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JustinO last won the day on January 18 2021

JustinO had the most liked content!

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About JustinO

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  • Interests
    Warm water diving & photography (inc. fluo), beer and wine

Additional Info

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    United Kingdom
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus EM-1 Mk ii
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea&Sea YS-D3
  • Accessories
    Nauticam WWL; L&M Gobe lights

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  1. So a short update. S&S have asked for some photos (presumably to check it is not a flood). I also have got some advice from Aquaphot on what to do with the YS D2 if the model enters battery protection mode. Pasted below in case helpful: ........................................On the previous version YS-D2 the following caused the issueIf you 'repeatedly' (a little subjective) turn on the strobe under the following conditions, the strobewill stop firing as the circuit protection is activated: When the ready lamp does not activate within 30 seconds after the power switch is turned on, due to drained / exhausted batteries being used. When batteries of different makes or different charge states are used. To correct the error Please try the following first, but only with batteries in prime condition! ..... Turn the light level control dial to 1 As you depress the target light switch ...turn the light level control to 32 Release the target light switch, the ready light should start flashing green. The circuit protection mode has been deactivated ....... Note this procedure can only be carried out twice! ............................................ Ends.
  2. Thanks Dave, yes, have been through a pretty exhaustive diagnostic,, and it's not a transmission issue. The issue is that the "ready" light status suggests exhausted batteries when I turn it on- even if the batteries are full. And just to complicate matters, they operate the other strobe (identical model).
  3. So an interim update.... still nothing heard from Sea and Sea on what the issue is or how to address it. I''ve just come back from a two week work trip, and thought I'd test the strobe when I got home. In went my set of Pros (as they were, no top up charge), and the unit charged until the "ready" lit came on continuously... and sure enough, the strobe fired normally. After three test fires at different power levels (no more than 1/2 power), I turned it off. Turned it back on within a minute, and the red blinking "inadequate battery" reappeared, and it won't fire. I don't think there could be any overheating risk from that to put it in a protection mode. So more intrigue.... My hypotheses are: 1. Either the batteries aren't delivering the grunt quick enough to recharge the circuit (triggering the "insufficient power" signal). 2. There's a fault in the one of the circuits that is somehow linked to residual power when the unit is turned off. I freely admit my ignorance on all things electronic, but I bet if I try again in two weeks once the capacitors have discharged a bit and the same batteries, the same will be repeated.
  4. Good point, Massimo. I am with you there - I have not yet shot rapid bursts (on any power setting). Apart from one workshop in May, the rest of the time they have been used is when diving with the family, I wasn't able to really "work" a subject, so there was a good time interval between subjects. I got this trouble in Egypt last month, where the water temp was warm (30c). I very rarely shoot on full power (as conscious of the instruction manual's caution on that), so batteries have lasted all day, and I never ran low on power. I was trying the snoot designed for the YS-D3 on the 60mm - so used about one or two clicks down from full power- however, I wouldn't be able to tell which strobe I used it on, and i wasn't very successful, so didn't use it a lot. I wonder how successful the metal ring around the strobe is at dissipating heat...time will tell.
  5. See here for the roadmap - Lens Roadmap update September 8th 2022 - Photography Journal_en - Blog - MyOLYMPUS (olympus-consumer.com) No date of release yet.... be interesting to see how well this works underwater, working distance, etc. 4x magnification might be a challenge to keep steady!
  6. Thanks Chris I'll give the "deep clean" a go and see... not expecting miracles if it is in battery protect mode, but nothing ventured... I saw the magnet post too - was going to do that as a last resort if S&$ came back with a blank, or no response. Might be a trip to the local school physics lab...
  7. They are two years old - only used on four trips, my estimate is 2000 shots - i saw your post on how they don't last as long as std Eneloops - I'd be surprised if they had deteriorated that much. Any idea how to override the protection circuit (just in case that is the issue)? Then I could test with a brand new set of NiMH and see....
  8. Thanks Massimo, I have only used Eneloop Pros with them that I bought at the same time - they're the ones the manual recommends.
  9. Hi all, Given the issues with Sea & Sea strobes some people have had with them, I thought I'd start a page on the issue I am having with the newest model (Ys-D3 / Lightning), just in case anyone has had a similar problem or ideas on what it might be. I've been in touch with Kevin at Aquaphot, and he's asked for some technical information from Sea&Sea; I'll update this as more is learnt, and once we fix the issue. I have a pair of Mk-1s, that have not had the 2020 firmware update (as I don't use TTL). They have done four trips - I would estimate about 100 dives max, and about 2000 frames max taken. The issue I have been having is as follows. Last month, I noticed one strobe wasn't working on a dive - the "ready" LED was blinking red about twice a second, and would not fire, although the focus light operated normally. It blinked red every time I turned the unit on, beeped once, and although I heard the capacitors charging, the steady red LED (that shows when it is ready to dump full capacity) no longer appeared. This happened in whatever mode I put the unit into (I only shoot manual with F/O cables),and in and out of the water. I could not find a reason for this in my manual (version EZpN). A web search found a different manual from S&S Japan (version YAvX), which describes the issue as "there is no remaining battery power". Well, that was incorrect, as the (fully charged) batteries operated the other unit perfectly, and they are new Eneloop Pro that are the only batteries I have used with the strobes- so 2000 shots. I got the same issue with a fresh set, of Eneloops, as well as a set of new Duracell non-rechargeables. Swapping the end cap over doesn't solve the issue either - the other strobe fires whichever end cap or battery set I use. I examined the unit for any leaks (dry in both the battery compartment and sync cord) and put the unit to bed. Since my return, I've been trying to figure out what the issue is. A "cooldown" without batteries hasn't helped. I am meticulous (my family would argue OCD) with my preparation, and following the manual - for example, I have never shot the strobes pointing directly downwards, and have very rarely found a need to use them on full power - so overheating is unlikely, and the strobe isn't showing it's locked out (blinking red and green LED). I also have test fired the units monthly to ensure the electronics remain in top shape, as recommended. I wondered if the terminals were dirty, and the unit was failing to draw enough power to load the capacitors. I've wiped all terminals (and those of the batteries) with a dry cotton bud in case of any o-ring grease, and now I get a different symptom. Now when I turn it on, it beeps twice in quick succession (unusual) and the LED lights solid -briefly! Just as I try to test fire it, it starts blinking red twice a second again. Kevin mentioned that "On a previous model this was due to low batteries being used, this could kick the circuit into a 'battery protection mode', & the strobe then needs a system reboot to get it working again, but this may not be the cause, or the remedy for this particular model." Any ideas what's going on, or thoughts on what I could do would be appreciated.
  10. Thanks Tim! Love your arrow crabs, too! Those sponges and the blue sponges make wonderful backgrounds - I found a fireworm on one once which made a lovely colour contrast.
  11. Thanks! I used two strobes in cross lighting position, either side of, and slightly in front of the port about a foot apart. so the edge of the beam just lit up the face.
  12. Yes, sorry, I wasn't clear - it's the WD of the Oly 30mm that is too small for a diopter. The 60mm with a diopter is of course a highly recommended set up...and I am just persuading myself to get a CMC 1...
  13. I managed to find a few at wider apertures - f13. These are still crops, but show what the lens can do - still acceptable sharpness in both the moray portrait and the xmas tree worm. Still a little soft at the edges. Like others have said, at the price point it's a good lens.
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