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TmxDiver

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Everything posted by TmxDiver

  1. Hi, The Blue Caverns are very well known. Pretty much any boat that goes to Catalina will know about that site. There are different caverns at different depths but they range from about 80 feet to about 40 feet (from memory). I think the location of the Piper is also well known. It is in the same general area if I remember. Around Bird Rock / Ship Rock. - brett
  2. Sounds good, nice to (sort of) meet you! There are a lot of really cool wreck dives here in Southern California which are just at the edge of recreational limits so if you like wreck diving it would make sense to look into technical diving. My blog at http://wreckedinmyrevo.com has a section for "So Cal Dive Reports" and each of them has a depth listed. Most are below recreational, but if you look through them, some are right at the edge (e.e., P-38 in San Diego, Piper at Catalina, etc.) Regards, - brett
  3. I think you are better off having a "model" use some video lights to highlight the wreck and then take the picture from a distance. My friend Drew and I have been doing this on a relatively deep submarine (57m / 190') here in Southern California and, IMO, the results are great. You can view his pictures at : https://www.drewwilsonphotography.com/Wrecks-and-Artificial-Reefs/UB88/ Regards, - brett
  4. Really nice editing. Great mixture of drone, above water, and under water footage along with a good music track. I've never had the patience to do video editing, The Revillagigedo Islands are magical. I went a few years ago and will go back again at some point. Glad to hear you didn't get hit with the camera housing tax. - brett
  5. Special indeed: "The Alpha 1 will ship in March, priced at $6,500." - brett
  6. Maybe this: https://wetpixel.com/articles/nauticam-ships-wwl-1b - brett
  7. Okay, you meant the Turtle trigger specifically. I hadn't read that into your post. - brett
  8. Even with bailout or deco bottles on your right side? I always clip mine off to a chest D ring so that it doesn't get in the way of my bailout bottle, reg & hose, etc. -- especially if I had to hand off a bottle to a team member. I can just envision the chaos that would ensue if a coiled lanyard got caught on a reg or reg hose on a deco or bailout bottle. It would be on the right side bottle so you hopefully would have some time to figure it out, but still... - brett
  9. For sure For sure. Thanks, Chris. If I end up going that route, I'll post some pictures and let people know how it works out. - brett
  10. I heard back from Nauticam but was diving all day yesterday. The said it will definitely work with the Sony a6xxx series and the Canon 8-15 FE. They recommend: 36207 N815 to N120 Adaptor + 19537 Zoom Gear + 21130 30mm Extension Ring + 18811 140mm Glass Dome Alternatively, the 18811 140mm dome could be swapped with either the 18802 8.5" acrylic dome or the 18812 230mm Glass Dome. I know it isn't as good as a solution as using the larger domes, but if I do decide to go this route I'll probably go with the 140mm dome given my propensity to travel. - brett
  11. Thanks, Chris. The Backscatter port finder has a few different options, but when using the N120 140mm dome port with the Sony FF N100 port, it says to use the 35.5mm N100-N120 adaptor and the 30mm extension ring which would total 65.5mm. I've sent an email off to Nauticam via the website form to see if they have a recommendation. Interestingly enough, when I was browsing through their website, I found a N85 dome specific to the Canon 8-15 FE lens: https://www.nauticam.com/collections/n85-ports/products/4-33-dome-port-for-canon-ef-eos-m-adaptor-and-ef-8-15mm-f-4l-fisheye-usm It is obviously designed for the Canon APS-C which is also uses a N85 port and I would have to account for the depth of the Metabones or Sigma converter, but that might just require putting a simple extension ring in and then using that dome. If I hear back from Nauticam on a specific recommendation, I'll post it here. - brett
  12. For a Sony camera body (both a6400 and a7rIV) and either a Canon 8-15mm FE or the Tokina 10-17mm FE, which adapter would you recommend and why? I've watched a few videos on the pros/cons of each, but they are based on topside photography. The basic take-away from those is that if you are going to shoot with a Sigma lens on the Sony body, get the Sigma adapter (makes sense). Otherwise, get the Metabones v5. The Metabones is more expensive but if the price difference ($250) weren't an issue, which would you pick and why? - brett
  13. Yes, but of course! Thanks for the tips and follow-up, Tim. I just preemptively pushed out my June 2021 Bikini trip to Aug 2022 to get a guaranteed seat so maybe I'll spend my 2021 budget on a new Canon lens, dome port, and adapter (I'll start a new thread on the adapter part). Thanks, - brett
  14. Thanks, Tim. Yeah, that is my theory and there is a reasonably good chance I'll get a housing for my FF in the next 12-18 months. If I can't spend my money on dive trips (my April trip to the Oriskany canceled this week and I think my June Bikini Atoll trip is now on the chopping block), then I might as well spend it on camera gear and stay local. Two follow-up questions, if you don't mind: 1. Which dome do you use with the D500 and the Nikkor 8-15 and which dome for the Tokina 10-17? 2. When do you decide to use one vs. the other on a dive? I.e., if the Canon is a much better lens, when would you use the Tokina instead? Thanks, - brett
  15. Normally, I would get the Tokina and call it a day. However, I also have a Sony a7r4 that I use for above water. I'm considering taking the plunge (as it were) and getting a housing at some point in the next year or two. If I were to do that, the Canon would be the right choice for that camera. So, with an upgrade path in mind, I could get the Canon lens/adapter and protect that investment. Any thoughts? Is anybody using the Canon with a Sony APS-C camera? If so, what port & dome setup for a Nauticam housing? The Nauticam Sony N85 port chart doesn't list the Canon lens (hence, it might not even be a good idea to begin with). Thanks, - brett
