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About ashic

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  1. @Barmaglot thanks! (At times, it feels like these forums are a private q&a with you!) Would it be something like https://www.uwvisions.com/essentials/flash-triggers/uw-technics-hss-ttl-convertor-for-nauticam-housings/ ? Or are there ones specifically for Seafrogs?
  2. @Barmaglot thanks... that makes sense. I was looking to replace the tray too, as it's a bit tricky to screw in, having caught a bit of rust over four years. Quick question - what would be an additional arm across the top be used for?
  3. I have a Sony A1 in a seafrogs housing and a YS-D3 mk-ii strobe. I use a seafrogs trigger to fire the strobe over a fibre optic connection. That's been working really well. HOWEVER, he seafrogs trigger has a tiny battery, and while rechargeable, if I'm diving 2-3 times a day, it runs out of juice. What doesn't help is that it drains during the time it's on - regardless of whether you're firing or not (of course, it drains faster when shooting). So unless I open up the case and turn the trigger off for surface intervals, it really limits the number of shots. Seafrogs did mention the turtle ttl triggers work with seafrogs cases (when I'd previously asked them about ttl - the seafrogs trigger doesn't support ttl). Reading around, I see that it claims a much higher number of flashes on a single charge. And as an added bonus, I get ttl. I guess one downside is the old school USB-A charging interface. Are there other triggers you'd recommend that (most importantly) can last a lot longer on a single charge, and potentially have TTL?
  4. I've got a lowly seafrogs housing that I've been fairly happy with (paired with the awesome Sony A1 and a YS-D3 mkii strobe). The tray I've been using is fairly basic, and on a recent dive trip, I was really annoyed by the poor quality clamps I've been using until now. They were either too lose meaning the strobe would get dislodged even with mild swimming, or too stiff to the point where one actually cut into a bit of the rubber on the ball of my strobe. I think I do need to upgrade to a better quality tray + arm system that will allow easier loosening / tightening to keep the arms compact when travelling, and move them while underwater while not worrying whether they'll stay in place or not. Since it's a one time purchase, I'm fine with spending a bit more if it's genuinely worth it. Which brand(s) / model(s) would you recommend?
  5. @Barmaglot Looking for something like this. Does it fit in the VPS port, or does it use the strobe cable bulkhead?
  6. Thanks for all the help Managed to put one together and it's firing the strobe (on land at least)!
  7. Would be very interested... well... less so about the cost, but more for the fun (I'm an engineer and love tinkering!). Any starting points for what plugs to get? My strobe and housing both use Sea&Sea connectors, I believe.
  8. I've got a Seafrogs full frame Sony housing that supports fibre optic cables, and a Sea&Sea YS-D3 strobe. I'm looking to get a cable for this set up. I see that Sea&Sea have three lengths - 310mm, 453mm, and 725mm. Any advice on which length to go for? Price is pretty similar for all three.
  9. I see that we need to clean and lubricate the o-rings of our housing and strobes. Do we do this before a dive, or after? Or both? And should we do this every day we dive, or is it a once in a while thing? I've been diving with the seafrogs housing for the A7iii for about three years... Granted, very rarely... And other than just cleaning the main o-ring without taking it out, I haven't really done any maintenance. Should I clean and lubricate more regularly?
  10. Yes, and if I were a pro underwater photographer doing 50+ dives a year, I'd not even ask the question and go directly to Nauticam. I dive rarely - maybe 1-2, possibly 3 times a year, and for me the land photography stuff comes first. So, while I know putting underwater gear first would definitely get me better images, I'm sort of having to spend according to priorities. I've happily spent £740 on the YS-D3 mk-ii strobe, and the improvement that's given is amplitudes above what I was getting without lighting. But then if the next improvement comes at an expense of £1.5K+ overlay, I'd probably spend that on a lens upgrade that I'll be using several hundred times a year.
  11. It's a big extra though: WWL-1B: £1195 Seafrogs 28-60 port: £149 Bayonet adapter: £79 28-60 lens: £449 WWL (would I need this in addition to the WWL-1B?) Total (assuming just WWL-1B): £1872 Seafrogs A1 with 6"/8" port: £702/£719 The latter does then give me a LOT more cropability, and 1/400 shutter.
  12. That makes complete sense except for the fact that I already own an A1 for overwater photography
  13. @ChrisRoss it was a number of fish moving in a little hideout, hence the repeated shots. The composition was the same, but their movement made for interesting shots. I'm getting more and more tempted to get the A1 housing next. Even if Seafrogs, it won't be worse than the seafrogs A7iii housing. At it can deal with flash at 1/400 with the mechanical shutter in full frame. I understand the point about two strobes not being additive. That makes sense.
  14. @ChrisRoss that worked! I got lucky on the first dive as the flash didn't actually fire due to the connector to the bulkhead not set properly (another reason I might get the A1 seafrogs and use fibre optic... The sync connector on the seafrogs is a pain to align). Had the flash fired, at 1/500, half the image would have illuminated destroying all the photographs. The mirror top really helped and I tried out everything to make sure before going in. All I can say is WOW. The strobe makes such a huge difference in terms of colour, vibrance, and everything else. I'll post some photos I took when I'm back in London, and have had time to process the work. With the strobe, the shots look amazing straight out of camera, compared to ones without which will need a lot of editing. Also sort of glad I ended up with the ys-d3. The fast cycle times really helped in certain circumstances. Although, at times I did get trigger happy. The strobe kept up for 10 shots but then "rested" for 90 seconds before replenishing. I'll experiment with the strobe some more on my next trip. But would you say getting another strobe and running at 11 each (instead of one at 22) would give better results? It'll definitely cycle a lot faster. But I expect if not set up properly, the backscatter might be more difficult to manage. Might even try iso 400 and strobe at 11, or even higher ISO. On land, I can comfortably push the A7iii to 6400 ISO with denoising in post.
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