Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About demonboy

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Yes, the 10bar is compatible with the S2000. I might just pull the trigger and get it sent over before my next dive. And yes, I'd be happy to post up my experience with it.
  2. Hmmm, I only bought the S2000 from Backscatter recently! I wonder if they'll do a trade-in? The 10bar is certainly the cheaper option in the short term.
  3. Hi, I've been thinking of purchasing a snoot for my Inon S2000, used currently on my TG-5. I came across this review which looks at the 10Bar laser pointer, Reefnet Fibre-optic and the Retra LSD. Before looking at the other two I was thinking of buying the 10-bar, but the Retra appears to give the best results. It does look quite big though, while battery life on the 10bar laser is a bit disappointing. Anyone have any experience with any of these models? Any others out there I should consider? Will I get decent results on the TG-5, what with not being able to control aperture in microscope mode? Or should I wait until I upgrade my camera, which could be a while? TIA
  4. Thanks for the info. TBH since posting this thread I've gone off the RX100 altogether. I can't budget for the later models anyway so I've been looking at the EPL9-10 instead, especially as I already own the GH5 and various lenses.
  5. Yes, I'm getting better at avoiding stirring up the sand myself. I'm frequently diving with another photographer so we're conscious of not messing up the shot for our buddy, but this clip was shot on a busy dive and there was a queue of people lining up to get this octopus, which could explain some of the backscatter. If I can I'll post up another clip of the same dive where there should have been no or little backscatter.
  6. Hi again, I said I'd post up a video clip of the offending backscatter and forgot I'd put the clip up on Instagram. You can see it here. Since then I've taken a few more clips but been angling the light away from the camera. It helps a little but I did another dive today up the coast and the water was generally clearer, so I do wonder if there was an excessive amount of particles in the octopus clip.
  7. I've just had another thought: maybe I could set the video mode to MF as a custom setting. That way I could use the up/down buttons to set the focus as I like, knowing it won't change. I'll give that a go...
  8. Hi Bill. The half shutter trick doesn't work on the Seafrogs housing. Believe me, I've tried many times and end up taking a photo instead. The hunting issue on the TG-5 is well-known (the TG-4 was slightly better) and my experience of snorkeling with it while moving was always to lock focus, otherwise footage is unusable (static shots aren't so bad). I was just wondering if it's possible to preset the focusing distance and save it as a custom setting but I've tried and it doesn't seem to lock focus and save it, unless I've done something wrong.
  9. Thanks for the suggestions. Funnily enough I'd just downloaded that PDF not half an hour ago. I have two, maybe three dives tomorrow, so I'll apply one position for each dive. I'm going through the same process with my strobe (Inon S2000). Despite having two strobes I only have one YS mount so I'm attempting single strobe macro and that PDF suggests pointing upwards to avoid backscatter, so I'll try the same technique with the video light. Thank you for your replies, it's much appreciated. If I have any luck I'll post up my results but in the longer term I'm saving up for a second video light.
  10. Hi Adam, I'll try and do this, though I'm on the water atm and out diving again tomorrow. Was hoping for a quick answer before my next dive!
  11. I'm dabbling in UW photography and video and, among other things, bought a single 6000 lumen video light, just to experiment. It's 120°, has a good CRE rating (90) and the test footage from my TG-5 is acceptable in terms of colour rendition. However the backscatter is terrible and I'm assuming it's to do with the position of the light. I had it mounted to the side of the housing pointing straight ahead (probably my first mistake), shooting general scenes of reefs etc from around 2-5m distance, focal length 25mm. I've tried searching for the best position for a single video light but most search results are for avoiding backscatter for stills, or for two video lights (ie on the side pointing out). Am I asking too much when trying to use a single video light for such scenes, or is it possible to avoid backscatter with a single light? If so, what's the optimum position for it? Thanks.
  12. When shooting video with the TG-5 I tend to zone-focus by presetting the focusing distance before recording. This prevents the TG-5's tendancy to hunt. However in order to do this you have to half press the shutter button and press OK at the same time, which is impossible to do on the Seafrogs housing. Is it possible to set a custom function, or perhaps any other suggestions, on locking the focus when shooting video to prevent hunting? TIA
  13. Thanks for the info, Chris, and for the link too. I've just ordered one.
  14. As per my previous thread I managed to pick up a second hand Inon S2000. It doesn't come with a fibre optic cable so I need to source one (I'm in Malaysia), but I'm unsure what cable I need to attach to my Seafrogs housing for my TG-5. The Seafrogs port looks like a standard female, but I think the Inon has a protruding male connection on the underside, unless I'm looking at the wrong thing (looking at pictures as I don't have the item yet). Could anyone point me to the correct cable for this application? Thank you.
  • Create New...