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  1. Not really mcranga. It's done me really well over the last few years, and taken some excellent, excellent photos. I've enjoyed trying to push the boundaries of what a compact can achieve, too. That's what I was looking for when starting out, a reasonably priced, travel friendly setup. It will still be my shore diving rig, as I'm not lugging the big setup over the rocks. Good luck with your choice! :). I happen to have the full list of the mirrorless setup next to me (been pricing it all up) so not too much hassle.
  2. Hi Chris - thanks, yes 'reach' in my own head is a bit different to the trad meaning (which I do also understand). It's more about pic quality, allowing me to keep similar distances but get a better quality of picture. However, I do understand that for WA (especially CFWA) distance to the dome is quite important, I believe I'll still get better quality pictures with a mirrorless though even at the same distance as the compact. Noted re: the 50mm MC with diopter! Macro will be a distant second for me although its definitely my first love... Will probably keep the compact for that for a little while, anyway.
  3. Nikon Z6 mirrorless setup - I should mention some of the items are part of a demo setup from a pro friend, but will list retail prices too... to compare the difference with a compact. I've outgrown the compact after about year 2.5 underwater. I'm prioritising a wide angle setup first. Nikon Z6 Full Frame Mirrorless setup: Nikon Z6 body: $2300 new, $1500 second hand Housing: $4400 new, $1900 demo model Nikkor 8-15mm fisheye lens: $1300 new 8" Dome port: $1450 new, $1000 demo model Lens converter & port zoom ring: $175 Port extension ring: $250 new Ball joints for tray x 2: $50 each new Vacuum system: $330 new, $180 demo 2 x strobes - indecisive on brand yet (tossing up between Retra and INON), expected new cost $1,300 each or ~ $650 each second hand I will reuse my video light from my previous setup Total cost of setup new with two strobes - which is only for wide angle: $12,905 Total cost of combined second hand with a few new items: $7,705 To be clear, in order to shoot pictures I need all of the above except for 2 strobes, potentially I can go with no strobes to start or one strobe. Then in order to shoot macro, I need to add on the following items, which will be purchased new: Nikkor MC 50mm lens: $1000 Port: $400 Extension ring: $250 (TBC) Additional $1650 I can also then use my existing wet lenses on TOP of this 50mm lens, so I can use the SMC+15 diopter for additional macro capability. Some things that you buy for the compact setup are reuseable with a bigger setup. Anyway.. hope this helps. I'm very keen to get my mirrorless setup but still heading out to the reef this weekend with the Sony I'm sure others will have different advice on which way to go, but personally I've appreciated learning my craft on the smaller more portable rig (especially for tricky entries and shore diving, and I'll keep the sony for shore diving here), and now am looking forward to the challenge of porting those skills over to a mirrorless rig. I've also been doing a lot of landscape/topside shooting with DSLRs lately and really honing those skills, too.
  4. No problem. I'll price up both of my rigs for you although the new one hasn't arrived yet, so I'm not finished spending Sony RX100V - new items: Camera - $1500 Fantasea housing - $500 2 x Sea&Sea YS01 Solis strobes - $600 each 2 x fibre optic cables - $100 Arms / Clamps / Tray - ~$250 new Total $3,350 with two strobes. You could get away with 1 strobe, and second hand strobes are generally fine if you do your due diligence. The strobe I've listed above is both manual and TTL. Some of the cheaper strobes are TTL only, and I prefer to shoot in manual. A Canon setup would be a similar price point. These are the add ons which I got second hand, and I'd recommend for most compact setups, but you don't have to do it all at once: - unbranded 67mm flip holder $50 (this will allow you to shoot super macro, as well as wide angle.. you can flip the magnifying diopter on or off depending on the subject) - macro wet lens, Subsee +10 diopter - $200 - Wide angle wet lens UWL-09 - $600 Toys that you don't need but maybe want... - SMC-1 wet lens +15 diopter - $400 (super super macro!) - UW video light, Fantasea F2000 - $500 I'll list the mirrorless setup in a new post.
