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JustinO

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JustinO last won the day on January 18

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About JustinO

  • Rank
    Sea Nettle

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    UK
  • Interests
    Warm water diving & photography (inc. fluo), beer and wine

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United Kingdom
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus EM-1 Mk ii
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea&Sea YS-D3
  • Accessories
    Nauticam WWL; L&M Gobe lights

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117 profile views
  1. Ah, sorry- wasn't clear. i don't use a CMC-1 or 2, but do flick between preset MF and MF. i find my battery goes flat a bit quicker from the extra motor movements, and from the IBIS. It still lasts two dives. I have two bodies, too - oddly I find the 60mm drains faster than the 40-150mm - but I haven't done any scientific tests - it's just my outdoor observation.
  2. I have programmed my Em1 Mk 2 F2 button to switch between MF and preset MF at the minimum range to get 1-1. F1 is programmed for focus peaking (red). This enables me to switch between back button focus and preset MF quickly and be more confident about nailing the focus at 1-1. Doesn't help the battery life, though!
  3. Would suggest you don't let your creativity be limited by a strobe. Plan some ambient light shots too as the Oceanic White Tips that you will presumably be shooting are often in shallow, and very clear water. Shoot with the sun behind, with manual white balance, at about 5m and you can get some beautiful head on shots. if you shoot into the sun, you will need a flash, or go under the shark and shoot silhouettes. Bear in mind they are inquisitive and will very likely come and check you out, coming right up to your dome. Listen to the guides, too - they really know how to get a good and safe encounter. Hammerheads will be in deeper water (30m+) and your strobe is unlikely to be enough to light it (if indeed your guide allows their use in case it spooks the shark and ruins the experience for the group). They are a bit more shy, and less likely to come close - unless you are really lucky. So ambient can work well here too. Maybe try and work different angles (hammerheads from above in an S-shape work well) and think about putting manual white balance to one of the function buttons so you can adjust it easily?
  4. I use a plastic garden tub that I fill with water and practice in my garage - great for inward lighting and reduces the strain on your arms. It also helps me get a better "feel" for the rig. Eliminates any concerns about overheating the strobes too. A paddling pool might work too if you want to try WA.
  5. Have you tried http://www.seaslugforum.net ? I don't think it's being maintained anymore by Bill Rudman from the Australian Museum, but you might find some answers there... seems like a bit of a debate as to whether H. bullocki and H. apolegma are even distinct species... my (ex-biologist) and tongue in cheek nature prefers your nomenclature!
  6. The OP didn't say where you're planning a trip to... which is of course important. If going international, in addition to all the efficacy of the vaccine / am I immune / am I a vector / can I get there and back uncertainty, another dimension of risk to consider is whether insurance is obtainable or cost-effective. I expect many insurers won't be falling over themselves to pay for Covid related claims (and possibly also travel delay claims), just because of availability of a vaccine/proof of vaccination. The vaccination of a minority of the global population is unlikely to be a significant stimulus in that regard. Much as I'd love to travel again, I am steeling myself to staying local rather than experiencing the disappointment of delaying more trips....or spending ten extra days in a quarantine hotel at my own expense...
  7. That's really interesting, thanks Bill! Just tested it with an old strobe and it worked. Close range only, so I can't mount it on the TV and aim it back at the sofa....I guess I'll have to find another way to persuade the kids to do something else during lockdown!
  8. Well, that is weird - am no physicist, but suggests the sensor may not be as sensitive to red light? Just took a look at the S-Turtle trigger - looks like an interesting bit of kit, . Maybe test it on Manual rather than TTL first just to ensure you get a bright enough output? Fingers crossed it works for you!
  9. I bought two D3s last year, and got the S&S fibre cables at the same time. Pleased to confirm it works well (as claimed by S&S) with the Nauticam Oly trigger, which has white light LEDs. I do make sure to keep my sensor windows and cables scrupulously clean just in case, and I'm careful about how I pack the cables to avoid wear and tear as they aren't cheap!
  10. Warmwater diver, been shooting for about 6 years, a couple of times a year. Been reading the forum when I needed some ideas and thought it was probably time I joined! Cheers, Justin
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