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About ashic

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  1. @Barmaglot Looking for something like this. Does it fit in the VPS port, or does it use the strobe cable bulkhead?
  2. Thanks for all the help Managed to put one together and it's firing the strobe (on land at least)!
  3. Would be very interested... well... less so about the cost, but more for the fun (I'm an engineer and love tinkering!). Any starting points for what plugs to get? My strobe and housing both use Sea&Sea connectors, I believe.
  4. I've got a Seafrogs full frame Sony housing that supports fibre optic cables, and a Sea&Sea YS-D3 strobe. I'm looking to get a cable for this set up. I see that Sea&Sea have three lengths - 310mm, 453mm, and 725mm. Any advice on which length to go for? Price is pretty similar for all three.
  5. I see that we need to clean and lubricate the o-rings of our housing and strobes. Do we do this before a dive, or after? Or both? And should we do this every day we dive, or is it a once in a while thing? I've been diving with the seafrogs housing for the A7iii for about three years... Granted, very rarely... And other than just cleaning the main o-ring without taking it out, I haven't really done any maintenance. Should I clean and lubricate more regularly?
  6. Yes, and if I were a pro underwater photographer doing 50+ dives a year, I'd not even ask the question and go directly to Nauticam. I dive rarely - maybe 1-2, possibly 3 times a year, and for me the land photography stuff comes first. So, while I know putting underwater gear first would definitely get me better images, I'm sort of having to spend according to priorities. I've happily spent £740 on the YS-D3 mk-ii strobe, and the improvement that's given is amplitudes above what I was getting without lighting. But then if the next improvement comes at an expense of £1.5K+ overlay, I'd probably spend that on a lens upgrade that I'll be using several hundred times a year.
  7. It's a big extra though: WWL-1B: £1195 Seafrogs 28-60 port: £149 Bayonet adapter: £79 28-60 lens: £449 WWL (would I need this in addition to the WWL-1B?) Total (assuming just WWL-1B): £1872 Seafrogs A1 with 6"/8" port: £702/£719 The latter does then give me a LOT more cropability, and 1/400 shutter.
  8. That makes complete sense except for the fact that I already own an A1 for overwater photography
  9. @ChrisRoss it was a number of fish moving in a little hideout, hence the repeated shots. The composition was the same, but their movement made for interesting shots. I'm getting more and more tempted to get the A1 housing next. Even if Seafrogs, it won't be worse than the seafrogs A7iii housing. At it can deal with flash at 1/400 with the mechanical shutter in full frame. I understand the point about two strobes not being additive. That makes sense.
  10. @ChrisRoss that worked! I got lucky on the first dive as the flash didn't actually fire due to the connector to the bulkhead not set properly (another reason I might get the A1 seafrogs and use fibre optic... The sync connector on the seafrogs is a pain to align). Had the flash fired, at 1/500, half the image would have illuminated destroying all the photographs. The mirror top really helped and I tried out everything to make sure before going in. All I can say is WOW. The strobe makes such a huge difference in terms of colour, vibrance, and everything else. I'll post some photos I took when I'm back in London, and have had time to process the work. With the strobe, the shots look amazing straight out of camera, compared to ones without which will need a lot of editing. Also sort of glad I ended up with the ys-d3. The fast cycle times really helped in certain circumstances. Although, at times I did get trigger happy. The strobe kept up for 10 shots but then "rested" for 90 seconds before replenishing. I'll experiment with the strobe some more on my next trip. But would you say getting another strobe and running at 11 each (instead of one at 22) would give better results? It'll definitely cycle a lot faster. But I expect if not set up properly, the backscatter might be more difficult to manage. Might even try iso 400 and strobe at 11, or even higher ISO. On land, I can comfortably push the A7iii to 6400 ISO with denoising in post.
  11. Wow... That's a mine of information! I'll try out everything you said in tomorrow's dive. Thank you very much!
  12. I've got my first strobe for my A7iii in a lowly seafrogs housing with the Sony 16-35 gm. The strobe is the YSd3 mk 2 (I was looking at the z330, but stock issues meant this the ysd3-2 was the only option prior to my flight). There's no ttl, due to the housing only supporting a sync cord. The strobe is firing, so that part works. I'm looking for some pointers as to what settings I should use. From my understanding, 8 on the strobe roughly means f/8 aperture. Or do I have it completely wrong? I'm looking to (at least in the beginning) have things in sharp focus before experimenting with blur, etc. The A7iii supports fill flash, slow sync, rear sync. I'm mostly shooting at f/8 with a min ss of 1/500s at 16mm, and getting iso values of 100-350, mostly below 250...so happy with that (bright Caribbean waters!). I've been using rear sync. Is this correct? The reefs are quite bright anyway. Would fill be a better option? I wonder if I'm getting away with poor settings because there quite a lot of ambient light. Appreciate any tips or tutorial recommendations.
  13. I've just received delivery of my first strobe, and it says it's for underwater use only (doh!). Is it ok to hook it up and fire a few test shots to make sure the cabling, triggering, strobe levels, etc. all work properly? Can this be done on dry land? Or would that cause damage to the strobe? I can't believe I'm asking this question, but having not used an underwater strobe before, wanted to check.
  14. It sounds like an alignment issue. Do you have a cover on the camera? Are all the rubber inserts in the housing in tact / in place? I've had an issue with the 16-35GM zoom gear where it'd just slip from time to time even if fixed with the top lever thing. I added some tape under two of the rubber pads in the gear and that seems to create enough grip for it not to slip. Similarly, I have some issues with the power lever, and I resolved that by adding a bit of tape on top of the bottom right rubber to elevate the camera slightly, and that solved it for me. Yes, these things shouldn't happen, but the damn thing's been watertight for quite a few dives now, and it's only £500 or so. You get what you pay for I guess, and for the price, it's pretty decent. Just needs a bit of diy to resolve the issues - which I think vary from unit to unit. Once I figured out the problems, I just spent about an hour on land tweaking tape here and there until everything worked. And it did!
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