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Posts posted by diggy

  1. 20 hours ago, adamhanlon said:

    Hi @Tony Spence and @diggy

    Can I suggest that we try and keep this forum for introductions please? Replies tend to get "lost" in here, so other who may have the same queries do not get the benefit of the community's responses. There is a ton of information about Olympus TG cameras throughout this community!

    I think you will also find that you get more response to specific enquiries if you post it in the Beginners Forum: https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/forum/29-beginner-forum/

    or the Photography Gear and Technique one: https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/forum/18-photography-gear-and-technique/

    Thank you!




    Makes sense,


    Apologies Adam :-)


    • Like 1

  2. This is a great set up Tony to begin with and gives you far more flexibility in the kind of shots you can get. 

    And the sola would help with macro videos as this camera is a very capable macro shooter.

    The wide angle would also work in some situations, but two strobes with longer arms would help. Even one strobe works but positioning is important. And maybe you may just need a longer arm I feel. 

    To get various kinds on shots with the strobe, such as a dark background, or with lots of contrast or to highlight a subjects hair (like a hairy frogfish) one has to get used to placing the strobes correctly. 

    I would recommend looking for some tutorials online as also reading some books on underwater photography. Ex: Martin Edge's The Underwater Photographer. 

    Good luck with your new system and do share images once you can jump in and get some. If there are any specific questions do post them here.


  3. Hi Tony,

    Thats a very capable camera in the right hands. And with external strobes, arms and added lenses can make some wonderful images. 

    I had and still have and use the TG 4 occasionally. 

    All the best and if your share what kind of accessories, this community will surely give you great input.


  4. 19 hours ago, r4e said:

    Just a comment on your disclaimer: most of the internal (hidden) O-rings of Nauticam housings are grey, not black. E.g. the O-rings of all the push button axles and rotary axles are grey. 

    I have no information of whether the oil you suggest, is compatible or not with any of the O-rings. Although O-rings generally speaking are very strong, I have seen cracked, clipped, torn and softened O-rings as a result of extreme weather, misuse, chemical misuse, and wear/tear.

    OOPS my bad,


    But yes the oil is compatible as I have been using it for over 5 years now.


    thanks for the info and correction 

  5. I have been using a nauticam housing for the 7D for a few years now. Each time after a dive trip it is soaked for close to 48 hours. Post that, heres where it gets interesting, I use a 100% silicone shock oil (something like this http://www.muchmoreracing.net/product_view.php?pidx=959 ) to grease all the buttons from the outside as also from INSIDE. 

    Last year I had a bad leak and lost my camera and 100 mm lens, BUT GUESS WHAT, the salt water due to extensive and regular lubrication, did no damage inside at all. The grease kept the water out. 

    Having learnt my lesson, post that I use a leak sentinel now. 

    Just thought I should share this, as it really helps to keep your housing safe from the inside in case of a leak. 

    Disclaimer: If the o rings (and they are usually not) are not the black ones for the buttons, please refrain from using. 



  6. On 3/3/2021 at 1:53 PM, Greenjuice said:

    They do look like the same fish from the markings around the eyes, but I wasn’t aware that they were taken so many months apart. The behaviour and algae growth on their surfaces can change a lot in that time.


    The description in Fishbase is quite good - thank you ChrisRoss, especially about the warty tubercles and pectoral fins (stargazer’s point backwards a bit more and can have spines on the gill covers).


    The white-ish coloured fish in diggy’s first photo is more likely a scorpionfish actually. I suspect maybe a relatively juvenile S. diabolus, although sometimes called a Devil Stonefish or False Stonefish. You can see the spine on the gill cover in the two photos of the stargazers.

    Yes exactly. I posted that one cause it was closest to what my eyes discerned in the video. The other two stargazers certainly.


    • Thanks 1

  7. 19 hours ago, PiotrPL said:

    I really would like to see some comparisons on similar compositions made one with strobe second with flash. I have very old two flash lights and thinking about upgrade. My video lights 4000 lumen each are to poor to photography.

    Is it possible to use lets say

    - at clean coral reefs
    - 2 x 10000 lumen lights
    - iso 200-800
    - aperture 2.8-5.6
    and get colors and sharp image in few meters distance at 25 deep meters where blue is dominating with APSC or Full Frame camera?

