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About DynamicDivers

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Studio City, CA
  • Interests
    Padi OWSI, Photographer, Public Speaker, Martial Artist, Stand Up Comedian

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 5DS
  • Camera Housing
    Ikelite 200FL
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  1. I bit the bullet and purchased two used DS160 strobes from a WetPixel user... They arrive on Monday. I'm VERY excited to start playing with them... Now to figure out what arms and clamps to buy! lol Thanks for the advice and input! Much appreciated!
  2. One good bit of news... the new Ikelite strobe (DS230) will use completely compatible battery packs... so no problem with that aspect at least.
  3. Per Ikelite's site: "Non-Ikelite strobes are not capable of powering or communicating with our TTL electronics. SEA&SEA, INON, and Nikonos strobes support manual exposure only." https://www.ikelite.com/blogs/faq/common-questions-about-strobe-firing-ttl-and-sync-speeds
  4. I'm looking at purchasing used underwater strobes for my system, and I'm curious what the common wisdom is on just how long strobes "live." I've read that the curved bulbs (e.g., Ikelite DS) last twice as long as straight bulbs... But what has your experience been? Am I entering a world of hurt saving 50% up front, only to have to pay for expensive servicing, new bulbs, or even throwing the strobes out? Or does a 7+ year old strobe still have plenty of life in it? Curious what the though is...
  5. I'm curious how much benefit there is to TTL for NON-MACRO shooting. (I just never really got into Macro). I mostly shoot larger sea life and underwater portraiture that is sometimes rapid-fire and fast moving (e.g., kids jumping into pools or people swimming at me). It seems like TTL is most beneficial to Macro, but I can't find much info on whether it's helpful on portraiture... I've been looking seriously at buying Ikelite DS160/161 strobes (I have an Ikelite housing for my Canon 5DS). I'm not afraid of shooting strobes on manual, (I was a 'strobist' back in the day with my dry setup) but I'm thinking of workflow and speed of achieving quality images when I have fast moving subjects, like a splashing toddler, or that harbor seal that just zoomed into frame... So the question is this: will I find that Ikelite TTL is the best thing since sliced bread when I'm shooting portraits and large fast moving sea life/humans? Or will I likely just be resorting to manual anyway? My alternate strobe would be the Inon-Z330 II, which seems to have much more power, better spread, a smaller/lighter and significantly less expensive package... BUT will be losing TTL. Thoughts?
  6. Hey Lori, I've begun getting more into this after years of "dry" photography and wet creature photography while diving... I'm just getting going, but you can see some of my work at www.DenDigital.com Would love to connect and share ideas. -D
  7. Hi! I'm a professional diver (Padi OWSI - www.DynamicDivers.com) and professional photographer (www.DenDigital.com) who is making the obvious step to combine my two loves and get more serious with my underwater photography. I've shot photos on my dives for years using small compact point and shoot cameras and most recently my RX100 MacGuyvered with the strobe from an old Sea Life 1200 setup I bought 13 years ago. I've now jumped over to an Ikelite housing for my Canon 5DS, and am in the process of getting strobes and figuring out how to turn my pool into an underwater studio. Looking forward to receiving and contributing to the collective wisdom on WetPixel! Den
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