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-Johan-

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About -Johan-

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    Starfish
  1. I found that using the up/down buttons to change ISO is a bit cumbersome as the right hand needs to move to access the controls. So I assigned a new dial control (under setup / dial customize), My Dial 1, which uses Av/ISO instead of Av/Tv. Then I set up C3 to toggle between the normal operating mode (Av/Tv) and My Dial 1 (Av/ISO). This way I can just use C3 with my left hand once, and change the ISO with the front dial, then shoot. It switches back to Av/Tv automatically after that.
  2. The bluewater one above is great. I also suggest going through Steve Perry's video to understand some of the focusing options. It's only for topside. I bought his guide as well but didn't find it particularly useful.
  3. Buceo is a more expensive than that, including for diving, but is a very well run operation. They have their own spotters. Food is not that great. On the lower range I really enjoy Bauan Diver's Sanctuary, great for 3 days, not 1 week (as it's quite a distance from most sites, meaning there are not many sites around, but those nearby are great). Last time I stayed there I believe it was 6500/pax for accommodation, food and 3 dives (with extra for additional boat dives and dive guides). Food is good, small buffet (not a la carte) but I really liked it. Own spotters. Blue Ribbon is good value for money. Their spotters are good. They outsource boats. Food is not great for vegetarians (though that's the case of most resorts, to be fair). Not a fan of Eagle's Point ($2/day for a weight belt, really? and lots of extra charges) and post-covid it seems quite run down. Arthur's Place was okay, it's been a while since I went there, I liked the garden. Back then they used only a very small bangka so did not venture out very far. I liked the room at Planet Dive. I don't think it was that cheap but can't recall for sure. About 4 years ago the equipment was really old, hopefully they have changed by now. Skip King Salomon dive resort. I've heard Anilao Scuba Dive Center changed staff/owners after covid and is no longer that great. There are not that many places were I would describe the food as good, it's a fairly typical fare in most places. Nothing wrong, but nothing super exciting either. I rotate among Blue Ribbon, Bauan Diver's Sanctuary, and others depending on the group. I have not tried Anilao Photo Academy, Solitude or Crystal Blue. Arthur's Place is probably a good choice on a budget.
  4. Very good point! I purchased the batteries in Feb/March 2017, but they were manufactured in Oct 2015 and Nov 2016. So, by the time my first YS-D2 failed, I think in July 2019, some of the batteries were already almost 4 years old. By the time the 2nd YS-D2 and the YS-D3 failed, in 2021, the batteries would have been 5/6 years old.
  5. I've had several issues with 2 S&S YS-D2 and 1 YS-D3, which all failed. Eventually, in manual mode, they only fired a pre-flash and refused to fire the regular flash. In TTL-mode (which I don't normally use), the strobes only fired a maximum power 32. No in-between. They were completely unusable. I thought the issue with the two YS-D2 was on the account of the many problems reported with them, production issues in China, etc., and considered them as lost. I had dived about 150 dives / 30000 shots with them. The YS-D3 which I replaced them with had only about 30 dives. It was still under warranty and was replaced. The other YS-D3 I have is running fine. In the end, I narrowed these failures down to the fact that I was using Eneloop Pros that were a couple of years old. The first YS-D2 failed before covid, the batteries were still only about 2 years old and then had about only 30 cycles (as I had 2 sets of batteries for each strobe and was doing 2/3 dives with a charged battery) so I did not even think it could be linked with the batteries. Then I could not dive for 2 years due to covid. I had been using the same batteries, and the other YS-D2 and the YS-D3 failed relatively shortly after resuming my dives. I have now replaced the Eneloop Pros with regular Eneloops and my two YS-D3 have been working well, with about 40 dives. I can only do 2 dives with the Eneloops, not 3, but they work fine. I won't be using Eneloop Pros anymore... and if/when they fail, I certainly won't be buying a YS-Dx anymore.
  6. Just to add my +1 to the discussion and confirm what Chris said. I also shoot with the 14mm 1.8, with a Seacam compact port which is 170mm or 6.7 inches. I did not notice any visible vignetting but I use an extension that is optimized for this port+lens combo. Corner sharpness is generally fine, though at close focus it's certainly less sharp. The min aperture of the lens is f/16, so it's not possible to go to 22 for extra sharpness either. The lens is great for wrecks and reefscapes, but to shoot wildlife you need to be extremely close to the subject. I have not tested the not-as-wide-angle options such as 16-35 but they could be better suited to your needs.
  7. Rslb, I've read that you have already purchased the 10-18, but I also just wanted to share my experience with the Rokinon 12mm f/2 on a6000/6300 in case other people find it helpful. I found that the lens worked great for UWA, with a much better image quality than the 16-50 at 16mm (and wider too, of course). Now the lens is manual focus and manual aperture, but for UW it's not a big issue, really, just have to find the right parameters. I typically set it to f/11 and adjusted the ISO/shutter speed instead of the aperture. The focusing distance will depend on the housing and dome. On my previous Ikelite housing for a6000 and 6-inch dome, setting the focusing distance to 27cm was the sweet spot. I had great success using this lens for manta rays or wrecks.
  8. Most of my functions are similar, just assigned differently on the camera, but there's a small change that I found useful. Topside I use the rear wheel to change the ISO, and also have the right button of the wheel set up to access the ISO menu (Rear2 button 4). Works great. But underwater, the housing (seacam) cannot control the rear wheel, and I find that accessing the ISO menu with my right hand and then using the up/down buttons is a bit cumbersome. Not a big deal, but just a bit cumbersome. So what I did was to assign a new dial control (under setup / dial customize), My Dial 1, which, instead of Av/Tv, uses Av/ISO. Then I set up C3 to toggle between the normal operating mode (Av/Tv) and My Dial 1 (Av/ISO). This way I can just use C3 with my left hand and change the iso with the front dial (with the pinky finger of my right hand, without moving the hand from the handle), then shoot.
  9. Hi everyone. I was looking to upgrade my A6300 to an A1 and realized that wetpixel has much more to offer than at first glance - not just for gear, but for other discussions - which is why I joined. I'm in the Philippines so have some great diving nearby.
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