    Old topic but may help.

    • Like 1

  8. 8 hours ago, TmxDiver said:

    Thanks! I've used them for quite a few things, actually.

    Below is a link to what I bought. The hardest part was just trying to figure out what to search for. :)


    I'm not sure what you mean by "What did you stick on it?" The zip tie "anchors" that I bought have stickers "built in" on them so I just put it on the vacuum cover and then tied cave line to it.

    Let me know if you want more info or pictures.

    - brett


    Very helpful, thanks

  9. On 9/27/2020 at 4:47 AM, Laval said:

    I am happy to share my latest video-interview with Max Ammer, the pioneer of diving in Raja Ampat, West Papua in Indonesia. About 30 years ago, Max came to  Raja Ampat in a search of World War II relics.  This is a story about how Max built the very first dive resort in Raja Ampat - Kri Eco Resort, and later - Sorido Bay Resort, about conservation efforts of Max and his partners, training local people and building the very first electrical boat in Raja Ampat. 

    Video is shot with Sony NX80, and a few clips with Sony 7Rii.




    Totally loved watching this. Its one of my favourite destinations and took a group there diving. BUT want to go alone for a few weeks.

    Thanks for sharing this and some amazing work being done there.


    • Like 1

  10. 24 minutes ago, Pomacentridae said:


    I recently got an AO Cooler bag: https://aocoolers.com/24-pack-carbon-cooler-black.html

    I got the black carbon model because it is very water repellent and dries really quickly. I typically just hose it down at the end of the day, then wipe it down dry. Salt seems to just slide off, did not notice any salt build up on the zippers. Used it for about 3 weeks out on fieldwork for my camera system. It worked well on the boat.

    For travel what I did was I bought a camera bag insert: https://fstopgear.com/products/icu/pro-icu-large

    So the cooler serves double duty as my camera bag during travel. I typically arrive at my destination and i can just pull out the camera insert and all my stuff is there. That camera insert stays in the hotel room nice and dry. Then I assemble my camera and just drop it in cooler bag and that serves as my wet bag which i can take onto the boat.

    Hope it helps

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Thanks for this.

  11. 4 hours ago, TimG said:

    Hey guys

    I'm sure like many of us, I've played around with travelling rinse tanks. I've quite often bought a plastic laundry basket on a dive trip and have used that to carry my camera around and then as a rinse tank on a dive boat or at the resort or hotel. I give it away at the end of the trip.

    I keep toying with the idea of a Cinebag Grouper bag: https://www.cinebagsunderwater.com/cb70-square-grouper but then think, way more expensive than a $5 laundry basket and yet another thing to cram into my dive bag.

    But now having moved to a dive island and on boats a lot (yay!), I'm back to toying with the idea of  Cinebag Grouper again.

    I'd welcome thoughts from anyone who uses one - and especially on the zips. I've tried several times to use soft zip-up cool bags but after a couple of trips the zips are trashed and solid with salt. Cinebags describes the YKK zips as being "salt resistant".  I'd be really interested in real life experience. Do they solder hard after a few dives? Or do they remain happily open-able and close-able even after getting a good salt spray?


    Hi Tim,

    I have been using this bag :  https://www.polarbearcoolers.com/product/original-48-pack-soft-cooler/

    since 2012. Yes the zippers tend to get verdigris but every time I am back from a trip I just spray some silicone based spray such as 


    and the bag is still going strong ! 

    Its very large and takes in a Nauticam Housing for a 7D with arms and strobes all well tucked in. Also works well as a rinse tank and protection for your housing/camera.

    One of the image shows the verdigris on the zipper. But all works well.



    image0skunk anemone fish img 5839.jpg

    image1skunk anemone fish img 5839-2.jpg

    image1skunk anemone fish img 5839.jpg

  12. 5 hours ago, bvanant said:

    I agree about the need for lights, but 2 5000 lumen Krakens seem a bit much. If you look at any of these videos on


    they were all shot with a pair of Sola 2000s, mostly on medium power. Yes these are all macro stuff but we have friends that had the high power Keldans and Krakens and find that for blackwater at least they are way  too much light.



    Would you say that this power is also good enough for wide angle videos Bill ? 



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