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Silvana

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Everything posted by Silvana

  1. Thank you for your thoughts and shared experience. However, the leaks I experienced are not in general but very particular to Sea and Sea YS-D3 strobe. While the cap for the Sea and Sea strobes stayed the same for YS-D2 and I hear even older generations, the D3 modified the battery compartment to a different mold. It is noticeable the different fit of the cap from D2 to D3, in that for D3, it is not a snug fit as it is for D2. YS-D3 has been on the market for about 1.5 years and it was announced with a great buzz, but waiting to see the divers' experiences after more than just few dives. Thanks.
  2. Tim, Two questions please: 1. What does the macro ring do? 2. How difficult is to remove the snoot in the water? I am asking this as I am typically setup for macro but occasionally I run into a larger beautiful subject (octopus etc) and I fumble to remove the snoot and put back the diffusion disk on the strobe to shoot with both strobes. I currently have Sea&Sea YS-D3 strobes and snoot/diffusion disk have bayonet mounting. Removing the snoot is not hard in the water, more of a problem of how to present it from floating in front of the strobe :). Thanks!
  3. Thank you Tim for moving my question to the proper thread and I will be more careful to not ask side questions again. Is great to read through this extensive thread. While I travel for warmer diving about 2 times a year, the vast majority of my diving is at shores in South California where is dark and murky. As such, macro is the best bet for photography and I surely love it. Snoot is of the essence and I am generally pleased with the Sea&Sea one for YS-D3. But the guide light for aiming is too weak if I find a subject in the shallows in a sunny day, I get a lot of black screen shots. I would like a stronger light of beam and this is where I started to look at Retra snoot. I also find the supercharger very enticing if I can shoot over 350 images before I need to change the batteries. Thanks for the reply and the wealth of info this forum provides, it is much appreciated.
  4. Thank you for the comments! Regarding #3, i heard that handling the strobes from the extra batteries compartment can cause leaks. This is from a person that was not actually using them, so I was taking it with a grain of salt. Happy to hear your experience is different as I am interested to transition to Retra strobes.
  5. Of course I will have all the other things you do besides the 4 lenses, will also bring my compact Sony RX100 V and the housing/tray for it just in case... Have a great trip and I would be curios on a feedback on Retra strobes with the extra battery compartment, also how you like the snoot. Thanks!
  6. Thank you so much, is great to hear there are options! Will see how the space will fill up... Just bought some bubble wrap, and will start packing soon. I can't believe I will be traveling with 4 lenses
  7. I am editing this since I can't delete it. Please disregards, I found answers just few pages back on this thread. Thanks. ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Apologies if this has been discussed before, newbie here about to get on my first international dive trip with a DSLR ( I traveled before with a smaller setup). The question I have is whether is advisable or not to carry the camera inside the housing for the flight. They would both be in a carry on. I remember vaguely seeing something that this is not a good idea but would like to see some thoughts from the many experienced travelers on this forum. Thank you!
  8. I am very open to hear what potential problems can be from my end...As I mentioned before, we do rigorous cleaning after each dive due to the sand trapped on the rings (shore diving), also clean the grooves on the cap and on the battery compartment, use grease from Sea&Sea in small amounts to have the o-ring rolling and surely do not overstretch the o-ring while removing/putting it back. Thanks for any constructive thoughts you can offer.
  9. Well, we do shore diving and most of the time we open the cap to remove the batteries, there is a visible sand on the o-ring, sometimes more, sometimes less, but is never clean. There is no way I would just put the cap back on after recharging the batteries and without cleaning the o-ring...
  10. You probably have made a decision at this point but in case you have not: Between my boyfriend and I, we bought 4 Sea&Sea YS-D3 strobes in the past year. We mange to flood 3 of them and one started to malfunction on its own. The malfunctioning one was not flooded, it would just take a very long time to charge between shoots, and was sent to repairs (still in warranty, and waiting to get it back as we speak). Of the 3 that we flooded (on separate occasions), I can honestly see only one time that would sort of justify the flooding: we had a rough exit on a concrete stair and got tossed around a bit. The separate events that led to flooding of the other 2 strobes had nothing remarkable or different that what we normally do: routine shore diving. Before every dive, we rigorously clean and grease the o-rings (clean the grooves too) so no clue how they got flooded, other than how easily the battery cap can move and let water sip in. I don't have a whole lot of confidence with these strobes and I am looking at Inon and Retra for future replacements. Thanks.
