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rickmorgan

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About rickmorgan

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  1. The iTurtle units remain reasonably priced ($362). Rechargeable and well over 1000 actuations on a charge.
  2. The FL-LM3 came with my OM-1 and with the M1ii (I don't know about the M1iii). The M1 came with the FL-LM2, which had a cold shoe and a USB-like connector into the camera. While the LM3 is a more capable flash than the LM2 when it works, the LM3 is not a paragon of reliability. It was my assumption that the OM-1 came with the mini-flash on account of underwater applications; the Nauticam housing, at least, is build to accommodate the LM3.
  3. Interesting divergence of opinion. Like Architeuthis, I have obtained what I consider very good results with the 12-40 Pro behind the DP170ii. While its integrated extension makes it impractical for the fisheyes (or at least, for the Panasonic fisheye I use), the little Nauticam 4" dome (Zen recommends its 5" dome for the Panasonic 8mm) affords closer shooting distance from the front of the lens to the inner of the dome, makes the rig easier to handle, and is hardly noticeable when packed. Dann-O, is the only benefit you anticipate, from the configuration you're considering, not having to take the small dome with you?
  4. Ahh, that. Agreed. I rarely use it, but wanted to do a consistent workflow across the images for evaluation purposes.
  5. Thank you, Troporobo. The thumb trigger is the same. Here are the two housings together. I like that the OM1 body has a "focus on" button by default, but to your point, it is not as well-located as the Nauticam lever. Also having the ISO button by the right thumb without button-programming is nice. My main beef with Topaz Sharpen is that only the "very" (blurry, oof, etc) are available. Topaz patches the software so regularly that I assume this will come. And I agree that some gross artifacts come into play on some of these images. I didn't use Topaz (or any) sharpening because I figured folks evaluating a switch to the OM1 might want to see pictures without it. I can make pictures available as-shot if anyone is interested, of course.
  6. I primarily use aperture preference--did you see some which were shot on auto? Accidental if so. However, I've not gotten accustomed to full manual camera settings. I do confess to using iTTL more often than manual strobes (with an iTurtle trigger), although I am doing some bullet-biting on the strobe settings.
  7. Thanks both. Kraken, I'm glad you enjoyed the images! Interceptor, I'm loath to blame the camera, when there's a much more obvious candidate. I expect there are some un-mined highlights buried in the .orf files, but settings are of course a constant work in progress. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
  8. We spent the last half of June in Bonaire, and I used the OM-1 and Nauticam housing on 29 dives. A gallery is linked below (I think so, anyway--the interface was a bit prickly). On almost all the images, workflow consisted of, in Photoshop, auto tone, followed by Topaz Sharpen, with the denoise set at 55. Although I couldn't get Topaz to use any but the strongest profiles, many of them didn't need sharpening at all. Most are full-size; if I cropped, I've put both the original and the cropped images for comparison purposes; I put the tight crops through Gigapixel to have workable file sizes. I used a range of ISOs, and, to my perhaps-uncritical but satisfied eye, noise really wasn't a problem. Although subjective, I found the focusing on the camera significantly improved over the E-m1ii I've used for several years. There are a handful of images from a bonfire dive, which of course is a pretty challenging environment for the camera; I felt like it hunted less and found more. The housing was, of course, familiar and flawless. Most pictures were with two Inon Z330 strobes, and a focus light was used on some. https://rickmorgan.smugmug.com/Bonaire-June-2022/
  9. Elements is fine, Grasshopper, for what you describe, and includes good categorizing tools. As you probably know, it is buy-and-own.
  10. I also have both Olympus macro lenses, and also use the 60 when I'm not using the 12-40. I use the 30 for bonfire/blackwater, but otherwise, for me, the 60 is a satisfactory combination of working distance, magnification, and IQ. I do recall the 60 having a lot of focus hunt on an em5, but on the em1ii it does pretty well. I have only used the 30 with the (short) Macro port 45; I'd think that with the Macro port 65, which is about 3/4" longer, the distance from the nose of the 30 to the port glass would be enough to defeat the small magnification advantage afforded by the minuscule working distance of the 30. To explore this, I put a camera with the 30 in a housing with the Macro port 65, and found (1) that the camera would focus on an object up against the glass, and (2) that the object in the resulting image was smaller than it was in the image generated by the 30 at its closest focus point. Not scientific by any means, but it supported my thought that the working distance of the 30 is so short that unless you're willing to have the subject quite close to the glass, it's hard to take advantage of its macro capabilities, and of course the lighting obstacles are obvious. (Troporobo, I think JustinO was talking about the working distance on the 30, not the 60.)
  11. Yoga blocks don't always get respect, but I've used them for more than 100 dives and been satisfied. Two 3x9x6" blocks are $18. I cut the block in half lengthwise and bored a 1" hole (the next set will have 1.25" holes) the long way, then cut each half in half again--this gives me four pieces which slide over a 1" float arm like the Ultralight 12". They compress very little--I can stand on them without any indentation--and on a good day, the rig floats on the surface with the top clamps just out of the water, is slightly positive at depth, and hangs beside me at 15'. I vary the pieces depending on light and port selection.
  12. I started using the o-Turtle several years ago, because I had repetitive issues with the Olympus miniflashes on one of my e-M1 bodies. You have to do some setup, which was a bit fiddly, but I have been fully pleased with the device, and far more than pleased with the service of TRT and its owner, Balazs Kurucz. He has always been prompt and helpful when I had questions. But last year, I sent my housing in for service, and when I tried to separate the device from the wiring harness, the base of the harness connector separated from the unit. Well out of warranty, and mostly likely misfeasance on my part, but Balazs suggested a couple of fixes and when they didn't work, I sent him the device and he repaired it and returned it with a new harness. I haven't been able to convince him to charge me for this above-and-beyond customer service--suffice it to say I was grateful and very impressed.
  13. This surprises me: “No external charger comes with the camera but it can be charged or operated over its USB-C socket. If you use a USB-PD power source that's powerful enough, the camera can be powered and charged while being used. An external, two-battery charger is available ($149 or $219 with a battery included).” i saw a suggestion awhile ago that the batteries would be backward-compatible, but don’t see that now.
  14. Wolfgang, I agree that it’s not wise to send the apparently-defective body for repair. You’re certainly right that the trigger’s a better way to go. I do own a trigger, but it’s being repaired, so I refamiliarized myself with the mini-flash situation. We landed in Bonaire this afternoon, so I’ll just have to suck it up for a couple of weeks.
  15. Thanks, Chris. I keep a plate on the dysfunctional one, which keeps it out of the housing. Without the trigger, though, it’s not much good as a backup.
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