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Posts posted by The_Darkness

  1. Hello,
    Does anyone know what the two holes are for on the battery to the right? 
    The battery came with my Sherwood ST1000 dive light and is marked as "IT-18650-A." I had bought two extras from B&H, which are identical except for the "-A" and these two holes. The new batteries work just fine. I'm curious if they're for some sort of pressure relief if it gets hot or perhaps just nothing at all. Thoughts? TIA



  2. 9 hours ago, adamhanlon said:

    We add a few ideas here:


    Thanks Adam. I just watched that today. Good stuff!

    2 hours ago, ChrisRoss said:

    I'm a fan of using relatively low power lights for focus lights/dive lights, your eyes will adapt provided you don't have too many other divers with you who like to bring daylight UW with massive lumen output lights.  Just mount the light on your camera using either a YS mount or ball clamp system.  A moderate beam spread seems to work fine, with maybe a 60° beam.    I use this one:  http://www.inon.jp/products/le_light/lf1400s.html



    Good point, Chris. My Isotta housing does have a cold shoe that I plan on using. I still have the UK400 and UK1200 when I started diving as a teenager. I was contemplating upgrading them to LED, but I now think I'll leave them be with a NiMH upgrade. 

    41 minutes ago, GeorgeH said:

    Am I alone in using a dive light as a communication/signaling device?

    I agree with comments and the video that mention the advantages of a focus light. I personally prefer, in addition, a bright dedicated dive light with a narrow beam. While a focus light can double as a dive light to light your way, it doesn’t work as well as a communication device.

    Most any dive light can be attached to the back of your hand and won’t hinder your ability to hold a camera. Especially on a night dive where hand signals are difficult to see but even on a day dive, the ability to get a buddy’s attention and communicate with agreed upon movements is the way I was taught. Especially in Puget Sound where a day dive can have dark, low visibility even at moderate depths.

    Good points. I've considered the method of attaching a dive light to the hand, but I like to reach into cracks and holes and pet the wolf eels....:lol: Ah yes, the Pudget Sound. I did a few dives there when I was stationed at PSNS. 

  3. Happy New Year y'all! 

    How do you all juggle shooting at night and using a dive light for getting around? I like to have one hand free and don't want to be cruising around holding my camera rig and a dive light. My initial thought is to just get a video light, like the L&M Sola 2500 or more likely the Backscatter 4300 and just use that as my dive light attached to my rig. I would also be carrying my Sherwood ST1000 as a backup light. 


  4. On 12/14/2020 at 4:17 PM, Tom_Kline said:

    You can determine the guide number empirically if you want to go that way. Probably easier to have standard settings - best not "overthink" the issue. I used 150 w-s strobes back in the day and recall using f/11 with Ektachrome 200 (which was available in 70mm) at the half to one meter range.

    The bigger issue will be synchronizing the Retra Pro as the strobe needs fiber optics.

    Thanks Tom. Retra makes a sync cord to FO converter with your choice of sync plug. Until I pony up the money for the digital back, I'm just going to shoot 70mm B&W with the SWC and channel my inner Ernie Brooks. ;) I ordered the Ilford HP5+ in 70mm x 50' from B&H. 

  5. On 7/9/2015 at 1:12 AM, Alex_Mustard said:

    Hi Elmer,

    As soon as news is public I will post it here. They are not my secrets to share. Although I have been communicating my test results freely - as this is not a commercial project for me - and I am keen to share what I have been learning.



    Hi Alex,


    Any updates on this project? I just found this thread and I also have this corrector lens set. 



  6. On 8/31/2020 at 5:07 PM, Tom_Kline said:

    I used the Subsea strobes as well as the Ike 150 back in the day with my Hasselblad system and used the EO plug on the housing (for the EL). These were 150 watt-second units. EO is a bit out of fashion with current strobes. Better off adapting to a bulkhead or fiber optic. With the blue housings it may be possible to swap out bulkheads - possibly a reduction fitting will have to be added as those old bulkheads appear to have used a larger diameter hole than the 14mm being used these days. I would be interested in knowing if Devon can do this.