  11. Hi everyone, In anticipation to my dive trip to Bonaire in 2 weeks and at the advice of a fellow photographer, I purchased the Kraken KRL-09S Wide Angle Conversion Lens. This lens is made to go on 60mm macro lenses and convert the angle of view from 39 degrees to 154 degrees (on a full frame camera). It can be mounted on a flip adapter and in same dive, you can shoot both macro and wide angle. I am curious if anybody has been using it and can share any thoughts or tips, before I find out things by myself in a short while :). Thanks so much.
  12. Thank you Chris, this is very helpful and also thanks for the link to the previous videos and discussions. One thing I am sure of, I am not buying the +23 diopter
  13. Thank you Chris. Are you saying a 60mm with a +15 diopter will provide less magnification than a 105mm with same +15mm? I don't have a 105 mm yet but from what I read, it provided more minimum focal distance rather than more magnification. Thanks!
  14. Hi everyone, I have a Nikon D850 with a 60 mm macro lens. I currently use a AOI +15 diopter but getting greedy for more magnification and wondering if anybody has experience with using the AOI UCL-900 PRO +23.5 diopter. It will be the only one higher than +15 that will work with this lens due to short focal length for the 60 mm macro lens. The +23.5 mm is rather expensive ($789 in US) and I am hesitant to buy without hearing from anybody else. Thanks much in advance for thoughts.
  15. I think "swelling" is used in a more general term for o-rings degradation. Mine actually did not get thinker (from what I can tell) but got longer, and I only noticed when I could no longer close up the camera as the o-ring would bulge.
  16. I was there doing the same 2 years ago. If you are a total beginner, I recommend the GoPro. I later on got a RX100 VA which is a great camera but you will need practice with it. Depth is more than 20 ft, close to 40 ft I think and I used video lights with GoPro.
  17. Sorry to hear. I ordered mine just recently from Dive Gear Express in Florida. No hidden costs... https://www.divegearexpress.com/tribolube-71-o2-compatible-lubricant
  18. Thanks for the thoughts and good point about wanting to still free the arm to adjust the right strobe. Perhaps for wide angle shots I can keep the strap more lose, but where I dive (South California) is dark and murky, so I do a lot of macro photography with single strobe.
  19. Excellent Tim, this is what I was hoping to hear! Thanks!
  20. Good questions indeed Chris. Yes the housing has handles and I can't support it enough with only 3 fingers while I reach the focus and shutter buttons with the other two fingers. I can reach those buttons just fine otherwise. I do have floater arms on the long section and added float foam on the short ones - the camera is slightly negative. It is easy to move it around in the water, just not stable enough with 3 fingers hold. I have standard handle and I see now that Isotta offers small handles. Not sure that will help me though, as it is not an issue of reaching, I think...I see that a handle is 189 eurous, ouch. Thanks!
  21. Hi everyone, Before I spend more money for a possible not useful item, I would like to hear if anyone uses a hand strap for the housing. Below is a link for what will be for my housing. What will be useful for me is if holds the camera on my hand better while I fiddle between the focus button and the trigger button. I do not use the half press shutter button to focus so I have the thumb and index fingers occupied with buttons and unable to support the camera. Most often I need to other hand to support the housing. Also, I do not have big hands (XS gloves) Thank you! https://www.backscatter.com/Isotta-Hand-Strap-for-Mirrorless-SLR-Housings
  22. Indeed! I sent an email before to Isotta on another issue, but got no reply actually. I emailed to their "Info" email rather then "Support" email. So just a note on that, use "Support" for technical issues.
  23. Thank you, I feel proud of myself I learned a bit on the way and this forum provides amazing support! I am kind of disappointed in Backscatter, they could not tell me how to check the trigger type, they asked me to send it the housing. I dive frequently so that sounded like a poor solution. That is beside installing the wrong trigger and making me pull my hair out for over a week, troubleshooting. Thanks again!
  24. Happy to report that the mystery of the century has been resolved! Isotta helped me with instructions to check the type of trigger I have. Turns out, Backscatter installed a TTL trigger, while I asked for a manual trigger and trying to make it work with this assumption. The checking of the trigger type is rather simple: with the camera in the housing and the trigger ON, check the back display on the camera by pressing the "info" button. For my camera, bottom left corner says TTL. When turning the trigger OFF, that writing disappears. With that resolved, following the Isotta's instructions from the manual for TTL trigger made sense and explained why it works for me in the "pre-flash" mode of the strobes instead of "without pre-flash". Thanks everyone!
  25. Chris yes, I was thinking of the same, however it refers to making the TTL trigger to work in manual. I have a manual trigger. Anyway, that sentence indeed would explain why it works now, if I can only identify that I have a TTL trigger and not a manual one.
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