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About RVbldr

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  1. The Pelican Air Cases are going to save some weight over standard cases. The 1535 I use for camera is 8.69 empty, 11.91 with the TrekPak foam dividers.
  2. QQ for Singapore Air, do they weigh the carry-ons. I do carry a Pelican Air 1535, but it's a bit over the 7kg published limits. Heading to Wakatobi from the states via Singapore Air through Singapore->Bali in 2 months.
  3. I'm normally shooting an A7C with kit lens at 60mm, and a CMC-2. I'm wondering what the best focus method is for macro? Currently use the 1/2 shutter trigger to focus and hold, but I do get a lot of shots that aren't in focus. I suspect I'm actually just getting too close to the subject. Thoughts? Back-button?
  4. Several domestic trips with a 1637 with CCR, and so far, no problems. Mine is the grey version, so it's going to stick out a bit more than the black box, but so far so good. The biggest issue seems to be that you never know if it's going to show up on the carousel or get kicked out at the over-sized baggage counter.
  5. Converted to this exact config last September just prior to Nauticam price-hike. I like it a lot and so far has done well.
  6. Hey Brett, 1) I have a Prism2, so it's a bit deeper and thus the Pelican Air 1637 case. A buddy carries his rEvo onboard with a rain cover over it, his wife gives him a huge amount of crap " why don't you just check that thing!" ;-) 2) Pelican Air 1535. I still need to put a couple floats in the dive gear bag (Sthalsac) and I put camera itself in computer bag. 3) Sony A7C with the WWL-1B. This case is just deep enough so I don't need to take off the handle ball mounts. The blue bag contains all the clamps, etc. I have a CMC-2 diopter that fits nicely in the spot with the port. Total weight is about 24 lbs.
  7. Brett, that's exactly what I've done. My camera gear is in a Pelican Air for carry-on, so when I pull my CCR pelican case off the baggage belt, the camera pelican is bungeed to the extendable handle. Computer in a backpack, so that get's worn, and it's not too bad rolling around a wheeled gear duffle and a 1637 Pelican Air, one gets pushed and the other pulled. Anyway, works for me.
  8. Thanks Diggy, that's what I was looking for. I do lightly re-grease before use and it's served me well. I was looking for the advise on removing o-ring between dive weekends.
  9. Being somewhat new to a Nauticam housing, is the o-ring normally removed between uses? I used to pull the o-ring on my old Ike housing, but haven't been doing that on the Nauticam housing (it's a hinged back plate).
  10. Been diving a D1 for about 8 years and flooded one early in its life. That was cleaned and got new cap, never failed again. Just had a D finally fail (continuous flashes) and replaced that with a D3. With about 12 dives on that strobe, so far, no apparent issues. Before each dive day I always make sure the o-ring is clean and re-install with just a little lube. Seems to work for me.
  11. If interested, the full unedited RAW image with the Cauliflower Coral is linked from my OneDrive: https://1drv.ms/u/s!Al5IppCB40wPhKlL0WEHuy1AbprotQ?e=c8K55F
  12. I believe the Zebra Moray was f9 and f11 for manta, and f13 for coral and turtle. Here's a blow-up of center vs. lower left in the coral pic:
  13. Just for reference, the following were all shot with the Sony 28-60mm and WWL-1B (on A7C), although they are all compressed for upload. There's times when it might be nice for a little more width, but overall, I've been happy with results although I only have about 20 dives on the camera. I have found that I've tended to get a little too close to subject for good focus.
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