    Hi Tom,

    I've been learning a lot about strobes lately and have returned to u/w photography with my compact digital setup. My Hassleblad cameras are back from getting serviced by David Odess. I've been learning about manual shooting with strobes using the guide #/distance = f/stop formula. However, the Retra Pro has piqued my interest but they don't use guide numbers, rather watt-secs. Do you know of a formula for calculating f/stop with watt-sec? 

  7. 7 minutes ago, Trafalgar Law said:

    Update: I have tried suggested cases, here are the results

    Cable from camera to strobe B, and cable from strobe B to strobe A (This is a little tricky since I'll need to set strobe A to single flash mode)

    • At every cases, strobe B fires every time.
    • At 1/4 power and stronger, strobe A still fires once out of 3 times.
    • At 1/8 power and lower, strobe A improves and fires 10 out of 10 times.

    Then, I rearrange the cable to normal position (camera to A & camera to B)

    • At 1/8 power and lower, A fires 10 out of 10 times. Mmm.
    • Slowly adjust the dial up to 1/1 power, strobe A struggle again and fire once out of 3 times.
    • Output light of both strobes are the same, so both dials should be fine
    • I noticed that the red ready light of both strobes come back quickly at very close time, around 1 second as per the spec. However, A still not firing.

    Oh my poor strobe A.

    Try swapping batteries to rule-out that possibility and see if the results are replicated. 

    • Like 1

  8. I recall shooting f/11 with 70mm Ektachrome 200 Pro film - brings back memories especially the hassle of special ordering the film. Using one or two 150 W-S strobes. The whole rig with two strobes (EL housing) was quite the monster, around 50 pounds in air. On the plus side one can sync at 1/500 due to the leaf shutter.
    I have the 70mm back. Too bad 220 roll film is no longer made. Only 70mm B&W from Ilford. But there is the new digital back.... $$$$

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

    • Like 1

  9. Interesting, prices are not quite as savage as I might have thought.   Quite the procedure to install the lens and camera compared to today's options - have to be really dedicated to get the best use of this .
    For sure, Chris. Definitely not a procedure to do while on a crammed dive boat.

    Growing up, I was always fascinated by my dad's dive gear and cameras from the 60s. I used to dive in our pool whenever I could at 10 yo. I was certified at 14. On dive boats, that system would always draw a crowd. Lately my dad has been in the hospital following complications from hip surgery. He's 76 and can no longer dive. It was the activity we did most together. Many fond dive trips off Monetery and the Channel Islands. Shooting this system again is how I feel close to him. Every day dives I'll take my compact system, then take the Hasselblad on bigger trips off the coast, like the Channel Islands. I want to keep it going for as long as I can. Hopefully next year I'll be able to get the new digital back for them. Even if I get sick of it, I can still shoot the cameras on land. I'll only be out for the cost of servicing the housing. The strobes I will get for it can be used for an SLR.

    BTW, which housing do you have?

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

    • Like 1

  10. In another thread I started about strobes, the thread was getting sidetracked with questions about the SWC corrector lens set. So I decided to start a new thread. 

    The Zeiss corrector lens set is used to correct for the decrease in angle of view due to the physics of water when using the SWC. The set consists of the outside flat port (spherical inside) and the smaller lens that mounts on the camera. Even if you have these two lenses, you also have to have the "gauge" tool to properly set the distance between camera and port and also to ensure that they the camera is perfectly perpendicular to the gauge tool. The camera is set at 10 feet, seated on the gauge tool, and mounted using the SWC mounting screw which allows for adjusting the axial distance. This "guage" tool is screwed in place of the port lens, then removed. My dad never acquired the SWC rear section of the housing. Instead, he removed the prism and would imagine the viewfinder frame. Haha. 






  11. Thanks Chris.

    My understanding is that the correction lens set widens the angle of view back to 90 deg u/w. The port is flat on the outside. Spherical inside. 

    My dad never acquired the SWC rear section. Instead, he removed the prism from the 500c rear section to fit the SWC and just imagined the SWC viewfinder frame. Haha. 

    I agree on your point about adding some buoyancy.  

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