  5. mcranga - my best advice is start with a point and shoot that allows you to shoot in manual so you can learn how to shoot underwater in manual on a smaller rig. They also allow you to start with smaller, cheaper strobes that the bigger systems don't love. If you're a novice above land you don't want to be learning everything at the same time. That means your higher end Sony compact, Canon and Panasonic compact are probably the ones to look at. They're cheaper to house, don't need additional ports & lenses, and you can shoot both wide and macro in the camera with a minimum of fuss and in the same dives. I currently run a Sony RX100VA, and if you want to check out my pics you can look at instagram (little.ocean.mel). It's done me really well for all the Melbourne macro, as well as holiday wide angle. I know you have similar (and sometimes a lot better!) macro than us, and you definitely have more WA opportunities. The Sony RX100VA is probably the best, last camera I'd recommend in that line as the VI and VII start to get less flexible with housings & ports. The Canon G16/G5/G9 would be the equivalent of the Sony RX series and also highly recommended. However, now as I move to a semi-pro setup on the great barrier reef, it becomes more apparent that I need something with more reach and faster recycle times. Having said that, this setup is going to run me to a minimum of $10k. I'm happy to break down costs of the compact setup for you if you like? I purchased a mix of new & secondhand equipment.
  6. Hey - there is a massive, and clear improvement from post to post of your photos. Well done! Getting to know a new rig is trial and error, and lots and lots of practice so go you, you've done a brilliant job. I shoot with an SMC-1 wet lens, man they are tricky buggers to learn. Especially in current / surge etc, focus can be razor thin. Definitely the advice of learning the macro rig without it first is a good one, or having a flip ring so you can remove it if it's frustrating you.
  7. At least you guys (UK) can go out and about within Europe.. Australia is still a cluster, both state and international borders slammed shut. Anyway, I'm lucky enough to have moved to a tropical diving destination but all my friends are still down in another state, locked in with a 5km radius limitation and 9pm curfew. Very few of them get to hit the water. Strange times. Not to mention the economic impact...
  8. Honestly, I have one of the top end compacts (Sony RX100V... well it was when I bought it) and I've moved from a macro to a predominatly wide angle location (Great Barrier Reef!). It's 20mp, so not shabby, shoots in manual and the pictures blow up large. Look - it does the job, especially for holiday snaps where I've taken it on liveaboards in the Philippines etc, and instagram, however I'm finding that in large wide angle locations with fast pelagics, I'm limited by a couple of things. Reach, and then flash recycle time. Which has always been an issue, but much easier to wait 3.24 seconds with a nudibranch than a manta or tiger shark! However, I'm trying to get semi pro shots for tourism and brochures and the compact is hard work, most of the time I walk away with photos that I'm not happy with. I'm now moving to a full frame mirrorless, to be able to capture better quality pictures, faster, with more reach. However, gone for a smallish model so hopefully it is easy to transport around. I'll keep the Sony for shore diving at my new town as the entries are hazardous, so don't want a big/heavy rig for those. I also bought a TG6 but utterly hate it . I think it's because I've always shot in manual and the TG doesn't allow me to. Good luck!
  9. I already have another ad up wanting 2 x Inons, however another option has presented itself if I can find one... Looking for 1 x Retra Flash, original model. Pay by paypal, shipping to Aus. If you PM me, please send pics including one with today's date and your username (in handwriting).
  10. Probably not - most of the great photographers I know are mostly keen enthusiast, only know a couple of professionals that make a living from photography. But having an online store footprint and an ABN does allow you to claim your diving and photography equipment on tax, sooo...
  11. If you're going to PM me, please include pics of the strobes for sale and include a handwritten note for today's date, and your username. If possible, I'd like to see a short video of the strobes firing too.
  12. Could be but rather try for Z240s first as I'm clumsy AF and don't like the rounded shape of the Z330 fronts.
  13. Wanted to buy: 2 strobes, preferably same age/usage. Please PM through here with pics. I'm in Australia, with payment by Paypal.
  14. Yeah, given it's all theoretical for me right now (as I don't have my setup yet), I can see that shooting the smaller stuff will be a challenge depending on location / what the subject is etc. However, my last rig for macro had a <4cm working distance and awful focus hunting - if I could get a few ok macro shots with that then my assumption is the 50mm will still be ok for me. Having said that I've moved from a solely macro location to the GBR, so I'm guessing 80% of my dives will be wide. The MC 50mm will probably get more use topside
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