DewaltK

Wow the difference is night and day. AF is quick and locks on with little to no hunting all the way up to f22. Thank you for the tip, I’ll give it try underwater over the weekend.

Thanks, I’ll try it out.

I’ve been testing the Sigma 105 f2.8 and Sony 90 f2.8 with my Sony A7iv and find that both lenses have a hard time to focus when shooting at f14 - f22. It usually in day light with a focus light from my snoot or video light but the camera still struggles. any tips on how to improve auto focus with smaller apertures?

Do you still have this?

Okay this makes sense, I am using a Marelux housing with their manual flash trigger and fiber optic cable to the strobe. all pictures at 1/200 and 1/160 are fine. thanks for the info Chris & Gudge

Thanks, the only options I have is fill in(which is selected), slow sync and rear sync. I found in the sony manual they say 1/250 when using a sony flash. I’ll reach out to some of the underwater camera dealers to see if they have any information on this.

I took my new Sony A7iv on a dive for the first time over the weekend and found that the flash sync speed at 1/250 is inconsistent. I have a many shots where I have a black bar across the top of my picture when the shutter speed is set to 1/250 and then I have a few others with no black bar at 1/250. There is definitely more picture with the black bar at 1/250 than without and pictures at 1/200 are all fine. The camera specs says flash sync is 1/250 and am just wondering why some pictures came out fine and other not. Has anyone else seen this on the Sony A7iv?

I actually just got one last week and used it for the first time yesterday and today. So far I like it and my keep rate is higher than with the retra. Still need to practice with it a bit

I managed to get some shots in today and it seems like this snoot with the Z330 is only good when the subjects are really small. I managed to get some good shots of a couple nudibranch's but anything bigger than about a quarter is a challenge between uneven lighting or not getting enough light on the subject when having the use the smaller slider and pulling the strobe back.

Thanks Oskar, I'll be doing some more testing over the weekend and see what I get. Testing outside of water it seems to be working fine, underwater is always more difficult to get everything aligned for consistent testing.

I've tried the Inon snoot and this FlipSnoot (aquacam.nl) one. The Inon was basically useless, the Flip snoot I actually liked as it focuses the light down the middle and its very light weight since its 3D printed. The snoot just absorbs too much light so I ended up having to set the strobe to full which I did not like. My GF has the backscatter MF-1 with snoot so I am familiar with it, she's on her 3rd one due to the others failing and getting replaced by Backscatter. I may have to look at getting the Retra or maybe the Ikelike strobe which I was hoping would have been avoided by getting the LSD snoot.

Thanks for the reply Tim, The strobe and snoot is on the left side yes. I keep it above my camera facing downward at around 45 degrees over the lens. I've also noticed this half lit circle when I have the snoot facing straight down. I get a nice round circle but one half is significantly brighter than the other half. Perhaps the Inon flash shape might be the issue, I would think that once the light is in the snoot tube the lenses focuses the light evenly.

I recently got the Retra LSD snoot for my Inon Z330 as it came highly recommended by the local underwater photography store. I've been using different strobe and snoot combinations for a while now and I find using the Retra LSD with the Z330 to be very challenging and inconsistent. Initially I had issues where the strobe light does not hit where the focus light is aimed at. After reaching out to Retra and sending them some sample shots they recommended attaching the strobe diffuser which helped the strobe light to be more aligned with the focus light. I am not getting more on target shots but, I am still getting shots where one half of the light beam is much darker than the other half. This seems to happen more when I have the snoot closer to the subject for a sharp circle then when I have the snoot pulled back to light up a larger subject. Has anyone had similar results and have tips on how to over come this? The snoot is aligned with the focus light, I burp it when get in the water, I try and keep it at recommended 175MM distance from the subject.

Hello, I live in South Florida and do a lot of muck diving at Blue Heron Bridge in Riviera Beach. Started on a GoPro and moved to a TG6 and now on a Olympus PEN E-PL 10. I shoot mainly macro with the M.Zuiko 60mm and Inon diopters. Been reading forum topics for a while which has been really useful as I learn and progress with underwater photography.