't worry about it. I mention that because I didn't buy bayonet holders. Here is what I bought and use with the 16-50 lens and WWL-C: NA-36172 : SE1650-PZ Gear NA-36228 : N85 Macro Port 40 with knob (allows zooming the lens) NA-83250 : M67 to Bayonet Mount Converter II NA-82203 : WWL-C Note that you will need to zoom the lens to 17mm to avoid any vignetting. The vignette is very minimal at 16mm but it does exist. - brett
  12. A zip tie (or two for safety) should work wonders in the meantime. My guess is that the "pin" that is the bottom of the shackle somehow got a little loose and over time unscrewed. If you don't plan on unscrewing it often, you could always add some Loctite on the threads and the re-assemble it. - brett
  13. I've done quite a bit of diving on the Marissa and highly recommend it. Lora (owner) & Chris (DM) are great. Conditions on the Yukon are definitely variable in terms of current, vis, etc. - brett
  14. I regularly dive at those depths and, at least here in California, there isn't much natural light. Even if there is some natural light where you are planning to dive, the colors will all be washed out and shades of blue at that depth without any artificial light so any CFWA shots won't highlight whatever is in the "close" range. My guess is that without any artificial light, you will have to really boost ISO (resulting in grainy photos) and/or open up the aperture resulting in blurry corners (as you mention). I usually dive with a Sony a6400, the 10-18 lens and the 7" dome port (along with my rebreather, multiple stages, reels, strobes, etc.). Sometimes I use the 16-50 "kit lens" and the WWL-C. Either way, I always bring artificial light. - brett
  15. I posted some pictures earlier in the discussion (30 Aug 2020) at 28mm and 30mm. Below is a picture at 24mm and you can definitely see the vignetting.
  16. Just remember that you need to adhere to the "lowest" depth rating of all components in the system. I believe most Nauticam housing are rated to 100m unless you get some special seals put in them. Also, some of the larger domes are depth rated to 60m. One of the reasons I got the N85 7" acrylic dome instead of the 180mm glass dome is the 60m depth rating on the latter.
  17. https://7till8.com/ I have a 3mm dive wetsuit with integrated hood from them.
  18. I've seen 160g and 190g dry weight. It is pretty light, especially in the water. I don't even notice it when I have it clipped off on a D ring.
  19. Of course! My brain spaced out for a bit there with the 24 mm FF equivalent on the APS-C for the WWL-C and the 28mm on the FF for the WWL-1(B). That article is definitely on my list to read. I downloaded it 1-2 weeks ago but "life got in the way" along with a MOD3 cave rebreather course which I recently completed. Thanks, Phil. - brett
  20. What if you factor in using the WWL-1(B)? It seems like the "ultimate" system would be the A7c with the new upcoming FE 24mm prime? The F/2.8 is nice above water but doesn't matter much under water. Thoughts? - brett
  21. I have the iQsub case for the GoPro 7 and it is "bombproof." I've had it to at least 260 fsw. It is very simple to use and to know that it is sealed. I never have to worry about it no matter how much gear I have and no matter what it can bang into. I take it on almost every dive either clamped to the top of my camera housing to shoot video or clipped off on a D ring if I'm not taking my camera. I'm not associated with iQsub but I highly recommend their housings.
  22. Hi, I just got back from my MOD3 rebreather course at Eagles Nest cave so I've been offline for about a week working on that. Anyway, here are some posts on my blog site with photos taken with the WWL-C and the Sony 16-50 "kit" lens. Some of them have objects in the corners so you can get an idea of the sharpness and some of them are relatively deep in cold, dark waters in California. If you want specific settings for any of the photos, just let me know which one(s). All of these photos were taken with the WWL-C. F4D in Santa Monica Bay @ 205 fsw: https://wreckedinmyrevo.com/2021/02/12/f4d-skyray-santa-monica-bay-205-fsw/ Vashon / USS Cockatoo at Catalina Island @ 150 fsw https://wreckedinmyrevo.com/2021/01/24/uss-cockatoo-amc-8-the-vashon-catalina-150-fsw/ Nightingale in San Pedro @ 145 fsw https://wreckedinmyrevo.com/2021/02/25/the-nightingale-san-pedro-145-fsw/ SBD Dauntless in San Diego @ 195 fsw https://wreckedinmyrevo.com/2021/02/06/sbd-3-dauntless-san-diego-195-fsw/ - brett
  23. I've had my Vaquita a while but have only used it a couple times. I had the original Paralenz and used it relatively often so I'm familiar with the form factor, features, etc. I've noticed a few things about the Vaquita: 1. Battery life doesn't seem to be great. My "normal" use case was mounting it on my camera housing to take video footage as a backup while I was taking stills. Most of my dives are deeper and so the bottom time is usually 20-25 minutes a dive and the battery would drain rather quickly. I don't (yet) have any scientific data on that but something I observed. 2. The image stabilization doesn't seem great. They were fixing this in firmware and it still seems like it isn't as good as a GoPro. This is also something I'm assuming they will improve over time. 3. I did a shallow shore dive (30-50 feet probably) a couple months ago to test it out again and I took still pictures. I could very well have had something incorrectly configured, but I noticed that it appeared to favor slower shutter speed to get a lower ISO. The result was blurred images. I'm not a great photographer, but I'm not that bad! (BTW, this was with the latest firmware available at the time (mid-Feb 2021). Below is an example which was 1/30th, f 2.8, ISO 159 I have been working on a lot of other projects and really haven't had much time to work on figuring out what is going on with it or reporting bugs, etc. And, it is possible I'm doing something wrong. I've attached an image from a GoPro 7 from the same dive area at about the same depth. The GoPro is at 1/250th, f 2.8, ISO 524. Neither of the files has any post processing. - brett
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