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AustinAnywhere

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About AustinAnywhere

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    Hermit Crab
  1. Hey all, I have an Ikelite 200DL with their vacuum system, and I've really liked it so far. That said, one thing irks me about setup. They recommend that you do a test in a dunk tank without the camera housing to check for leaks, then take the back door off again to put the camera in, before doing another test with the camera in it. My problem is that after the no-camera dunk test I always end up with a wet main o-ring and have to completely redo the rear seal. It feels like I'm just introducing more risk this way vs if I just did a careful, dry, initial setup with the camera installed, then pulled a vacuum and checked it the next morning. I always give the housing overnight to detect any loss of the internal vacuum. So, if you are using a vacuum system and leaving the housing overnight, do you really need to do that extra dunk with an empty housing? What is your setup routine with your vacuum system? Thanks, Austin
  2. Can't seem to edit the post above any longer, so below is a link to all the files on Thingiverse. I've included a thicker version of the bottom rail if you want something stiffer, and also a modified version of the mount which is flat so it can fit housings other than Ikelite. Link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4586545
  3. Hello everyone, I thought my first post should be something that others might find useful. After quite a bit of saving and waiting I recently bought an Ikelite 200DL housing to hold my Canon EOS R. I've been out twice with it and love it, but found with the 8 inch acrylic dome that it's quite front-buoyant and after several hours of freediving with it that will start to cause some strain on my hand/wrist. I know Ikelite makes a trim rail, but I didn't want to spend money I'd rather save for strobes in the future. Lucky for me, I have access to a 3D printer and some filament that holds up well to saltwater & UV. With $1 in filament and a $1.50 in hardware from the local store, I have myself a fully adjustable trim rail that accepts most hard dive weights (only tested up to 2LB). The "base" that connects to the housing base plate, via the 1/4-20 threaded hole and a bolt, is also designed as a kind of handle (for in-water use only). That part is designed to mate with the shape of the housing base plate, but I can make it flat if there's interest from people with housings other than Ikelite that still have the 1/4-20 tripod mount. The bottom "rail" that the weight is ziptied to does not flex when in the water, and could be made thicker to accept more than 2LB if needed - it slides back and forth like the Ikelite rail system to move the counterweight as needed. Anyways, let me know if you have any thoughts or would like the design files to 3D print one for yourself. Happy to share and I hope this helps others who might be on a budget like I am. I'll post the design tomorrow on Thingiverse (a 3D printing file repo) and will update this post with the link. Might try to get some video of it in the water this weekend. It's a simple design that most printers should be able to handle and is plenty strong enough for the task. Hope it's helpful, Austin
  4. Hello from Oahu, I am a PhD student and coral ecologist studying coral disease, the coral microbiome, and disease forecasting. After almost a decade of saving up and shooting on land I recently bought and Ikelite housing for my Canon EOS R and am getting out into the water with it every chance I get. Looking forward to meeting more folks online and especially some people in my area. Best, Austin
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