  16. Very good point, thanks John. - brett
  17. I dive a rEvo rebreather and it uses PG7 glands to route DiveCAN cables through the case and into the counterlungs to the O2 sensors and other electronics. https://www.revo-rebreathers.com/product/r430-pg7-cable-gland-with-o-ring/ I wonder if that could work? It can definitely handle the depth requirements. I think the biggest question would be whether you could drill the hole in the case in a "flat" area with threads and have enough room inside for the cable. And, of course, I'm not sure what the diameter of a HDMI cable is vs DiveCan or whether they sell PG7 glands for different size diameter cables. I'm guessing they do. - brett
  18. Here is a picture taken at f/8 with the WWL-C. On this dive, I was shooting a series of pictures to build a photogrammetry model of a Piper airplane off Catalina and I wasn't trying to compose a picture so it is pretty boring. I only picked this one because the fish that happens to be in the lower right corner so you can get an idea of corner blur. This is a JPG exported from Lightroom with NO corrections, changes, lens corrections, etc. 17mm (WWL-C), ISO 1000, f/8, 1/60th - brett PS - The model came out pretty good as well. https://wreckedinmyrevo.com/2020/12/21/piper-warrior-photogrammetry-model-130-feet-catalina-island/ https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/piper-warrior-wreck-catalina-island-c2ae4ca202364aa2b1e8ec35f511e62a
  19. My pleasure! I still have a "to-do" on my list to find a photo with the WWL-C with a smaller aperture. It is interesting to see what is possible at f/3.5. Happy New Year (since you are already into 2021 in Sydney). - brett
  20. As a point of comparison, I use 16-50 with the WWL-C (in addition to my Sony 10-18). It isn't exactly the same as the WWL-1 but it is obviously similar. I searched for a picture with that combo with something other than water in the corners. I've attached an example that gives you an idea of the corners. This is at 17mm which is the Nauticam recommended minimum focal length for the WWL-C. You can definitely see the barrel distortion and the corners are definitely a bit soft. BUT, this is at f/3.5. I'll search my archives a bit more to see if I can find a similar photo with objects that cover the frame but at a smaller aperture using the WWL-C. - brett
  21. I think I caused a little confusion. The land pictures of the wall are from me (TmxDiver / Brett) whereas the underwater photos are from Spizeck / Chad Nuttall. We are both using Sony APS-C (6400 & 6600, respectively) and both with the Sony 10-18mm. I have the "one piece" Nauticam acrylic dome (i.e., extension built in) and he has the Nauticam glass dome. - brett
  22. I just took some "quick and dirty" test shots with mine. It wasn't the ideal subject but it was all I had that was nearby. It is truly amazing how wide angle a rectilinear 10mm APS-C lens is. I really wish I had a big, flat brick wall close to my house but I live in Southern California and those aren't very common. This wall was slanted and it was hard to get close enough on a tripod to get perfect pictures. I also thought I had it at 10mm but it was at 11mm focal length but it will have to do for now. Here are three sections (center, lower left, lower right) with a screenshot showing the crop area. These are all at f6.3. There is some blur in the corners, but not too bad. I also have shots at other apertures if anybody wants to see them (f5.6, f7, f8, etc) or I can post the RAW if anybody wants it. My conclusion from this quick "hack" of a test is that, at least in my case, a majority of any corner blur is due to the underwater conditions and dome. If I had the time, I'd find a pool with a lot of tile and do some underwater testing but that will have to wait.
  23. I have the same lens on an a6400 and use the acrylic dome (due to depth requirements) and shoot under much worse conditions so it is hard to compare. A few thoughts: 1. I took a look at other photos in your photo stream and it seems like the corners are better at 14mm (which is to be expected) so with that lens/dome combo it might just need either a higher f-stop than f/11 or a bigger dome or cropping. 2. As Interceptor121 says, maybe try shooting a brick wall on land at different apertures and focal lengths to see if/when it breaks down. I might try that myself on my lens/camera combo to see what happens. 3. It is interesting that it is always the lower left corner that is the worse. In most photos the upper corners are blue water (which makes sense) but it also makes it little hard to do a comparison. However, the lower right corner does not look as bad. I wonder if it might be the dome. Going back to #2 above, at least get a baseline on land without any of the underwater issues. I'm definitely curious to see what happens and if I get a chance to shoot mine on land, I'll post the results. - brett
  24. I think it is generally a good idea with a couple caveats (I'm not an instructor but I do a lot of technical diving): The first is that, as with any new equipment configuration, you should practice switching regulators yourself on a "regular" basis until you develop muscle memory. It is a different configuration than what you were taught. Second, your buddy should know how the system works. You would be donating a regulator that you are currently using and this is different than the "standard" spare regulator configuration. Your buddy could forget to signal you and then come over and try to "find the yellow hose and/or regulator" and not realize that you are currently using the regulator he/she is going to need. Panicky divers do crazy things.... If you have a regular buddy that you dive with, then practice donating gas with that configuration. Third, consider hose length. Long hoses generally come in 60, 72, and 84 inch lengths. If you are only doing open water dives (i.e., no overhead environments), then the 7 foot hose length might be overkill. Make sure that whatever length you use, find good hose routing to minimize hoses dangling out in the open water where they can get snagged. - brett
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